Topic: arp head studs for 300hp z6 or stock honda good? (Read 35023 times)

highroller54 · « **on:** September 02, 2009, 11:42:58 AM »

are they needed or not? Thanks bitches

Minor Threat · « **Reply #1 on:** September 02, 2009, 11:58:04 AM »

ratcityrex · « **Reply #2 on:** September 02, 2009, 12:15:47 PM »

Cheap insurance though, if it was my car I would run them.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 02, 2009, 12:43:42 PM »

Or helicoil all the threads in the block and then use stock bolts.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #4 on:** September 02, 2009, 12:50:44 PM »

the threads in the block arent an issue till well over 500whp. studs are cheap, i would run them at 300whp

dvst8r · « **Reply #5 on:** September 02, 2009, 01:27:54 PM »

For the ~$100 I would run them.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #6 on:** September 02, 2009, 01:46:42 PM »

These guys have never done me wrong. They ship supper fast, and customer service has always been good.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19618&cat=555&page=

RHD DC2 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 02, 2009, 07:08:05 PM »

def run them.

speedjunky01 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 02, 2009, 07:21:15 PM »

give it a go

greg from go autoworks is running 12's in his stock 100+k d with stock studs ect

mine is holding fine with stock studs at 11 out of an ebay 57 at 240,000

go easy on the timing and you should be ok, but as stated they are good insurance. make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends

AJxr · « **Reply #9 on:** September 02, 2009, 08:09:25 PM »

guy on d-series with a 500+whp running stock bolts... runing 10.00s... on a sohc etc...

but for anything over stock id just get the damn head studs....

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 02, 2009, 09:00:42 PM »

Quote from: speedjunky01 on September 02, 2009, 07:21:15 PM

make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends

Wrong

yamaha6611 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 02, 2009, 09:40:46 PM »

yea use ARP's like said, theyre good insurance. one little overboost and the head is going to lift, especially with those stock bolts. you can still run a stock 25$ headgasket, knowing that the head will stay put with ARP's in there...

speedjunky01 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 02, 2009, 10:46:59 PM »

Quote from: crxvtec91 on September 02, 2009, 09:00:42 PM

Quote from: speedjunky01 on September 02, 2009, 07:21:15 PM
make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends

Wrong

IDK im just listening to Al from arp . . . his email

1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.

Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.

but yeah, its how ill be doing mine on the built motor . . .

give them a call and ask

800.826.3045

turbohf · « **Reply #13 on:** September 02, 2009, 11:54:43 PM »

i hate headstuds...

patsmx5 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 03, 2009, 12:12:17 AM »

Quote from: speedjunky01 on September 02, 2009, 10:46:59 PM

Quote from: crxvtec91 on September 02, 2009, 09:00:42 PM
Quote from: speedjunky01 on September 02, 2009, 07:21:15 PM
make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends

Wrong

IDK im just listening to Al from arp . . . his email

1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.

Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.

but yeah, its how ill be doing mine on the built motor . . .

give them a call and ask

800.826.3045

Friction force when not moving is higher than friction force when moving. So if you tighten them to 50, it's gonna take 65-70 just to break the friction and get it to turn. But you know it's at 50. That's why you don't torque in small steps. If you really cared, you'd torque them all in one step to some low value, and then degree them.

HiProfile · « **Reply #15 on:** September 04, 2009, 01:24:48 PM »

Quote from: turbohf on September 02, 2009, 11:54:43 PM

i hate headstuds...

Best part is removeing the head with them in, and the gasket gets all tangled up.

Block threads, stock bolts, and torque specs aren't the issue - it's the fact that stock bolts are NOT INTENDED FOR REUSE. AFAIK all OEM bolts for b's and d's are torque-to-yeild, meaning throw away after removal. Considering that for 25-50% more you can get ARP's over new OEM's, it's a no-brainer IMO.

And lightningmotorsports is a great place to get them. Fast shipping, usually the best prices, and you can get free shipping if you use the honda-tech code in their comments section. Their new website doesn't accept coupon codes yet, but they discount it afterwards. They can also get you individual arp stuff quickly & cheaply.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 04, 2009, 02:38:15 PM »

If they are torque to yield bolts then yeah you have to replace them. I suggested helicoils as they will distort the surface of the block less when you torque the bolts. Pretty sure yall have an aluminum block on all the hondas.

turbohf · « **Reply #17 on:** September 04, 2009, 03:24:53 PM »

only same D-series are one time use. you can tell by the spiral cut down the legnth of the bolt. B-series can deff be reused. i have used my B18C headbolts several times...

chris · « **Reply #18 on:** September 04, 2009, 05:15:46 PM »

Quote from: turbohf on September 04, 2009, 03:24:53 PM

only same D-series are one time use. you can tell by the spiral cut down the legnth of the bolt. B-series can deff be reused. i have used my B18C headbolts several times...

Yuppers my zc I repped back in college had the head off atleast 5 times and used the same head bolts each time. Never blew a head gasket. head came off for porting and milling since I was doing alot of back to back testing back then when I actually enjoyed the local honda crowds.

chris · « **Reply #19 on:** September 04, 2009, 05:16:42 PM »

Oh and the headbolts from the d series that were spiral that I have seen have been all d15b non vtec motors.

crttaz · « **Reply #20 on:** September 04, 2009, 10:40:23 PM »

The spiral TTY headbolts were not install one OEM motors, but are used during HG replaced mainly on the 88-91 D15's

I am reusing them right now......

shadow · « **Reply #21 on:** September 15, 2009, 12:29:53 AM »

so you can reuse the bseries head bolts? i thought they werent?

turbohf · « **Reply #22 on:** September 15, 2009, 09:17:04 AM »

Quote from: shadow on September 15, 2009, 12:29:53 AM

so you can reuse the bseries head bolts? i thought they werent?

i just torqued mine down for the 4th time...

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #23 on:** September 15, 2009, 09:17:58 PM »

Quote from: yamaha6611 on September 02, 2009, 09:40:46 PM

yea use ARP's like said, theyre good insurance. one little overboost and the head is going to lift, especially with those stock bolts. you can still run a stock 25$ headgasket, knowing that the head will stay put with ARP's in there...

Shut the fuck up, 2baller4u. D-series heads don't lift, at all. It's losers running too much timing causing the bore to flex and break headgasket seal due to borderline detonation and the accompanying pressure spikes.

chris · « **Reply #24 on:** September 15, 2009, 09:42:34 PM »

Quote from: shadow on September 15, 2009, 12:29:53 AM

so you can reuse the bseries head bolts? i thought they werent?

More internet nonsense

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #25 on:** September 15, 2009, 09:48:36 PM »

Stock rod bolts break. Stock Honda rods are weak. You can't run more than 6 psi on a stock D16, and no more than 8 psi on a B-series. D16 don't bolt to 1G Integra transmissions.

Or, that's what people claimed before beacons of industry came and saved us from out ignorance. People like Geoff Ricer from Full-Race, who documented all those gains their parts did over everything else, on what 20/20 hindsight has proven to be an unrealistically high reading dyno.

You guys need to back way the hell off of bullshit that people who've never done it claim, and pay more attention to the people who have done it ESPECIALLY when they have nothing to sell you and therefore no reason to lie.

chris · « **Reply #26 on:** September 16, 2009, 12:49:04 AM »

I sell stock used headbolts so dont trust a word that I say ;D

chris · « **Reply #27 on:** September 16, 2009, 12:54:15 AM »

some other fun internet lies

All Honda use the same bolt pattern for throttle bodies

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #28 on:** September 16, 2009, 12:58:12 AM »

I have a 90-91 Integra TB that won't fit on anything else, and was called out about it during my D16Y5 build. I'm too stupid to determine whether or not one of the bolt holes doesn't line up or not, so I should just STFU.

highroller54 · « **Reply #29 on:** September 16, 2009, 01:19:21 AM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on September 16, 2009, 12:58:12 AM

I have a 90-91 Integra TB that won't fit on anything else, and was called out about it during my D16Y5 build. I'm too stupid to determine whether or not one of the bolt holes doesn't line up or not, so I should just STFU.

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Author Topic: arp head studs for 300hp z6 or stock honda good? (Read 35023 times)

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