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[B16Drag]

Haven't been here for a while so forgive me if this has been cover...

There have been several threads about using solenoids/purge valves on how to manage different levels of boost.  Some of them were too complex for my liking involving multiple solenoids/purge valves and switches.  And I'm too cheap to go Neptune, ecTune or Hondata right now...

I'm currently using a Tial wastegate and have one of the cheapo ebay manual boost controller.  Below is a diagram of how I planned to hook it up using a 3-way valve from Grainger ( http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1612667260 ).  

My question, do you guys know if the solenoid is one of those all or nothing valve or does it have variable amount of open/close like the hondata solenoid?  I would prefer an all or nothing one obviously...

In the diagram, when the switch is OFF the flow, the turbo would boost off the wastegate (boosting at whatever level its set at), but when the switch is ON, ideally it should boost to the level of the boost controller...

Let me know your thoughts...

[ryan89crx]

With the setup you described, this is how I would route it

[B16Drag]

Would the boost be more steady and less boost creep they way you have it set up?

Also which solenoid did you use?

[hotrex]

http://www.brokenoff.com/anus1e.jpg

[kgx]

never hook a MBC up to your penis like that. you're just asking for a trip to the ER.



if you need a solenoid that can be modulated via pulse width, GM EVAP solenoids are PWM capable. delphi has a chart that plots flow vs. duty cycle, and they're on almost every GM car made in the last 15 years.

[ryan89crx]

$25
http://airinc.thomasnet.com/Item?cid=1141&plpver=1001&prodid=3001111&itemid=13807&assetid=spec

[B16Drag]

Herpes-rex just pissed he never got my turbo when he was the shipping baron... lil fucker.

[92CXyD]

$25
http://airinc.thomasnet.com/Item?cid=1141&plpver=1001&prodid=3001111&itemid=13807&assetid=spec

Awesome I bookmarked that link.

BTW for my s/c bypass valve since it has an electronic 6-wire toyota (fail) valve, I was thinking of using the lever and vacuum actuator from a h23 intake manifold (IAB) and a one of those purge valves to make sure the valve only opens up when the tb is below ~40% open with the use use of the full throttle switch used to activate the clutch on my S/C.
Since I already have all this stuff in my garage I figured what the hell low budget is the way to go. :yes:

Then using an Apexi ebc valve similar to the one posted in the above link for my Holset that I'm putting in to this whole twincharge setup. I'm using the Apexi valve because I got it for free. ;D

[ryan89crx]

$25
http://airinc.thomasnet.com/Item?cid=1141&plpver=1001&prodid=3001111&itemid=13807&assetid=spec

Awesome I bookmarked that link.

BTW for my s/c bypass valve since it has an electronic 6-wire toyota (fail) valve, I was thinking of using the lever and vacuum actuator from a h23 intake manifold (IAB) and a one of those purge valves to make sure the valve only opens up when the tb is below ~40% open with the use use of the full throttle switch used to activate the clutch on my S/C.
Since I already have all this stuff in my garage I figured what the hell low budget is the way to go. :yes:

Then using an Apexi ebc valve similar to the one posted in the above link for my Holset that I'm putting in to this whole twincharge setup. I'm using the Apexi valve because I got it for free. ;D

you're gonna have to let me know how you routed your bypass, ive been looking into a SC project and it seems like home made supercharging info is hard to come by

[92CXyD]

The bypass route on a SC14 is easy they aready have a great setup on it.



I pulled this pict. off ebay.  BTW up on ebay $200usd just type in previa supercharger.

Look at the black plastic top of the valve on the far left. That is what I'm replacing with h23 IAB activation parts.

To use this s/c for a honda (CCW rotating motor) I swapped the s/c manifolds around and cut off the chamber that routes around the back.

Then I take the TB off and put one of the those spectra maf adapters in its place and ran a set of 3" pipe bends to a large cone air filter.

I'll post picts of my bypass activation (still working on it) and other stuff in my build thread as soon as I fix my valve-train noise issue.
I have to borrow my work camera since some crack head stole my camera and radar detector out of my car a month ago.