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[HiProfile]

Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.

[PhilStubbs]

Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.

after all of the shit i have been through lately with hydro clutchs, i would say its worth it to make a bracket to use rear calipers on the rear wheels.

i have just spent a week messing with a pull type slave cylinder so i can use this cable LS tranny in my eg coupe. turns out that the stock master cylinder is way too small to move it any substantial amount. i ended up getting the innovative kit that mounts the stock slave cylinder under the clutch arm and comes with a heim joint to bolt to the arm about halfway down. problem solved and cheaper than the pull slave i bought.

[Joseph Davis]

Everytime you update this thread I have an after sex cigarette.

 

[malichite]

Might have been mentioned already, don't remember, but do you plan to wall off the rear engine from the rest of the car? 

Yes.  I plan on walling it off for and above so I can still see out the rear window.  Either that or a firewall engine height with a plexi shield to the ceiling above that so I can still oggle at it :p

Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.

Not sure yet.  Probably run fronts in on the rear as well as the front.  Thinking I will use a larger master cylinder probably a willwood with a willwood adjustable prop valve.  I'm also thinking about getting a line lock for at least the fronts if not two one for front and back.  I'll then be using one of these parking valves for the parking brake sense there will be no cables in the rear.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php

[92CXyD]

Might have been mentioned already, don't remember, but do you plan to wall off the rear engine from the rest of the car? 

Yes.  I plan on walling it off for and above so I can still see out the rear window.  Either that or a firewall engine height with a plexi shield to the ceiling above that so I can still oggle at it :p

Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.

Not sure yet.  Probably run fronts in on the rear as well as the front.  Thinking I will use a larger master cylinder probably a willwood with a willwood adjustable prop valve.  I'm also thinking about getting a line lock for at least the fronts if not two one for front and back.  I'll then be using one of these parking valves for the parking brake sense there will be no cables in the rear.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php

In for tech on installing and using the above valve. ;D

[t_cel_t]

looks pricey, i think the rhmt way is  jamming a stick through your rim and rolling forward till it wedges against the body

[Joseph Davis]

Looks like a normal high pressure valve that sells for a lot less.

[malichite]

any links?

[PhilStubbs]

Looks like a normal high pressure valve that sells for a lot less.

its just like a line lock. you stomp the brakes and flip the lever. it holds the pressure when you take your feet off the pedal. i dont know where you could get one thats not that or a line lock

[92CXyD]

will this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Biondo-Racing-LL-Line-Lock-1-8-in-NPT-Inlet-Outlet_W0QQitemZ330381437781QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cec44ab55

[Joseph Davis]

Yes, but it'll only lock one wheel unless you totally re-do the brake proportioning orientation.  Stock it's FR<-->RL and FL<-->RR, you'd have to set it to Front-Rear.  Which, combined with a adjustable proportioning valve, might not be a bad idea.

[92CXyD]

or run it of the brake master line for the back right?

[onlyflash944]

or run it of the brake master line for the back right?

ehh, not really.  i do believe jd is referring to how stock ef hondas are different than most cars.  each line from the master cyl doesn't go to just the front or the rear.   

this car has to be different as far as plumbing goes.  it all depends on how he is going to plumb the rear (another set of front) brakes.  one main line to the rear split to each side, he could use one but there will have to be something creative used in place of the stock prop valve that divides flow funkily.  an aftermarket prop valve and a linelock in the appropriate place would work.  as far as using it as a parking brake, i don't know if line locks requrie voltage to keep the pressure isolated.  it might not work once you kiill the key (i've never personally used one but seen them plenty at the strip)

[Joseph Davis]

Actually, most modern cars have the diagonal setup a Honda does.  That way if you experience a hydraulic brake failure you will DEFINITELY retain at least one front brake... otherwise with an old school front-rear setup you have a 50% chance of losing the front brakes, which is where most of your braking takes place, and that is bad mkay.

[onlyflash944]

most of my brake experience has been replacing rusted as hell lines on '80 and older models where a fix is cutting the head of a nail and using just the fitting to plug off the line so you can still move the vehicle.  once drove an 86 nissan pickup with only the right front brake line working so i could get it to my house to fix.  therefore, heed the grand wizzard's advice.

[onlyflash944]

also, i was just thinking about how the air brakes worked on my dad's old oil delivery trucks, as well as with the busses that i drive now.  they apply the parking break which is air operated and it keeps pressure even with the vehicle turned off.  if they make a mechanical style line lock for hydraulics, then i'd say that would work fine for a parking brake.  again i don't know how the electric style work, so that might work fine too


someone enlighten me, as i don't have time right now to search the difference

[Joseph Davis]

It occurs to me that a Honda-style diagonal brake system would work fine.  Nothing carved in stone that you have to have the rear brakes locked - old school Saab had front parking brakes until the mid-80s (maybe later).  Just splice in between master cylinder and the prop valve with your line lock (is an electrically operated brake solenoid a good idea?) or manual valve and let it lock one front and one rear wheel.  The vehicle isn't going anywhere.

[onlyflash944]

It occurs to me that a Honda-style diagonal brake system would work fine.  Nothing carved in stone that you have to have the rear brakes locked - old school Saab had front parking brakes until the mid-80s (maybe later).  Just splice in between master cylinder and the prop valve with your line lock (is an electrically operated brake solenoid a good idea?) or manual valve and let it lock one front and one rear wheel.  The vehicle isn't going anywhere.

i assumed that the parking brake would double as a burn out assist, front or rear, hence my confusion on what he would do for plumbing.  however, with the above setup, and open diffs in each transmission, you could possibly do a two wheel burn out, one in the front and one in the rear, on opposite sides.

interesting

[malichite]

My thought was to redo the plumbing front and rear, then have a line lock for fronts and a line lock for rears, for burnouts.  Then have the high pressure valve for a parking brake that would be manual and not electric.  However that may not be necessary.  Two trannies in gear will probably hold it in place just dandy

[92CXyD]

My thought was to redo the plumbing front and rear, then have a line lock for fronts and a line lock for rears, for burnouts.  Then have the high pressure valve for a parking brake that would be manual and not electric.  However that may not be necessary.  Two trannies in gear will probably hold it in place just dandy

Yeah reminds me of SCC vid on Hyundai with a turbo 1.5l in frt and turbo 1.5l in the rr doing the gross display on of hp.
Put the frt tranny in revs. rear tranny in drive and watch him destroy the tires in 15sec.

Trying to find the vid. it was the first SCC.

[Ntrain2k]

Was two 4g63T's IIRC.

I don't know how in depth you want to go for a parking brake setup, but Dodge Daytonas with rear disks have a small drum brake in the center of them for a parking break. Cable operated. Might be able to redrill rotors and fab something up to use the drum setup for it.

[malichite]

frankly, at this point I am more worried about getting both engines in and getting it to go down the road first.  Then I will worry about stopping :p

[TheMadScientist]

frankly, at this point I am more worried about getting both engines in and getting it to go down the road first.  Then I will worry about stopping :p

:yes:

[PhilStubbs]

driving is optional, stopping is mandatory. weather its intentional or not.

[turbohf]

My thought was to redo the plumbing front and rear, then have a line lock for fronts and a line lock for rears, for burnouts.  Then have the high pressure valve for a parking brake that would be manual and not electric.  However that may not be necessary.  Two trannies in gear will probably hold it in place just dandy

Yeah reminds me of SCC vid on Hyundai with a turbo 1.5l in frt and turbo 1.5l in the rr doing the gross display on of hp.
Put the frt tranny in revs. rear tranny in drive and watch him destroy the tires in 15sec.

Trying to find the vid. it was the first SCC.

i posted it like on the first page...

Twin Engine Tiburon RD

[clwtwizted]

So what are you doing as far as engine management? A separate Ecu and harness all fed off the main relay? 2 seperate sets of gauges. and what are you doing as far as cooling. Sorry for all the questions, I just wanted to know.

[HiProfile]

Block filler and 2 minute driving spurts. ;D

Management would be easy, since the ecu's don't need to interface with much else. 2 boost/oil gauges would probably be the best idea at minimum.

[Ravage70]

Boost, oil, coolant.  Speedo and tach off one engine.

Extra check engine light

[Eggylshatch]

secondary engine should have on/off button.  for pwning newbs, and alternatively for saving gas mileage.

[ratcityrex]

secondary engine should have on/off button.  for pwning newbs, and alternatively for saving gas mileage.

Im pretty sure it would not do as good on mpg with one off, due to the fact that the linkages on the two are synced. So that means one would just be compressioning around when its off, so you would have the drag of that trans/motor combo on the one running.