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[CO_CReX]

I know this is probably the wrong forum but there isn't a better one I can think becasue this is hybrid ish.

Alright guys I need to do something about my brakes on my hatch... They suck lol.  But I want to go the cheapest route because im poor, so that would be OEM from the junkyard.
I am currently running my OEM Civic CX (small brakes) with drum rears. I KNOW I KNOW, thats why I am trying to upgrade.

Please help me out!  I need to know the best junkyard setup I can run from OEM honda/acuras :thumbsup:

Please include what year and model of everything I should run.

I know I need to pick up a rear disc conversion and a 40/40 prop valve, but what master cylinder, prop valve, front hub, calipers etc are the best to run!

I heard something about Acura Legend calipers... ??

HELP RHMT!! 









Thanks guys! :thumbsup:

[Cooljnateman]

3 post no porn fail setup GTFO

[Teg2boo]

Usually, teg brakes are the way to go

[Zeniceguycrx]

no need

replace all brake fluid
clean and free up calipers
replace pads with hawk hp plus


I ran that on my race car befor switching to the hawk blue
you need nothing more for the street or ocational track day


you will see a huge diff

[Cooljnateman]

cut a whole in your floor and buy some Timb boots make sure u buy steel toe just incase u hit a bump when clamping down on the pavement

[fysh]

Serious question, what's wrong with drums?  The only real advantages of disc over drum is heat dissipation and resistance to fade.  Considering your fronts do 70% of braking force, then heat isn't a huge issue for the rears. Also, drums actually provide more stopping power for the force applied to the brake pedal than discs. Rear disc also have less surface area for the parking brake, so if you need to get slicks warmed up then drum parking brake would hold better. Rear discs are more aesthetic than anything.

As for the fronts, increase surface area by swicthing to a larger diameter Rotor, upgrade to a pad with a better performance friction coefficient, or increase the piston size/number in the calipers for a more equal clamping force.
Acura legend is a caliper upgrade and I believe the run larger rotors. Not sure on the specifics.

[snm95ls]

drums are more effective in terms of long term heat and load abuse, look at semis.  sure those drums warp to fuck and back, but they do an amazing job stopping 30 tons PLUS of load

 

Drums are great at holding large loads, but that does not infer that they are the best for stopping power.

ADB Side-by-Side Comparison

[HiProfile]

Drums are great at holding large loads, but that does not infer that they are the best for stopping power.

Since when are truckers concerned about stopping for bambie, or barbie who just cut him off? There is a reason 99.98% of semi tires are retreaded. For the record, discs require a lower initial pressure to activate, but higher rising rate for linear stopping power increase. Drums are the exact opposite, which is one reason why discs are prefered for ABS. It's also the only real reason the prop valve is different, it allows the rears more initial pressure until they engage.



The best upgrade for the civic is not rear discs. First you upgrade to GSR/LS/EX hubs+calipers, 10.3" rotors, and 7/8" Master cylinder and brake booster. That's far more effective than rear discs. Some people will say pads is all you need with CX rotors - they may also tell you that D15 just needs a header to open it up...

If you want to get "serious", you get ITR/Prelude VTEC/Accord Wagon calipers for the front with 23T brackets. Mill the mounting spots ~1/8" (IIRC I did 0.128"), get some 10.3" rotors or redrilled 11.1" if you use GSR/LS/EX hubs, and slap them on. Add at LEAST a 7/8" MC+BB, ideally a 15/16" or 1" teg version. 14" rim minimum for the 10.3" and 15" rims for the 11.1" combo.

With some decent pads, it will be linear as hell, have much higher fade resistance, but still rip your teeth out if you have a moose jump out in front of you. And I'm not saying that like "oh my unsprung 3-puck xtreme duty PP clutch is easy to daily drive", I mean my grandma could jump in the car and stop well enough in the rain for a deer as she would for a stop sign.

[snm95ls]

I never said that truckers were concerned about that.  Honestly, most hate 4 wheelers.

I can't say that I fully agree with your reasoning behind Discs being preferred for ABS.  It would seem that the faster response time of disk versus drum would be the main reason.


Tires are the most important part of a braking system.  You can have the most linear, fade resistant, and powerful setup on the planet, but if your braking torque exceeds the traction offered by the tires, then you are in a worse position than before.

With that said, stock CX/DX/etc. brakes are fucking horrid and, IMO, inadequate with any decent performance street tire.

I thoroughly agree with your suggestion for front brake upgrades.  I have the 11.1 setup on my CRX, and it is pretty awesome, but it WILL over power the tires pretty easily.  The biggest change that I noticed when I did the setup several years ago was how easy it is to modulate.  That is worth a lot to me.

[stealthiskey]

If you can find a 95 civic ex with ABS, they have basically the same brakes as an ls teg, (15/16 master, larger booster, and teg sized rotors and calipers) but may be an easier swap.

[crttaz]

If you can find a 95 civic ex with ABS, they have basically the same brakes as an ls teg, (15/16 master, larger booster, and teg sized rotors and calipers) but may be an easier swap.

they use smaller pads than the teg setup.

There is never a need for more that 262mm/10.3" brakes, just pad selection.

My CRX has a rear lockup issues that will be cured with better from pads.

89 CRX HF, 1800 lbs
CRX SI fronts/Teg rears with Teg PV, give the rear bias.
Raybestos pads front and rear, going to HPS in the front
Prelude 1" MC, the whole system is like stepping on a ROCK!!!!!

With Koni's all around the nose doesn't dive under braking, you just feel the braking G's.

[Zeniceguycrx]

try real pads first

no autopro bullshit.

buy a performence pad and you will see a better result the the da upgrade


Iv driven both setups in similar cars on the same day on the same track

[SloS13]

no need

replace all brake fluid
clean and free up calipers
replace pads with hawk hp plus

listen to this nog and be pleasantly surprised and save some $$.  My hawk HP+ wore down and I got some Axxis Ultimates.  They're good too and both of those beat the piss out of anything you can get at autozone, etc.