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[theidealone]

Does anybody have experience with these?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Jegster/Jegster-Honda-Roll-Cage-Kits/758645/10002/-1

[turbob16hatch]

JUNK.... get a custom cage or you will be kicking your self the whole time when nothing fits.

[brine04]

Haven't used a jegs kit but have used a couple of the competition engineering cages. They are pretty tough to beat for $250 and a case of beer for Dvst8r to weld in.

[dvst8r]

I have built Jegs cages, comp cages, S&W cages, and an Art Morrison, as well as a couple of custom hand bent with a JD2 bender. The higher price kits, do fit a little better right off, but I have never had one that didn't fit at all.

None of the pre-bent ones are perfect, but for the price you can't go wrong. I will be using a Jeg's one with the 4 link rear kit, and possibly the front strut kit, in my upcoming project vehicle. If you have a competent welder / fitter they are safe, they pass tech, and they let you spend money else where. Like anything, you get out what you put in. Spend the time fitting, and tweaking it and it will fit well, if you try to just throw it in... You get the idea.

[dvst8r]

Not a Jeg's, but easy to find to link too, I find the Jeg's and the Comp eng's are very similar in fit. 90dx and I through it in the car in about a day.

http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2654.0

[theidealone]

^Thanks. Thats what I kinda expected to hear. As far as "tweaking", what do you mean? Bending, or just excessive cutting and notching?

Would you recommend S&W or Jegs, considering they look to be identical in price?

[theidealone]

Wish I lived closer.

(Did that Comp come with swing out brackets?)

[dvst8r]

^Thanks. Thats what I kinda expected to hear. As far as "tweaking", what do you mean? Bending, or just excessive cutting and notching?

Would you recommend S&W or Jegs, considering they look to be identical in price?

I have only done one S&W cage and the bends were closer to being and exact fit in the one I put together. You can see in the B pillar on 90dx's cage the bends don't quite match the hips of the car. All of these cages you need to cut and notch.

S&W are more expensive to get in Canada...  , Which ever one you can get the cheapest, is the one I would go with.

Art Morrison was the other cage I have done, it was probably the best fit, but it was the only one I have done on a truck, so it is hard to compare. 

[dvst8r]

Wish I lived closer.

(Did that Comp come with swing out brackets?)

No, 90dx bought those extra. Makes a big difference for a street car, well worth the money.

[theidealone]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition-Engineering/247/9401A/10002/-1#

Says you need to order the rest of the kit as well, but this is only 11 bucks to ship to me. So 65 bucks total, maybe some plates, and buy my own straight dom, and Im good to go.

[d112crzy]

$53 for a roll cage

[92CXyD]

$53 for a roll cage

Thats just the main hope then you buy 6pt, 8pt or 10pt kit for exra.

[d112crzy]

ok. That makes more sense.

[brine04]

$53 for a roll cage

Thats just the main hope then you buy 6pt, 8pt or 10pt kit for exra.

+1

Some of the tubes come pre-notched but some you need to notch yourself.

[jarebear667]

i have on in my honda. it took about 6 hours you just have to make it fit how you want it. the main hoop was too wide and we took a strap and put it around the bottom and put the plates in and adjust the width of the hoop with the strap and weld it in. it might be too tall too. and then build from there.

[theidealone]

$53 for a roll cage

Thats just the main hope then you buy 6pt, 8pt or 10pt kit for exra.

Yep.

 If I buy the Jegs kit for 170, I have to pay 130 to ship it, it cost me 300.

If I buy this hoop for 54, I think they sell 1 3/4 tubing, 60" long x2 for 30, get two of those, and I think I found the plates, a set of 12, for like 60 bucks. So thats a total of like 175, plus 11 for handling charge, and somehow shipping is free. So I would be paying less than 200. Just have to use a chop saw and a drill press, and make my own support legs. I would say its worth it.

[N1 Andy]

Art Morrison, they are great, the fitment is great, price is great and the guys are cool as fuck.
artmorrison.com

heres a pic of my A/M 6pt, I bought a couple extra sticks to do a solid rear strut bar, x in back, and diagonal bar through the harness bar, I'm into material about $300, but I'm local so I didn't have to pay shipping which would have sucked on all that material.

added some gussets

heres a link to the home made dimple die tool I made and used for the gussets
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2553430

[Joseph Davis]

You linked to HT?  Ban yourself.

[88dx]

You linked to HT?  Ban yourself.

+1

[ochoa]

looks a little ricey to me...proof it's fast enough to need a cage

[dvst8r]

Looks like a road race style cage, not a drag style cage.

[jarebear667]

you got a blue dash too?

[N1 Andy]

Looks like a road race style cage, not a drag style cage.

why? because it has a few gussets? drag cars have gussets some times too.

Actually that IS what I was trying to accomplish with it anyways so thanks.  really the only difference between SCCA and NHRA is door bars and the 2 bars from the harness bar to the exhaust tunnel.  SCCA requires an X in the door bars, which I don't have so I don't see how it looks like a road race cage.

looks a little ricey to me...proof it's fast enough to need a cage

You are an idiot.  I put the cage in it when it had a high c/r n/a setup, no it was NOT fast, I put the cage in to add rigidity to the car, because I liked corners, NOT straight lines.  If you are asking if its fast enough to NEED a cage according to NHRA, the answer is NO.  Did I think it was fast enough in corners to need a cage? YES.

And your red painted d16a6 valve cover ISN'T ricey? gtfo

[dvst8r]

Looks like a road race style cage, not a drag style cage.

why? because it has a few gussets? drag cars have gussets some times too.

Actually that IS what I was trying to accomplish with it anyways so thanks.  really the only difference between SCCA and NHRA is door bars and the 2 bars from the harness bar to the exhaust tunnel.  SCCA requires an X in the door bars, which I don't have so I don't see how it looks like a road race cage.

The X on the rear bars, the gussets, the diagonal bar on the main hoop, the lack of V bars, and lack of a spreader bar on the main hoop, the additional strut brace bar. ect...

Yes it is missing X bars on the doors, but it is still far closer to a road race spec unit then a drag spec unit. As far as NHRA / IHRA is concerned it is no more then a well braced roll bar. Good for 10.00 sec or slower, or less then 135mph.

[jarebear667]

looks a little ricey to me...proof it's fast enough to need a cage

You are an idiot.  I put the cage in it when it had a high c/r n/a setup, no it was NOT fast, I put the cage in to add rigidity to the car, because I liked corners, NOT straight lines.  If you are asking if its fast enough to NEED a cage according to NHRA, the answer is NO.  Did I think it was fast enough in corners to need a cage? YES.

And your red painted d16a6 valve cover ISN'T ricey? gtfo
[/quote]

N/A sucks,  go back to honda-tech, and your making fun of a powdercoated valve cover, yet you have a blue cage. and yellow car. thats NOT boosted.

[ochoa]

cars can look like yours when they go fast .... but with that heavy ass junglegym in ur back seat that with that hidious color that prolly matches your bodykit ,N/A pecie of shit goes fast enough to worry about rollin then you can make fun of my powdercoated VC. Ne ways i got something much nicer that that dosn't look like it got fucked in the ass by bozo the clown

[malichite]

Go role that fucker over and tell me how those shit ass welds hold up

[ochoa]

I would say its fashion over function, but its just gross nothing styleish there, 

[turbob16hatch]

Go role that fucker over and tell me how those shit ass welds hold up

It always amazes me when i see some shit ass welding on a cage. Does no one value there life?

[ochoa]

would suck if that hoop smack down on ur ass like a mouse trap huh