Topic: Aluminum welding questions? (Read 16111 times)

turbob16hatch · « **on:** December 31, 2009, 02:09:59 AM »

Ok well i have limited experience with tig welding aluminum. I have made a few things and a catch can and thats about it.

Well here are the welds on my srt4 intecooler core i made new endtanks for to fit my 91 civic. I feel as if i have the corner joints down ok, i need some work starting out to get the weld width consistent. I was using around 150-170 amps when welding these joints and 3/32 rod. material is 1/8.

here are the corner joints.

Now i have an issue with the t-joints, the bead spacing looks consistent, there closely spaced which i don't know if that is good or bad. The thing that concerns we is the surface finish of the welds, unlike the corner joints which are smooth these are really rough. Like sand paper. I was set at 150amps and was welding with 3/32 rod. material is 1/8 and tube is 1/16.

what am i missing here, and doing wrong?

Any help that would fix this would be great , thanks guys

88dx · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2009, 02:12:27 AM »

Id go buy a lotto ticket if my welds looked that good :yes:

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2009, 02:15:46 AM »

Quote from: 88dx on December 31, 2009, 02:12:27 AM

Id go buy a lotto ticket if my welds looked that good :yes:

Yeah, that's really fucking nice for being low on experience. Not to detract from getting constructive criticism or anything.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2009, 02:31:45 AM »

eh, it's usable that for sure. But i would feel liek an asshole if i sold stuff with those welds. They just arn't what i consider up to par with what i feel is exceptable.

BenDover · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2009, 02:37:25 AM »

I spy speedglas

Corey · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2009, 06:22:28 AM »

its the material. i have some sheet aluminum that i cut up and built some catch cans out of and it welded the same. if you got some nice clean thick alu it would weld much nicer.

weirtech · « **Reply #6 on:** December 31, 2009, 11:32:33 AM »

lower your standards matt.

what is the base metal and what filler are you using? i like to use 5356 for all aluminum. i find it is more consistent going from one grade to another.

Passenger · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2009, 01:03:59 PM »

No, don't lower your standards. Here is what you need to do:

Lower your balance, that is what is responsible for the excessive etching etching along the sides of your welds.
Do you have any freq control?
The weld for the tab on the tank is really cold, you need more heat.
The difference between your corner welds and your t joint tube weld is that your balance is too high, which creates a really wide shallow penetrating weld. In order to achieve the big fat stacked dime look you want to match your corner welds you would have to use about 4 times as much filler as the corner welds. Its not the material at all.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2009, 01:32:39 PM »

Quote from: Passenger on December 31, 2009, 01:03:59 PM

No, don't lower your standards. Here is what you need to do:

Lower your balance, that is what is responsible for the excessive etching etching along the sides of your welds.
Do you have any freq control?
The weld for the tab on the tank is really cold, you need more heat.
The difference between your corner welds and your t joint tube weld is that your balance is too high, which creates a really wide shallow penetrating weld. In order to achieve the big fat stacked dime look you want to match your corner welds you would have to use about 4 times as much filler as the corner welds. Its not the material at all.

I have a syncrowave 200, i'm pretty sure it doesn't have high freq control.

I was using the standard setting of 7 what do you think i should have my balance set at?

How do my corner joints look as far as weld profile, all that?

Am i doing the t-joint properly? do i just need to use more filler and let it soak in more(penitration) between dabs?

Thanks for the responses.

Oh i don't know the material, but it is 5356 rod 99% sure.

Also what are your guys' thoughts on rod size? am i doing that right?

Passenger · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2009, 02:37:36 PM »

Quote from: turbob16hatch on December 31, 2009, 01:32:39 PM

Quote from: Passenger on December 31, 2009, 01:03:59 PM
No, don't lower your standards. Here is what you need to do:

Lower your balance, that is what is responsible for the excessive etching etching along the sides of your welds.
Do you have any freq control?
The weld for the tab on the tank is really cold, you need more heat.
The difference between your corner welds and your t joint tube weld is that your balance is too high, which creates a really wide shallow penetrating weld. In order to achieve the big fat stacked dime look you want to match your corner welds you would have to use about 4 times as much filler as the corner welds. Its not the material at all.
I have a syncrowave 200, i'm pretty sure it doesn't have high freq control.
I was using the standard setting of 7 what do you think i should have my balance set at?
How do my corner joints look as far as weld profile, all that?
Am i doing the t-joint properly? do i just need to use more filler and let it soak in more(penitration) between dabs?
Thanks for the responses.
Oh i don't know the material, but it is 5356 rod 99% sure.
Also what are your guys' thoughts on rod size? am i doing that right?

No the syncrowave 200 doesn't have adjustable frequency from what I remember.
Setting 7 doesn't mean shit to me, does the manual state where the "true" balanced wave form is on your dial? My guess is somewhere 3-5. Unless I am welding broken transmission cases or something really dirty I always try to stay well under balanced (more electrode negative) which will give you a more focused arc, better penetration etc. probably around setting 1-3 on your machine. If you can get me some more info I can offer some more help.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2009, 02:45:14 PM »

ok i will look at the manual when i get some time and get back to you.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #11 on:** December 31, 2009, 05:21:14 PM »

looks badass to me.

partial threadjack, i have heard it is possible to weld aluminum with a dc tig welder using helium. is this true? im not looking to make money welding aluminum, just stick a few things together for myself.

Passenger · « **Reply #12 on:** December 31, 2009, 06:59:14 PM »

Quote from: SecksyPeePee on December 31, 2009, 05:21:14 PM

looks badass to me.

partial threadjack, i have heard it is possible to weld aluminum with a dc tig welder using helium. is this true? im not looking to make money welding aluminum, just stick a few things together for myself.

Absolutely, you just run dcep instead of dcen like you would on steel.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #13 on:** December 31, 2009, 07:10:23 PM »

hmmm...... i dont think i can change the polarity on my welder. maybe i will look inside to see if i can swap the cables. might be too much of a pain in the ass to be worth it though

Passenger · « **Reply #14 on:** December 31, 2009, 07:37:54 PM »

You just swap the ground and torch on the front of your machine.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #15 on:** December 31, 2009, 08:30:28 PM »

mine arent interchangeable.

my ground clamp uses this

and the torch uses a nut that flows thew power and gas through it like this

Ntrain2k · « **Reply #16 on:** December 31, 2009, 08:40:34 PM »

I bet the wire connections on the inside are swappable.

Passenger · « **Reply #17 on:** December 31, 2009, 10:13:59 PM »

Pull the rubber boots off, there is a set screw inside holding the wire in place, swap wires and go to town.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #18 on:** January 01, 2010, 01:02:02 AM »

China TIG.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #19 on:** January 01, 2010, 02:06:29 AM »

Zing!!!!!

you are correct sir.

i did find an adaptor while looking for pics to put in this massive threadjack

slappynuts · « **Reply #20 on:** January 01, 2010, 03:48:53 PM »

Thats not that bad at all. Just keep playing with it you will get it. Nice shiny welds come with the feel. Its like riding a bike. Once you get the feel for it it doesnt matter what kind of bike it is .I have people playing with the machine here all the time and half the time unless they really mess something up I just weld away ;D

mandrel-bends · « **Reply #21 on:** January 01, 2010, 04:52:55 PM »

Just reduce your balance until it narrows in on your weld. Try a setting of 5 or 6. 5 should be nominal balance.

Quote from: Passenger on December 31, 2009, 02:37:36 PM

Quote from: turbob16hatch on December 31, 2009, 01:32:39 PM
Quote from: Passenger on December 31, 2009, 01:03:59 PM
No, don't lower your standards. Here is what you need to do:

Lower your balance, that is what is responsible for the excessive etching etching along the sides of your welds.
Do you have any freq control?
The weld for the tab on the tank is really cold, you need more heat.
The difference between your corner welds and your t joint tube weld is that your balance is too high, which creates a really wide shallow penetrating weld. In order to achieve the big fat stacked dime look you want to match your corner welds you would have to use about 4 times as much filler as the corner welds. Its not the material at all.
I have a syncrowave 200, i'm pretty sure it doesn't have high freq control.
I was using the standard setting of 7 what do you think i should have my balance set at?
How do my corner joints look as far as weld profile, all that?
Am i doing the t-joint properly? do i just need to use more filler and let it soak in more(penitration) between dabs?
Thanks for the responses.
Oh i don't know the material, but it is 5356 rod 99% sure.
Also what are your guys' thoughts on rod size? am i doing that right?

No the syncrowave 200 doesn't have adjustable frequency from what I remember.
Setting 7 doesn't mean shit to me, does the manual state where the "true" balanced wave form is on your dial? My guess is somewhere 3-5. Unless I am welding broken transmission cases or something really dirty I always try to stay well under balanced (more electrode negative) which will give you a more focused arc, better penetration etc. probably around setting 1-3 on your machine. If you can get me some more info I can offer some more help.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #22 on:** January 01, 2010, 04:56:42 PM »

ok i will try reducing the balance.

Thanks again for the help.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #23 on:** January 01, 2010, 06:02:51 PM »

In for updates

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #24 on:** January 01, 2010, 11:45:38 PM »

No new things need welding, and i won't be at the shop for 2 weeks. might be awhile.

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Author Topic: Aluminum welding questions? (Read 16111 times)