Topic: Engine Oil (Read 14001 times)

icemangsr · « **on:** March 26, 2009, 02:35:49 PM »

What kind of engine oil do you use and why?

I use mobil, mostly because I just always have. ExxonMobil supplies Honda, and I just never really used anything else. But with so many things changing I was curious what everyone uses.

Castrol GTX - I know a certain someone who says "If it's good enough for John Force, itâ€™s good enough for meâ€.

Brad Penn - I've been reading on it as a local guy runs it, but I don't really see the advantage honeslty. tests on BobIsTheOilGuy.com revealed nothing really advantageous.

I have been trying to get information on the new Torco oils as well as Greddy's new GREX oil and Motul's 300v. Thoughts?

This is purely for conversation purposes, as I will probably continue to run Mobil as it hasn't failed me yet.

jeffsciv23 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 26, 2009, 02:40:44 PM »

ive always liked mobile1, no real reason except personal preference

Kain · « **Reply #2 on:** March 26, 2009, 02:52:48 PM »

any shit 10-w30 brand can find.

outboard two stroke in the gasoline

97Econobox · « **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2009, 02:55:04 PM »

Yeah its sorta oil. I think i had some old timer telling me how most oils were just a scam anyway. Somthing abotu how basicly the only thing wrong with the oil you change out is a slight drop in Viscosity but eh main thing was a loss of all teh additives and horseshit they put in it. He kept Huge ass drums of the Recycled shit or refined shit and thats what he put in cars.

That said I buy whatever is name brand that isnt an arm and a leg. Who cares.

birdley42008 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2009, 02:58:36 PM »

Mobile 1 15w 50 in the summer/race season

Mobile 1 5 w 20 in the winter time

And always a liter of mystery marvel in the red bottle.

Jorsher · « **Reply #5 on:** March 26, 2009, 02:59:49 PM »

Quote from: 97Econobox on March 26, 2009, 02:55:04 PM

Yeah its sorta oil. I think i had some old timer telling me how most oils were just a scam anyway. Somthing abotu how basicly the only thing wrong with the oil you change out is a slight drop in Viscosity but eh main thing was a loss of all teh additives and horseshit they put in it. He kept Huge ass drums of the Recycled shit or refined shit and thats what he put in cars.

That said I buy whatever is name brand that isnt an arm and a leg. Who cares.

Eh I'll run the cheapest shit in my car until it all burns away and needs more oil (usually takes a week), but I wouldn't put used oil in an engine I care about. I'm sure the metal particles or whatever can't be good for the engine, although I've not done much oil research.

Kenny Rogers · « **Reply #6 on:** March 26, 2009, 03:01:15 PM »

Royal Purple because it's gangster status.

glustic · « **Reply #7 on:** March 26, 2009, 03:02:04 PM »

Quote from: Kenny Rogers on March 26, 2009, 03:01:15 PM

Royal Purple because it's gangster status.

+1 If I am boosted, atm I am not, so I run whatever my work has in the garage.. lol

t_cel_t · « **Reply #8 on:** March 26, 2009, 03:10:03 PM »

Valvoline durablend

patsmx5 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 26, 2009, 03:21:25 PM »

Walmart Synthetic. 5 quarts for 17.50.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #10 on:** March 26, 2009, 03:35:12 PM »

Ive always ran royal purple 10w30 if im boosted and I care about the motor. If I dont give a shit, I run castrol 10w30 in my hondas.

Robb · « **Reply #11 on:** March 26, 2009, 03:41:52 PM »

I run 15w-50 mobil 1 (free, fuck yeah!) on everything but the Wolfsburg, and it gets Castrol syntec 5w-40 (also free).

If I had to pay money for oil I'd imagine it would be the cheapest thing synthetic walmart has in a 50 weight.

g_shok · « **Reply #12 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:03:00 PM »

go back to ohmt

AbaZ · « **Reply #13 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:04:49 PM »

supertech on all my sidejobs. :somb:

Mobil 1 synthetic & synthetic blend is used in all of my personal cars, and its what we use in our shop.

but honestly I could careles what it is.

Jorsher · « **Reply #14 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:07:56 PM »

On a side-note: I've read conflicting opinions on running a car on synthetic from the start and not. My engine is getting built and hopefully installed within the next month. I'll definitely do the first few hundred on cheap oil, but is there anything wrong with starting with synthetic?

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #15 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:19:50 PM »

Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....

I too read ALOT (including on bobistheoilguy.com). Learned lotys about the zink and Phosphorus additives, and the diminishing quantaties used in US manufactured oils due to EPA regulations. Zincdithiophosphate is the additive that really bonds (impregnates) itself into metal...

I use Royal purple ONLY. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....

Lookie:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest

MantisX · « **Reply #16 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:21:48 PM »

My engine builder insisted I didnt try to run synthetic until 3k miles. He said something about ring seat. Normally id say fuck you and do it anyway but he sounded smart when he said it.

Urban Indian · « **Reply #17 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:26:40 PM »

Quote from: Kenny Rogers on March 26, 2009, 03:01:15 PM

Royal Purple because it's gangster status.

+1

I rape my shit like a hot step sister in alabama. This is the only way to go.

I use the cheapest re-re-re-refined oil I can find for my breakins

icemangsr · « **Reply #18 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:34:29 PM »

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on March 26, 2009, 04:19:50 PM

Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....

Lookie:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest

hmm now that is an interesting piece of reading isnt' it. i might have to do some more research and this mobil loyalty may be broken.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #19 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:35:27 PM »

Quote from: MantisX on March 26, 2009, 04:21:48 PM

My engine builder insisted I didnt try to run synthetic until 3k miles. He said something about ring seat. Normally id say fuck you and do it anyway but he sounded smart when he said it.

90 percent of ring se3atis done in 30 minutes... I break my shit in HARD too.... I go to SYNTH at asround 1K..

Fuck your couch

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #20 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:36:28 PM »

Quote from: icemangsr on March 26, 2009, 04:34:29 PM

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on March 26, 2009, 04:19:50 PM
I too read ALOT (including on bobistheoilguy.com). Learned lotys about the zink and Phosphorus additives, and the diminishing quantaties used in US manufactured oils due to EPA regulations. Zincdithiophosphate is the additive that really bonds (impregnates) itself ionto metal...

I use Royal purple ONLY. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....

Lookie:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest

hmm now that is an interesting piece of reading isnt' it. i might have to do some more research and this mobil loyalty may be broken.

I had mobile one in my motor when my valvetrain consumed itself. Switched to RP and havent had 1 issue. Im sold. No other oil will see my motor... SHort of breakin, when I use cheap as organic Havoline.

Jorsher · « **Reply #21 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:38:58 PM »

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on March 26, 2009, 04:19:50 PM

Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....

Lookie:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest

Nice link.

Goddamn, how much does it cost to fill the oil and how long does it last before the next change?

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #22 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:43:29 PM »

I Change out at around 1500 Miles and Use K&N filters...

But I get Cases for 82 bux.

Jorsher · « **Reply #23 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:44:07 PM »

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on March 26, 2009, 04:43:29 PM

I Change out at around 1500 Miles and Use K&N filters...

But I get Cases for 82 bux.

I'll buy a case

bizzy911 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:45:48 PM »

Quote from: Jorsher on March 26, 2009, 04:07:56 PM

On a side-note: I've read conflicting opinions on running a car on synthetic from the start and not. My engine is getting built and hopefully installed within the next month. I'll definitely do the first few hundred on cheap oil, but is there anything wrong with starting with synthetic?

yeah can any one agree on this, is it safe to run synthetic on factory new engine, i keep getting mixed answers, and also are new engines pre-broken in by the factory?

MantisX · « **Reply #25 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:52:12 PM »

Damn, I think im sold too. Its high but obviously worth it.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #26 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:52:48 PM »

Run organic the first thousand miles or so...

Heres what I do (and would with a new car (minus the "tuning" oil change---as they are IDLED around for the most part from the factory).

1.Build motor... Fill with Dino oil and new filter. Get motor up to operating temperature make sure there are no leaks... Heat cycle it once or twice. Shut her down and drain oil through a filter... If you can cut the oil filter open and inspect for metal particles

2. Fill with dino oil again and new filter. Go tune part throttle whilst LEED performs his blackness via lappy... Lots of loading the rings both on accell and decel, riding the brakes on the freeway etc.

About twenty minutes in (Or after a decent part throttle tune has been established) Start tuning boost coilums... By the end of the first HOUR my shits seeing 17-20 PSI and >=550WHP off a LEED Street tune.
I take her home, dump the oil and change the filter out again (Dino oil one last time)....

3. At 1000 Miles....Dump the oil and go to synthetic.

Evidently it works... FUCK babying a car for breakin... It WILL NOT seat the rings for shit. The old addage "break em in hard they run hard" works for more than teenage girls... It works for Race motors, and stock motors alike as well...

The shit is only a buck more than Mobile 1, cheap insurance for me.....

Hotrodlincoln · « **Reply #27 on:** March 26, 2009, 04:57:05 PM »

Schaeffer's oil pwns all!! But not something a lot of people know about nor can go buy off the shelf.

bizzy911 · « **Reply #28 on:** March 26, 2009, 05:00:38 PM »

i got a new ride will post pics soon, and i've been hard on it, its an '09 ex, and apperantly you shouldn't be hard on your car for the first 1k-2k miles...i was also told to get an early oil change to get rid of fillings true?

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #29 on:** March 26, 2009, 05:02:44 PM »

Can you read.

Look 2 posts up. Im making WELL OVER 500 WHP on a street tune less than an hour after getting the motor running.

You SHOULD be hard on it, not STUPID. Theres a difference.

Im usually both....

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Author Topic: Engine Oil (Read 14001 times)

birdley42008