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[onlyflash944]

are you sure you need a mpfi harness and not a dpfi harness that you convert to mpfi?

the mpfi harness won't work with a dpfi underdash harness

fuck if i know.  this shit was hacked up bigtime before i got it.  how can i tell if it is a mpfi or dpfi chassis?  the trim level on the trunk is gone and the car didn't come with a engine harness, so i'm clueless

[onlyflash944]

no engine harness when i bought the car.  guy said he used a rywire to run the engine but it had a z6 head and he wasn't using vtec. 

wtb: dpfi obd0 harness.  i can use the LS mpfi to do a conversion

[onlyflash944]

so i just looked at your original post and saw that it had an eg si harness.
so i have no idea about that.
however you can see "LX" on the trunk so i'm guessing you will need a dpfi harness. unless he fucked the interior harness too.
both the engine harness and interior harness have to be the same or else there is major problems.

damn these obd0 cars.  shit is complicated.  if it were obd1 i'd be finished by now

guess i'll look for a dpfi harness and go from there and hope for the best

[onlyflash944]

if you want to spend a little money there is a guy on HT that sells dpfi harness pre converted to mpfi.
that's what i was gonna do to my hatch. since i think my harness is bad, i was gonna have to buy another harness and convert it my self. cheapest harness i found was $100.
this guy sells them converted for $140 shipped
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2433707

i don't know how much the dpfi harness goes for around you, but $140 is a good price from my searching

i had already found a mpfi harness for 70 about an hour away on CL.  honda stuff is fairly cheap here.  i'll scope out the breakers around here and take a better look on cl for parts cars.  i can do the conversion myself, to save a few bucks.  doesnt' look that hard, especially when compared to trying to make that ls harness work in teh civic, lol

has the under dash harness been messed with at all?
if it has, then you might want to verify it's a dpfi harness under there too. i'm not sure how to check that.

i don't even know.  i'll look tomorrow.  thanks for helping a obd0 newb out

[onlyflash944]

yeah the conversion is easy, i just figured i'd spend the extra $40 and get it all done from one place. saves me driving around looking for the dpfi harness

scored a dpfi harness at the local pick and pull, 15 min from my house.  harness and pocket full of free goodies was $35.  that harness looks like a good candidate for the conversion, but the under dash is a little iffy.  I have my concerns.  I want to continuity check everything before i start cutting and repinning

[Joseph Davis]

I'd rather repin an OBD1 harness than deal with a rotted out OBD1 harness.

[Minor Threat]

I'd rather repin an OBD1 harness than deal with a rotted out OBD1 harness.

This.

I also like using OBD2 harnesses, repinned to OBD1 and then splice the 12 or so chassis wires as needed.

[onlyflash944]

well i got the conversion done.  ran out of heat shrink tubing so the last 8 or so joints are just twisted with tape for now.  i'll solder them up later.  got a few more things to do before i see how good of a electrician i am.  throttle cable swap is the big one and fill with oil.  not too worried about shift linkage/clutch cable, a/c and p/s, and the exhaust for the test fire.  i'll do them later

[onlyflash944]

on the tps, do i need the green or the yellow wire on top?  shit is trying to run but it won't fire

[onlyflash944]

VICTORY IS MINE



throwing a 4,5, and 14 code and it DEFINATLEY needs the valves adjusted but it runs.  done for the night, neighbors probably don't like hearing cars run without the exhaust manifold on

[onlyflash944]

awesome, congrats

4 crank position sensor
5 map
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve

have fun

yea, i already looked them up.  the map sensor and eacv are easy, as i didn't hook up a single vacuum line to the intake mani, the crank position i'm not sure about, as it was two of the four wires i ran through the fire wall.  i just threw everything on that i needed to to get it running.   it idled on it's own for about 30 secondes and i shut it down because the only cooling system component installed is the tstat. 

lots to do to get it on the road, but today was a milestone for me

[Joseph Davis]

yea, i already looked them up.  the map sensor and eacv are easy, as i didn't hook up a single vacuum line to the intake mani,

IACV code means the ECU doesn't etect one.  There are no vacuum hoses associated with the IACV operation or its throwing CELs.

the crank position i'm not sure about

Polarity, but it might not be the TDC sensor thats backwards.  If base timing is correct then TDC is wired correctly and its one of the other sensors out of phase.

[onlyflash944]

yea, i already looked them up.  the map sensor and eacv are easy, as i didn't hook up a single vacuum line to the intake mani,

IACV code means the ECU doesn't etect one.  There are no vacuum hoses associated with the IACV operation or its throwing CELs.

well then i'll have to look into that one.  it was off of the intake manifold because i pressure washed it at the car wash to get some of the gunk out of the inside so i might have messed it up or something.  anyway the car isn't but 60% together so once i get it all installed the right way then i'll worry about it.

the crank position i'm not sure about

Polarity, but it might not be the TDC sensor thats backwards.  If base timing is correct then TDC is wired correctly and its one of the other sensors out of phase.

polarity was my first guess, as i might have switched the two wires a I ran.  it was hard to start and i remember reading that if you hook it up backward it retards the timing a lot.  i'll play with it and see.

[onlyflash944]

am I really going to have to spend 100+ bucks on a bracket for the a/c or fab one up?

can i use the stock b18 compressor and just run new lines and clear the rad and crossmember?

[onlyflash944]

looks like it's time to make one of these diy brackets

[onlyflash944]

i almost did that with my civic, but ended up not wanting ac anymore

I want it because i'm not keeping the car.  more shit that works = more money in my pocket, which will be spent on the next project: 2000 Cavalier UCAR.

[Joseph Davis]

wat

[onlyflash944]

wat

U Can Afford Racing.  el cheap-o stock car circle track racing

http://www.motormilespeedway.com/_mms_2008/news.php

Motor Mile Speedway UCAR

[Joseph Davis]

You would waste a perfectly good Cavalier on that?  Screams 01+ Civic to me.

[onlyflash944]

You would waste a perfectly good Cavalier on that?  Screams 01+ Civic to me.

per rule book, '80 and newer 4 cyl sohc AMERICAN made fwd 105" and shorter wheel base car

got the roll cage on order, and I want this civic on the road to pick it up at the end of this week, as it is a decent roadtrip.

[Joseph Davis]

Cavaliers are Mexican. 

Sounds like you want an Accord.

[onlyflash944]

Cavaliers are Mexican. 

Sounds like you want an Accord.

sounds like you want these guys, they allow imports

http://www.ucarclash.com/

[Joseph Davis]

Oh, so I'm not one of your people.  I see how it is.


*sob*

[onlyflash944]

the people i'm racing with at the motormile is like 25 min from my house.  the imports are donw in NC, closer to you probably than me

[onlyflash944]

drag strip opens tomorrow.  trying to get the car road ready to take it there.  got a lot of little shit to do before tomorrow at 6. 

[onlyflash944]

well i can't get the code 14 to go away.  swapped the eacv with a known good one and the code still doesn't go away.  i tried testing continuity from A11 to the plug and got nothing, so hopefully i was able to shove the test leads on the multimeter in the plug good enough where it was making contact and there is infact an open in the wire somewhere.

now for another problem.  i'm loosing spark.  when the engine is cold, and when its cooler outside (like in the morning or evenings here in va) the car starts easy enough.  then after it warms up, the damn thing just dies when you give it gas, unless you EASE the throttle down, then it will actually rev.  all this is in neutral.  as soon as it warms up and you put a load on teh engien trying to pull out it dies dead as a doornail.  can't get it to start cause there is no spark.  does this sound like a coil gone bad?

[chris]

Bust out the multimeter for the coil


also you sure you dont have the iat/iacv plugs mixed up?

[onlyflash944]

Bust out the multimeter for the coil

and do what?  a continuity check when its hot vs when it is cold?  i'm 84% sure its the coil

[onlyflash944]

also you sure you dont have the iat/iacv plugs mixed up?

uhh definatley not sure.  didn't even think about it because it's obd0 and that didn't cross my mind of usual shit that could be wrong.  i'll check tomorrow

[chris]

I mixed up the iat/iacv plugs back in the old school days when i was 17-18 doing my first swaps. I have seen numerous people do it as they are the same plug so it can be an easy f-up.