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[90turboteg]

so im going to be welding my 4" vband clamp to my turbo, wondering what filler i should use to do so? i know stainless dosent have much nickel in it or else i would just go with it... i weld most cast with nickel at work.


 Also made a miniram recently and it turned out alot nicer than my shorty pos i made a while back. id post pics but im still not super happy with my work yet. looks alot better though and fitment is awesome.. still need to get better with consistency and work on keeping the ss clean. i work on dirty motor shit all day so my bench is pretty contaminated at work.

fuck it, shitty cell pics









criticism wanted

[t_cel_t]

i weld most cast with nickel at work

steal some rod then

[bigwig]

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2733174

Yeah, yeah, yeah, it's H-T but it has your answer.

[Joseph Davis]

First tuning, now welding.  Are you mastering yet another art that you've never done and never will do?   

[civiceggturbo]

I used 309 just to weld the wastegate flapper shut on my 16g, just the top of it where the conecting rod goes. I did'nt have any nickle rod at work and I used a down pipe flange that blocked off the internal gate anyway, just did'nt want the flapper to keep moving around. Its held up with no cracks for a year or so now

[dvst8r]

+1 on 309, works great for that sort of thing.

[90turboteg]

First tuning, now welding.  Are you mastering yet another art that you've never done and never will do?   

wtf are you talking about, tuning? ive never tryed to tune anything, im a retard when it comes to computers, dave lee is the man for tuning around here. and welding, well i do it for a living, tig, ark and mig 4-5 days a week so i hope i know how to do it, i just rarly do stainless, i do cast alot but not cast- stainless.

+1 on 309, works great for that sort of thing.

ok thanks for the info, just want it to hold up. ive never gone to school to learn everything, my dad showed  me how to weld and then i went from there to get better, id like to go to school to learn more, but ive learned alot at work from experience also. wish we did stainless. i have a bunch of 309 left from the turbo manifolds i did

[bigwig]

First tuning, now welding.  Are you mastering yet another art that you've never done and never will do?   

wtf are you talking about, tuning? ive never tryed to tune anything, im a retard when it comes to computers, dave lee is the man for tuning around here. and welding, well i do it for a living, tig, ark and mig 4-5 days a week so i hope i know how to do it, i just rarly do stainless, i do cast alot but not cast- stainless.

+1 on 309, works great for that sort of thing.

ok thanks for the info, just want it to hold up. ive never gone to school to learn everything, my dad showed  me how to weld and then i went from there to get better, id like to go to school to learn more, but ive learned alot at work from experience also. wish we did stainless. i have a bunch of 309 left from the turbo manifolds i did

He's talking to me.  He has a hard-on for me.

[90turboteg]

oh, it didnt seem to direct. i was like, ive never tryed to tune anything, if someone wants there shit to not even start then have me tune it lol. its the last thing id do on a car, i can wire shit but dont like to. i like fabrication, welding and wrenching on cars, thats about it. everything else is crap, ive done some bodywork/paint work but it fucking blows :yes:

[Joseph Davis]

First tuning, now welding.  Are you mastering yet another art that you've never done and never will do?   

wtf are you talking about, tuning? ive never tryed to tune anything, im a retard when it comes to computers, dave lee is the man for tuning around here. and welding, well i do it for a living, tig, ark and mig 4-5 days a week so i hope i know how to do it, i just rarly do stainless, i do cast alot but not cast- stainless.

+1 on 309, works great for that sort of thing.

ok thanks for the info, just want it to hold up. ive never gone to school to learn everything, my dad showed  me how to weld and then i went from there to get better, id like to go to school to learn more, but ive learned alot at work from experience also. wish we did stainless. i have a bunch of 309 left from the turbo manifolds i did

He's talking to me.  He has a hard-on for me.

And you have a hard-on for not answering arguments you can't win.  You're the half of me that, while it defines me, I have to keep on a leash.  I can sit and research until I can out argue anyone who's made a million dollars doing it, but at the end of the day I've done nothing, accomplished nothing, and aside from how to win some internet word games I've learned to do exactly nothing.  Get out of the fucking house, do something, do anything.  Stop pacing inside of your box and fretting, as real world action will serve you well.  Mmmm, how do I know?

Personally, buying a goddamn Subaru station wagon and touring the country was a prime plan, and you're pissing away the days in which you are able to fully do it away.

[bigwig]

Joseph,

I'm taking applications for life coaches.  Please send your resume to my email address.  It's my full name @gmail.com

[turbob16hatch]

That manifold doesn't look to bad. But here are a few things i noticed that could use work.

- Your tie in's look good but there kinda of all over the place. You need to pick a spot to stop moving the torch side to side. Like for instance if i'm making a weld on a pipe thats a butt weld. I will prep it as i do all my butt welds with a nice bevel (key is a sharp edge) then i will do a root pass with no filler this just gets my some good penitration that i can then follow up later and fill in. What this also does is gives me a reference for where i need to stop moving the torch to control bead width. If you can keep the width of the beads uniform they will look 10 times better.

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

- On your flange welds they look ok, but it looks liek your depositing to little filler at a time and moving quite slow (think overlapping with small amounts of filler more often then large amounts less often). Are you using 1/16th rod? I use  3/32 rod and do the basic dabbing techique. (Dab move dab move) I dab at the top and drag the torch down and forward at the same time. what i try to do is get into a rythm, this allows me to focus on my movements being uniform and less on worrying that i'm doing them correctly. i will set up my width (see tie in quote) and just go back and forth doing the weld. I have the machine set at 130-135 amps and am at 80% ish on the peddle. Don't be afraid to push the filler into the puddle.

thats it for now, as i couldn't see a whole lot from the pictures.

[HiProfile]

First tuning, now welding.  Are you mastering yet another art that you've never done and never will do?   

wtf are you talking about, tuning? ive never tryed to tune anything, im a retard when it comes to computers, dave lee is the man for tuning around here. and welding, well i do it for a living, tig, ark and mig 4-5 days a week so i hope i know how to do it, i just rarly do stainless, i do cast alot but not cast- stainless.

+1 on 309, works great for that sort of thing.

ok thanks for the info, just want it to hold up. ive never gone to school to learn everything, my dad showed  me how to weld and then i went from there to get better, id like to go to school to learn more, but ive learned alot at work from experience also. wish we did stainless. i have a bunch of 309 left from the turbo manifolds i did

He's talking to me.  He has a hard-on for me.

And you have a hard-on for not answering arguments you can't win.  You're the half of me that, while it defines me, I have to keep on a leash.  I can sit and research until I can out argue anyone who's made a million dollars doing it, but at the end of the day I've done nothing, accomplished nothing, and aside from how to win some internet word games I've learned to do exactly nothing.  Get out of the fucking house, do something, do anything.  Stop pacing inside of your box and fretting, as real world action will serve you well.  Mmmm, how do I know?

Personally, buying a goddamn Subaru station wagon and touring the country was a prime plan, and you're pissing away the days in which you are able to fully do it away.

The only twist: bigwig at the PC, JD "in bed"....

[90turboteg]

That manifold doesn't look to bad. But here are a few things i noticed that could use work.

- Your tie in's look good but there kinda of all over the place. You need to pick a spot to stop moving the torch side to side. Like for instance if i'm making a weld on a pipe thats a butt weld. I will prep it as i do all my butt welds with a nice bevel (key is a sharp edge) then i will do a root pass with no filler this just gets my some good penitration that i can then follow up later and fill in. What this also does is gives me a reference for where i need to stop moving the torch to control bead width. If you can keep the width of the beads uniform they will look 10 times better.

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

- On your flange welds they look ok, but it looks liek your depositing to little filler at a time and moving quite slow (think overlapping with small amounts of filler more often then large amounts less often). Are you using 1/16th rod? I use  3/32 rod and do the basic dabbing techique. (Dab move dab move) I dab at the top and drag the torch down and forward at the same time. what i try to do is get into a rythm, this allows me to focus on my movements being uniform and less on worrying that i'm doing them correctly. i will set up my width (see tie in quote) and just go back and forth doing the weld. I have the machine set at 130-135 amps and am at 80% ish on the peddle. Don't be afraid to push the filler into the puddle.

thats it for now, as i couldn't see a whole lot from the pictures.

thanks for the info, i feel like im getting better every time i do stainless. but have a long ways to go, i will post up pics when i make some crazy custom manifold for my vitara setup in my 1g crx. im limited to a #8 cup with my watercooled torch that i have. and i haven't cleaned the manifold up at all yet, still need to do some port matching and de burring. also need to surface the manifold.

i will probably just sell this manifold for cheap, i didn't build it for anyone, i just felt like getting more practice. i appreciate any info/help you baller welders have for me. I will take some better pics of this manifold this weekend and erase the shitty cell phone pictures. So then you guys can let me know what i need to do differently, id really like to see alot more improvement on my next manifold. The collector i made was 4" long but the manifold ended up being to long, so no oil return would be possable, so i cut it down to 3". Kind of learning as a i go. Cant wait to get my shop setup so i can weld in a clean area and have no contamination like i run into at work doing so much different work.

Welding questions

so ive been told to run a root pass on all of the pipe-pipe welds, and use 1/16" filler after the 90 amp root pass, but i have a problem geting the pipes to bond together. do you dab a little filler to get it going first?

also should i go with 3/32 filler on the pipe to flange? ive been running about 95amps from pipe-flange, and saw you run more amps turbob16hatch.

things id like to change,
get a bigger torch so i can run #12 cup on easier spots to weld, and go smaller for harder spots

clean the metal better, and bevel the straight pieces on my laith.

take your nogs advise and go to town

and make a stainless frendly welding area, my work isnt ideal. plus i would like to make a plate to bolt the flanges to so i dont warp them so badly.

Im not trying to make these for a living or anything, but i fabricate everyday and being able to make my own shit, and maybe a few things for friends here and there is nice. plus i really enjoy it. Taking some welding classes this fall also to learn more info about welding, and better techniques. cant wait

[turbob16hatch]

thanks for the info, i feel like im getting better every time i do stainless. but have a long ways to go, i will post up pics when i make some crazy custom manifold for my vitara setup in my 1g crx. im limited to a #8 cup with my watercooled torch that i have. and i haven't cleaned the manifold up at all yet, still need to do some port matching and de burring. also need to surface the manifold.

i will probably just sell this manifold for cheap, i didn't build it for anyone, i just felt like getting more practice. i appreciate any info/help you baller welders have for me. I will take some better pics of this manifold this weekend and erase the shitty cell phone pictures. So then you guys can let me know what i need to do differently, id really like to see alot more improvement on my next manifold. The collector i made was 4" long but the manifold ended up being to long, so no oil return would be possable, so i cut it down to 3". Kind of learning as a i go. Cant wait to get my shop setup so i can weld in a clean area and have no contamination like i run into at work doing so much different work.

I use a 3" collector some times a 2.75" collector on shorty's.

Welding questions

so ive been told to run a root pass on all of the pipe-pipe welds, and use 1/16" filler after the 90 amp root pass, but i have a problem geting the pipes to bond together. do you dab a little filler to get it going first?

I run my root pass at the same amps i run the filler/cap pass at. (machine set at 80 amps). Ypur issue with bonding of the two metals is that your runnign to hot. 80 amps is hot for sch10 but with a root pass you run fast and hot to get penitration. I usually have 5-6 tacks around the pipes before i root them. So theres plenty of starting points. BTW i can get 1005 penitration with 80 amps if theres a proper bevel put on the pipe.

also should i go with 3/32 filler on the pipe to flange? ive been running about 95amps from pipe-flange, and saw you run more amps turbob16hatch.

I use 3/32 rod because i can run hotter and it cools the puddle more then 1/16 will. So i run 130-135 amps as your not going to burn through on a 3/8" plate to sch10 pipe. And penitration is key to keeping manifolds together.

things id like to change,
get a bigger torch so i can run #12 cup on easier spots to weld, and go smaller for harder spots

I use a number 8 on all my welding except for thin wall tubing.

clean the metal better, and bevel the straight pieces on my laith.

take your nogs advise and go to town

and make a stainless frendly welding area, my work isnt ideal. plus i would like to make a plate to bolt the flanges to so i dont warp them so badly.

Im not trying to make these for a living or anything, but i fabricate everyday and being able to make my own shit, and maybe a few things for friends here and there is nice. plus i really enjoy it. Taking some welding classes this fall also to learn more info about welding, and better techniques. cant wait

[90turboteg]

cool. thanks for the info. ill keep everything in mind when i make my manifold. and probably practice on some scrap i have. ya when im doing a root pass i had it at 90 amps, so ill turn it down and go from there, also the tacks make alot of sence, because i was having a problem with burning threw without filler, or just not getting them to bond for shit. do you backpurge everything also?

[turbob16hatch]

I don't backperge as well i hate setting it up and i haven't had a weld failure without purging. I can control how far a penitrate the material buy how slow i go yadda yadda, so i know how much burn through will be on the back side.

You need to move the torch side to side like your actually welding, and this will draw the metal together.

[90turboteg]

my first time trying a helium 25%/ Argon 75% mix on aluminum heads at work, was getting the cfh set, just fucking around on a junk 22r head. This was about 2 months ago. Shit puddles nicely and heats alot easier. Now that im used to it ive done some pretty  welds, espeicaly when i have to make intake manifolds for motor test kits from scratch

[Joseph Davis]

Joseph,

I'm taking applications for life coaches.  Please send your resume to my email address.  It's my full name @gmail.com

Sent.


Jeff, I fucking hate you.

[90turboteg]

made a fucking plate to bolt manifold flanges to today at my 2nd job, working at a machine shop part time with my dad, cool to learn shit from him and the owner, plus i make 18hr regular and 22 when i go to contracting jobs, i just want work to pick up there so i can ditch my 15hr job at the engine reman factory.

it has holes drilled and taped for d, b and 4g63 flanges. ill post pics when im not drinking

[onlyflash944]

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

the first thing i noticed on teh mani.  you should try to port out the inside of the flange to help flow

[bigwig]

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

the first thing i noticed on teh mani.  you should try to port out the inside of the flange to help flow

I wouldn't be concerned about this.  Just try to do a bit better next time.  Unless you are cutting rectangular collectors, your collectors are wrong so who gives a fuck?  Turbulence in front of the turbo will do your wastegate a favor.

[90turboteg]

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

the first thing i noticed on teh mani.  you should try to port out the inside of the flange to help flow

i actualy did port it a bit, these are pics directly after i welded it. it will work fine, and i dont plan on running it, just selling it for what i have into it. d series ftw

[onlyflash944]

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

the first thing i noticed on teh mani.  you should try to port out the inside of the flange to help flow

i actualy did port it a bit, these are pics directly after i welded it. it will work fine, and i dont plan on running it, just selling it for what i have into it. d series ftw

log manifolds work fine, but they're not ideal either.  selling for what you have in it = epic win for practice

[turbob16hatch]

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

the first thing i noticed on teh mani.  you should try to port out the inside of the flange to help flow

I wouldn't be concerned about this.  Just try to do a bit better next time.  Unless you are cutting rectangular collectors, your collectors are wrong so who gives a fuck?  Turbulence in front of the turbo will do your wastegate a favor.

Well i don't put t67 turbo's with huge .82 hotside and try and run 5 psi. so me trying to "help" a wastegate control boost is a silly and rediculous idea. I form collectors to the T3 inlet, then port the excess. The wastegate will do it's job as long as the turbo is properly picked for the set up.

BTW: this isn't h-t we run our turbo at NOG setting all the time.

[onlyflash944]

BTW: this isn't h-t we run our turbo at NOG setting all the time.

but just don't tell that to your tooner that right before a steet tune. isn't that right, JD?   lol

[Joseph Davis]

The 18 psi wastegate was a little overwhelming, yes.

[onlyflash944]

lol, i didn't really think about that before the trip down there.  i havent' touched the darn car since.  need to get enough ahead to order a new clutch disc and will just keep the other for backup, then make the trip again down that way

[bigwig]

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

the first thing i noticed on teh mani.  you should try to port out the inside of the flange to help flow

I wouldn't be concerned about this.  Just try to do a bit better next time.  Unless you are cutting rectangular collectors, your collectors are wrong so who gives a fuck?  Turbulence in front of the turbo will do your wastegate a favor.

Well i don't put t67 turbo's with huge .82 hotside and try and run 5 psi. so me trying to "help" a wastegate control boost is a silly and rediculous idea. I form collectors to the T3 inlet, then port the excess. The wastegate will do it's job as long as the turbo is properly picked for the set up.

BTW: this isn't h-t we run our turbo at NOG setting all the time.

If you say so.

[turbob16hatch]

- Your collector is cut a bit big for the T3 inlet. this can cause a lot of flow problems and hurt turbo spool considerably. Now this could be not finished in the pics, but that area needs to be ported heavily to get the gases to flow smoothly into the turbo.

the first thing i noticed on teh mani.  you should try to port out the inside of the flange to help flow

I wouldn't be concerned about this.  Just try to do a bit better next time.  Unless you are cutting rectangular collectors, your collectors are wrong so who gives a fuck?  Turbulence in front of the turbo will do your wastegate a favor.

Well i don't put t67 turbo's with huge .82 hotside and try and run 5 psi. so me trying to "help" a wastegate control boost is a silly and rediculous idea. I form collectors to the T3 inlet, then port the excess. The wastegate will do it's job as long as the turbo is properly picked for the set up.

BTW: this isn't h-t we run our turbo at NOG setting all the time.

If you say so.

Whats that supposed to mean? You eather don't build turbo manifolds or arn't around enough turbo cars if your questioning my statement. You don't need sweat stepped collector-turbo manifolds to get boost to hold steady, you just need to know what your doing when setting up a turbo and manifold combo.

JD may be right about you.