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[chris]

Run 25 degrees and real gas.

[lilpooh21186]

Add timing sounds like win

[bigwig]

Joseph Davis Theory: Cam timing/B16 Failure
Chris M Theory: Not enough ignition timing/fake gas
Bigwig Theory: Fucked Turbo

[Joseph Davis]

Joseph Davis Theory: Cam timing/B16 Failure
Chris M Theory: Not enough ignition timing and bad gas
Bigwig Theory: Fucked Turbo

Fixed

[b20beast]

Joseph Davis Theory: Cam timing/B16 Failure
Chris M Theory: Not enough ignition timing and bad gas
Bigwig Theory: Fucked Turbo

Fixed

so who is right

[b20beast]

Joseph Davis Theory: Cam timing/B16 Failure
Chris M Theory: Not enough ignition timing and bad gas
Bigwig Theory: Fucked Turbo

Fixed

just some noob question about the cam timing
TDC crank pulley, and cam gears pointing -> <-
right

[bigdaddyvtec]

Me,

Your shits slow and no 200ish whp B failure is going to touch ANY 2JZ making 500.


Now, fuck your mom.

[chris]

cam timing seems to be good last time i checked!

common guys, i posted alot of info here, im sure you can figure it out

The answers have already been given to you sir.

[random-strike]

more boost

[b20beast]

Me,

Your shits slow and no 250ish whp B failure is going to touch ANY 2JZ making 500.


Now, fuck your mom.

it may make 300 on another dyno
idk ?

[chris]

http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/media/HMTDynoDayFeb05.wmv


Jeff frank speaks the truth

[b20beast]

http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/media/HMTDynoDayFeb05.wmv


Jeff frank speaks the truth

summarise pls, no sprks!

[Teg2boo]

b16 are worthless

[b20beast]

b16 are worthless

why is that?

[chris]

http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/media/HMTDynoDayFeb05.wmv


Jeff frank speaks the truth

summarise pls, no sprks!

ok fuck off and its almost wednesday

[malichite]

stay wednesday

[98vtec]

Me,

Your shits slow and no 250ish whp B failure is going to touch ANY 2JZ making 500.


Now, fuck your mom.

it may make 300 on another dyno
idk ?

and still be just as slow as it is now

[98vtec]

oh yea, and fix your fucking timing map.  Looks like a taco bell night.

do you have ignition corrections turned off in boost via hardware settings in the parameters window?

[Phate]

Me,

Your shits slow and no 250ish whp B failure is going to touch ANY 2JZ making 500.


Now, fuck your mom.

it may make 300 on another dyno
idk ?

Maybe on the same dyno that bisi made 700+whp with his Z6?

[snm95ls]

That dyno plot looks like a bag of smashed assholes, and the smoothing is at 4.

 

An 8:1 B16 with ITR cams...

That sounds like a brilliant combination...

[sewell94]

I'll probably piss a bunch of people off but some of the funniest cars i've driven have been boosted b16's.  Jd thinks their fail, i think they make great street engines in in the correct chassis(ie crx).

 I like the setup, simple and will make good power when you get your issues figured out. It should pull to close to 9k, not drop off a cliff like it is. The first thing i notice about this setup is that your dizzy is retarded like a mofo, so either your ign timing isnt set or your cam timings off. I've made 450hp on a 2.25 Dp so it'll work even though its not ideal, it'll still make power. Your Vtec needs to be set higher. The tune looks like it needs some work.

Whats up with the vaccum line that goes to the bottom port on the wg, its T off the manifold, where is the other end going to?

Put some sort of intake pipe on the turbo so its not sucking up hot ass air from the radator. I've seen a 25hp gain/loss from removing/putting one back on a boosted car similar to yours.

The power will be where you expect it when you figure out your issue. A b16 isnt going to make 300 on any real reading dyno, good thing your on a dynojunk.

 

[Joseph Davis]

The first thing i notice about this setup is that your dizzy is retarded like a mofo, so either your ign timing isnt set or your cam timings off.

Given the shape of the powerband, cam timing.

[b20beast]

Sorry bout the engine bay pic, its a really old one, and the dizzy is not set like that at the moment.

it is 16*


I dont know how true, but *this* particular dyno is said to read like ASS.
so i may put her on another dyno, but first let me check the cam timing as mentioned.

[HiProfile]

spot on
the turbo when i got it, shaft wouldnt of even spin, so i cleaned it out and changed bearings and seals.

I recall someone posting the gains the got from switching to a new turbo - same exact turbo, just with a FUNCTIONAL thrust bearing. They gained either 20 or 50whp simply because the thrust bearing had been eating itself. If your turbo is still creating excessive firction, that will lead to much more backpressure. The motor has to build more pressure to spin the wheel the same speed. Backpressure plus bigger cams = heartbreak.

One common thing people get is a boost leak. It's much more "damaging" to power than anyone with a Honda can imagine. The turbo has to start spinning a lot faster, which requires more backpressure, and it ends up running in a less efficient "island" to give you a certain amount of boost. In other words, boost leak = everything working much harder for less power.



Best way to test if it's the dyno is to take it to the track. Weigh your car with a full tank (I prefer the "you-load" style designer rock/mulch places' scales, more accurate than a gravel pit's scale) and do some math with a few online 1/4 mile calculators. If it's the dyno, numbers will be way off. Otherwise...there indeed is a bug in your setup.

[ratcityrex]

OK, you are looking at this all wrong. Never mind that a dyno tells you how much hp and tq you are making. You need to look at a dyno as a tuning tool. Just like a wideband is a tuning tool, or an egt setup is a tuning tool. If you look at it like that, then you will figure out your problems and then have a car that is a better running/driving motor/car. In this instance like JD said. Cam timing looks a little funky as the power just falls on its face.

 So on that note, did you have the block milled a bunch, or the head milled? What is you actual compression? Are your cams degreed to make sure youe have correct cam timing? Are you running aftermarket cam gears or oem? Are the gears the same code as the cams? (idk if this matters in this instance assuming if they are stock)

Come on man if you want help you need to give us the info to help you.

[b20beast]

OK, you are looking at this all wrong. Never mind that a dyno tells you how much hp and tq you are making. You need to look at a dyno as a tuning tool. Just like a wideband is a tuning tool, or an egt setup is a tuning tool. If you look at it like that, then you will figure out your problems and then have a car that is a better running/driving motor/car. In this instance like JD said. Cam timing looks a little funky as the power just falls on its face.

 So on that note, did you have the block milled a bunch, or the head milled? What is you actual compression? Are your cams degreed to make sure youe have correct cam timing? Are you running aftermarket cam gears or oem? Are the gears the same code as the cams? (idk if this matters in this instance assuming if they are stock)

Come on man if you want help you need to give us the info to help you.

i had the blocked decked and head skimmed, skunk2 cam gears...
thats about it.

[98vtec]

how much was the block decked and head milled?  what thickness headgasket are you using?  what are your gears set at?

[bigwig]

spot on
the turbo when i got it, shaft wouldnt of even spin, so i cleaned it out and changed bearings and seals.

I recall someone posting the gains the got from switching to a new turbo - same exact turbo, just with a FUNCTIONAL thrust bearing. They gained either 20 or 50whp simply because the thrust bearing had been eating itself. If your turbo is still creating excessive firction, that will lead to much more backpressure. The motor has to build more pressure to spin the wheel the same speed. Backpressure plus bigger cams = heartbreak.

One common thing people get is a boost leak. It's much more "damaging" to power than anyone with a Honda can imagine. The turbo has to start spinning a lot faster, which requires more backpressure, and it ends up running in a less efficient "island" to give you a certain amount of boost. In other words, boost leak = everything working much harder for less power.



Best way to test if it's the dyno is to take it to the track. Weigh your car with a full tank (I prefer the "you-load" style designer rock/mulch places' scales, more accurate than a gravel pit's scale) and do some math with a few online 1/4 mile calculators. If it's the dyno, numbers will be way off. Otherwise...there indeed is a bug in your setup.

I didn't feel like giving Joseph the satisfaction of me typing this out, but these are my thoughts.  I've seen very similar stuff with leaks and faulty WG's as well.  When he said his turbo was fucked, it made me think it was the issue.

[ratcityrex]

i had the blocked decked and head skimmed, skunk2 cam gears...
thats about it.

cdm FTW!

So because they are skank12 you think that they are accurate?

So have you checked to see if the gears have slipped at all? Or what are the settings? Did you guys mess with them at all when you were on the dyno? B4 you start fucking with them, did you check to see what you p2v clearance is? When was the last time you did a valeve adjustment, when was the last time you did a compression test?

This it the kind of info we need to know to diagnose your shit for you.

[98vtec]

what does the timing light say your base timing is with your distributor set the way it is?