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[t_cel_t]

so my lc1 will blink at a rate of 2 blinks very second (according to manual it is heating up) forever.
there are no error codes as the blinking is always the same(2x sec).
is this going to fuck the sensor?

i dont have a gauge but it still works in megatune and logworks.

[snm95ls]

What does the status say in Logworks?  Does it show as warming up?

The controller will also flash the LED output at the same rate just after programming as well.

[t_cel_t]

it just shows the a/f ratio. sometimes its on solid and sometimes its blinking for an hour strait.

[runsfromdacops]

should only take 30 sec. to heat up then the led should stay on.

[t_cel_t]

should only take 30 sec. to heat up then the led should stay on.

it doesnt

[runsfromdacops]

i have the manuel ill look for you in the morning

[t_cel_t]

took it out for a spin again a little while ago. did the 2x sec blink for about 30 sec then went continuous on, about a mile down the road it went back to 2x sec blinking again untill i got back home like 20 min later.

[Eville140]

I know what the problem is as mine does the same thing.  The Lc-1's are huge stinking piles of shit.  Why the hell I got rid of my lunchbox sized old school lm-1 for it I don't know but I hate myself ever time I get in the car for it.
I'm going to get a AEM wideband here soon, sure it might be a tiny bit off, but the damn thing will work every time.
I can't even tell you how many datalogs I have that are crap because halfway through the pull the damn lc-1 does it's blinky shit.  And my f'n grounds are solid Innovate so suck my ass.

Yes mad
Slightly venting
Randy

[98vtec]

The Lc-1's are huge stinking piles of shit. 

[bigdaddyvtec]

PLX FOR LIFES

[runsfromdacops]

AEMs are trash...

i like my lc1 other then i need to reprogram it for a 0-5 volt output rather then the gay 1-2 volt it comes with stock

[98vtec]

Pretty happy with my plx.
aem junk
Lc1 junk
Zeitronix junk (but did have a nice built in logger)

[snm95ls]

Lol.

I guess I am in the minority then.  I have never had an issue with either of my LC1s that I couldn't remedy with the quickness.  They do not tolerate half assed wiring, that is for sure.

I've got one of the first ones and it is still working just fine 4 or 5 years later.  I dunno how long I have had the damn thing now.  I bought a second one to use for tuning other peoples' cars about a year later and it still works just fine.

[t_cel_t]

thing is i know its wired fucking perfect, it worked fine for about a week then started this bullshit.

[Robb]

so my lc1 will blink at a rate of 2 blinks very second (according to manual it is heating up) forever.
there are no error codes as the blinking is always the same(2x sec).
is this going to fuck the sensor?

i dont have a gauge but it still works in megatune and logworks.

I was under the impression that this means the heater circuit in the o2 sensor is faulty?  I remember this for some reason but cant find it written down anywhere, hmm.  You have a spare 02 sensor to try?

[Joseph Davis]

I know what the problem is as mine does the same thing.  The Lc-1's are huge stinking piles of shit.  Why the hell I got rid of my lunchbox sized old school lm-1 for it I don't know but I hate myself ever time I get in the car for it.
I'm going to get a AEM wideband here soon, sure it might be a tiny bit off, but the damn thing will work every time.
I can't even tell you how many datalogs I have that are crap because halfway through the pull the damn lc-1 does it's blinky shit.  And my f'n grounds are solid Innovate so suck my ass.

Yes mad
Slightly venting
Randy

Randy, hit me up and I'll get you some prices on a PLX with pillar gauge that will make you happy.

[t_cel_t]

so anyway finally got the car to run on the megasquirt and i get the timing right and everything and the fucking wideband is reading bullshit numbers.
i go to take it out to do a free air calibration and the mother fucker strips, not just the sensor but the bung i had to tig weld into the exhaust while it was on the car.

fucking bosch, when i put the sensor in like a week ago i was able to tread it in by hand and then i just snugged it up with a wrench.
cant trust those fucking germans for nothing, should have went with a ngk or a JAW

[SQ is the SQUAD]

that sometimes happens is its not tight enough, it vibrates out/strips the sensor. the good thing is that autozone/advance auto carries the replacement bosch sensors

[bigdaddyvtec]

so anyway finally got the car to run on the megasquirt and i get the timing right and everything and the fucking wideband is reading bullshit numbers.
i go to take it out to do a free air calibration and the mother fucker strips, not just the sensor but the bung i had to tig weld into the exhaust while it was on the car.

fucking bosch, when i put the sensor in like a week ago i was able to tread it in by hand and then i just snugged it up with a wrench.
cant trust those fucking germans for nothing, should have went with a ngk or a JAW

The problem isn't the Germans... its you're a moron...lol.the ngk and jaws are both garbage. But at the end of the day if you fail at r and r ing the sensor its really your fault anyways.

[t_cel_t]

you mean buy a new sensor and then return the old one?

[d112crzy]

The Lc-1's are huge stinking piles of shit. 

PLX FOR LIFES

[t_cel_t]

ok so got a new sensor and after reading a bunch of shit about grounding issues ect. i wired the controller directly to the battery.
i was able to calibrate it just fine and it was heating up just fine.
go to hook it into megasquirt and it actually works for about a minute then starts blinking 2x sec again.
is the controller fucked up?

[Joseph Davis]

Is the charging system working?

[t_cel_t]

yes, car is completely stock wiring as well
its got to be the controller, also during calibration i checked the current draw and its right around 1.5 amps. also the signal wire(0-5v) is reading 5 volts all the time. it never varies even if the car is running.

[Eville140]

When you got the new sensor did you do a heater calibration?  You have to ru. The lc1 for about 10 seconds with no sensor hooked to it. Then hook the sensor up and power it up again.
I guess mine sensed my earlier rant and the sensor took a shit,  was showing pump circuit someshit.  Only thing that fixed It was a new sensor. This is the third sensor (1st came with it, 2nd oreillys, new one under warranty)

[t_cel_t]

yes i did the reset of the controller with no sensor, then the calibration, then the bullshit begins

[HiProfile]

AEMs are trash...

i like my lc1 other then i need to reprogram it for a 0-5 volt output rather then the gay 1-2 volt it comes with stock

Wat? Mine had a 0-1 and 0-5 between two outputs. Did they change it?

So far mine has been fine. However I know how to wire shit up, and don't plut it into the corroded lighter plug while pumping Bone Thugs through my deck on the same circuit.




If you are pissed with it and won't benifit from a serial connection, TechEdge/wb02 stuff works well and has tons of options/inputs. But then again you have to build it yourself, and people who can't cope with an lc1 usually can't solder resistors either.

[snm95ls]

...i like my lc1 other then i need to reprogram it for a 0-5 volt output rather then the gay 1-2 volt it comes with stock

OMG, you have to hook it up to your computer and open up LM Programmer, press a few keys, then shut it down for about 20 seconds before you start the controller back up.

So much work involved.

 

[Joseph Davis]

You don't have to power cycle the LC-1 to reprogram it's analog outputs, so knock a half minute off of that huge expenditure of your day.

[t_cel_t]

You don't have to power cycle the LC-1 to reprogram it's analog outputs, so knock a half minute off of that huge expenditure of your day.

you have to power down when updating the firmware

so i got another complete lc1, wired it up and it worked for a while. now its doing this bullshit where it is reading totally rich all the time. but no error codes.

fuck innovate