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Author Topic: UI's 703hp Purple beast - She is injured  (Read 325745 times)

Urban Indian

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Going to take the car to the track, car doesn't stumble in boost, or at least haven't noticed, maybe because I am already to the floor with throttle. I will bring some tools to see what is what down at andys.  I will ground a couple more things with some 8 ga
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dvst8r

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Going to take the car to the track, car doesn't stumble in boost, or at least haven't noticed, maybe because I am already to the floor with throttle. I will bring some tools to see what is what down at andys.  I will ground a couple more things with some 8 ga

I have a hunch, I may be wrong in this, but my hunch is that once the fpr is being fed boost it is working properly, OR the injectors need that extra pressure to work properly. Two things to try:

- Raise the base pressure.
-Try a Stock (yes I know it will be some work to get it to mate to your return line) or a KNOWN working fpr

I don't think you need to ground more things, it is the way / order that they are grounded that is critical.
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There are two kinds of people: Sheep and sharks. Sharks are winners and they don'#039#039t look back '#039#039cause they don'#039#039t have necks. Necks are for sheep.

Passenger

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POS Indian

+2

Seriously dude, ground the battery to the block, directly. Don't even bother posting back here until you have done this.
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Urban Indian

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It is bolted to the long block.


same Local as stock wiring.

OR the injectors need that extra pressure to work properly. Two things to try:


did the same thing with dsm 450's
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dvst8r

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It is bolted to the long block.


same Local as stock wiring.

OR the injectors need that extra pressure to work properly. Two things to try:


did the same thing with dsm 450's

At this point trying it is all you have.

Maybe the FPR is fucking up at low pressure?

Or maybe it starts to work with boost?
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Urban Indian

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car ran like a bag of ass tonight at the track, slow as fuck

12.73@110mph

seems its wayy too rich in 1st and 2nd but in 3rd and 4th it starts to pick up afr at top end is 11.2

I tried to lean it out and smooth the map but ended up only fucking with the top end creating a 12.2 -13.2 condition at top end( went from rich on the gauge meaning it said zero) to 11.5-12.2 then i saw 13.2 and before i could lift the pedal it started to break up.


The only issue I have with bailing on these injectors/fjo box is that what happens when I get rid of them and the issue is still there. Driveability with this setup is pretty much zilch so I guess it cant be much worse.





SO if I were to run the ID1000's can they be ran with just 2 walbro intakes on the -8 line? or is a bosche inline needed aswell.
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bigdaddyvtec

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you fail at reading comprehension son
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dvst8r

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Does it stumble at part throttle in boost?

What did the FP look like throughout the run?

Did you try more base pressure?
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Urban Indian

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Apparently I my car and I really suck at autoX, I came in dead last behind the stock v6 firebird


Going to check that FPR this weekend when I get some time.






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Joseph Davis

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At least you went faster than Sean in that faggot RSX Type-S.

Robb

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BUmp for updates. 


FAKLAD.
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Urban Indian

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have a bunch to do this weekend. pull apart FPR. Change main relay,
 hook up to a friends work soltus( the gayer version of a motus_)
 to check out the TPS by degrees/percentages or some shit and see if maybe there is a dead spot.


GO to my friend Brads house and give his dad a case of beer to make me a sheet metal air scoop of ballerness.


AND go to the drag strip to beat on it some more for fun.
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danz

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when are you going to come down to mission.... :?:
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Lowerit

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Turn down the boost for autocross.

Get a rear bar.
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dvst8r

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Turn down the boost for autocross.

Get a rear bar.

He needs to fix drivability before worrying about doing anything.

On a side note I hear that ID2000's are going to become available shortly.
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Urban Indian

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Ok went for a ripper tonight and in mid 3rd it just went POP looked at wideband, saw 14.

Car doesnt seem hurt, it did it the other day at the track but I thought maybe something like it didnt like at the top of 4th in the heat?
But I pulled apart the FPR, it looks nice and clean, only concern is that inside where the spring area is. There is grooves into the housing where the spring is sitting.
They are at least a couple thou deep. I found another gauge I will throw on and see fuel pressures, might just attach a barb, put some re-enforced hose from my fuel fail
into my car and see what it does for pressures.
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dvst8r

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Ok went for a ripper tonight and in mid 3rd it just went POP looked at wideband, saw 14.

In boost or vac?
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Urban Indian

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mid third




I was scared i blew the poor girl up. Changing main relay today, & getting new relays for my fuel pumps
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dvst8r

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mid third...

So is mid third in boost or vacuum?
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Urban Indian

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Full boost mid third. U am going to borrow wtm main relay, change the relays I have for my fuel pumps. Attach that big hose to go from fpr to dash.
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ratcityrex

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might just attach a barb, put some re-enforced hose from my fuel fail into my car and see what it does for pressures.

Just duct tape the gauge to the windsheild.
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New setup is old bottom end with a hype r head with gsr cams. built lsv with hx35 @ 26psi on pump gas
LEED tuned! 434hp/329tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pbDXZxZdZs
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html

Old Setup B18a1 296hp/289tq LEED Tuned 20psi on pump! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yj-Z90j4W4   
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,205.msg2437.html#msg2437

Urban Indian

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Weird eh? Spring riding on the side of the fpr?










*EDIT*



I pulled apart the main relay. and there is some weird brown gunk shit all over on the board soughter board.
It smells like the fucking ecu I fried, I will post pictures of it tonight when I get back from class. Also changing plugs because Josh thinks
that it might be an issue. I will post the video of my shit run when i find my upload board for my camera. Car works really well into the burnout then all of
the sudden it just cuts out and instantly no more power. Interesting indeed
« Last Edit: July 23, 2009, 10:28:23 PM by Urban Indian »
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Urban Indian

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Re: Urban Indians Re-Rebuild on the HX-52/2.0L GSR -Main relay issue?
« Reply #352 on: July 24, 2009, 03:45:55 AM »

Ok so my friends dad is a sheetmetalist by trade and made me this in about 10 minutes of actual work.

Took 3 prototypes but we got it done.


pics are just of it alone, non yet of it installed. hopefully tomorrow after I change my main relay and plugs.










main relay pics. see that brown gunky shit? Meaning bad relay perhaps?

mine is 0132







Apparently clean one the 0159





Fuel pump relay & ground before i knew what a ground was ground.
I am going to just piggyback that 1ga awg wire for my fuel pump ground. Should be good, no need to send another bunch of cables to the front of the car.



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dueyx99

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that brown shit on the board is flux for the solder joints, an easy fix for a main relay on the fritz is to apply heat to all solder joints and allow them to reflow, sometimes fixes, sometimes doesn't
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Robb

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that brown shit on the board is flux for the solder joints, an easy fix for a main relay on the fritz is to apply heat to all solder joints and allow them to reflow, sometimes fixes, sometimes doesn't

Where the fuck is your noob post faggot?
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blowoff valves are for pussies.

ApexSilver06MR

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looks like some fat ass power cable there Levi!
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Joseph Davis

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that brown shit on the board is flux for the solder joints, an easy fix for a main relay on the fritz is to apply heat to all solder joints and allow them to reflow, sometimes fixes, sometimes doesn't

Where the fuck is your noob post faggot?

Correct, Rob, he's n00b postless.  And wrong.  The only main relays I've seen that reflowing didn't fix permanently were EDs and DAs.

Urban Indian

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I cant use copper spray as a grounding material?



Is this true because I use that shit on everything
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silver

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how much fuel was in your tank ? maybe your fuel pump is starving (runing dry) due to G-force...!
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turbob16hatch

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that brown shit on the board is flux for the solder joints, an easy fix for a main relay on the fritz is to apply heat to all solder joints and allow them to reflow, sometimes fixes, sometimes doesn't

Where the fuck is your noob post faggot?

Correct, Rob, he's n00b postless.  And wrong.  The only main relays I've seen that reflowing didn't fix permanently were EDs and DAs.

You said the same thing he did, so it is safe to say that it may or may not work on your car. So how was he wrong?  :?:
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