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[crxvtec91]

trying to get some more done here soon. but jew funds and jew deals are running low at the moment...

I need some motivation and free time to get my crx done...

[92CXyD]

trying to get some more done here soon. but jew funds and jew deals are running low at the moment...

I need some motivation and free time to get my crx done...

And funds for my CRX project 

[turbohf]

so yeah, little mishap when putting the EP3 5speed back together, it got stuck in a couple gears. popped the case right quick and slapped it back together. shifts perfect. threw my new bracket on, skipped the paint, OEM is fine.
 
   
then...


i marked my territory, MINE BITCHEZ.    marked my name next to the serial/VIN tags also and got a couple pics on a couple different angles. gotta dig around, i have some stamps/punches somewhere too.


 

[crxvtec91]

Fuck yea!

[turbohf]

so today. start working on saving 300-800bucks...


WIRE HARNESS'
 
   
supplies:



not to mention all the info i have collected to do this shit.

tools:


 
 

MANY engine harness are in this box lol. or whats left of them over the years of picking threw, and adding more. about to add that stock EK harness to it also.


working on identifying all the plugs of the engine harness. think i have most of them identified. still need my engine and probably put it in the car before i get much further on that......


so on to the dash harness



ok, so not much on building it. took a while, cuz the info i have is kinda scattered. the pinout i have is complete bullshit.most the pins just say "PGMFI" and nothing else. or the shit i find is for a 96-98, or jsut EG/DC. and the service manual i have is for a fuckin  96-98  my car is a 99.

hope its built right. im sure you will notice there are no relays. doesnt look like i need any? relays are for O2's and shit. i wont be running them. going to be running my wideband into AEM. not sure if i need something for the fuel pump? or if its functioning is separate from all this?
oh yeah, also missing E-plug. so gonna change a little lol.

so thats as far as i got.


Chase/Ry/Wirewrox engine harness is like 400-600bucks
Sparks/Ry/HR/HASport/whatever conversion harness is 260-350bucks


 

[crxvtec91]

I hate wiring.. This does remind me of when I made my own obd0 to 1 jumper before you could buy one....

[turbohf]

I hate wiring.. This does remind me of when I made my own obd0 to 1 jumper before you could buy one....

and i still made them...

everyone says they hate wiring. i feel very capable of doing it, dont really care to do it. but i find it rewarding to do. maybe its cuz of my attention span. it takes me a while, but i like to take my time, make sure its right, make things the way i want, etc.

[crxvtec91]

I hate wiring.. This does remind me of when I made my own obd0 to 1 jumper before you could buy one....

and i still made them...

everyone says they hate wiring. i feel very capable of doing it, dont really care to do it. but i find it rewarding to do. maybe its cuz of my attention span. it takes me a while, but i like to take my time, make sure its right, make things the way i want, etc.

I can do it to, just perfer NOT TO!

[turbohf]

for that kinda money, ill do it.

[turbohf]

so buddy i have been helping with his projects had this throttle body that was just a bitch and would stick all the time. so i bought a new one. told him if he is throwing it away, i need it.

so he hooks me up. fucker sticks bad lol. throttle rotor is cut up. and its missing everything. sensors, even the idle screw.

then in my never ending picking shit up for deals. i got a complete Y7 intake manifold/tb/wire harness for free from a tech at work that just did a swap. so i got my TPS another MAP, and misc shit. oh and another wire harness to cut up lol.




also cleaned up my PRB intake manifold (thats RSX Type S). yup thats a B-series throttle body mounted to a K-series intake. 3/4 bolts. might see if i can get the other spot welded and tapped. but think it will work fine.
i pulled the nipples from it. and epoxied them up. along with the IACV port in the PRB manifold.

oh shit. forgot about the TB. lol. its like a 68mm (forgot to double check). i swapped throttle rotors to a B18C1 that i had. took a little filing/trimming. and cleaning up of the TB. got it to where it doesnt stick. should work just fine. still need to find a B18C1 throttle cable bracket. and i think i have a GSR cable, think this setup will work? lol not much info out there on it.


 

[turbohf]

so i just had an idea...



and its a shit ass picture cuz i bought a raw/clear anodized billet fuel rail and it doesnt picture for shit on a OEM manifold lol..


PS: I NEED A REALHOMEMADETURBO.COM  sticker to put on there!... anyone make some up yet?

[crxvtec91]

Once again I hate you if you ever make it to a NE meet I will buy you a beer or some moon shine

[turbohf]

Once again I hate you if you ever make it to a NE meet I will buy you a beer or some moon shine

mmm, friends keep talking about apple pie moonshine.
 
 
so i had to watch an AEM EMS box go for way too cheap, but just outside my funds. gotta pay rent, pay some firends back what i owe them... if i tapped out my bank, and funds i have been saving for people that are flaking on me, i would have came too close to the last bid. FUCK. was jew enough for this build too. sure there will be another. plus there is way more stuff i need to buy before an ECU.

 
 

[turbohf]

NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT 







big bad 2.4 liter.... figured the Galant would be the first car to be getting a 2.4 actually lol, maybe next time.

i started tearing it down. removing what there is actually left on it. like water pump housing, brackets, sensors, etc then realized i should have had him hit the crank pulley with the air gun to loosen it... ehh,  ill have to barrow a crank pulley tool from someone before i get too much further on it


btw. cost on this one was $220 + a D-series intermediate shaft. 

[turbohf]

this is RHMT 


and thats how we take care of things. 
 
 

you can see the chain tensioner on the left at full extension (shiny shaft).


 

thats as far as i got. didnt feel like, nor am i sure i even need to go any further. if it bent all the valves, im sure thats why it was pulled. pistons are all dry, but carbon'ed up. so i dont think it was pushing oil. hone on the walls looks nice. suppose to only hae 60K miles on it.

thinking of just working over the head, and throwing it all back together?!?!

[crxvtec91]

Once again I hate you, well played

[turbohf]

Once again I hate you, well played

lol, thank you?



its pretty obvious that the valves have contacted the pistons? (its on all 4 pistons, all 8 intake valves) i pulled one out at random, and it really looks straight?

so my question is:  would you run them? are they even safe? i would plan on lapping them in, and if it didnt have full contact they are junk. i have another head i have taken apart. one valve is obviously bent (like 45*) the rest look straight (tossed a rod on 1 hole). i might swap those valves in, and just buy 1 new one from honda?!?! shit.... idk what i wanna do here.

[HiProfile]

Wow, I feel special - I actually got a better deal than you. I only paid $150 for my k24, and it was complete inc. the harness. Nice pulley tool though, I used a nut from fastenall hollowed out more and welded to angle iron. The tee is a great idea, and I'm guessing that's a reducer as the hex portion.

From what I've seen, usually the tensioner goes, cam sensors throw codes, then it jumps. RUns like shit if the valves aren't hitting, wont' start/run the instant it jumps enough to make contact.


Valves that have made contact are always a liability. Eventually the valve flexing a fraction of a inch each time it hits the seat can weaken it. If it's an ebay turbo and a cheap unbuilt longblock with a lower redline, go for it. Otherwise it's better to replace.

[turbohf]

yeah he started at like $400 or something on this motor last year... ill be on the look out for a spare, hopefully its more jew.
yeah its a threaded reducer. not 100% my idea tho. found something similar online, modified for my liking.

all the ones that we have gotten in at work will "stretch" start throwing codes and/or running shitty to the point they come in and say WTF? then we replace tensioner, chain, and guides as the tech sees fit.
my dumb ass forgot to check the timing before removing everything, but its pretty obvious it jumped.

yeah, thats what i think killed the 9500rpm B16A2. made contact. but sealed up. ran perfect (392whp) but eventually showed it was wounded.

the pretty solid plan:
GT35R or if that falls threw a 6262
7500rpms
400hp/350ft
stock rods (unless someone comes off some TSX rods for 100bucks, then 8k sometimes)
stock CRV pistons
stock CRV head
vTaK all the time
K20A2 cams
stock oil pump
K20A2 valve springs/seats

[turbohf]

ok. so i got a second wind on this motor thing. valves are not a big deal. was going to pull them out anyway.

actually...

i bought a tool aready to do it lol. scored this little fucker on ebay for like 53bucks. yeah i know they are only like 79new, im a jew... 

so anyway i ripped this fucker apart...

wait.. should be noted if you havent done this before

when bolting this to a stand, remember that the bottom part of the block needs to come off you get the crank out! lol.


bottom part of the block, or girdle. balance shafts/oil pump, stamped steel pan...


hole mess of shit.


all oilly and carboned up like a mofo. oil rings are super sticky. glad a sacked up and took it apart. still not sure if im jew and want to clean and throw the rings back on, or buy a new set. i WONT be honing the motor. cylinders look minty fresh (2 different people say it has 60k on it)

speaking of minty fresh...

mains look great. rods look plenty fine. my cheap ass WILL be reusing both of these 


block all bare and nasty.


i loaded all this shit in the back of the GVR4 and will be bringing it to work to clean. probably start putting it back together tomorrow lol.


 

[turbohf]

another shot of my tool.... 



you can see i ground on it, and its still a tight fit. good tho, doesnt give it a chance to fall out or move around.

lol. anyway. didnt give it a try on a B or D pulley. but should work on those too. but i have used a chain wrench on those for years.

[turbohf]

so i ordered rings, gasket set, chain, tensioner, and a guide i probably wont use. hopefully all here before the end of the week...

found this just laying around 

needs cleaned and resurfaced. dug it out to verify part number and that it was in usable condition. both look good.



all washed up.... but hopefully this deal for some TSX rods goes threw. ill feel better


tote full of clean K24A1.

pics looks extra shitty tonight?

anyway, threw here back on the stand.

get setup to work on. oh and i did oil the cylinders asap. obviously that parts washer rips all the oil of of it and leaves it dry, likes to rust instantly... probably doesnt help i pressure washed it right after lol.
nice and clean tho 


 

[crxvtec91]

Flat rate that motor rhmt style!

[turbohf]

so thats PR4 and PPA CRV rods.... kinda makes me want something a little stronger... found some TSX rods for $150... might need to pick those up....?

[turbohf]

[turbohf]

updates....


ok. poor ass update lol. but all i got pics of.
 
 
i bought a bunch of other shit, its not here, or didnt take pics of it. i have full valvetrain replacements on the way, new stronger rods, cams. we stock the timing chain and tensioner im gonna use at work, so i just need to pay for them. i did receive my full gasket set, and new NPR rings.

valvetrain probably wont be here till next weekend. ill have the rods in a couple days, maybe ill put the bottom together later in the week.


still no sale on this 6speed.... needs to leave so i can buy a turbo...


 

[ratcityrex]

So whats the eta of having this thing on the road?

[turbohf]

So whats the eta of having this thing on the road?

well. idk. i hope to have this running by early spring. tuned before RHMT NW 13.... in reality, idk. like 4k more shit to buy lol.

[crxvtec91]

Tsx rod looks beefier, $150 is not a bad price.

[turbohf]

Tsx rod looks beefier, $150 is not a bad price.

yeah, but im still a jew. but i do feel a little better about running the TSX rods over the CRV ones. hope they fit now