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[PhilStubbs]

Here is the start of my crx build thread.

Here is the car. 90-91 crx dx i picked up from SDRAWCAB/Rhino for $300



broke ass d15



Free f23.



no pics of the H22 tranny i got for tuning a couple cars.

A friend sold his accord 6 months ago, then found it in the junk yard a week ago. tells me about a bunch of new parts on it that he put on before selling it. so i went yesterday and got a new flywheel, clutch, arp flywheel bolts, starter and shifter, plus some other crx things i needed for $70. then i get a call as im leaving that puts $50 back in my pocket for playing with an accord and a laptop for a few min.

todays progress was puling the old d15 out





im a little short on cash right now so buying parts is sort of on hold, at least till friday. during the week im going to work on painting it since i have everything to do it already. more pics to come as the days go

[PhilStubbs]

Today's progress. Being a little short on money has me doing some painting for now since i already have the stuff.

Before:



After:

[PhilStubbs]

Figured this thread was due for an update. Not much visual progress, but lots has been done. Rear disc swap is done, 2/3 mounts, shifter mounted and cables routed. I really like the shifter. Very crisp and short. The previous owner of the shifter rambled on about some prelude shifter, modded etc. don't know but I like it. Anyway






The mounts are ugly as shit right now. I'll get pics once they look as nice as they work.

[crxvtec91]

Looking good, whats the future plans for the motor?

[PhilStubbs]

I have done lots with boost and I always will have a boosted car. This one is to learn N/A. It has always been kind of a black art or voodoo to me. Once the swap is done and all the bugs are sorted, it will come out for k20 pistons, unknown rods(haven't decided), f22a6 head, a cam of some sort and I'll make my own intake manifold. My goal is mid-low 12's in the 1/4, but I may push it farther. It is also intended to just be a fun street car. My EF has no title so I only drive it at the track. I need something I can rip on when I have a bad day or take out to hurt the feelings of the local ricers.

A lot of the fun of playing with cars has been lost by having a track only car. If I want to play, I have to plan at least a day in advance. The track is 2 hours away. I have to load the car on the trailer, pack all of my tools and shit the night before. Then spend $100 driving there and back. Even if I could drive the car there legally, I couldn't push it for the fear of it breaking and leaving me stuck 2 hours from home.

With the crx, I could just throw the slicks in the car and head out on a whim and spend $20 in gas.

[crxvtec91]

I have a f23 and a a6 head just laying around. Thinking of some k20a2 rods and pistons with a set of arp's and plenty of boost

[PhilStubbs]

DO IT!! i love all single cams. thats why its getting an F rather than an H.

[crxvtec91]

DO IT!! i love all single cams. thats why its getting an F rather than an H.

Crx needs a few things then some 4dr love. I wonder if I could get both to were I want by rhmt 2013 ne meet?

[Phate]

Once the swap is done and all the bugs are sorted, it will come out for k20 pistons, unknown rods(haven't decided), f22a6 head, a cam of some sort and I'll make my own intake manifold.

Honestly in stock form the F23A1 head outflows the F22Ax.  F22A's have pretty shitty exhaust ports (in stock form), the real advantage there is that as far as I know they don't have a water jacket around the exhaust ports, so you can open them up a whole lot more.  Another advantage is that you can put a dual runner intake mani on them (both the F22A6 and H23A1 intake's fit).

But yeah, unless you are gonna do port work, just keep the F23 head on the motor.

The F22B1 and B2 heads are pretty lousy though.

[PhilStubbs]

Yea, the f23 head will be staying for now, then get crazy on the non vtec head later.

[crxvtec91]

Once the swap is done and all the bugs are sorted, it will come out for k20 pistons, unknown rods(haven't decided), f22a6 head, a cam of some sort and I'll make my own intake manifold.

Honestly in stock form the F23A1 head outflows the F22Ax.  F22A's have pretty shitty exhaust ports (in stock form), the real advantage there is that as far as I know they don't have a water jacket around the exhaust ports, so you can open them up a whole lot more.  Another advantage is that you can put a dual runner intake mani on them (both the F22A6 and H23A1 intake's fit).

But yeah, unless you are gonna do port work, just keep the F23 head on the motor.

The F22B1 and B2 heads are pretty lousy though.

I always heard the opposite of this, that f22a's flow a lot more but the cam makes it lack luster.

[PhilStubbs]

I have heard pretty much the same. Either way, 100% stock the f23 is better, but the F22a6 has more potential is my understanding

[turbohf]

soooo....this is a NA build in the FI section? 


looks...well shitty so far lol, but progress is being made. you clean up the inside/outside of teh car yet?

[HiProfile]

I think a lot of the skewed info is because the F23 has the word "VTEC" on the valve cover. The head flows well, but the camshaft sucks balls. I presume it's closer in lift/duration to e-vtec than anything - low lift and duration won't make much power on any head. Most people have access to the F22A head, and can get a Bisi or Delta cam much easier, which is why it's modded by more people. The F22A cars are also a lot cheaper and lighter, making them more enticing.


Here's an interesting pic I found while researching not long ago:




edit: clarified some shit, fixed pic

[PhilStubbs]

soooo....this is a NA build in the FI section? 


looks...well shitty so far lol, but progress is being made. you clean up the inside/outside of teh car yet?

Well, the description of the section says
"Forced Induction
Custom FI Setup Questions and Build Threads." No mention of build threads anywhere else on the forum.


I haven't done much cosmetically yet. With my roommate situation not stable, I haven't had any money to get the windshield and 1/4 glass pulled. There is some rust around the windshield and the rubber around the 1/4 glass has shrunk. I would rather pull it all and paint the car rather than deal with taping up stuff that will come out eventually anyway.

[Phate]

Here's an interesting pic I found while researching not long ago:




edit: clarified some shit, fixed pic

Take a wild guess who compiled that info...

Here it is, slightly bigger and clearer, that looks like it was saved and uploaded and compressed a couple times:


Anyways, if you aren't touching the ports beyond cleaning up casting flaws, it seems like F23A head plus cam that doesn't suck balls is the way to go.

[HiProfile]

The F23A cam only has 4 more lobes to regrind (20 vs 16), so I'd guess Delta would do it under $130. If I was doing it, I'd go 260* or a step lower for primary intake, 272 or 282 for the vtec secondary lobes, and either 260 or 272 for exhaust. I'd go with the lesser duration if it was mostly a street motor.

From what I've seen, a basic 272 Delta with pull 150-160whp with just I/H/E vs a stock I/H/E H22 that will do ~165whp. A 12:1 F22A6/F23 combo with a Delta 272 will do near 200whp, so a better head and bigger vtec lobes should push an high-CR F23 over 200whp.

[PhilStubbs]

Delta told me $95 for a 272

[HiProfile]

Thats better than I thought. I recall people saying that for a 16-lobe f22 cam, not a 20-lobe cam.

[PhilStubbs]

Maybe they misunderstood, but I did my best to let them know it was vtec

[crxvtec91]

Damn thats a steal! I think im going to go 282 or bigger if they dare make it 

[PhilStubbs]

I have a feeling 272 is as big as they go on the F. That was the impression I got in the email

[crxvtec91]

I have a feeling 272 is as big as they go on the F. That was the impression I got in the email

I was tossing around the idea of a colt tri flow but its a bit more.

[HiProfile]

My impression was the person handling email can't tell the difference between a camshaft up his ass and a hotrex camping trip surprise. If you call them, you'll get much better info.

[PhilStubbs]

I really wish I had some pics to post. Been working on this thing pretty hardcore, but nothing looks different. Engine mounts are structurally done, but need some cosmetic work. I want these mounts to look like I bought them. Also boxed in the frame where I had to cut for room and the rear crossmember. Only a few minor things left to fire it off the first time. The fuel inlet on the rail is in a retarded place. Haven't decided how ill handle that. Probably switch to -an fittings and braided hose. I have plenty laying around. Also need to dremil the injector plugs or swap in some obd1 injectors. I only get about an hour or 2 at the most each weeknight to work on it.

[HiProfile]

I suggest 2 options:




A) Banjo to barb fittings.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-banjo-adaptor-9mm-Barb-M12-12-1mm-15-32-inch-/251124199348?hash=item3a782b2fb4&item=251124199348&pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr

Specifically that auction is not the best since it's in Hong Kong, but you get the idea. 2 of those and some high-pressure hose. Note - a similar fitting will be found on many non-Hondas' power steering lines. You can also try the banjo to AN if you get one with a long enough nipple. FYI the banjo will be a 12mm hole.

long nipple AN-Banjo:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-3-STRAIGHT-7-16-BANJO-ADAPTER-/330301163763?hash=item4ce77bc8f3&item=330301163763&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr




B) Drivers-side exit H22 fuel rail flipped left to right.

The FPR may angle the wrong way, but the offset between the injector's centerline and the 3 bolts' centerline is identical besides the F23 bolts on the top instead of the bottom. For the 2 outer studs you'll have to get some threaded rod and make your own, since the spacing is wider by 1/2" each side. I was going that route until I remembered the CBR banjo fittings I had.

[ratcityrex]

speedway motors has a bunch of differant banjo fittings for cheap and good quality and service to boot.

[PhilStubbs]

I have a bunch of -an hoses with 90° fittings. I'll probably tap the rail where the banjo fitting is now with npt, put a npt-an fitting in there. I also have a few stock hoses. They all have a lot of hard line off the banjo part. Could just cut that and use with some hose. Just trying to decide how much work I want to put into it.

[PhilStubbs]

Ok, been a long ass time since I touched this car. Had some intake clearance issues I wasn't sure how to handle, I got discouraged, worked on other shit but now I'm back on it. I'm broke as shit right now, but luckily there is tons of work I can do without spending any money and I have some time to do it.

 Pics of today's progress.

Shitty tps-firewall clearance along with fuel filter and heater hose shit.





1" thick aluminum plate. Acts as a spacer and an adaptor so I can run a different F plenum. One with a standard IACV.



I didn't get any pics, but that spacer puts the tps and IACV into that nook at the top of the firewall and also fixes the clearance with the TB, fuel filter and heater hose valve.

[crxvtec91]

Homemade spacer=WIN!