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[ohisofly]

Started mocking up the intercooler piping





Roughly how the rad will sit





You can see there's no room for the vw rad



For the line going to the wastegate, should I drill a hole and put a fitting here on the turbo? From what I understand there are certain benefits depending on where you tap into the pressure side between the turbo and the throttle body but I can't imagine I'm going to make enough power for it to matter



Also from what I understand the top line on the bov will go to the intake manifold and I can put a t on the wastegate line that will go to the bottom line on the bov; can anyone confirm this?

[turbohf]

bottom one on the wastegate, i think the top on the bov. and i put then both to the intake manifold.

[ohisofly]

Thanks for the info.

Dumb question but since I assume I just put a cap on one of the inlet sides? (green arrow)

[dvst8r]

Correct

[HiProfile]

Cap the outlet if you need ultimate pressure.

The wastegate's bottom port will go to either the turbo or the manifold. A manifold reference will lead to more consistent boost, a turbo reference will lead to consistent pressure ratio numbers - only good if you're near maxing out your turbo. The BOV needs to see boost & vacuum, so it needs to go to the manifold. You could tee into the WG line, but it's best to use a seperate vac manifold for bov/wg/gauge.





Everything else looks good so far. I'd recommend a lot of bracing, if not already done, to take the turbo's weight off of the china header.

[ohisofly]

Thanks for the info guys. Currently there is no bracing & everything is pretty solid, without bracing am I asking to crack something?

This is how the engine was when I bought it, an obd1 b18a1



This is how the coolant lines were ran



I had to swap my intake manifold due to using a different throttle body, and the new intake manifold is missing the coolant port shown with the red X. I currently have the coolant line hooked up to the fast idle valve as shown, but now I have an extra coolant port as shown by the arrow.



What's the best option here? Using the old intake manifold is not an option since the fast idle valve stuck out and hit the new throttle body (needed different throttle body for the obd1 style map sensor). Back when I bought my car it had the obd0 intake manifold on there but I don't remember how the coolant lines were routed.

[ohisofly]

This is what I ended up doing with the extra coolant line



For the bov would I be able to simply put the bottom hose like this since it just needs to see boost? Only reason I'm not sure is because it would be between the past the bov. The top line will go where the pcv hose was on the intake manifold

[ohisofly]

Over the weekend I got a few things done

- nxs boost controller, I had to get different fittings for the vacuum lines since the inside diameter was way smaller than the 1/4" fittings I'm using everywhere else (I also read somewhere not to use anything smaller than that). I also lost the ball somehow so I ordered a ceramic one
- got new gates fuel pressure hoses for the line going to the fpr and for the return line
- made a bracket for the fpr since the supplied bracket wasn't going to work that well
- got the basemap setup in crome pro, theoretically it's done other than making some final adjustments for fuel and then hopefully I'll be able to start the car without too many issues
- made a diy bead roller and used that where applicable, the bov section will be welded
- used carbide bits to clean up the inside of the manifold. The collector looks pretty bad inside even after cleaning it up but we'll see how it does 

Main things I still need to do

- run oil lines
- tap a pan for the drain line
- figure out intercooler piping between the turbo and the intercooler (a few things will need cut)
- figure out the filter setup for the turbo inlet
- hook up & mount fpr
- weld mounts for radiator and intercooler
- try to get neptune tunerview 2 working (it was a nightmare the last time I messed with it)
- start it up
- put bunch of parts back on the car since it's been a parts car for the last year
- learn how to street tune

Any recommendations on what heat range spark plugs to start with? I'm also not really sure what to aim for as far as fuel pressure while it comes time to start it up, I know it'll need turned down a good bit. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow & post manifold pics in the fabrication thread

[ohisofly]

The manifold is done & was put on a belt sander to smooth everything out that got warped from welding. The collector looks horrible so hopefully I don't have any boost creep issues









Made these



Bracket that came with fpr didn't fit so made this



Worked on this thing a good bit this weekend, it has about 60 miles on it right now. Once it's broken in he's going for 800 something around 44 psi iirc. It's a 6766 with a half filled block, blah blah you get the point







This weekend I'm hopefully going to try starting the crx, I ordered a new steering rack and some other stuff I need to finally get it on the road. If everything goes as planned then in a month or so I'll be ready to start street tuning

[crxvtec91]

800hp evo, but the crx still looks better!

[ohisofly]

800hp evo, but the crx still looks better!

Idk if I'd say that, but it'll definitely be a sleeper!

[ohisofly]

The sandwich plate doesn't fit very well, I had to angle it between these sensors because with the oil line pointed straight up it hit the coolant pipe, causing it to leak.



I also installed a T fitting right there which is for my oil pressure gauge, I don't have any pictures but will get some next weekend.

For the feed line should I try running no oil restrictor and see how it goes? I have an oil restrictor laying around (.5mm iirc) but the threads appear to be the AN style while my oil feed line has a pipe thread "flare" style. I found a fitting at lowes that will fit right in between the turbo and the feed line so I figure it might be worth a shot, but I'm seeing a lot of mixed opinions on oil restrictors for journal bearing turbos.

[ratcityrex]

What size is your line? And what brand turbo are you using?

[ohisofly]

What size is your line? And what brand turbo are you using?

The line is -4AN from what I understand -->http://www.ebay.com/itm/380387771694?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The turbo is a garrett and here are the specs

Turbocharger is Garrett model TA34
Compressor Stage
A/R 0.60
Trim 60
Wheel Dia 75.0mm
Wheel Type BCCW4

Turbine Stage
A/R 0.63
Trim 76
Wheel Dia 65.0mm
Wheel Type T3HF

The compressor map is good for about 530hp.
Turbocharger was produced in December of 2003 at our Mexicali Mexico plant.

[ratcityrex]

I would run a restrictor.

[ohisofly]

I would run a restrictor.

Will do, I found a 1.5mm restrictor I forgot about and the threads matched right up with the line

Finally got the fpr mounted



Jb weld action (there was another drain on this pan for a normal hose but I'm going to cap that off)

[ratcityrex]

was something wrong with the stock fpr? Stock fpr is good for a good bit of power.

[ohisofly]

was something wrong with the stock fpr? Stock fpr is good for a good bit of power.

There was nothing wrong with it, but HiProfile recommended that I get a fpr to have more stable fuel pressures with his 900cc injectors. It does seem pretty idiotic considering this is only going to make 300hp, but I figured it's an investment since I plan on this making at least double that down the road

Running those oil lines was the only significant thing I had left to do with the engine so hopefully this thing will be running soon

[ohisofly]

New dx rack from eBay since my rack got donated to a civic wagon  Also got some moog outer tie rods for this thing. My energy bushings also got donated to the wagon so I bought prothane bushings for the rack.



Got the fpr hooked up



Other than that I put the oil pan back on and put the rear upper control arms back in (this thing has been a parts car lately). The only "big" projects left are getting the tunerview 2 to work and finish retro fitting it in the cluster, along with buying a small battery and relocating it in the lock box.

[ohisofly]

So I just got done trying to start this thing



It was thrown together quick and this wire that the arrow points to wasn't hooked up



When I went to start the car the cluster lights came on, and then when I went to start it I heard the fuel pump come on but then there was just a "pop" noise and all cluster lights went out. I tried to turn the key again and nothing happened at all.

Once we realized that this wire wasn't hooked up we tried it with it connected, but still nothing. So I figured we popped a fuse or something, checked all the fuses and everything is good. Everything in that black fusebox in the above pic is getting power so I'm thinking the ecu might be toast, but I didn't really look into that much since it was 1am when this happened. I'll be trying to diagnose this tomorrow so any input would be great.

[DSharp]

Check battery cables.  I've seen a bad connection act similar to what you described.  I don't know about the pop though.

[Tim]

That's usually a loose connection and the initial arc when you try the starter pops.
Check all your power and ground connections.

Around 3 am last night we had the same issue with my buddies fresh built si. Key on everything perfect. The second he tried the starter pop and everything died. Had to wiggle the ground and it would do it again. Just ran a jumper cable from the trunk battery to the block and fired it

[ohisofly]

Check battery cables.  I've seen a bad connection act similar to what you described.  I don't know about the pop though.

I think this is what happened since my ground was less than ideal and it was sparking randomly when I would try to start the car

That's usually a loose connection and the initial arc when you try the starter pops.
Check all your power and ground connections.

Around 3 am last night we had the same issue with my buddies fresh built si. Key on everything perfect. The second he tried the starter pop and everything died. Had to wiggle the ground and it would do it again. Just ran a jumper cable from the trunk battery to the block and fired it

Yea that kinda makes sense now that I think about it. The problem went away this morning but for the life of me I couldn't get it started. The car turns over every single time I try to start it but immediately shuts off. If I give it gas it'll run for a few seconds but it just spits and sputters, never runs smooth. I hooked up my ostrich with crome and tried adjusting some of the fuel numbers, but to be honest I have no idea what I'm really doing so I'll have to learn more about how to use crome

[ohisofly]

Does anyone know where the iacv plug is on the engine harness? The only cel I have is for the iacv which I know is extremely important while trying to start this thing, and originally I didn't have it plugged in. I saw that the same part of the harness that goes on the back of the block for the alternator had a coolant sensor/plug that was the same, so I tried plugging that in but the code still didn't go away.

[Tim]

careful plugging random plugs in as a few share the same plug.
Common mistakes melt the iat sensor or burn the purge transistor and blow a hole in the ecu board.
Can't go by plug location especially with a swap.

I grab a volt meter set to ring continuity and set one pin on the correct ecu pin.  Then I probe the pins of each plug until I find a match.
I use this picture more than any other reference in my garage

[ohisofly]

careful plugging random plugs in as a few share the same plug.
Common mistakes melt the iat sensor or burn the purge transistor and blow a hole in the ecu board.
Can't go by plug location especially with a swap.

I grab a volt meter set to ring continuity and set one pin on the correct ecu pin.  Then I probe the pins of each plug until I find a match.
I use this picture more than any other reference in my garage

Thanks for the picture that's going to help tons

[ratcityrex]

It's shit like that I save and print. And then i put it up on the wall in my shop.

[92CXyD]

It's shit like that I save and print. And then i put it up on the wall in my shop.

Same here, but in a binder. 

[ohisofly]

That plug I was guessing at was indeed the iacv, but now I have a solid check engine light so I'm not really sure what's going on.

Got this welded



As of now it's impossible for me to run a high beam bulb but I'm glad that a filter fits in there



 



I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend

[EVOjunky]

Wow! awesome build! Good luck with getting the tune dialed in this weekend!!