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[ohisofly]

Honda oil pump, water pump, tensioner, rear main, etc.







Punched out old valve guides





The only reason I put new valve guides in is that two of them looked like this:



Bronze ferrea valve guides installed



H22 clutch reservoir cut and welded to change the mounting angle



Had to order this 90 degree banjo fitting due to clearance issues



Added vtec to the ecu



Tucked driver's side headlight harness





Removed the evaporator







After removing the evaporator I reinstalled the empty box



A/C harness



Tucking passenger side headlight and fuse box harness



Tucked wiper motor harness



Everything sectioned and necessary wires extended



Headlight and fuse box harness pushed back through the firewall





To be continued

[ratcityrex]

Looks good. I remember doing my tuck and saying to myself this is the dumbest thing I've ever decided to do to a car. But it sure looked nice when it was done.

[rawr]

Looks good man

[ohisofly]

Wiring continued





Leaving this fender off for now because I still need to run the battery wiring



This is going to change because I'm probably mounting the msd box is this area too



Ready to go in



Even with the 90 degree fitting I still had to do a good bit of hammering for it to fit properly







Put back together



Ended up having to redo this



There wasn't enough room in between the tank and bungs to get good welds



Round 2









Still need to weld on a -8 bung for the return so just used primer for now



Stock fuel lines out



Previous owner used this as a db drag car 







Ultimately used 40 pounds of dry ice. If there wasn't any dynamat the stock sound deadening would probably come out with 5 or 10 pounds.

















This is 40 pounds, when it's said and done it'll be closer to 50





Painted filler neck and cover



Hopefully this weekend I can finish removing the sound deadening and get the interior painted / put back together

[ohisofly]

Removing dynamat continued

Rust spots after the wire wheel



Primer & paint



I'm not sure what this blue stuff is, seems like a spray on rhino lining type of thing. It came off slowly if you chipped at it but after my third trip to get dry ice it was good enough for me



Floor & trunk all painted



Carpet and rear interior partially back together



Added a -8 bung for the return



Painted it





Put this craft foam on the top to prevent noise. I put a bolt where the stock feed banjo goes and bent the return tube shut on both sides



Picked the head up last Friday, they checked it for flatness & it's good just has some knicks in it here and there. Valve guides are reamed out, should be ready to put back together now

[ohisofly]

Added a banjo to ¼” barb fitting for the breather



Used an eg evap valve



Tank in



Pumps & pre-filters



Couldn’t find a great spot to easily mount the fuel pumps so ended up making this bracket. It goes right between the tank and driver’s side rear trailing arm





After primer and paint







Mocked up



Starting to run the lines



Used this grommet from the stock fuel lines to run the power wires to the fuel pumps



Area behind the glovebox



Riveted some 16-gauge steel I had to it







Mocked up minus the fuel pump relays



Wiring everything up



Mostly finished



This is how I wired up the pumps, used a delay relay set to 2 seconds for the second fuel pump



Stock ls distributor



Coil removed



Wiring it up for the external coil





Stock coil vs blaster hvc coil



This is how I wired up the MSD, still need to figure out where I want to mount the new coil



Primer & paint for the coolant tube on the back on the block





Bought some Ferrea 6000 valves & dropped the head off at the machine shop for a valve job. While I’m waiting for the head to be finished I’ll be wrapping up the fuel lines and wiring

[ohisofly]

Picked up the head from the machine shop, got a 3 angle valve job & head was decked .004"



Ferrea 6000 valves, bronze valve guides & keepers
Supertech 85 lb springs and steel retainers
Blox lma



Made a bracket to move the proportioning valve to the firewall





Primer



Paint









While making more fuel line ended up snapping this fitting, currently waiting on another one



This is the section I was tightening, it was the adapter from one of the fuel pump outlets to -10 an



Making a mount for the coil



My brother is a welder, he wasn't home so I used his mig. It's pretty obvious I have no idea what I'm doing 



After Grinder



Primer



Paint



All bolted & wired up. I tried using the top left stud for the ecu but ended up just making a hole where that stud was and using a bolt & nut. You can't see it but the ground for the coil is directly under it which just grounds the coil to the bracket/body



Drilled out the rivets for the valve cover baffling



Used a m6x1 tap so I can use bolts to put it back together. I'll be using red loctite



Used a carbide bit to grind down two bolt holes on the front of the valve cover. I forgot to take a finished picture



Before



During



After



I'll get some better pictures but I ended up using an aluminum 3/4" tube for making the holes

Next on my list is getting this valve cover welded up, finish some wiring and then messing with the engine

[ohisofly]

Small update - worked on the valve cover bungs



Welded on the inside and out



Forgot to get a picture before the jb weld but just used this to make it look a lot better



One down, one to go. Used a file and then 150 grit to clean it up. Still has a little bit to go before it's ready for paint



I bought this for $5, intended on putting this on top of the steering column piece as that's where I want the gauges



After some trimming, it was clear that it was still going to block way too much of the center of the gauge cluster. This is an issue because I'm ultimately going to place the tunerview display here



It also looks like this gauge pod would have a similar issue albeit not as bad



I ended up going this route, notched out the upper corners and then jb welded the gauges to the top steering column piece



For the time being, I'm temporarily mounting the tunerview where the radio was. Here's making the plastic cover for it











I think it turned out alright



Finished cleaning up the wiring to the battery and front of the bay. Still need to make or purchase a battery mount, going with a pc680 style battery



Just received this from tristate



Current wiring situation



Almost finished, I still need to wire up my oil pressure sensor, fuel pressure sensor and flex fuel sensor. Sent my cams out for the delta 272 regrind and ordered stuff to degree the cams, once all of that arrives I can start measuring clearances and putting the head together

[ratcityrex]

Dope! Looks good

[ohisofly]

Dope! Looks good

Thanks man

Painted the bay this past weekend



Scuffed everything with a scotch brite pad. I didn't go too crazy trying to make it perfect as someday I'll probably shave the bay, just wanted to clean it up for now





Two coats of rustoleum primer





First two coats of rustoleum gloss white





This is after the third coat but I ended up doing four in total



I ordered some spraymax 2k clear so this weekend I can finish it up

Made a cardboard template for the catch can, it'll go where the windshield washer reservoir was



The side against the car has this notch in order to sit flat



Got some kirkeys, still waiting on the seat covers

[rawr]

love the kirkeys

[crxvtec91]

FUCK havent check in, in a long time; and this car has come a LONG way. Solid work!

[ohisofly]

love the kirkeys

Ty My stock driver's side seat was pretty beat up with a bunch of metal/foam showing so figured it was time to bite the bullet and get these

FUCK havent check in, in a long time; and this car has come a LONG way. Solid work!

Thanks man, it's getting there little by little. 2019 should be a good year

Not much progress lately with Christmas & New Years but here's some pics anyways

Seat covers came in the mail



Installed a gates 170 degree thermostat



My front rims came in the mail, 15x10 with 5.5" backspacing. I need to clean up some of the weld splatter on them before getting them powdercoated





Finally got around to clear coating the bay



Came out pretty good, far from perfect but I'm happy with it





GM flex fuel sensor with 8 an fittings



Here's the ground for the flex fuel sensor and oil pressure gauge



This is my 12v source at ignition on and run for the boost controller and oil pressure gauge



Removing more dynamat





Didn't get a picture after it was removed from the door panel but you get the idea. If I get bored I'll end up doing the passenger's side door as well



Finished welding the an fittings on the valve cover. They were welded on both the outside and inside to make sure they're solid



I originally wanted to use m6x1 10mm bolts to bolt down the baffle but it didn't end up working as well as I anticipated. Ultimately I ended up using 3/16" x 1/4" aluminum rivets, I was a little skeptical at first but it ended up being really solid. Hondabond was used in between the baffle and the valve cover. You can see some of the holes are missing rivets, this is due to those holes being too shallow for the rivets (wasn't enough material to drill the holes any deeper)



Here's the valve cover as of now, I'm going to use some normal jb weld epoxy to fill in the small pits that I currently have. I used the jb weld 'steelstik' which is basically a 2 part putty for everything so far. I've seen mixed things about powder coating over jb weld so I'll see if my powder coater is comfortable with it or not. If not I'll probably just spray paint it

[ohisofly]

Got my Delta 272 cams back





New toy



Had to replace a connector for all the wires I added going to the ECU



Cracked climate control



Jb welded it back together and then put this plate on it



Thicc





Used some normal jb weld to fill in the small holes/imperfections (used jb weld steelstik originally). Still need to sand it down



Didn't take any pictures but also got the mig splatter off the 15x10 rims. Mainly just used a chisel to chip the splatter off and then sanded it smooth. Front & rear rims are packed up ready for powdercoating, now just need to finish the valve cover

[crxvtec91]

This is good motivation for me to get my crx going again!

[ohisofly]

This is good motivation for me to get my crx going again!

Good to hear man 

It’s been a little while but here’s what I’ve been up to

Measured the valve to valve clearances



Have plenty of room for adjustment



Had to file down a washer to get the degree wheel to fit properly



Installed bbs to lock vtec, used check valve springs, and bent a coat hanger to reference against the degree wheel. After putting the timing belt on and setting up the dial indicators I degreed the cams and measured piston to valve clearances





I've seen various figures on what's considered safe minimum p2v clearance but even going conservative with a minimum .100 or .080 still allows for plenty of room to play with cam adjustment. Degreeing them put it at -1, -1 which seems reasonable given the decked head & block



Then I started putting together the head, OEM valve seals



Supertech 85 lb springs, supertech steel retainers, blox lmas



Ferrea 6000 std valves and ferrea keepers



Head ready to bolt down



RHMT



ARP headstuds



Bolted down



Delta 272 cams





Redoing the valve cover





Not perfect but it’ll do



New timing belt covers & gaskets











I accidentally got the wrong bottom cover so had to shave the bottom a little bit. It doesn’t sit flush against the oil pump at the bottom but close enough





Covers on







Started working on my transmission again, the youtube video I was following had the orientation of the 3/4 hub & slider upside down, causing everything on the mainshaft to be off a little bit. The case ultimately was maybe 2 or 3mm from closing



You can see the bearing on the mainshaft isn't down the whole way





The hub & slider being upside down caused this needle bearing to be off, hence pushing up everything on the mainshaft





Took everything apart and cleaned it since it’s been sitting for maybe 6 months or so



All back together, replaced the 5th gear cuff mainshaft bearing as it was a little rough



I still need to find the c-clip that holds the countershaft to the case and the axle seals but it’s almost finished



Skunk2 70mm throttle body



Installed with a thermal gasket



Speedfactory 4bar map sensor

This is how it’s sitting right now



Currently waiting on new vtec solenoid gaskets and need to find the transmission seals that I have somewhere. Hopefully in the next few weeks I’ll be able to get the motor and trans dropped in so I can finish wiring the engine bay and start working on the turbo setup. Planning on a divided top mount manifold

[ohisofly]

I don't need this coolant port anymore



Welded it shut



Don't need this small one on the top either



Only the port nipple itself was steel, the rest is aluminum. Forgot to get an after picture but it doesn't look good. It's watertight though which is all that I really care about



Starting to look like an engine. Mocked up the fuel filter, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator and injectors. Ended up ordering some fittings I'll need to complete the fuel lines but it's looking good overall





Ordered a new distributor connector because this one is toast



New vtec solenoid gaskets









I ordered new axle seals for the transmission, should be able to bolt together the case this weekend. Once that's finished just need to put on the twin disc and drop it in. I ordered a bunch of pipe for the turbo manifold which should be here next weekend as well

[rawr]

fucking magestic

[92CXyD]

Nice!! 

[ohisofly]

Thanks guys 

Finishing up the transmission with new seals







Old throwout bearing



Old vs new



New bearing in with Honda urea grease



Ready to go back together





SpeedFactory heavy duty detent springs





Transmission finally all finished



New front bumper



Hasport mounts



2.75" intercooler piping



Piping to make the manifold, treadstone 1.5" schedule 10



1/2" thick mild steel divided t4 flange



Head flange that adapts the head port to 1.5"



4" vibrant exhaust bellow for the exhaust, also have two 1.75" exhaust bellows for the wastegates



Moving on to redoing the engine harness



Removing the wire loom



Mocking everything up, kinda sorta tucking it









Along with shortening and extending wires as needed, I also replaced a bunch of connectors

Old distributor connectors





Old alternator plug, ended up changing it to an obd2 style alternator plug



Almost finished, need to bolt up the trans to finish the reverse switch and starter solenoid wire



Took the engine off the stand so I can bolt up the transmission and finish the engine harness



Hopefully this weekend I can get the flywheel & clutch setup bolted on and then after putting on the trans, it's ready to drop in

[ohisofly]

Finished up the engine harness



Distributor plugs tucked away down by the thermostat



Used a BRZ oil drain plug to block off the coolant fan switch on the back of the block, now the switch is on the thermostat housing





ARP flywheel bolts



Flywheel torqued down



Clutch & pressure plate on



Switching to the hush performance pull style slave cylinder



Ready to go in



Used a 9/16” drill bit to drill out the bottom two holes of the t-bracket, as the t-bracket was originally for a cable transmission



Moved the fuel filter here next to the t-bracket



Ready to go in







Mission accomplished









Plenty of room back here



Time to party

[Ntrain2k]

Fuck yea

[ratcityrex]

Yeah!

[ohisofly]

Thanks guys 

Small update, here's the hush performance pull type slave cylinder





Starting point, already drilled out the hole in the clutch fork for the slave cylinder to attach



Put this jam nut in



Then put the slave cylinder on



Tighten everything down, keeping in mind that there's adjustment with the jam nut and heim joint depth



Ready to go



And a pic of the fuel filter for those curious about clearance



Right now I'm waiting for some an fittings to arrive so I can finish the fuel lines and clutch line. I'm also doing my best to figure out how the intercooler and turbo setup are going to fit without hacking up the front bumper too bad. Didn't get a picture with the bumper on but I mocked it up to see what space we have to work with

[carkrazed]

Nice work bro! Super clean. What kind of power you aiming for?

I had a 91 SI back in the day. Built ZC with a bunch of nitrous. Car was a blast. Always wanted to get another.....

[ohisofly]

Thanks man, appreciate it  shooting for 700hp, wish me luck

That sounds like fun  I definitely have the ef bug

[walter]

really nice! did you replace yourserlf valve guides? im looking for some neway tools for to replace valve guides then reface valves and valve seats.

[ohisofly]

really nice! did you replace yourserlf valve guides? im looking for some neway tools for to replace valve guides then reface valves and valve seats.

Yea I replaced them myself, I used a 5.5mm valve guide drift punch that was apparently designed for removing motorcycle valve guides, but it worked great.

I basically followed what this guy did --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2VkImRi2QI

One issue I had was that the valve guide drift punch I got off eBay seemed to be pretty cheap, so I accidentally snapped the skinny tip of it off while punching out the valve guides to begin with. You definitely want a soft aluminum washer/spacer or something in between the valve guide and the valve guide drift punch to soften the impact between both parts. I saw some people on youtube that used an air chisel to get the valve guides out but I didn't have any luck with that, I think because of my air compressor and air chisel being from harbor freight

The second issue I had was that half of the valves didn't fit into the valve guides after I punched the new bronze valve guides in, it was either all of the intake valves or all of the exhaust valves, I don't remember. I ended up taking my head to the machine shop so they could work their magic and ream out the inside of the valve guides to make them fit. Also, keep in mind that the valve guides for the intake and exhaust can be different (or at least were with this engine), so make sure you keep track of which is which. I believe the height on the valve guides was different between the exhaust and intake on mine.

[ohisofly]

Glad the forum is back online    Got this thing up and running, no dyno numbers yet but I probably have 100 miles on it or so. I need to iron out a handful of things before it's ready to go on the dyno so it'll still be a little while

[92CXyD]

Sweet!!!!