Topic: My CRX shitbox that should be scrapped build (Read 62330 times)

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #150 on:** July 11, 2017, 08:10:20 AM »

I really like the new king race bearings, you may want to take a look at them.

Tim · « **Reply #151 on:** July 11, 2017, 08:14:47 AM »

That's what I ordered. Will see what the mains want after he line hones the block.

ohisofly · « **Reply #152 on:** July 11, 2017, 10:36:58 AM »

Hopefully the machine shop can make everything work out. If not I'd definitely consider going the OEM route - although it is more expensive, it's the legit way to get all your clearances the same and not just within a certain range. Honda acknowledges that the main and rod journals vary due to machining, hence the different color (size) bearings.

Eggylshatch · « **Reply #153 on:** July 25, 2017, 01:53:08 PM »

So did the shop get this sorted and is humpty dumpty put back together again?

Tim · « **Reply #154 on:** July 25, 2017, 08:15:44 PM »

Nope, keep being told next week.
Forgot to call again today

Tim · « **Reply #155 on:** August 04, 2017, 09:44:06 PM »

Good news, called today and they said it was on the table and confirmed a couple were way off, but it won't be fixed for a couple days.

Bad news, learned my wife wasn't actually paying off the credit card every month so she racked them up to over 10k.
Then i opened all the mail she had stashed and not bothered to open, another couple grand in medical bills and at least 3 collections notices for stupid shit like unpaid deductibles. Blew a gasket and took a couple days to calm down.

Tim · « **Reply #156 on:** August 22, 2017, 08:14:54 PM »

picked up block and they told me no charge.

I tried to tell them I wasn't trying to get free work, they machined the block probably 8 years ago, and i even ran and blew up the engine, but they said it was cool.

Another reason that shop is bad ass.

rawr · « **Reply #157 on:** August 23, 2017, 05:39:16 AM »

Hell yes. E ran in to something similar with the local dirtbike engine builder and one of my brothers race motors. The builder fucked the first build up then the second build the case cracked. All Free work since my brother was out a bike for 5 races. The dude knows what he's doing to just had some shit luck with parts.

Eggylshatch · « **Reply #158 on:** August 25, 2017, 02:22:03 PM »

Bummer on the credit card and collector BS. My wife and I split up most of our bills, but she's definitely the more responsible of the two of us. If auto-debit payments didn't exist, I probably would have fled the country a long time ago.

Glad you got the block, and for free-fitty! Let's see some photos of this bitch getting put back together now...

BoostedSchemes · « **Reply #159 on:** November 28, 2017, 09:53:17 PM »

when are you driving it over for another liquor sess??

Tim · « **Reply #160 on:** December 01, 2017, 02:46:41 PM »

Idk my toolbox is still sitting at my customers down there, when I make it back I'll see if you're in town.

Haven't touched the car much, keep saying I will.

Bought a 2 post lift off a local shop, haven't picked it up. I don't think they've even taken it out yet.
Bought an attic access ladder, still use a big ass extension ladder that takes up a bunch of room.
Basically no motivation for much lately.

Did take my pos nova to a car show one night.
it has no wiring to the rear lights, so I duct taped flashlights to all the marker and brake light housings.
Was cold as shit with no front or rear windshield.
Bunch of old heads get together on main street of the town about 8 miles away. no clue how I made it in and out without getting impounded.

rawr · « **Reply #161 on:** December 03, 2017, 04:27:05 PM »

The Nova is rad as fuck and I usually don't like Nova's

Tim · « **Reply #162 on:** December 04, 2017, 06:14:38 PM »

Another impulse buy i'll buy a bunch of parts for that will never get put on

Ntrain2k · « **Reply #163 on:** December 04, 2017, 11:19:43 PM »

I know how that goes, lol....

ohisofly · « **Reply #164 on:** December 08, 2017, 06:40:32 AM »

Nova is super legit

Tim · « **Reply #165 on:** December 08, 2017, 02:50:36 PM »

Thanks. It's a rust bucket.
T
Half the trunk floor is just a huge hole.
Gas tank is a random plastic one that I ratchet strapped in so the trunk so it stopped falling in the hole and sucking air.
Floors are pretty solid but the window frames dash and package tray are all rusted away.
I have patch panels and a welder I'm hoping to slap it all together some day and just leave it looking like shit.

ohisofly · « **Reply #166 on:** December 10, 2017, 09:39:38 AM »

For some reason that reminded me of these 2 corvairs from h2oi

Tim · « **Reply #167 on:** December 11, 2017, 06:10:49 PM »

Got to cleaning Saturday night turned into putting this bitch in.
I need to grab a picture of it unfolded, its pretty badass for as cheap and rickety as it seemed.
375 weight limit and reached my 11ft ceilings.
Was a bit of a bitch to cut the joists out and frame in, but worth the extra width for fitting parts up there.

Then I promised beer, monster, and lunch and I got a few people to help me haul these back and stand them up Sunday.
Wasn't near as bad as I thought it would be, went up real smooth.
Still need to wire it in and bleed/flush the hydraulic lines.
Its an old full hydraulic setup that has some valve to balance the cylinders instead of a cable, but at 11k it should lift anything I'll ever need or want to touch.

ohisofly · « **Reply #168 on:** December 11, 2017, 06:56:29 PM »

Any advice on finding a lift or reframing the ceiling? A buddy from work is shopping for a lift and I know I'm going to be helping with the install. One concern I've already heard is how thick the cement floor is so I'm sure there are some other things he isn't considering

Tim · « **Reply #169 on:** December 11, 2017, 07:55:50 PM »

They pop up for sale now and then, but they usually move fast.
I saw this on facebook and recognized the garage so I sent my wife with cash to snipe it.

As far as reframing the ceiling I just took a sawsall and blasted huge holes in the osb to stand the posts into.
assembled it and slid it around until we decided where we wanted.
bolted it into the floor
made a cleaner smaller hole in the scraps i cut out of the ceiling and scabbed them back in.

Tim · « **Reply #170 on:** February 22, 2018, 11:09:04 AM »

According to my measurements the bearings should be good.
According to plastigage they're a little tight for expected power.

I'm not the best with micrometers and a dial bore gauge, but I thought I was getting more consistent.
The weird thing is I swear every time I torqued the mains down on the block they got tighter.
Has anyone ever heard of that?
Even my machinist said something about hating to line bore honda blocks because they swore they were different every time they check them.

I was tired of pulling it apart 20 times so I said fuck it and its together.
Asked my wife to run the head casting through the dishwasher so its all clean and ready to go together next.

If this thing lasts it will be a miracle. It was built the last time on hopes and dreams, now its the picked up broken pieces hosed off and put back in.

Tim · « **Reply #171 on:** February 22, 2018, 11:14:37 AM »

In hind site I'm using cheap mics and Fowler dial bore gauge, so that could for sure lend to inconsistency.

My logic against that is I always check the bore gauge back against the mics.
So if the bore gauge was being fucky, it wouldn't go back to 0 back on the mics.
I measured the crank multiple times different days and always got very close or exact measurements.

IDK my slap together junk builds always lasted longer than when i try to do it right. Maybe this will fall under one of those builds and be a miracle motor lol.

rawr · « **Reply #172 on:** February 22, 2018, 12:39:17 PM »

Fowler shit sucks ass. 99% is rebranded Chinese shit they mark up 5x.

You're checking stuff against each other is a 1:1 check at best.

If you have a click type thimble on your mic just do 3 clicks. If it's friction just move it till it stops.

I'd guess your mic is probably right to about half a thousandth to a thousandth. I rarely ever see a cheap mic where the 10 thousands vernier is lined up correctly, but they don't fail a lot without it being noticeable that either the threads or anvils are fucked up.

The bore gauges are so technique based that if you don't have a good feeling for it and you didn't just set it to a standard ring you can get wonky numbers even with the 3 anvil bore gauges. I almost always had to restandardize a bore gauge before calibration and it doesn't count as a fail for them.

If you want to be sure in the future just get a cheap set of old gauge blocks from eBay. .even if they failed calibration they're usually within like 20 millionths of an inch

Tim · « **Reply #173 on:** February 22, 2018, 01:25:47 PM »

Quote from: rawr on February 22, 2018, 12:39:17 PM

Fowler shit sucks ass. 99% is rebranded Chinese shit they mark up 5x.

You're checking stuff against each other is a 1:1 check at best.

If you have a click type thimble on your mic just do 3 clicks. If it's friction just move it till it stops.

I'd guess your mic is probably right to about half a thousandth to a thousandth. I rarely ever see a cheap mic where the 10 thousands vernier is lined up correctly, but they don't fail a lot without it being noticeable that either the threads or anvils are fucked up.

The bore gauges are so technique based that if you don't have a good feeling for it and you didn't just set it to a standard ring you can get wonky numbers even with the 3 anvil bore gauges. I almost always had to restandardize a bore gauge before calibration and it doesn't count as a fail for them.

If you want to be sure in the future just get a cheap set of old gauge blocks from eBay. .even if they failed calibration they're usually within like 20 millionths of an inch

If it makes any difference I wasn't going for real numbers, just difference between crank and bearings.
I didn't care if the crank measured 1.6565 or 1.7575, I zeroed the bore gauge to the mic, then used it on the bearings.
I then swapped in other bearings and tried to get 0.0025 between measuring the crank and the installed bearing.

Everything I have is cheap junk, but I figured doing it this way should be half decent as long as its repeatable.

rawr · « **Reply #174 on:** February 22, 2018, 01:33:02 PM »

If all you were looking for was that 0.0025in gap from a reference point it should be fine. That's a hotdog down a hallway as far as that bore gauge is concerned.

Tim · « **Reply #175 on:** February 22, 2018, 01:37:57 PM »

right. thats what my logic was.

mic crank
set gauge to mic
gauge installed bearing
verify gauge to mic again
the difference is my clearance between crank and bearing

Tim · « **Reply #176 on:** March 06, 2018, 12:10:54 PM »

chipping away at it an hour here and there.

tl:dr
cams seem to be the same as a skunk2 pro1 and chassis is now certified to 8.50

rambling:
I picked up a set of cams a few years ago off a buddy that parted out his build, he picked them up used off a local shop when a customer car blew up.
They were supposed to be barely used Blox tuner type B cams, but when i degreed them in to what Blox told me to they looked way off.

I sent pics of the engraving to Blox and they said they were not anything made by Blox.
I asked Skunk2 if they could give me the valve opening and closing information for the pro 1's, and they sent me a badass spec sheet that lists opening closing and duration of each lobe at 9 different lifts.

I only ran through the vtec lobes, but they look spot on.
as far as I can tell its the same cam with the keyway cut about 4 degrees off from what skunk2 lists.
everything was either spot on with a couple a degree or two off. They were close enough that I'm going to chalk up any errors to cheap equipment, misalignment in fixturing, and human error.

Then I had a random thought about having my chassis certified.
Texted a local fabricator to see when the next time he was having the chassis guy in town, happened to be later that day.
Told him to go ahead and send him to my house when he was done. He only charged me a couple bucks mileage fee since he was in the area.

Tim · « **Reply #177 on:** March 06, 2018, 12:19:28 PM »

New parts:
-titanium retainers
-wrist pins
-bearings
-used rockers from another head

Used parts:
-random scat rods I had
-same pistons and rings off the first round
-block that was line honed and bores honed
-valves and dual springs
-lmas
-mystery cams
-arp head studs that were scrounged from Tom's shop the first build.

So this block is oringed for copper wire. It looked perfect and none fell out during the cleaning, honing, and assembly.
I planned on just leaving them in there and slapping a new cometic head gasket that I found on.

Another local guy is having issues and he thinks he traced it back to orings and cometic gaskets. Said no one recommends cometic with step deck or oringed blocks.
I'm getting pretty close to my fuckit stage, so I'm seriously thinking about just reusing the headgasket from the last build again. pretty sure it was just one leftover from an ebay rebuild kit. Its somehow the only gasket I have other than 3 cometics that I have no idea how I got.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #178 on:** March 07, 2018, 12:03:22 PM »

Dope, I remember leed saying that a set of skank9 cams he had were 8 or 9Â° off.

rawr · « **Reply #179 on:** March 11, 2018, 07:36:01 PM »

sick ass cage. Lets see this fucker do some wheelies

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Author Topic: My CRX shitbox that should be scrapped build (Read 62330 times)