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[turbohf]

1992 Civic CX
D16Y8 engine
Z6 intake manifold
stock engine harness
2 different distributors...original (china looking) and random parts bin
3 ecu's...stock P05, chipped P06 and P28 w/slightly tweaked Z6 base from crome software

so car was running and driving, no CEL. not saying it ran great or perfect. was just a slow as ballz CX. maybe it did have issues? idk. but no CEL ever came on.

i did Y8 swap... i swapped the original harness back on. i cut out the purge valve fucker plug off, and relocated the IAT (no cut). i swapped the stock CX distributor onto the Y8.

i chipped a random P06-A52. converted it to VTEC, AT to MT, etc. but i dont have VTEC wired so its all turned off with a 5k revlimiter for the moment.

i start the car up, but it takes a lot of cranks... after a throttle screw adjustment (it was all the way out) it idles just fine for 30+ mins for my break in.

i check the codes, i get 4 and 21 (how? it was turned off, but doesnt throw it now). so i swap in a known good P28 we used in my buddies car. code 4...

i check the plugs at the distributor, look fine. no shitty or pulled pins... check at strut tower, same. and nothing looks shady at the ECU either.

i swap in the P05-A00 (not the original to the car though, it was stolen, but right number per VIN),  it starts and DOES NOT CODE UP. idle is scary low (no tach), and doesnt run for shit... did a quick trip around the parting lot. idk what to expect though? its for a 1,5 8v motor with 190cc injectors? but didnt seem to run good.

throw either one of the other ECUs back in and it code 4's...

i took a trip down the street real quick with the chipped P06 and it really didnt feel too much better. it had slightly better idle and driveablity, but im gonna guess thats the 190 vs 240cc injectors?

i dont have another legit distributor for this car, so i throw together something. and plug it in....and in my frustration didnt put any plug wires on but doesn't matter cuz on just cranking it throws code 4 again!... FUCK.

then i gave up for the day.


ideas?

[jdmhatchracer94]

Trade it

[HiProfile]

Maybe some of the wiring got chewed on? Interference (shielding is not grounded properly or cut) or a weak signal (signal wire shorted to the shield) is the most common issue for Code 4. It's a typical issue with DPFI cars converted to MPFI when reusing any of the DPFI wiring (cabin or engine harness).

One way to test it is to run a fresh shielded wire from the distributor plug directly to the ECU plug. Shielded phone wire is cheap and works well. If this doesn't fix it, something is causing massive EMI (alternator?) or your grounding in general sucks. I'd recommend checking ALL grounds first, it's the easiest to try. The signal ground on the t-stat housing should be checked first, then the wire from the trans to frame.

[turbohf]

Trade it

$3500 or trade for something worth more (no cash/straight trade)

[turbohf]

Maybe some of the wiring got chewed on? Interference (shielding is not grounded properly or cut) or a weak signal (signal wire shorted to the shield) is the most common issue for Code 4. It's a typical issue with DPFI cars converted to MPFI when reusing any of the DPFI wiring (cabin or engine harness).

One way to test it is to run a fresh shielded wire from the distributor plug directly to the ECU plug. Shielded phone wire is cheap and works well. If this doesn't fix it, something is causing massive EMI (alternator?) or your grounding in general sucks. I'd recommend checking ALL grounds first, it's the easiest to try. The signal ground on the t-stat housing should be checked first, then the wire from the trans to frame.

I poked a both grounds. both are tight. but in depth look is now planned.... fuck. I don't think I put he ground back on the head...I know I didn't...

buddy said something along those lines and wants me to jumper direct to the ecu.


edit: I didn't see any signs of rodents or damage to anything. no cuts or patches. etc. no signs of  or  .... but  was there...

[Sedrostyle]

code 4 is in the distributor.... check your dizzy pin out match.
code four is from ecu side b15/16 i believe ill have to check again.
b11/12 are the CYP sensor... also in the distributor.
b13/14 are TDC sensor also in the dizzy.
I would start with a KNOWN or NEW distributor. we recently had issues with this in my car, and most recently in my brother in laws car when doing the obd1 stuff.
changed harness's ecus. it was in the dizzy.
i believe the code four you are having is the solid orange and the solid white wires on the distributor plug.
lmk if you need anything else I can dig up resistence specs for you.
I would swap the dizzy if you didnt do any wiring changes which i know you didnt since your still obd1 its in the dizzy.
I HAVE a BRAND NEW china ? dizzy for a z6.

[Sedrostyle]

Shielded phone wire is cheap and works well.

where do I find this. I would've done this along time ago... once I splice stupid shielded wire Im always worried about doing it.
I've always just done regular wire

[HiProfile]

I found some at homeboy depot, just look at the telephone cable. It will have a foil under the regular insulation.

[turbohf]

still have a y8 in my car Steven. z6 distributor isn't gonna work...



now its throwing a code 9... not 4

 

[ratcityrex]

Going with a shitty distributor

[Sedrostyle]

It'd work it'd only grab one headbolt tho.
Its in your dizzy wiring. Color match them.
It shouldn't flip flop unless your wirings bad

[turbohf]

It'd work it'd only grab one headbolt tho.
Its in your dizzy wiring. Color match them.
It shouldn't flip flop unless your wirings bad

i have skills. bolting to the head isnt an issue. i have a shitload of distributor parts.

the car ran and drove for MONTHS with the original distributor it came with.... i hacked together another one i had, and get the same results... i had planned tonight before i left to swap back to the original setup, but got distracted.


update.
so im getting codes on the stock P05 now.
the car will throw a code 4 or 9... NEVER BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. just one or the other.

i cant fuckin log with this Z6 map.

[Sedrostyle]

Try the 1.6.2 non rs crome version.
Maybe its your hack job no jewskills
Don't make me have to come down there and fix it.
Alsobya it drove for months with a non VTEC head/dizzy.
As stated throw on non v dizzy and non v ecu. Go from there.

[turbohf]

so been fucking with it.


narrowed it down to the ecu harness. its on the 10-11-12-13 pins. I think. not sure what pin or what the problem is cuz they are all on the same shielded bundle....

and way when your fuckin with that bundle it wind stumble/stall/CEL... combinations or singles.


fuck?

[HiProfile]

Yep, it's wiring relating to the distributor sensors. Codes 4 & 9 are those 2 sensors.

Lately I've seen people have loose ECU pins or the wires slide out of the metal end. Check continuity between the distributor plug and the pins INSIDE the ecu. Wiggle the harness fast & slow. Also check for shorts between those wires & ground. You can also use a multimeter, a small alligator clamp cable, and a long wire to check those wires while you wiggle them. The extra wire & clamp act like a giant extension for the multimeter.

You can also check continuity with ground of the shielding, that can be a hidden problem too. If you trace the bundle up from the ecu to the fire wall, you'll see a spot where they merge and it should have tape over it. That's usually where the shield will be connected to ground, and you can test continuity there.

[turbohf]

yeah. thats the conclusion i was coming to also. i was wiggling the pins fast and slow, but since they are on the same bundle it was hard to tell if it was pins or harness cuz it would tug on the bundle a little.

fun stuff... 

[92CXyD]

22yr old wiring what did you expect? 

[turbohf]

22yr old wiring what did you expect? 

100% factory unmolested seattle area car. that hadnt been touched till it was stolen in 2014. and its the wires at the ECU, not like they move around or are exposed to the elements...


i have had cars (the CRX for one) that have had the ECU probably 100s of times. pulling on the plugs/harness, in and out. different ecus, etc...



you think i can crimp down the ecu pins and reinstall? or just butt connecter in some new ones 

[Sedrostyle]

I've poked the tabs in on the ecu pins and it fix it.  Weird ass fuck it is doing this now.

[turbohf]

I've poked the tabs in on the ecu pins and it fix it.  Weird ass fuck it is doing this now.

so i have been thinking on this a lot... and i put a grip of miles on this with no issues... other than oil light flash, but who gives a shit about that? BUT. when i got the car it had a china looking reman distributor on it. so my guess is that at some point it was causing a ruckus and shitty aftermarket shop put china piece in there any magically the code went away for a while?

[ratcityrex]

Pull the bulb to the cel, sell the car and buy a nova. Problem solved.

[turbohf]

Pull the bulb to the cel, sell the car and buy a nova. Problem solved.

doesnt run well enough for that with CEL on.

[turbohf]

**FIXED?**

so had it narrowed down to 4 wires (hopefully), so i started depinning them one at a time and checking pin fit (just poking them into the ecu directly) and whatever the last pin was (B16) didnt even qualify as "loose". i bent the pin back down as far as i could get it and it grips!...


then finished up the rest of the shit. set base timing. wired in VTEC shit.etc.etc. even washed it. put 30+ miles or so on it. seems fine.


gonna go post it forsale...


 

[ratcityrex]

gonna go post it forsale... AND BUY A NOVA!!!