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[fastivab6tg25mr]

More progress, should be doing burnouts by new years! Driveshaft is done, flywheel insert is on its way, just need to finish the hole in the floor and its go time!

[fastivab6tg25mr]

shifter bezel is done. just waiting on the flywheel insert. my step bit wasnt big enough for the grommet so i made a tapered reamer on the lathe to make a 1.5" hole to pass the wire through.

[Ntrain2k]

Nom Nom

[fastivab6tg25mr]

I'm retarded. I didn't bother to check to see clutch master requirements for the hydraulic throw out. after bleeding the system my 5/8 master couldn't disengage the clutch. Turns out I need a 3/4 not a 5/8 master. Luckily Summit delivers next day. It was pretty easy to modify the plate to fit the new Tilton. Just needed to make the middle hole bigger and redrill the mounting holes. Got some 5/8 EPDM heater hose to remount the reservoir. I'm hoping to get it back in the truck at lunch and drive it home tonight.

[fastivab6tg25mr]

Back on the road and getting the new clutch and tranny broke in before beating on it. I'm glad we don't have winter here in Northern California so it will be ready for abuse in no time.

[fastivab6tg25mr]

I must have messed up my trackloc when I swapped in the carbon clutches cause I fried the diff pin, so I upgraded to a Detroit TrueTrac helical lsd

[92CXyD]

Hell ya! 

[fastivab6tg25mr]

Sorting out little things that have been bugging me. After the last horn contact I made failed I moved the button to the bottom of the dash. I hated the horn button in the wheel not working so I came up with a new solution. A few pieces of ABS glued together with a GM horn contact repair kit from AutoZone. So far so good but only time will tell. I forgot to take pictures of how it's actually connected.  I bent the last coil of the spring straight down, poked it out the bottom, and soldered a wire to it.

[MTZ]

I must have messed up my trackloc when I swapped in the carbon clutches cause I fried the diff pin, so I upgraded to a Detroit TrueTrac helical lsd

Baller setup

[fastivab6tg25mr]

I swapped to RevShift poly engine mounts. I was noticing a weird surge at low rpm cruise and found the E30/M20 mounts I put in last year were already collapsed my 3/4". I've driven less than 2000 miles on those mounts. They add a lot more vibration but the suge is gone. Still wrapped a seatbelt around the lifting side just in case.

[fastivab6tg25mr]

With the poly mounts came more vibration. I didn't realize the sealant was missing between the support and the hood skin. A little body sealer quieted it right up.

[MTZ]

i have super stiff urethane mounts and its fucking wild lol

[fastivab6tg25mr]

I went with the 80a which was the softest they make. It does drive way better with the polys. No more surging at light load on the freeway.

[fastivab6tg25mr]

Took a time lapse of making the spring brackets for my exhaust.
https://youtu.be/lq7mvWZIhqg?feature=shared

No matter how tight I made the clamp the exhaust would move and leak and rattle.
https://youtu.be/IRZLsosxZew?feature=shared

[92CXyD]

Took a time lapse of making the spring brackets for my exhaust.
https://youtu.be/lq7mvWZIhqg?feature=shared

No matter how tight I made the clamp the exhaust would move and leak and rattle.
https://youtu.be/IRZLsosxZew?feature=shared

Love this, gives me ideas

[fastivab6tg25mr]

More updates: what i thought was going to be a quick sensor swap turned into a huge pain in the ass. I got rid of my VR to square wave adapter and went with a Tick Performance hall sensor that goes directly into the Tremec TKX. After installing it I found that the MS3X has a VSS frequency limitation of around 500htz so it worked great until about 40mph then it went to 0mph. The solution I came up with was to turn down the sensor housing to put it in the diff to pick up on the 8.8s ABS ring. Turns out the ABS ring teeth are too small to register with the sensor. I then had to pull the diff, put a big ol booger weld making one big tooth to make the 1/4"x1/4"x1/4" cube for reliable sensor pick up. While I was welding it up I found the Timkin bearings for the 8.8 stick too far through the race and were hitting the carrier bearing shims. On the plus side since the bearing were off I was able to put the diff in the lathe and clean up the sensor tooth profile. I replaced the bearings and shims with the ones from Ford Racing. Got to set accurate preload of my new bearings with my new diff spreader. But to use the diff spreader I had to make adapter. After all that I now have a diff that is preloaded properly with bearings that don't rub the shims, and a speedometer that works accurately. What a pain in the ass these last few weeks have been.







On the plus side I did wash it for the first time in a very long time and take it to a local car show. It's fun to watch a bunch of old Hot Rodders stare at my engine bay in confusion and not comprehend how my 2.0 makes more power than their big block.

[92CXyD]

bet your truck would break hearts, when racing those same old Hot Rodders 

[fastivab6tg25mr]

Yea, it's hard to bait them into committing to a full run, once they hear the turbo and the wastegate open they usually shut it down and pretend they weren't going.

[random-strike]

no way in hell that thing is beating muh v8

[92CXyD]

no way in hell that thing is beating muh v8

Would like to see this race, both of ya come Wyoming and settle this, I'll officiate         

[random-strike]

haha

bench racing is easier.

[fastivab6tg25mr]

haha

bench racing is easier.

100% and you break less stuff.  I would lose to 99% of most quick cars from the line cause I can't launch my truck to save my life.

[92CXyD]

haha

bench racing is easier.

100% and you break less stuff.  I would lose to 99% of most quick cars from the line cause I can't launch my truck to save my life.

You are not alone in that department 

[fastivab6tg25mr]

My less than 2 months old alternator decided start charging at 19 volts, warrantied it out, replacement stopped charging within 2 miles. While waiting for the warranty of the warranty alternator to show up I rebuilt my alternator mount to be 2" lower in case the heat from the turbo was killing the regulators. Still having more time to kill I went looking for my clunk noise when taking off from a stop. The RevShift poly mounts that I installed mid-March have already torn in half. Good thing I strapped them with a seatbelt otherwise the turbo would have been slapping the hood. After replacing the alternator and mounts I started looking for my exhaust leaks and found a bunch of cracks in my manifold. I'm gonna make a jig before welding it up again so I can start on version 2.

[MTZ]

fucking wild how much shit goes wrong so fast! #ifitcanitwill

[fastivab6tg25mr]

Built the jig last night. Waiting to hear back from the guy that says he can do it to see cost and time frame.

[92CXyD]

as goes the old saying:

You ain't breaking parts, if you ain't making power!!   

[fastivab6tg25mr]

Manifold has been welded up, built a turbo support bracket from a $20 amazon alternator tensioner. no leaks yet, let's see how long it lasts. The engine looks so naked without the exhaust wrap.

[92CXyD]

Looks good, that turbo filter in last picture looks skinny, is that restrictive?
 

[fastivab6tg25mr]

So... I broke the TKX
https://youtube.com/shorts/QWr4QjM71wE?si=z__C4nPwv5cxIEzc