Topic: 2000 Dakota R/T (Read 153102 times)

random-strike · « **Reply #60 on:** January 14, 2024, 12:40:10 AM »

I put the stick on front lip. I might drill it out all over and put zip ties in it. Doesn't seen that sticky

random-strike · « **Reply #61 on:** January 14, 2024, 01:43:03 AM »

Well I definitely have to lift motor to get pan out lol...

It's too fucking cold and i didn't setup a heater my fingers and toes were starting to hurt so I left it for tomorrow lol. I think I need to buy some black rtv anyways

random-strike · « **Reply #62 on:** January 14, 2024, 01:43:55 AM »

The cold side is done though

MTZ · « **Reply #63 on:** January 14, 2024, 05:53:04 PM »

Quote from: random-strike on January 14, 2024, 01:43:03 AM

Well I definitely have to lift motor to get pan out lol...

It's too fucking cold and i didn't setup a heater my fingers and toes were starting to hurt so I left it for tomorrow lol. I think I need to buy some black rtv anyways

in good weather turning wrenches is actually fun a few beers, a joint and a few friends stopping by to criticize, there is nothing better but working in the cold is a such a pain, fingers feeling like you are 90 years old with rheumatoid arthritis. i dont miss montana or maine weather when it comes to cars.

random-strike · « **Reply #64 on:** January 15, 2024, 01:20:34 AM »

Pan was hard as fuck to get out had to lift motor up really high and unbolt trans crossmember mount and still barely sqeezed it out.

I have the wrong rear main seal so I gotta get one from parts store tomorrow

Motor looks good and bearings pretty good for 220k

random-strike · « **Reply #65 on:** January 15, 2024, 02:16:07 AM »

Bearing and seal. Seal kinda looks like shit

92CXyD · « **Reply #66 on:** January 16, 2024, 01:08:23 PM »

Remember to not line up rear main seal parting line with cap parting line. This avoids 1 less possible leak point.

random-strike · « **Reply #67 on:** January 16, 2024, 05:50:14 PM »

Quote from: 92CXyD on January 16, 2024, 01:08:23 PM

Remember to not line up rear main seal parting line with cap parting line. This avoids 1 less possible leak point.

yeah they say to do that or put a little bit of rtv there

random-strike · « **Reply #68 on:** January 19, 2024, 02:31:56 PM »

i put the rear main in last night, put oil pump back on and main cap, and started working on the drain into the pan, and hopefully today i can get PITA pan back on and forget about it.

hopefully the pan gasket goes on ok. its tight in there. aaaaaaaaayyyyyyyy

random-strike · « **Reply #69 on:** January 19, 2024, 06:39:52 PM »

The fittings that came with the turbo are aluminum so I couldn't weld it.

Had to wait until today and bought some high temp jb weld like back when people were broke

random-strike · « **Reply #70 on:** January 20, 2024, 02:01:04 PM »

I'm going to cut the inside of the fitting just to make sure it doesn't have a chance of hitting the crank and I'm going to try and put pan in and get mounts back to normal.

This cold snap has delayed the parts I need to finish. So I'm kinds in a holding pattern

MTZ · « **Reply #71 on:** January 21, 2024, 01:58:50 AM »

Welds

92CXyD · « **Reply #72 on:** January 21, 2024, 03:25:03 AM »

JB weld for the win!!

random-strike · « **Reply #73 on:** January 22, 2024, 03:12:13 PM »

got the pan in this weekend, it was a huge PITA. gasket got fucked up trying to squeeze it in, but i was able to align it all up and get a bolt started and easy street after that.

this style of pan gasket is GREAT. it would've been even more fucked if it was some old style gasket.

got the engine mounts, and trans crossover mount back. had to use a crowbar to nudge the motor over to get the bolts to fall back into the mounds. really cool that they had those grooves in the mount on the frame to just drop it back in without removing the bolts completely.

random-strike · « **Reply #74 on:** January 22, 2024, 03:17:32 PM »

random-strike · « **Reply #75 on:** January 22, 2024, 03:20:16 PM »

i was looking for some scrap small dia pipe to fab the wastegate, and came across this old manifold i made for my turbo raptor.

random-strike · « **Reply #76 on:** January 22, 2024, 03:29:45 PM »

got the passenger side of the crossover almost done, and also the wastegate on there.

waiting for my vbands to come

the snow is fucking everything up

random-strike · « **Reply #77 on:** January 22, 2024, 03:33:37 PM »

oil drain done, tight fit coming off the turbo and around the manifold. i didn't think about the drain when i made the manifold

random-strike · « **Reply #78 on:** January 22, 2024, 03:35:32 PM »

hopefully some point today i can work on the drivers side portion of the crossover, and finish all that up and not have to get under this bitch again... wishful thinking

92CXyD · « **Reply #79 on:** January 22, 2024, 04:14:04 PM »

one of the few good gasket Failpro makes is for the reusuable blue rtv oil pan.

Another option is hand rails in fast food bath rooms.

random-strike · « **Reply #80 on:** January 22, 2024, 04:36:41 PM »

Quote from: 92CXyD on January 22, 2024, 04:14:04 PM

one of the few good gasket Failpro makes is for the reusuable blue rtv oil pan.

Another option is hand rails in fast food bath rooms.

i wish it would've came with some of the snap things to hold it up. maybe you have to buy them seperate

random-strike · « **Reply #81 on:** January 23, 2024, 03:11:04 AM »

The rest of the hot side is tac'd up. A lot of welding to do tomorrow.

random-strike · « **Reply #82 on:** January 24, 2024, 12:08:21 PM »

got the hotside finished last night.

random-strike · « **Reply #83 on:** January 24, 2024, 12:09:16 PM »

the hot side is a real PITA to install. i have to remove the wheels to get the clamps on the manifolds lol.

what bugger welds?

can't see shit with the wrap on lololol

random-strike · « **Reply #84 on:** January 24, 2024, 12:10:49 PM »

random-strike · « **Reply #85 on:** January 24, 2024, 11:00:22 PM »

Downpipe was kinda a pita....

I wish I would've known the gt45 turbo vband was 3.25...

What kind of retarded shit is that. The ebay ad said 4"
...

Now I have to wait for vband. I overnighted one tho...

Getting close to being able to start.

I still have to rewire for srt4 map and run some vac lines and install the gauges...

Oh yeah and weld in a couple o2 bungs

random-strike · « **Reply #86 on:** January 27, 2024, 03:15:09 AM »

Well it runs and drives now.

The downpipe was a pita. I had to cut apart a v band and put a new longer bolt in it but I got it to work.

The bov was staying open at idle so u had to change the spring.

The wastegate is opening because it's hooked to vacuum. Tomorrow I'm going to add a vacuum nipple to the carb hat.

I still need to install the injectors, map sensor, gauges lol

random-strike · « **Reply #87 on:** January 28, 2024, 03:35:35 AM »

Ok I put the tighter spring in the bov. That works now although the tial kinda sounds gay at 4psi it makes a little squeak

I added a boost reference into the top ic piping because I didn't want to fuck with the carb hat since pipe is easy to replace.

random-strike · « **Reply #88 on:** January 28, 2024, 03:36:19 AM »

Installed gauges was kinda a pita took me several hours

random-strike · « **Reply #89 on:** January 28, 2024, 03:40:14 AM »

With 4psi spring it's obviously not impressive but it everything seems to work and I felt it start to pull a little at 4psi like 8psi might be pretty fun

Apparently these ebay wategates have a bad habit with these soft springs of opening early, and it does seem pretty laggy. So I bought a MBC it's supposed to stop them from opening early

Also it still has the stock map sensor and injectors and fuel / timing tables

The muffler is choking the fuck out of it too I believe. I'm going to cut it off tomorrow and straight pipe it.

Turbos are good mufflers anyways

All he turbo setups I've done when they had mufflers they sucked ass

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Author Topic: 2000 Dakota R/T (Read 153102 times)