Topic: HOLES (now with hmt liquid cooled chineez drill press) (Read 14690 times)

7808 · « **on:** July 21, 2009, 05:42:30 PM »

how do you

cut large nice holes in odd shaped pieces of metal all nice like this

nice metal hole saws in a drill press or what? ive tried some fucked ways of doing it that ended up me cleaning and rounding the hole for a fuckin half an hour. and these "bi-metal" hole saw deals are all they seem to sell at stores and they look like they have way to large/few teeth to work for shit

i need to cut some 1-2" ones and a couple 3.5" ones

patsmx5 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2009, 06:37:32 PM »

If you can hold the part in a vice, and bolt the vice to a drill press, then the hole saw cutters work fine. I've done this several times. But it has to be rigid and well supported to work.

civiceggturbo · « **Reply #2 on:** July 21, 2009, 06:42:15 PM »

i dont think my harbor freight hole saws are going to take that kind of abuse lol, then again thats why i bought two sets

patsmx5 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 21, 2009, 06:51:06 PM »

I bought a cheapo hole saw cutter from Lowes and cut three 3.5" holes in some 3/8 thick steel plate with a cheapo 1/3hp drill press. Just used lots of spray to keep the cutter cool and it worked as good on the last one as it did on the first.

weirtech · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:37:15 PM »

if you are on a budget, a hole saw. just run it slow rpm and lots of coolant. as mentioned, make sure everything is clamped down stable. take your time and don't push too hard and it shouldn't be a problem. take as square a cut as you can... don't start the hole with only one side digging into the collector... the more contact area you have around the diameter of the holesaw, the more stable it will be and give a better cut and make your saw last longer.

if you have the $ get a carbide tooth holesaw. i've used them a couple times and they are far better!

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2009, 10:19:31 PM »

i just use the fastenal brand hole saws. they last long enough usually chuck a few teeth then i toss them. i would say you can cut 10-15 holes before they shit out.

i don't use any cutting fluid as it WILL effect your welds there is no way to get all of the cutting fluid out/off the metal.

That Guy · « **Reply #6 on:** July 22, 2009, 01:36:47 AM »

I usually just use a torch followed by a few minutes of christmas tree die grinder bullshit, fuck i hate filings all over the place but it works. touched up with flapper wheel after and theres really no difference between the holesaw and my abortion, a hole is a hole ;D

rawr · « **Reply #7 on:** July 22, 2009, 02:59:28 PM »

I keep seeing this thread at the top and the title makes me think it's porn.

t_cel_t · « **Reply #8 on:** July 22, 2009, 05:27:22 PM »

Quote from: turbob16hatch on July 21, 2009, 10:19:31 PM

i just use the fastenal brand hole saws. they last long enough usually chuck a few teeth then i toss them. i would say you can cut 10-15 holes before they shit out.

i don't use any cutting fluid as it WILL effect your welds there is no way to get all of the cutting fluid out/off the metal.

use a torch and burn the oil off, your saws will last longer and it only takes a min with the torch

7808 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 22, 2009, 08:04:31 PM »

i might have to visit this tractor supply place i hear about

Quote from: c0mpl3x on July 21, 2009, 10:10:41 PM

oh ps i hear that yuriney gave you a niggertune and you blew your shit up or somethin?

ya, thats probly what happened. could of been other things but im cool with blaming the russian

car and kit are long gone, it never did blow it just had bad comp in 1 cyl and was blowing smoke even though i tried to kill it by pulling the line off the wastegate and driving it as hard as the clutch would let me

racingtiger · « **Reply #10 on:** July 24, 2009, 01:42:31 PM »

HERE -> http://www.onetooladay.com/index.php

Normally $175 for $65 but only till 10PM pacific time

stealthiskey · « **Reply #11 on:** July 24, 2009, 09:19:22 PM »

Quote from: turbob16hatch on July 21, 2009, 10:19:31 PM

i just use the fastenal brand hole saws. they last long enough usually chuck a few teeth then i toss them. i would say you can cut 10-15 holes before they shit out.

i don't use any cutting fluid as it WILL effect your welds there is no way to get all of the cutting fluid out/off the metal.

Use water! doesn't lubricate as well, but it cools much better so your saws will still last, and its free and won't affect your welds. Spray bottle works good.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #12 on:** July 24, 2009, 09:31:10 PM »

good idea, where the shit is my head lately....

malichite · « **Reply #13 on:** July 25, 2009, 10:37:56 AM »

Quote from: weirtech on July 21, 2009, 08:37:15 PM

if you are on a budget, a hole saw. just run it slow rpm and lots of coolant. as mentioned, make sure everything is clamped down stable. take your time and don't push too hard and it shouldn't be a problem. take as square a cut as you can... don't start the hole with only one side digging into the collector... the more contact area you have around the diameter of the holesaw, the more stable it will be and give a better cut and make your saw last longer.

if you have the $ get a carbide tooth holesaw. i've used them a couple times and they are far better!

I was wondering about those. I saw one the other day and didn't know if was worth it or not. You like them hu?

TheMadScientist · « **Reply #14 on:** July 26, 2009, 11:42:34 PM »

Holesaws and patience FTW take your time lubricate and keep the saw cool, you'll be real happy with the results

HiProfile · « **Reply #15 on:** July 29, 2009, 02:09:51 PM »

First thing is to keep the bit stable. Use the chuck that keeps it from chattering.

Next is to keep your pilot hole from enlarging, so you aren't cutting more metal than you have to. Drill the pilot hole, then replace that pilot drill bit with a steel rod.

Mcmaster has some cheap bi-metal hole saws, but I think the heavy-duty version would be the "high carbon" type complex is talking about - they're 2x the price. A mixture of water & other crap is what they use for CNC coolant (gets nasty microbes in it after a while). They just spray a shitload of it. Oil is used primarily to keep it where it has to be w/o practically submerging it like you have to do with CNC coolant.

7808 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 31, 2009, 03:01:10 AM »

i had to cut three 3.5" holes in some 12ga steel sheet today so i tried a bimetal hole saw, and made a ring for a pool out of playdoh around the place i was drilling and just kept pouring water in it and i pulled on the drill press, shit was loud and not too fast but damn water worked good, blade is still shrp and never got very warm

That Guy · « **Reply #17 on:** July 31, 2009, 10:23:19 AM »

mmm... playdoh

Toysrme · « **Reply #18 on:** August 01, 2009, 02:26:52 AM »

mill
plasma cutter
holesaw
grinder

plasma them & do whatever minor clean up is left for the die grinder. be done in 2 min. no problems trying to keep a bit/workpiece still

7808 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 03, 2009, 01:58:10 AM »

$5 liqiud cooled chinese drill press hmt style

1gal jug
some clear tube & hotglue + bic lighter
lawnmower gas petcock ($4 somthin)
peice of solid wire
zip ties

there happened to be a perfect place to run the tube where some sort of crappy depth gauge used to be

patsmx5 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 03, 2009, 01:37:05 PM »

I'm so doing that. Badass / 0

SloS13 · « **Reply #21 on:** August 04, 2009, 07:11:12 PM »

that is officially the shit

caged · « **Reply #22 on:** August 05, 2009, 04:11:21 AM »

Good shit. Im soo doing this.

dvst8r · « **Reply #23 on:** August 05, 2009, 10:19:29 AM »

My biggest problem with my Chinese drill press isn't cooling, it is the lack of power, doesn't take much to stall my pos.

SgtB · « **Reply #24 on:** August 05, 2009, 05:03:09 PM »

You can make a venturi nozzle that hooks to an air compressor and really cools it down. It's less messy and uses less water. Good job none the less.

7808 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 05, 2009, 05:41:56 PM »

ya, or you can use a HF blaster gun nozzle that costs a couple bucks. but then i gota hook air up to it and turn my garage into a rainforest of rusty metal shit

Toysrme · « **Reply #26 on:** August 06, 2009, 09:16:15 AM »

Quote from: dvst8r on August 05, 2009, 10:19:29 AM

My biggest problem with my Chinese drill press isn't cooling, it is the lack of power, doesn't take much to stall my pos.

if you dont feel like buying a new one (lawlz) to g buy a real motor at grizzly. whatever size it actually called for on the drill press.
the chinese/HF type stuff really only has about 1/6 of the power they are marked to have.

7808 · « **Reply #27 on:** August 06, 2009, 11:18:58 AM »

mine works pretty good for what it is, we have a bigger standing press at work and its only slightly easier to stall mine

and i think its actually the cheap HF airbrush gun that supposed to be good for making a misting liquid cooled deal, might look into that sometime when im bored

SgtB · « **Reply #28 on:** August 06, 2009, 04:53:45 PM »

Cool. didn't know you ran machines. I use water based coolant with a flex nozzle on my uncles mill. Seems to cool it well, and doesn't use much coolant. I wasn't trying to diss your rig, it's pretty sweet. :yes:

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Author Topic: HOLES (now with hmt liquid cooled chineez drill press) (Read 14690 times)

civiceggturbo

rawr