swapping plug wres wont fix anything on the issue of dizzy roatiaon backwards... it dosetn work like that those timing sensors (magnetic pick up coils) are there to measure the angel of the crank for fuel injectorn and timing work.
by having the dizzy spin the other way the signals to the ecu will be all backwards and the honda ecu wont really work
so by re repositioning is a must to have the signals from the dizzy to the ecu in proper sequence and all.
and if you boost that corolla motor thos shits have composit head gaskets how well do they hold up to boost. i would not boost much on a motor with a shity gasket. metal hg and studs is the way id go
but some one chime in who knows.. how well they hold up.
The head gaskets can hold up fine to boost, just retorque the bolts and move on. Stock 7m's have been posting 550+whp #'s on stock retorqued head gaskets. No they are not better than metal, but they can work. Stock toyota hg torque is too low. Retorque em and dont knock, your hg will be fine. If it blows, replace it with another $5 gasket and spend all your $$$ on engine control.
Wait a minute here. I am turboing a 86 MR2 that has a 4AGZE converted to turbo. You all think it is possible to run a Honda ECU on it? As to the issue of the dizzy rotating opposite directions why not just swap the plug wires around on the cap?
Too the OP the 4AFE's came in several different iterations. The later ones are the best as they share the same crank and rods as the 4AGZE. If you really wanted to make big power you could use the 4AGZE shortblock and swap the 4AFE head onto it but I would just swap too the entire 4AGZE. Also some of the 4AFE's used a MAP sensor and others used the AFM. The Map is better of the 2 and would be best for the turbo swap. The early 4AFE's are only good for about 180hp and that is pushing them.
A Greddy Emanage Blue would work fine for you and finding them used are cheap. I have less then $150 in mine and it came with both Ignition and Injector harness's. Plus it can Datalog and there are programs that will self tune it for you, all you have too do is set AFR you are shooting for.
All a 4AFE is is a 4AGE bottom end with a AFE head on it. The cranks are 6 bolt. I think all pre 90 4AFE's are the 3 rib small rod versions and post 90 are 7 RIB large rod version. The wrist pins are 18mm on the small and 20mm on the large. The large version rods can handle 20psi. I would also get a thicker HG to lower CR. I think the 4AFE is .6mm (I know the 7AFE is) so you could use a 4AGE one that is 1.2mm. There is an eBay gasket set for the 4AGE that has one that is 1.75mm and that would work pretty good.
Post results.
This entire post lends me to believe you have never built anything in your life, and have found all your "information" on mr2 forums. There are a few members here who are running or have built 4a powered vehicles. You havent, and it is very clear you dont know what your talking about.
I would never use emanage. Absolute junk.
honda ecu, megasquirt, AEM FIC, MAF trans Pro, all MUCH better units.
You have been fed piss poor information, by people who lack experience or intelligence.
There has been quite a lot of speculation as to how much power X version of the 4A can handle. I dare say you quoted your #'s from someone who has no clue what they are doing, since you stated its power restrictions in "psi" and not power. Please dont bring that ignorant sort of thinking here.
Ribbed blocks are stronger, but the fools who claim to have split the three ribs (ive never seen pics) understand nothing about vibration from detonation, or the fact that small bore engines in general are sensitive to ignition timing changes (D-series anyone?) Idiots who break 4a's were using piggybacks and didnt have a clue what they were doing.
Basically, of your 10 posts so far, not one of them has been useful or technically inclined. Also, you have failed to make a proper intro post, which is a banning offense here. I suggest you get on board.
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Topic: First RHMT Turbo Geo Prizm. 56k go find a sock. (Read 28914 times)