Finally got a day off with decent weather. Got the charge pipes ran and the pink top mount ran up front.
Now, I have ridden in cars with RFLs, and herd them when they drove by. Yes they were loud, but Jesus Christ, this one is obserd. The first few times it blew off, it sounded like you would expect from a RFL. But on a second gear pull, 10 psi, 7900rpm shift, this fucking thing sounded like a Tie-Fighter zooming passed me. A lady that was walking her dog actually jumpped back when it went of.
I have a feeling that I will be bombarded by civics trying to race me.
I turned into the 50 percent of the turbo loving lot that believes bovs are stupid......
I'm stupid so i suppose it's whatever.
I thought for a minute that you had a t70 on your car....you just happened to be selling one on BrotaryHaterClub a few months ago.....
I did a quick edit on my post.
Let it be known i'll be installing a gt3582 on my whip. Full ching chong apex seal busting dont give a fuck if it breaks shit. As long as Rene Franco is able to stand behind the stuff he sells, i'll buy it and do my best to make it work. Lol.
What are you gonna do when the broken apex seals take out the turbine wheel on your faggot gt35 that cant be rebuilt? Throw more money at it like the rest of the rotards?
It's non-ball bearing, faggot.
RA and stock seals ftw. Superhard race seals are for RACE TEAMS.
RA seals period are the shit. The apex/side and rubber seals are awesome. Hopefully that's what my buddy is rebuilding his fd with if he can every take time off of work.
There's a long list of things that cause rotary death.
You can have a nice, high powered, RELIABLE rotary engine but you need to tune it properly and run MORE fuel than you THINK you need....which pretty much throws my whole plan to keep the gas mileage somewhat decent (for a rotary) out the fucking window. Since i'm stuck with my spinning triangles (i'm not getting rid of my rx7, sorry) i figured i'd educate myself in what it takes to keep them from blowing up while making some decent numbers.
My friend's fd died due to too much boost and not enough fuel. Some sort of solenoid problem with the stock twins or it being off tuned for how cold it was outside. I dont remember exactly.
What i'm getting at is you match the turbo and boost to your fuel and motor and make sure your tune is perfect as well as monitoring and datalogging everything. Air intake temerature played a role in the failure of my friend's car. Shit it can happen to any engine but tuning and balance is everything. Safely on my stock doweled block i'm looking at 350 max using only an aftermarket bad ass oil pan to aid in keeping the engine plates from shifting. I'm still trying to decided what management i want to go with (power fc or greddy emanage ultimate i guess) and what injectors i'll need to keep a rich tune and low egt's..... I picked the turbo for it's fast spool and response as well as exhaust flow working out well with stock exhaust sleeves/ports. It wont choke the engine up and can make 400hp easy at 15 psi spooling at around 3000 rpm. Not that i'm after that but the turbo just fits the job and i like the fact i can change housings and wheels as i please with ease because of how much support the journal bearing gt's have and after seeing the dyno sheets on some third and second gens i can't argue with it's performance.
I figure n/a shortblocks are cheap enough to really not give a damn about losing a seal or a housing so i've made up my mind to stick with it regardless of what my friends or some people on the internet say about the rotary. They aren't fuel efficient but are very boost efficient and are reliable with the right modifications. Most of my reliability mods are underway now. Clutch, driveline, cooling, cdi ignition, stri gauges, wideband..... I've had to cut back on smoking, eating out, partying and buying beer on the regular but it's worth it.
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Topic: My car: rx7. (Read 33020 times)