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[c0mpl3x]

been having a problem with the wrx lately.  suddenly it started only making 8-10lbs, i couldn't find a vac leak.  numerous people have had similar problems, so they would re-route the stock system and get the levels they were aiming for.

well, i re-routed the system as they do, i had my boost map set to 19.8psi on the old.  i took it for a ripper in 2nd, watched the log go to about 22-23psi and 'oh shit' and let off.

stopped, thought about it for a second.  took a ripper in first from a stop, only hit a log cap of 20 (well within reason of the setting) and seemed to be doing okay.   now, this is the setup (oem vs what is switched to)



it's retarded, but i don't have access to a laptop long enough (bad batt in a toughbook = $$) to be able to do any on-road tuning in the levels of a solenoid swap and wastegate duty cycle demands, so i'm still running the oem solenoid (2 port) before i switch to a 3-port

[Tim]

i did note that my duty cycle tanks to 0 once i get above high 3000's

if your duty cycle is 0 then you are not venting any of the pressure going to the wastegate and get stock gate boost levels.

How do you know your duty cycle is 0? Are you logging? Find out what in your program is making it tank to zero and you find your problem.

Re-routing boost reference to your intake vs your turbo will only raise the boost whatever pressure drop your intercooler creates which will not suddenly change and cause your car to build 'stock' boost after you claimed to have raised the boost to 17psi.  IE this is not your problem.

[Tim]

i couldn't find a vac leak.

Wait, did you ever pressure test like I've been telling you or are you just popping the hood and poking around?

[caged]

Reset the ecu, it may have gone into limp mode because of the boost spike and now limiting the duty cycle.

[caged]

when you rerouted the vac lines did you keep the "olive" (restrictor) on the boost feed line? Or did you replace the vac hoses? If it has had the restrictor removed the boost solenoide cant bleed off enough boost to get above wastegate pressure. hope that heps.

[Joseph Davis]

What is your IAM?  Compare that to Boost Control Disable settings.

[Joseph Davis]

I didn't ask what your Boost Control Disable settings are.  I asked what you IAM was, and told you to compare it to that.

[Joseph Davis]

Ignition Advance Multiplier, it scales how much of the ignition advance map getss added to the base ignition map.  If the engine sees no knock it advances the IAM.  If it doesn't advance enough, for whatever reason, you get wastegate or lower than target boost.

#1 cause is exhaust rattling against the chassis causing fake knock.  But don't ASSume that quite yet - just to be on the safe side before taking any more rippers, get the vehicle to full operating temp and look at your misfire monitor/misfire counts while at idle.  With light flywheel, big injectors, etc, it's not uncommon to throw a couple counts here and there, but if one or two cylinders are throwing a lot of counts then you need to go ahead and tear the engine down before it shitcans itself and the damage add$ up.

[Joseph Davis]

IDK if that would cause "knock," but a $30 inverter and you can figure that out without all the battery hassles.

[Joseph Davis]

A few random will deteriorate the IAM, and it takes a while to come back up.  That could be your problem.

Are you doing Vishnu resets?

[Urban Indian]

it's retarded, but i don't have access to a laptop long enough (bad batt in a toughbook = $$)

go to walmart

buy an inverter, it costs $40 and you can plug it into your cigarette lighter to use your laptop in the car



i didnt read the rest of the thread because i couldnt handle that

[Joseph Davis]

I had a bad experience with Walmart inverters. 

Go to a truckstop... as long as it has a manual switch instead of a electronic circuit controlled pushbutton that defaults to off every time the thing detects some arbitrary undervoltage at idle, it's great.

[HiProfile]

Nog, did you put the "pill" into the line attached to "INT" and the TEE spot unmodified? Some guys drill the pill out a tad for better control, and the newer cars come with them enlarged already. I believe the way the stock system works is to keep the solenoid open at first, recirculating boost into the intake before it can move the WG. Then it cycles the valve closed, giving the WG the boost needed to open.

Also, the pill/restrictor on your setup would reduce it leaking enough for false MAF readings.


http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?ID=3476

[caged]

Do a leak down test. Hopefully not ringlands.

[Robb]

Maybe try running some actual 93 oct or mixing paint thinner to get your fuel octane up, see if it makes a diff.

Honestly, your car is a fucking tank, no other wrx would have lived throught the shit you put yours to. You have some good voodoo on your shoulder or something.

[Robb]

Those cars are fragile as fuck.  Everybody I know who owns one is on their 2nd, 3rd, etc. transmission or engine.  Its simply a miracle yours isnt blown to pieces, since you dont strike me as the sort of person who babies the car. 

gummy worms and a tank of 93 over 89

Seriously, put some decent gas in it.

[Joseph Davis]

had the usual few snowflakes in the oil,

 

[Joseph Davis]

That's an interesting mental image.