Topic: machine work cost? (Read 53797 times)

SloS13 · « **on:** March 21, 2009, 03:29:34 PM »

I'm broke as piss right now and realized on my manifold both the head flange and turbo flange are a little out of whack so I need them...planed? I dunno wtf you would call it but how much should I expect to pay for that?

chris · « **Reply #1 on:** March 21, 2009, 03:31:58 PM »

Find a shop run by one guy. If not you will pay flat rate one hour fee. Small shop/one dude he will charge actual time.

crttaz · « **Reply #2 on:** March 21, 2009, 04:51:16 PM »

big belt sander!

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 21, 2009, 04:55:52 PM »

Quote from: crttaz on March 21, 2009, 04:51:16 PM

big belt sander!

+1 get a cheap one at Hf I which I would have done it my self.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #4 on:** March 21, 2009, 06:04:20 PM »

when i go in to get turbo manifolds decked/planed i pay a flat rate of $25 and he does whatever he can get to.

some times he can't reach a wastegate flange without hitting the runners, so he doesn't try.

Dweezil · « **Reply #5 on:** March 21, 2009, 06:41:38 PM »

Staple a sheet of sandpaper to a 2x12 and slowly run the flanges over that. It also works for leveling lawnmower cylinder heads.

CSaddict · « **Reply #6 on:** March 21, 2009, 06:48:32 PM »

I have an HF belt sander like http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6852

It works mint. I'd say send it to me and Ill knock it down for you but the shipping cost alone isn't worth it.

SloS13 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 21, 2009, 07:47:18 PM »

I might try the 2x4 method

caged · « **Reply #8 on:** March 21, 2009, 11:05:46 PM »

Quote from: SloS13 on March 21, 2009, 07:47:18 PM

I might try the 2x4 method

Best of luck, I did mine on my big belt sander and it took fucken ages.
The shop wanted $55 to put it in the mill, I got my belt sander for $50 and did my flange and have used the belt sander fucken heaps

CSaddict · « **Reply #9 on:** March 21, 2009, 11:55:38 PM »

Quote from: SloS13 on March 21, 2009, 07:47:18 PM

I might try the 2x4 method

Worst case, send it to me and I can knock it down and send it back. Just handle the shipping.

d-rail · « **Reply #10 on:** March 22, 2009, 04:25:11 AM »

Quote from: CSaddict on March 21, 2009, 11:55:38 PM

Quote from: SloS13 on March 21, 2009, 07:47:18 PM
I might try the 2x4 method

Worst case, send it to me and I can knock it down and send it back. Just handle the shipping.

Got to love the hood up with help even if it does cost a little more just cause you know it'd be done right and true.

SloS13 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 22, 2009, 05:02:40 PM »

my arms are sore, but on the bright side I'm at least 1% done. It's like ribbon candy. I didnt know it was that messed up until I started sanding the high spots.

Just saw this at lowes while I was buying sanding supplies. Wife had to stop me from buying it

dvst8r · « **Reply #12 on:** March 22, 2009, 06:04:49 PM »

are you painting the flange, so you can see where you have sanded and where you still need to go?

SloS13 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 22, 2009, 08:29:40 PM »

Quote from: dvst8r on March 22, 2009, 06:04:49 PM

are you painting the flange, so you can see where you have sanded and where you still need to go?

right now im just using surface rust for that but once I get close I'm gonna put a thin coat of spraypaint on it

Random Hero · « **Reply #14 on:** March 22, 2009, 08:43:07 PM »

Quote from: SloS13 on March 22, 2009, 08:29:40 PM

Quote from: dvst8r on March 22, 2009, 06:04:49 PM
are you painting the flange, so you can see where you have sanded and where you still need to go?

right now im just using surface rust for that but once I get close I'm gonna put a thin coat of spraypaint on it

It doesnt have to be even close to flat to seal good.

Minor Threat · « **Reply #15 on:** March 22, 2009, 09:03:15 PM »

Quote from: Random Hero on March 22, 2009, 08:43:07 PM

Quote from: SloS13 on March 22, 2009, 08:29:40 PM
Quote from: dvst8r on March 22, 2009, 06:04:49 PM
are you painting the flange, so you can see where you have sanded and where you still need to go?

right now im just using surface rust for that but once I get close I'm gonna put a thin coat of spraypaint on it

It doesnt have to be even close to flat to seal good.

X2 Bolt it on, run it, when it's still hot torque it down.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 23, 2009, 10:18:03 AM »

I've surfaced several small engine cylinder heads by putting sandpaper on a piece of something that's flat. IE-1" thick glass, slab or granite, surface block if you have one, etc. Can also make a surface block with a few layers of MDF glued together.

That said, I surfaced my shit with a bastard file and used heavy grease on the turbo and WG flanges. No leaks.

dvst8r · « **Reply #17 on:** March 23, 2009, 11:11:58 AM »

Spray copper is a wonderful thing too.

SloS13 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 23, 2009, 12:26:56 PM »

I used both new gaskets and copper before. Still leaked. the head flange is cured out in the direction of the runners (away from the head) so it's a tough spot to seal. If I had to eyeball it against the straightedge, I'd say 3/32nds or so out. I made some progress yesterday and will finish up today and keep my fingers crossed

SloS13 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 24, 2009, 11:30:51 AM »

so I got wood and screwed some 40grit to it.

About 3hrs of sanding

then primer

then angle-ground some high spots

then sand

then primer

then angle grinder again

then primer

then sanding

lots of copper spray

no leaks

Aero · « **Reply #20 on:** March 24, 2009, 11:55:59 AM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on March 23, 2009, 10:18:03 AM

That said, I surfaced my shit with a bastard file and used heavy grease on the turbo and WG flanges. No leaks.

+1232563

patsmx5 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 24, 2009, 02:53:00 PM »

Quote from: Aero on March 24, 2009, 11:55:59 AM

Quote from: patsmx5 on March 23, 2009, 10:18:03 AM

That said, I surfaced my shit with a bastard file and used heavy grease on the turbo and WG flanges. No leaks.

+1232563

Yeap, grease worked well.

Pic of flange after surfacing with a bastard file. You can see where it removed the high spots.

SloS13 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 24, 2009, 03:37:23 PM »

I need a kickass file. Woulda helped a lot

patsmx5 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 24, 2009, 03:54:58 PM »

Quote from: SloS13 on March 24, 2009, 03:37:23 PM

I need a kickass file. Woulda helped a lot

Lowes has a set of files for like 10 bucks. That's what I used. Just put the file against something flat so it doesn't bend. I just put the file against a flat board and went to town. Only took maybe 3 minutes to surface the turbo flange. It's surely within .005, which is good enough for grease to seal it up. No gasket obviously. Head flange I didn't surface as that will bend into shape when torqued, heated, and retorqued.

caged · « **Reply #24 on:** March 25, 2009, 01:47:53 AM »

[/quote]
It's surely within .005, which is good enough for grease to seal it up. No gasket obviously. Head flange I didn't surface as that will bend into shape when torqued, heated, and retorqued.
[/quote]

How good does grease work? Is it just normal cv grease or sumthing, How does it go with 800c and 20psi?
I hoped my head flange would pull in when heated but it fucken didnt

Aero · « **Reply #25 on:** March 25, 2009, 02:04:58 AM »

Quote from: caged on March 25, 2009, 01:47:53 AM

How good does grease work? Is it just normal cv grease or sumthing, How does it go with 800c and 20psi?
I hoped my head flange would pull in when heated but it fucken didnt

Its the only thing that I haven't had leak. It burns off and just leaves hard carbon which is why it works well. Take it easy for a while let it idle so you don't just blow it out when its still grease. It needs time to burn off to harden up.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 25, 2009, 10:46:32 AM »

Quote from: caged on March 25, 2009, 01:47:53 AM

It's surely within .005, which is good enough for grease to seal it up. No gasket obviously. Head flange I didn't surface as that will bend into shape when torqued, heated, and retorqued.
[/quote]

How good does grease work? Is it just normal cv grease or sumthing, How does it go with 800c and 20psi?
I hoped my head flange would pull in when heated but it fucken didnt

[/quote]

I used some heavy grease I bought at Autozone. Just thick high temp grease. It turns into carbon when it gets hot enough and the carbon seals up the flange. As mentioned, let it idle and drive it easy (no boost) to let it all burn into carbon.

As for the head flange, the miata uses a mulit layer steel gasket. Between that and retorqing cold after it's heat cycled a few times, my shit holds and don't leak.

SloS13 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 25, 2009, 10:49:44 AM »

learn something new everyday. i never would have thought of using grease for gaskets.

I'll check out Lowes for files

Toysrme · « **Reply #28 on:** March 26, 2009, 02:26:12 AM »

grand dad's biggest old hit & miss engine's head gasket had been blown since i was born. got tired of it one day afew years ago. sanded both the head & block down with 80 grit. sprayed 3M 77 on an aluminum level to hold the paper. used the level because it was the only thing laying around that had milled sides that were guaranteed to be flat to some degree of accuracy (not high)
traced a new gasket out of a (grossly overpriced) roll of copper from hobbylobby.
ringed it with a nickel-steel E string off a guitar by taping it to the block, installing the head & beating the shit out of it with a block of wood & 6# sledge to seat the wire.
didn't have copper kote, but used an old can of whatever GM's version of copper kote is
it gets run maybe 2-10 a year to pump water out of a spring/rain filled well when its filling too high or cut up trees, but its run without leaking since.

can't really see it in this picture, it had changed color by then and the engine is old green paint so it kinda camos it.

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Author Topic: machine work cost? (Read 53797 times)

chris