:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: malichite on October 12, 2009, 11:26:42 PM
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***Parts list still needed***
Cable D series tranny mounts, 2 side and 1 back
ECU OBD1 perfered, OBD0 will work. Will need OBD0 SOHC Distributor with it if it is OBD0
wiring harnesses, whatever will work
1 Starter d series cable style
fuel lines
coolant lines for front to back. Thinking MR2 style
long throttle cable to get to back
heim joints for rear radius rods
rings bearings and headgasket for d16a6
Well, I have been letting this car sit behind my house for a year now. I have been pondoring over how to do this for a while now and finally getting around to getting it done. So far I have pulled the tank and rear suspension. I then created a jig on the front to be able to locate the lower front cross member to where the new strut tops will need to be. Now that the jig is made, I pulled the suspension and cross member. Tomorrow I will be cutting the hole in the back and lifting the hole assembelly into the car and getting it located. Once I have that all located I will start boxing in the frame and creating a mount for the rear cross member. Hopeing to be working on fitting the engine into the back by this coming weekend. Now onto the pics.
The victim. The rear brakes were locked up so I had to drag it with the truck. Good thing those are going away.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fmain.php%3Fg2_view%3Dcore.DownloadItem%26amp%3Bg2_itemId%3D200%26amp%3Bg2_serialNumber%3D2&hash=a7b706b65143b68abd7c3ea14139c912a2887992)
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The makings of the worlds craziest strut bar.....Or a jig of some sort.
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The completed jig. It isn't pretty but it is effective.
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All the suspension bolted to the jig ready to be stuffed into the car.
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Hum mid engine D?
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Dual engine :)
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Dual engine :)
Its funny I thought about it years ago. My only problem was coming up with a solution to connect both trans together, so both could be shift at the same time.
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I have been thinking about that also. I think I am going to make matching adapters to convert it to cable shift. Then i will just run a pair of cables.
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couldn't you just run a rod to the back and attach it to the same spot on the shifter that the normal rod attaches to?
that should work
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this could possibly be awesome, or dangerous...or better yet BOTH!
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in for the shifting solution too.
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Nice! Double D's are awsome!! Your cars gona have a nice rack! Let me know if you need help with anything nig.
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this could possibly be awesome, or dangerous...or better yet BOTH!
Will it have rear steering too?
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I would try to build something with cables, personally. Synchronizing 2 solid linkages seems like it would be a huge pain in the ass to me compared to 2 identical brackets with cables going to them.
Not to be a dick but how is welding a rod in the same fashion as the stock linkage harder then building a custom shift cable set up?
If were talking shift cables you would need to figure out how to build the bracket that holds the cable in relation to the movement of the shift rod in the transmission then find a way to pull that rod in and out. also you would need to be able to center the rod. all of this is very difficult to do.
now the rod idea I'm pretty sure has been done before on a crx or something but he didn't have a front engine.
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Nice, I used to have a silver hatch just like that. Sold it to some kid in the Seattle area around 3 years ago. I loved that car, but it liked eating zc's and got tired of it after #3 or so.
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so this wouldn't work?
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I'm not saying it wouldn't work. It might work well actually if you have the throw lengths on each side the same.
why would the throw lengths be different if there connected to the same shifter at the same point?
just sound simpler to me.
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so this wouldn't work?
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It will, if you recall I think his name was Rover from ohmt. He had made the car that look kinda like a Atom but had a fwd sr20 drive train in the back of it. He did it as the picture you posted.
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i knew someone did it but couldn't remember who.
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This would truly be the baddest Civic ever if there is a turbo on each motor, 4wd, 4ws, 4 passenger, and all in a nice sleek stock looking package.
What are all your goals for this build?
Do we see a possibility of 2 Dohc ZC's with Rover VC here? (2 ZC> 1 ZC) :yes:
Roll cage?
How are you linking the clutch cables on the pedal?
Anything you need to get this done?
Post a list. ;D
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This would truly be the baddest Civic ever if there is a turbo on each motor, 4wd, 4ws, 4 passenger, and all in a nice sleek stock looking package.
What are all your goals for this build?
Do we see a possibility of 2 Dohc ZC's with Rover VC here? (2 ZC> 1 ZC) :yes:
Roll cage?
How are you linking the clutch cables on the pedal?
Anything you need to get this done?
Post a list. ;D
How do you figure it will still be a 4 passenger car?
EDIT: Quote fail. :mexi:
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This would truly be the baddest Civic ever if there is a turbo on each motor, 4wd, 4ws, 4 passenger, and all in a nice sleek stock looking package.
What are all your goals for this build?
Do we see a possibility of 2 Dohc ZC's with Rover VC here? (2 ZC> 1 ZC) :yes:
Roll cage?
How are you linking the clutch cables on the pedal?
Anything you need to get this done?
Post a list. ;D
How do you figure it will still be a 4 passenger car?
Oh yeah I forgot that you'll have to put a fuel tank in.
So does this mean a bulkhead what have to be put in to have the fuel tank/cell separate from the passenger compartment?
LSD hydro transmissions would work awesome. :yes:
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I will visit the shifter issue more once the engine is in the back and the front. As far as engines I am thinking dual ZCs. I do have two in my garage. I also have two Rover Valve covers. Hmmmm. There will most definatlly be boost no matter what. As far as the clutch I will probably be reinforcing the clutch pedal and running cable trannies. I will just man up and have a stiffer clutch pedal. No big deal giving how much of a winnie one is anyways. I am to cheap and dont want to spend to much on this project to put in two hydros. I am so cheap I wont get 1 new hydro for my del sol so two is most likly out of the question. Cable = cheap cheap cheap. I have to make one more jig tonight to help locate where the rear wheels will need to be. I have a pretty simple Idea for that one so hopefully there will be some sawing going down tonight.
There will also be a bulk head / firewall. I will be putting a small fuel cell all the way in the rear of the car that should run both of them.
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I will visit the shifter issue more once the engine is in the back and the front. As far as engines I am thinking dual ZCs. I do have two in my garage. I also have two Rover Valve covers. Hmmmm. There will most definatlly be boost no matter what. As far as the clutch I will probably be reinforcing the clutch pedal and running cable trannies. I will just man up and have a stiffer clutch pedal. No big deal giving how much of a winnie one is anyways. I am to cheap and dont want to spend to much on this project to put in two hydros. I am so cheap I wont get 1 new hydro for my del sol so two is most likly out of the question. Cable = cheap cheap cheap. I have to make one more jig tonight to help locate where the rear wheels will need to be. I have a pretty simple Idea for that one so hopefully there will be some sawing going down tonight.
There will also be a bulk head / firewall. I will be putting a small fuel cell all the way in the rear of the car that should run both of them.
What kinda of time line we looking at?
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Just use double threaded adjustable radius rods to vary your lenth of the shift rod, and not worry about it.
If your uber ghetto, you can use PTO adjuster rods for like $15.
The most important aspect of this build...it is going to be turbo'd correct? Otherwise I vote ban. :-\
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There will most definatlly be boost no matter what.
;D
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There will most definatlly be boost no matter what.
;D
hx55 feeding one engine per scroll?
There's a plumbing nightmare. :?:
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There will most definatlly be boost no matter what.
;D
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Well, no turning back now. It has more.....trunk room yeah, thats it. Got the hole cut in the floor and I am just stuffing the suspension in now to get an idea of what I got myself into. As far as timeline I hope to have the suspension and cross members located by this weekend and next week will be closing up sheet metal and getting everything welded in. Then after that it will be fit the engine in temporarily and build the cage around it. After that I have wiring and plumbing to take care of. I figure it is still months away from completion but I am setting daily goals and trying to hit them. Hopefully that will keep the motivation high. Anyways, back to work for now and I will post pictures up once I am done tonight.
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does anyone remember a certain twin engine Tiburon in SCC several years back... had two engines basicly stock making a little over 300whp each. ran 10s, looked stock... murdered all (drag/street racing/burnouts)...
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Twin Engine Tiburon RD (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yofZIcTkCiw#normal)
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Big boy legos
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does anyone remember a certain twin engine Tiburon in SCC several years back... had two engines basicly stock making a little over 300whp each. ran 10s, looked stock... murdered all (drag/street racing/burnouts)...
My first thought when first started reading this thread. ;D
Yeah I remember the article 10.96sec 1/4 mile and the gross display of power part. B/c they alcohol fuel they had a terrible gas mileage.
Did not do too well with the Grandma test. :?:
Skidpad number were ok. This was the first SCC challenge and the shity thing they allowed a Ferrari (a mag sponsor) to be entered.
The Ferrari ends up winning the challenge. The only mod on the Ferrari was wheels and tires.
I wish Modified mag. who took over SCC remaining staff should keep this challenge going. My favorite articles from SCC was about the challenge.
Now all I see is Drift, Time attacks, and some drag racing of next to exotic cars in "tuner" type magazines. Import mags. starting to really suck. :?:
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Sell me the black rear speaker pods, nog.
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www.durocco.com (http://) (http://) (http://)
Yes it's a VW worth half a shit.
Thats where I got the idea :)
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Sell me the black rear speaker pods, nog.
We will see. I am actually hoping I can close it all up and make it look "stock"
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You've been quicker than me....
Since my Teg is quite rotten bodywise, I wanted to drop my B18T in a Festiva or swift or micra in RWD position.
Keep on rockin
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Forgot to put this pic up 8)
Not Quite!
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Join the intake and exhaust systems and run a huge fucking single. GO!
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maybe i missed it but can someone explaine how the transmission and shifting will work etc..i have an idea but its probably wrong
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Nice job so far, it looks like you thought before you started cutting. I'd probably just puss out and run a 3G Prelude box with a modern B-series and rear-only driveline. If it was dual engine the front one would be a slushbox so I didn't have to fool with it.
www.durocco.com (http://) (http://) (http://)
Yes it's a VW worth half a shit.
That's primarily because it's chassis/suspension/engine design originated outside of the 1990-2006 failure era.
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That's primarily because it's chassis/suspension/engine design originated outside of the 1990-2006 failure era.
Corrados dont count, since they are a scirocco in disguise. :noel:
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There used to be a white 1st Gen CRX with twin accord motors running around. Super Clean car, I saw it at the SCCA Divisionals Harrisburg PA in 95.
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That's primarily because it's chassis/suspension/engine design originated outside of the 1990-2006 failure era.
Corrados dont count, since they are a scirocco in disguise. :noel:
IIRC those started in '89, which means the design was on paper in '87-88. Not a failure era car.
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Anybody want to donate the entire front suspension off of an ed in the WA area? :yes: I will be heading to the junk yard tomorrow to cut off some front strut tops and collect some parts. Hope to get the rear end all located this weekend and have it bolted/welded in.
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sweet. in for moar pics
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pretty bad ass.
the hyundai is the only cool hyundai in the universe.
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pretty bad ass.
the hyundai is the only cool hyundai in the universe.
Not really. There's some pretty cool interchange between Hyundai and Mitsu if you wanted to get crafty, and the new Genesis doesn't suck at all.
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pretty bad ass.
the hyundai is the only cool hyundai in the universe.
idlk, the Genesis is pretty neat.
Looks like a cool project.
Ninja edit: damn you JD. And I didn't think of the interchanging either. I remember seeing some of the older hyundai hatches with 4g63t's in em. :yes:
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Today a "used to be" beautiful crx made the ultimate sacrifice and gave it's front suspension, cross member, brakes and strut tops to AWESOMENESS. Thanks AJ for the reference to Yank-a-part. Those guys rocked! I now have the front sheet metal strut tops so I can weld those in the rear. The bandsaw is ripping away right now on some square tubing for cross member mounts as I type. I am hoping to have the cross member bolted in tonight so I can start the sheet metal work on the strut tops and get those polished off. I will post some pics up a little later tonight.
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badass project, very interested in how your going to do the shifter set-up
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what did they charge you at yank-a-dick?
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2 hundo. You free tomorrow nig? I may need a hand.
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No man... :'(
Sorry I have to go to olympia tomorrow. I thought it was today but I was wrong. So I spent the whole day pulling the engine out of this geo tracker. Man this thing is easy as fuck to work on. Probably the easyest thing I have ever worked on besides a civic. I pulled the motor today and and now I have to swapp all the parts from the bad block over to the good one. Im making $600 to do the swap. I got about 4 hours into it so far. Once all said and done I figure Ill have 15-20 hours into it. Also repacing every gasket, doing a valve adjustment, new plugs, wires, cap rotor, and cleaning the whole thing up like new.
Man I wish I had some free time in the next 3 weeks. I would love to bring the mig down and help out. :'(
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I like Trackers, always wanted to turbo one. They don't suck in the snow, either.
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I like Trackers, always wanted to turbo one. They don't suck in the snow, either.
The guy im doing the swap for got it new in 89, it only has about 91k on the clock. His son ran it low on oil and it has a knocking rod. Other than that its CLEAN.
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fuckers quoting my altered posts.
looking forward to this build. ever thought about using automatic trannys?
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I know it doesn't really apply since you are using two different drive lines, but this is an answer to a question I've had for a while.
http://www.holy-cow.org/faq.html (http://www.holy-cow.org/faq.html)
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Well, started out by getting the sheetmetal bolted to the jig. I then located the crossmember and made some mounts for the rear cross member. Ended up having to do some more cutting in the fender wells to clear the upper control arms. Next I need to start working on the sheetmetal and closing up the wheelwells.Got to admit, it looks wierd seeing the rear wheels turned :) I will address that later.
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where in WA do you live ??? I want to check this build out sometime
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Port orchard. Feel free to come on down. Just bring beer O0
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Port orchard. Feel free to come on down. Just bring beer O0
U buy the beer :(
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fair enough :) The fridge is full you broke bastard ;)
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where in WA do you live ??? I want to check this build out sometime
be careful, hes a toucher :?: Might want a block parent close by.
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I was sweaty palm excited over this until I saw the CRX. Fuck that thing, show me the CRX. :noel:
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this looks like the beginning of an epic road/track monster!!! Love it. Big kudos in taking this on!!
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I was sweaty palm excited over this until I saw the CRX. Fuck that thing, show me the CRX. :noel:
Dude, that's the one he just took a sawzall to in order to build this monstrosity.
A moment of silence for the fallen 1G crx...
:'(
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I was sweaty palm excited over this until I saw the CRX. Fuck that thing, show me the CRX. :noel:
Dude, that's the one he just took a sawzall to in order to build this monstrosity.
A moment of silence for the fallen 1G crx...
:'(
Wrong. The one I took a sawzall to was in a wrecking yard. The 1g is another project of mine that is waiting for an 88 integra to give up its weears to. It will be a work of art when complete, however as of now it sits waiting for my motivation and some parts to be donated to it. The crx I cut up had been tboned and was a total loss.
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Wrong. The one I took a sawzall to was in a wrecking yard. The 1g is another project of mine that is waiting for an 88 integra to give up its weears to. It will be a work of art when complete, however as of now it sits waiting for my motivation and some parts to be donated to it. The crx I cut up had been tboned and was a total loss.
Apologies for the accusations of treachery.
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Thats right, I am not THAT much of a monster. Besides, the strut tops are completly different on the 1g. Wouldn't work for what I am doing.
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Might have missed it... but are you going to do all wheel steering too? that would be straight up gangster
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not right now no. I think it will be enough driving this thing with regular steering
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It's not a bus, it doesn't need all wheel steering.
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as far as the transmission...
1: use your stock D, and track down a 4age mr2 tranny
2: send both trannies to mistabone and in each transmission, have gears 1-5 synchronized (gear ratio's) so you dont have one engine going faster in 1st gear then the other
3: get an adapter plate from WEIR, bolt up the mr2 tranny on the rear D and "booya grandma" problem solved.
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as far as the transmission...
1: use your stock D, and track down a 4age mr2 tranny
2: send both trannies to mistabone and in each transmission, have gears 1-5 synchronized (gear ratio's) so you dont have one engine going faster in 1st gear then the other
3: get an adapter plate from WEIR, bolt up the mr2 tranny on the rear D and "booya grandma" problem solved.
wat
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as far as the transmission...
1: use your stock D, and track down a 4age mr2 tranny
2: send both trannies to mistabone and in each transmission, have gears 1-5 synchronized (gear ratio's) so you dont have one engine going faster in 1st gear then the other
3: get an adapter plate from WEIR, bolt up the mr2 tranny on the rear D and "booya grandma" problem solved.
Thrust loads in the transmission are reversed, it lasts 500 miles tops.
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as far as the transmission...
1: use your stock D, and track down a 4age mr2 tranny
2: send both trannies to mistabone and in each transmission, have gears 1-5 synchronized (gear ratio's) so you dont have one engine going faster in 1st gear then the other
3: get an adapter plate from WEIR, bolt up the mr2 tranny on the rear D and "booya grandma" problem solved.
please stop typing.
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as far as the transmission...
1: use your stock D, and track down a 4age mr2 tranny
2: send both trannies to mistabone and in each transmission, have gears 1-5 synchronized (gear ratio's) so you dont have one engine going faster in 1st gear then the other
3: get an adapter plate from WEIR, bolt up the mr2 tranny on the rear D and "booya grandma" problem solved.
or run $50 d series trans front and back from the wrecking yard, use rest of the monnies on pizza, beer, turbos, 450s , and race gas.
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as far as the transmission...
1: use your stock D, and track down a 4age mr2 tranny
2: send both trannies to mistabone and in each transmission, have gears 1-5 synchronized (gear ratio's) so you dont have one engine going faster in 1st gear then the other
3: get an adapter plate from WEIR, bolt up the mr2 tranny on the rear D and "booya grandma" problem solved.
Stop D-series motors run CCW and Toyota trans. are designed for CW rotating motors so not a good idea. ;D
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Also, the 4a trans had thrust issues and will shit the brick before d's trans will.
The trans to have is the S-trans from mr2 turbo. Input shaft is as big as supra's and hold more power than people think they will. Mate a 4g63 to a mr2 turbo trans and you have one badass setup there.
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You'll have to do custom cables for throttle anyways, but that would be easy enough. I'd stick to a mechanical shift linkage.
If you rig up a shifter bar like shown, and make sure the throw ends up being the same (several ways to design it in), it will shift just the same. I'd recommend good sealed bearings at the shifter and some VERY hard mounts, since the main problem will actually be from the engine torquing. In other words, the stabilizer bar will be the harder part to replicate. One way to combat that is to make the rear shift throw shorter (engages quicker), and add in a rubber or spring so it can compress so slightly after engaging, to account for any engine movement.
I wouldn't worry about "desyncing". You won't get a perfect 1:1 based on weight trasfer alone [deforming tires]. If one engine desyncs, it will just act like it's an AWD system being fed more or less torque to one end. So one engine will be slightly more loaded than the other. If one is 50rpm behind at redline, it will just be shifted that much before it's own redline.
Forgot to say, I'd actually run a hydro clutch system. Less pedal effort, easier to design, and - you can use something similar to a line-lock to keep the rear clutch out if you want to run 2wd with one engine off. The t-out bearing wouldn't be moving, since the PP isn't with engine off, so no added wear.
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This could be the most gangstur project evar
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Well, I have been sick as hell for the last 4 days but I finally got out and back to work. Started working on patching in the sheetmetal around the rear strut towers. I also decided to toss the engine in again sense I now know where it is going to sit. Looks like I am going to need to do a big notch in the frame on the drivers side to make room for the crank pulley as well as a little bit of persuasion with a hammer on the passenger side to make some room for the tranny. Good thing I didn't decide to try this with B's It's already a tight fit.
Also, way harder then I could have predicted, but it is a fucking pain in the ass trying to move the trans and engine around in the back of the car. I wasn't paying attention and almost buckled the roof with the cherry picker. I think when it comes down to really stuff the thing in there I am just going to persuade a few friends with beer and pizza to come muscle the fucker in there. Anyways, off to the picks.
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nice project. Could you maybe one just the one alternator up front. Then you wouldn't really need the crank pulley in the back. Just an idea. Keep up the good work.
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Was already planning on only running one alternator. I think you still need the pully for balancing though. Also either need it or need to make something to hole the timing gear on.
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My labor= you welding my exhaust up for me..... Sound Like a deal?? lol
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Think outside the box...again. Since you have a roof over your engine, secure the front of the car, and use the hoist to pick up the car itself. Lay the motor on some wood (on ground), and lower the car onto it. If you built a dolly for the motor, you could keep it upright ready to bolt in, and move it where ever you need to.
I'm sure more than a few of us have done that with their Hondas, jacked up the front, support it with a few 2x4's in very unsafe locations, and push the engine in from the front or side while praying. :mexi:
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I'm sure more than a few of us have done that with their Hondas, jacked up the front, support it with a few 2x4's in very unsafe locations, and push the engine in from the front or side while praying. :mexi:
Yeap guilty.
Still do this except instead of using floor jacks I have to use scissor jacks for the 4x the required time to pull and replace a motor. ;D
Jack stands!!!!!! we don't need no stinky jack stands......................this is rhmt we use 2x4's and leftover beer cans. ;D :mexi:
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Will probably do that later. At this time I dont want to move the car around to much until I finish getting everything braced and solid.
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I'm partial to 4x4's and cynder blocks myself now. More stable, can "catch" more parts of the car to sit on.
Just make sure you elevate the car in the end and do the whole level & plumb bob. When guys change their rear suspension on their rwd monsters, it's just a simple string/weight/tape affair. Just don't peel the tape up or erase marks on the floor before you're done...
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Where are the fucken updates?
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he got swine flu
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really? bummer. I was thinking of calling him tomorrow and see if I could come by and check it out.
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Okay, I call dibs on his 1G if he kicks the bucket.
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as far as the transmission...
1: use your stock D, and track down a 4age mr2 tranny
2: send both trannies to mistabone and in each transmission, have gears 1-5 synchronized (gear ratio's) so you dont have one engine going faster in 1st gear then the other
3: get an adapter plate from WEIR, bolt up the mr2 tranny on the rear D and "booya grandma" problem solved.
Thrust loads in the transmission are reversed, it lasts 500 miles tops.
woops
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No not really, lol
He just said he was sick for a few days. Im open on the 17th, if you want me to come down with the mig and put down some sloppy bird shit weilds if you want! :noel:
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Bitches I'm back. I was out with the sickness for a while. Not sure if it was swine but meh. Drank the shit out of some codeine cough syrup and I am good again. Hope to get some more work done on it this week.
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I'm sure more than a few of us have done that with their Hondas, jacked up the front, support it with a few 2x4's in very unsafe locations, and push the engine in from the front or side while praying. :mexi:
Yup did this with a friends H-swapped Ek. except we lifted it with a forklift and held it up with Styrofoam block under the rockers. Dvst8r was the one praying.
Awesome build dude can't wait to see some more progress.
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I'm sure more than a few of us have done that with their Hondas, jacked up the front, support it with a few 2x4's in very unsafe locations, and push the engine in from the front or side while praying. :mexi:
Yup did this with a friends H-swapped Ek. except we lifted it with a forklift and held it up with Styrofoam block under the rockers. Dvst8r was the one praying.
Awesome build dude can't wait to see some more progress.
I did the above, only because the said friend with the H swapped EK has nice tits.
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I'm sure more than a few of us have done that with their Hondas, jacked up the front, support it with a few 2x4's in very unsafe locations, and push the engine in from the front or side while praying. :mexi:
Yup did this with a friends H-swapped Ek. except we lifted it with a forklift and held it up with Styrofoam block under the rockers. Dvst8r was the one praying.
Awesome build dude can't wait to see some more progress.
I did the above, only because the said friend with the H swapped EK has nice tits.
If said friend is a chick, do you have picts? ;D
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I'm sure more than a few of us have done that with their Hondas, jacked up the front, support it with a few 2x4's in very unsafe locations, and push the engine in from the front or side while praying. :mexi:
Yup did this with a friends H-swapped Ek. except we lifted it with a forklift and held it up with Styrofoam block under the rockers. Dvst8r was the one praying.
Awesome build dude can't wait to see some more progress.
I did the above, only because the said friend with the H swapped EK has nice tits.
If said friend is a chick, do you have picts? ;D
She is, I moved away a year and a half ago, but Brine04 probably has some from face book or something like that.
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Whoa dude, I didn't think you were actually gonna do this.
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Do WORK!
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Whoa dude, I didn't think you were actually gonna do this.
Yup, this is all your fault !!!!
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Whoa dude, I didn't think you were actually gonna do this.
He owns a 1G. Nothing is beyond his reach.
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The only way it would have been any cooler is if he would have done it in a 1st gen crx :)
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I'm sure more than a few of us have done that with their Hondas, jacked up the front, support it with a few 2x4's in very unsafe locations, and push the engine in from the front or side while praying. :mexi:
Yup did this with a friends H-swapped Ek. except we lifted it with a forklift and held it up with Styrofoam block under the rockers. Dvst8r was the one praying.
Awesome build dude can't wait to see some more progress.
I did the above, only because the said friend with the H swapped EK has nice tits.
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??? ??? ???
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The only way it would have been any cooler is if he would have done it in a 1st gen crx :)
I think Car and Driver did in the 1980's. They paid a shop to do it for them though, and had to sell the car to pay for the shop fees. Didn't use D's tho, they used whatever was in the mid 80's accords.
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in for the updates
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why cant this be done! i want to see it move
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Here's an article about the Car and Driver CRX
http://www.carlustblog.com/2008/02/car-lust--twin.html (http://www.carlustblog.com/2008/02/car-lust--twin.html)
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Here's an article about the Car and Driver CRX
http://www.carlustblog.com/2008/02/car-lust--twin.html (http://www.carlustblog.com/2008/02/car-lust--twin.html)
Awesome find, thanks. Its too bad they left both motors stock. Coulda been really frighteningly fast. Like this project will be.
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Here's an article about the Car and Driver CRX
http://www.carlustblog.com/2008/02/car-lust--twin.html (http://www.carlustblog.com/2008/02/car-lust--twin.html)
Awesome find, thanks. Its too bad they left both motors stock. Coulda been really frighteningly fast. Like this project will be.
what was in those, a ew?
Stock, yeah. I forget the Accord/Prelude engine designation of that era, could be one of the A18's.
In the 70s and early 80s the Accord/Prelude was the big brither chassis to the Civic that the Integra became in the 90s (1G Integra is a parts bin Civic).
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It's too bad they didn't use the fuel injected 88+ D16A1's in that thing. I hat an 88 rat with a 4-spd auto, and it was actually fast enough to have fun in. Two in a crx would have been really nice.
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updates?
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Bizump.
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Sorry, been swamped with a bunch of other shit. Had to build an exhaust for a celica and a bunch of other shit around the house. I did get to pieces of 1 3/4' .125 wall DOM bent up for the notches though. Got the engine back out of the back yesterday and now need to start fitting the notches in. I will try to get some pics up when I get that going. I also finally got the title for my 1g CRX so I have been spending a little bit of time on that trying to get it driving also.
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Well, got out to the garage for a little bit today. Got the first piece of DOM cut and fitted. Also got it welded in. Next I need to get the other one put in and then cut out the frame underneath. Still trying to finish how I want to finish everything and how much I want to cut out.
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It's good to see some more progress.
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Yeah, been so busy it has been hard to get out, but even if it is little progress it is still progress.
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Might have been mentioned already, don't remember, but do you plan to wall off the rear engine from the rest of the car?
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Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.
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Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.
after all of the shit i have been through lately with hydro clutchs, i would say its worth it to make a bracket to use rear calipers on the rear wheels.
i have just spent a week messing with a pull type slave cylinder so i can use this cable LS tranny in my eg coupe. turns out that the stock master cylinder is way too small to move it any substantial amount. i ended up getting the innovative kit that mounts the stock slave cylinder under the clutch arm and comes with a heim joint to bolt to the arm about halfway down. problem solved and cheaper than the pull slave i bought.
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Everytime you update this thread I have an after sex cigarette.
:noel:
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Might have been mentioned already, don't remember, but do you plan to wall off the rear engine from the rest of the car?
Yes. I plan on walling it off for and above so I can still see out the rear window. Either that or a firewall engine height with a plexi shield to the ceiling above that so I can still oggle at it :p
Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.
Not sure yet. Probably run fronts in on the rear as well as the front. Thinking I will use a larger master cylinder probably a willwood with a willwood adjustable prop valve. I'm also thinking about getting a line lock for at least the fronts if not two one for front and back. I'll then be using one of these parking valves for the parking brake sense there will be no cables in the rear.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php)
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Might have been mentioned already, don't remember, but do you plan to wall off the rear engine from the rest of the car?
Yes. I plan on walling it off for and above so I can still see out the rear window. Either that or a firewall engine height with a plexi shield to the ceiling above that so I can still oggle at it :p
Just curious what your brake setup will be, hope I didn't miss it. I'd hope you're going for something like a 15/16" with a 10.3" or 11.1" front and 9.4" rear to keep it balanced. I'd guess that a 1" MC would almost be required to fill 4 front-sized calipers.
Not sure yet. Probably run fronts in on the rear as well as the front. Thinking I will use a larger master cylinder probably a willwood with a willwood adjustable prop valve. I'm also thinking about getting a line lock for at least the fronts if not two one for front and back. I'll then be using one of these parking valves for the parking brake sense there will be no cables in the rear.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php)
In for tech on installing and using the above valve. ;D
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looks pricey, i think the rhmt way is jamming a stick through your rim and rolling forward till it wedges against the body
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Looks like a normal high pressure valve that sells for a lot less.
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any links?
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Looks like a normal high pressure valve that sells for a lot less.
its just like a line lock. you stomp the brakes and flip the lever. it holds the pressure when you take your feet off the pedal. i dont know where you could get one thats not that or a line lock
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will this work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Biondo-Racing-LL-Line-Lock-1-8-in-NPT-Inlet-Outlet_W0QQitemZ330381437781QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cec44ab55 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Biondo-Racing-LL-Line-Lock-1-8-in-NPT-Inlet-Outlet_W0QQitemZ330381437781QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cec44ab55)
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Yes, but it'll only lock one wheel unless you totally re-do the brake proportioning orientation. Stock it's FR<-->RL and FL<-->RR, you'd have to set it to Front-Rear. Which, combined with a adjustable proportioning valve, might not be a bad idea.
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or run it of the brake master line for the back right?
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or run it of the brake master line for the back right?
ehh, not really. i do believe jd is referring to how stock ef hondas are different than most cars. each line from the master cyl doesn't go to just the front or the rear.
this car has to be different as far as plumbing goes. it all depends on how he is going to plumb the rear (another set of front) brakes. one main line to the rear split to each side, he could use one but there will have to be something creative used in place of the stock prop valve that divides flow funkily. an aftermarket prop valve and a linelock in the appropriate place would work. as far as using it as a parking brake, i don't know if line locks requrie voltage to keep the pressure isolated. it might not work once you kiill the key (i've never personally used one but seen them plenty at the strip)
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Actually, most modern cars have the diagonal setup a Honda does. That way if you experience a hydraulic brake failure you will DEFINITELY retain at least one front brake... otherwise with an old school front-rear setup you have a 50% chance of losing the front brakes, which is where most of your braking takes place, and that is bad mkay.
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most of my brake experience has been replacing rusted as hell lines on '80 and older models where a fix is cutting the head of a nail and using just the fitting to plug off the line so you can still move the vehicle. once drove an 86 nissan pickup with only the right front brake line working so i could get it to my house to fix. therefore, heed the grand wizzard's advice.
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also, i was just thinking about how the air brakes worked on my dad's old oil delivery trucks, as well as with the busses that i drive now. they apply the parking break which is air operated and it keeps pressure even with the vehicle turned off. if they make a mechanical style line lock for hydraulics, then i'd say that would work fine for a parking brake. again i don't know how the electric style work, so that might work fine too
someone enlighten me, as i don't have time right now to search the difference
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It occurs to me that a Honda-style diagonal brake system would work fine. Nothing carved in stone that you have to have the rear brakes locked - old school Saab had front parking brakes until the mid-80s (maybe later). Just splice in between master cylinder and the prop valve with your line lock (is an electrically operated brake solenoid a good idea?) or manual valve and let it lock one front and one rear wheel. The vehicle isn't going anywhere.
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It occurs to me that a Honda-style diagonal brake system would work fine. Nothing carved in stone that you have to have the rear brakes locked - old school Saab had front parking brakes until the mid-80s (maybe later). Just splice in between master cylinder and the prop valve with your line lock (is an electrically operated brake solenoid a good idea?) or manual valve and let it lock one front and one rear wheel. The vehicle isn't going anywhere.
i assumed that the parking brake would double as a burn out assist, front or rear, hence my confusion on what he would do for plumbing. however, with the above setup, and open diffs in each transmission, you could possibly do a two wheel burn out, one in the front and one in the rear, on opposite sides.
interesting
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My thought was to redo the plumbing front and rear, then have a line lock for fronts and a line lock for rears, for burnouts. Then have the high pressure valve for a parking brake that would be manual and not electric. However that may not be necessary. Two trannies in gear will probably hold it in place just dandy :)
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My thought was to redo the plumbing front and rear, then have a line lock for fronts and a line lock for rears, for burnouts. Then have the high pressure valve for a parking brake that would be manual and not electric. However that may not be necessary. Two trannies in gear will probably hold it in place just dandy :)
Yeah reminds me of SCC vid on Hyundai with a turbo 1.5l in frt and turbo 1.5l in the rr doing the gross display on of hp.
Put the frt tranny in revs. rear tranny in drive and watch him destroy the tires in 15sec.
Trying to find the vid. it was the first SCC.
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Was two 4g63T's IIRC.
I don't know how in depth you want to go for a parking brake setup, but Dodge Daytonas with rear disks have a small drum brake in the center of them for a parking break. Cable operated. Might be able to redrill rotors and fab something up to use the drum setup for it.
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frankly, at this point I am more worried about getting both engines in and getting it to go down the road first. Then I will worry about stopping :p :evil:
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frankly, at this point I am more worried about getting both engines in and getting it to go down the road first. Then I will worry about stopping :p :evil:
:yes:
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driving is optional, stopping is mandatory. weather its intentional or not.
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My thought was to redo the plumbing front and rear, then have a line lock for fronts and a line lock for rears, for burnouts. Then have the high pressure valve for a parking brake that would be manual and not electric. However that may not be necessary. Two trannies in gear will probably hold it in place just dandy :)
Yeah reminds me of SCC vid on Hyundai with a turbo 1.5l in frt and turbo 1.5l in the rr doing the gross display on of hp.
Put the frt tranny in revs. rear tranny in drive and watch him destroy the tires in 15sec.
Trying to find the vid. it was the first SCC.
i posted it like on the first page...
Twin Engine Tiburon RD (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yofZIcTkCiw#normal)
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So what are you doing as far as engine management? A separate Ecu and harness all fed off the main relay? 2 seperate sets of gauges. and what are you doing as far as cooling. Sorry for all the questions, I just wanted to know.
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Block filler and 2 minute driving spurts. ;D
Management would be easy, since the ecu's don't need to interface with much else. 2 boost/oil gauges would probably be the best idea at minimum.
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Boost, oil, coolant. Speedo and tach off one engine.
Extra check engine light
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secondary engine should have on/off button. for pwning newbs, and alternatively for saving gas mileage.
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secondary engine should have on/off button. for pwning newbs, and alternatively for saving gas mileage.
Im pretty sure it would not do as good on mpg with one off, due to the fact that the linkages on the two are synced. So that means one would just be compressioning around when its off, so you would have the drag of that trans/motor combo on the one running.
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secondary engine should have on/off button. for pwning newbs, and alternatively for saving gas mileage.
Im pretty sure it would not do as good on mpg with one off, due to the fact that the linkages on the two are synced. So that means one would just be compressioning around when its off, so you would have the drag of that trans/motor combo on the one running.
No you'd run one of those line-lock valves on the other engine's hydro clutch...assuming one is used. Otherwise have it pulled like an e-brake for cable trannies. The rear tranny may not like syncing, but the t-out bearing will not be moving since the engine is not moving. THe clutch disc will just be spinning in pushed-out clutch.
Otherwise some sort of detachable shift linkage where you can leave it in neutral would be cool.
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Do you disconnect your turbo when you arn't making boost? Who the fuck wants to go slow. 2 engines always O0 Actually, I will probably have a way to keep the clutch engaged on one of the engines IF I ever want to drive on one.
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I would think that some sort of way to keep one tranny in neutral would be better so as not to be keeping the TOB under a lod for periods of time...
IDK..
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I would think that some sort of way to keep one tranny in neutral would be better so as not to be keeping the TOB under a lod for periods of time...
IDK..
That, and glazed clutch.
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Who builds a car with 2 engines for MPG's? Run both all the time or don't build it.
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Who builds a car with 2 engines for MPG's? Run both all the time or don't build it.
I was thinking the exact same thing.
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Who builds a car with 2 engines for MPG's? Run both all the time or don't build it.
Yep. That would be like only giving her half of it. Balls deep or not at all. :noel:
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Yep. That would be like only giving her half of it.
That should only be legal if she's a consenting midget of legal age.
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Didn't do much this weekend on the POS. I was busy helping noslo with his eclipse. Bitch is ripping pretty good now. He did help me clean my garage though which should really help with motivation to get back to work on this thing.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F2972-2%2F101_0037.JPG&hash=f5171c84317ca37c8a929cce5bcdb20a52bd66bd)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F2975-2%2F101_0038.JPG&hash=85991e8c977c9686a085018b19f0c7ac2f5828f8)
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Cub model hanging from the ceiling FTW!!!
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Any 2nd engine mockup pics?
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Cub model hanging from the ceiling FTW!!!
This, need moar pics. What motor's in it?
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Dont tell me you put the crx outside to pull that pile of a dsm in.......
If so, loose my number :-*
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.67??? :noel:
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Cub model hanging from the ceiling FTW!!!
This, need moar pics. What motor's in it?
os .46AX
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Speaking of nitro motors, you should convert them to nitromethane fuel. Fuck that corn shit, use poison :evil:
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Speaking of nitro motors, you should convert them to nitromethane fuel. Fuck that corn shit, use an explosive fuel :evil:
fixed. :?:
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Cub model hanging from the ceiling FTW!!!
I noticed it too. They're made here in Yakima :D. That's about the only great thing to come from this place.
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One of these days I'm going to try rc planes and I'm pretty sure it will be a cub. I have tried everything else ,on road touring car and oval, off road gas and electric, and helicopters.
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That was my first hobby, ive still got a few OS and MVVS engines BNIB, haven't flown in years. I miss it
my uncle had a pretty large scale cub wit ha converted weed whacker engine.
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Do work!
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Cool fawking project
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Been busy as hell but finally got to put some time into it this weekend. I didn't like the DOM tubing notch. It didn't seem solid at all so I switched to this design. It is 1" square .125 wall steel. Seems a lot more strong in this configuration. Also started boxing it into the body a little bit. Hope to have the rest done soon so I can try fitting the engine again.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3170-2%2FIMG_5226.JPG&hash=0814c573cb8dc107b40e3193c7d19f36a191810c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3173-2%2FIMG_5227.JPG&hash=4dd0fb299be40edf60978cb40f5e219a8e4fd50e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3176-2%2FIMG_5228.JPG&hash=a0ab645261721c4f6fd2d0493c455b8b701dc609)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3179-2%2FIMG_5229.JPG&hash=a0b75eab3de2ade7e4f22c734e4546b618e837fb)
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PIMP! O0
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Awesome in for more updates. ;D
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no rippers, no care. j/k keep it up man.
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Its about time I want to see motor in already :yes:
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One of these days I'm going to try rc planes and I'm pretty sure it will be a cub. I have tried everything else ,on road touring car and oval, off road gas and electric, and helicopters.
http://www.realflight.com/new/basic.html (http://www.realflight.com/new/basic.html)
Planes are way easier than heli's...
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And for my 1000th post I give you the following. I finished cutting out the last of the body hopefully and got the rest of the reinforcement in. Gave the engine and trans another test fit and looks like it is going to fit good. I have to still make the front mount and two side mounts but everything fits and lines up great. A little tight but should be just fine.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3194-2%2FIMG_5308.JPG&hash=435d571d40a1f0ea3c8c474a87291cf5256aed81)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3197-2%2FIMG_5309.JPG&hash=0421fd312cda394ca109406d353303bbb4302414)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3206-2%2FIMG_5312.JPG&hash=ad1af9ea40349fe1dfb41847601e76945ae676ee)
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Pure sex with the holslut hanging off there!! In the rear of the car too!!!!
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looks awesome man, good work.
just one thing i just thought of.
make sure you can access the tranny drain and fill plugs
I've never met anyone who uses the fill plug.
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looks awesome man, good work.
just one thing i just thought of.
make sure you can access the tranny drain and fill plugs
I've never met anyone who uses the fill plug.
I do with a measuring cup type funnel and a hose. ;D
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Fuck that, I pull the vss, and the fill plug, and fill it throught the vss. Then when it starts pouring out of the fill plug, its full! :D All though on a cable d-tranny. I have never been able to pull the vss out. :(
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looks awesome man, good work.
just one thing i just thought of.
make sure you can access the tranny drain and fill plugs
I've never met anyone who uses the fill plug.
I do with a measuring cup type funnel and a hose. ;D
+1, I've done it this way a few times on various vehicles, including a coupld FWD's.
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Know how much it holds and just put that much in...
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Typically, I would drain it, fix the leak and then put in the correct amount. So, yes.
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nice progress. the end is not so far now.
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Fuck those vgt turbos look heavy as shit.
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looks awesome man, good work.
just one thing i just thought of.
make sure you can access the tranny drain and fill plugs
I've never met anyone who uses the fill plug.
no matter how you fill your tranny you need to access the check/fill plug. how else will you know it's full?
Top of the axle.
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Fuck those vgt turbos look heavy as shit.
50 lbs.
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looks good!
:noel:
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I'd suggest you go the extra mile for some semblance of a cage. 1 vgt flows enough to kill, while 2 reportedly have the power to massacure a small nation...
That just looks tits though. I'd say run the dp's both right out the side of the car. Aero claims they are very quiet with the vgt shut.
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Saw this car tonight. This thing will fucking annihilate anything in its path once its done. :noel:
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Do a dual vitara build and crank each to 355whp. 710whp D-powered EF.... O0
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Oh trust me, the thought has crossed my mind. O0
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Any chance of seeing this at the Dyno Day? ;D
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Oh trust me, the thought has crossed my mind. O0
Paint it metallic baby-blue as well...except with a big fat 4WD on the side.
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Any chance of seeing this at the Dyno Day? ;D
Possible. Will see how much time I have between now and then. If you make the long drive and need a place to crash, I can offer up a spot on a couch for yah. You could definatlly see it then.
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Oh trust me, the thought has crossed my mind. O0
Paint it metallic baby-blue as well...except with a big fat 4WD on the side.
I like it !!!
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Any chance of seeing this at the Dyno Day? ;D
Possible. Will see how much time I have between now and then. If you make the long drive and need a place to crash, I can offer up a spot on a couch for yah. You could definatlly see it then.
Thanks ;D
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Anymore progress? Pics?
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Paint it metallic baby-blue as well
What is this a fucking bass boat?
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i cant wait to see this thing finished and on the dyno. your gonna fuck some Nogs up!
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Paint it metallic baby-blue as well
What is this a fucking bass boat?
No it, along with my earlier reference, is to a certain black guy's "702hp" fwd d-powered wagovan. With two >350hp D's, it'd better on all levels IMO.
And all I see for bass boats around here are black, dark red/green/blue. Do you live in art-deco Miami or something?
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i cant wait to see this thing finished and on the dyno. your gonna fuck some Nogs up!
gonna suck having to pay more money for awd dyno time.
Dont need an AWD dyno :) Just run one, then run the other. Its the double cost of everything else when the time comes that will suck, double pistons, double rods, double flywheel and clutch, double injectors, double orange chicken. blah blah blah.
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i cant wait to see this thing finished and on the dyno. your gonna fuck some Nogs up!
gonna suck having to pay more money for awd dyno time.
Dont need an AWD dyno :) Just run one, then run the other. Its the double cost of everything else when the time comes that will suck, double pistons, double rods, double flywheel and clutch, double injectors, double orange chicken. blah blah blah.
Double bear sounds good though :yes:
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i cant wait to see this thing finished and on the dyno. your gonna fuck some Nogs up!
gonna suck having to pay more money for awd dyno time.
Dont need an AWD dyno :) Just run one, then run the other. Its the double cost of everything else when the time comes that will suck, double pistons, double rods, double flywheel and clutch, double injectors, double orange chicken. blah blah blah.
Double bear sounds good though :yes:
just for you my friend
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.yellowstonecountry-adventures.com%2FtwoBears.jpg&hash=be97a22e5b75123593b25be810707ea46cb52d56)
Hahahhaha I guess I had to much beer today :yes:
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A brown bear and a black bear chilling together? Kind of cool.
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A brown bear and a black bear chilling together? Kind of cool.
Actually, I think they're both black bears. Brown bears are commonly known as grizzly bears, but for both black and brown bears the coloration varies pretty widely and the names don't really hold their meaning. I've seen black bears (the species) from negrodamus black to brown to blonde, and grizzlies/brown bears do the same thing. The easiest way to tell grizzlies from black bears is that the grizz have a big hump at their shoulders thats higher than their ass. I worked with black bears a little for a while :noel:
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Any updates on this project?
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/me wants to see some moar bears
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No updates yet :( Been busy working on the house and just fucking working Will try to get some picutres of my minor progress up some time this week.
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better get on it nigger, I had a friend telling me he heard something about somebody doing a twin with a turbo on each and here is the link he sent me
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=42040020#post42040020 (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=42040020#post42040020)
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those fuckers.
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GOD DANMIT! Just got the garage cleaned yesterday. Back to the project at hand. Updates tonight!
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Lol don't get showed up by french canadians on HT.
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It's sad but I have lost a lot of modivation on this thing. I am in the middle of a remodel of the house and have two other cars I am trying to get going also. I also ran into the Locost stuff about a month back and have been studying those really hard and I am kind of ready to move on. We will see what happens over the next few days though. Now that the garage is clean I may get some motivation, but who knows. At some point I may just have to push it out or face getting no projects done.
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It's sad but I have lost a lot of modivation on this thing.
WTF As if the fab forum needs even more fail to go along with buk's thread. Fuck your house nigger, finish this asap! :P
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I havn't quit yet, I just have to walk by my poor abandoned 1G CRX to get to it. Got the tie rod ends pulled off the rack tonight. Need to figure out what thread they are so I can order some heim joints to secure the back wheels and keep them from turning.
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My guess is the threads are M12x1.25mm, nearly all of the larger bolts are 1.25mm from Honda.
If you look at that HT thread, they just welded the rear rack and adjust toe like normal. You wouldn't have to find the correct pivot point either, although if you have skillz you could probably improve the rear geometry with a new location.
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sell me the project and ill finish it..
im having my welder fixed tomorrow so ill be able to finish fabbing/welding this fucker up
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sell me the project and ill finish it..
im having my welder fixed tomorrow so ill be able to finish fabbing/welding this fucker up
I would rather crush it
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sell me the project and ill finish it..
im having my welder fixed tomorrow so ill be able to finish fabbing/welding this fucker up
I would rather crush it
YES
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Updates?
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Coming this week. Please standby.
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I certainly hope the finished project will be faster than the build thread... :'(
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Ok, long awaited status update. Went through and just check what I got so I can start getting a parts list together for the rest of the stuff I need. I will post the parts list up later tonight or tomorrow morning. Hope to have this back on the wheels by this weekend and get the sheet metal work done. Anybody in WA that wants to come over and help out you are more then welcome too. I will throw food on the grill and buy the beers. Current list of work still needed is as follows:
Put front cross member and suspension in
weld up rear rack and finish bolting up rear suspension
finish sheet metal work on rear strut towers
cut out and move front cross member forward a few inches
finish welding on the bracing
replace bad oil pump and bearings on rear engine
rebuild front engine
fabricate clutch cable and throttle cable shit
Install both engines and trannies
fabricate new rear shift linkage
come up with fuel tank/cell and plumb fuel pumps
build new dpfi->mpfi harness for front and undo old megasquirt wiring
build new wiring harness for rear
mount seats
do alignment
replace fucked up brakes
Profit
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3916-2%2FIMG00011-20100413-2037.jpg&hash=c19b665a80e037aed8e3fb676b279329728eace0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3922-2%2FIMG00014-20100413-2038.jpg&hash=e95fac83c075d7de61b252fa51b4d911671fcfd1)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3925-2%2FIMG00015-20100413-2038.jpg&hash=d4ed191d9c22d81721b807c8c913457ba46602ea)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3928-2%2FIMG00016-20100413-2038.jpg&hash=be282dd6cf0bac452dcda985cb3ec1790cdab1bb)
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Anybody in WA that wants to come over and help out you are more then welcome too. I will throw food on the grill and buy the beers.
If that was WI instead, I'd welding/rebuilding/etc this week. :-\
I'd suggest you find 2 running d15's and run straight header/a-pipe just to get it running. It'd still be faster than most single swaps, given it'd have 150-170whp AND awd. :yes:
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I have two inline ford truck fuel pumps one new one used I can send to you. :yes:
What kind of harness?
w/ or w/o vtec?
OBD1 or OBD0 connectors?
If fuel tank can still be mounted in stock location:
then use stock pump setup for front engine and sump the tank for the rear engine using an ext. inline pump.
If fuel tank can not be installed in stock location:
use a smaller gas tank and mount near stock location then sump for two inline fuel pumps.
What oil pimp do you need?
And do you need brakes for front of a civic in the rear? I may have a spare set of basic Rayobestos if I know the right model civic the front brakes came from.
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OBD1 connectors would be great. Got the stuff for one of the engines already. I also got a fuel tank now that will fit behind the seats. Those pumps would be awesome. No fuel tank will fit in stock location unfortunatlly. All suspension is 88-91 civic crx.
I have also updated the title of this thread. I would like to get this thing done before the Dyno meet. I will be working on it all weekend this weekend and next weekend. The offer still stands, anybody that wants to help wrench, come on over. :)
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If you were local, I'd be there to help for sure. GL getting it together, it's looking good so far.
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Big Thanks to 92CXyD for the contribution to the project. Fuel pumps are on the way O0 I should do something on the car to mark all who donate. I'll come up with something tonight.
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I have a walbro 255hp I'd donate, that would probably enough pump for both boosted d-series. Also pm me your address I'll stop by I'll be in your neck of the woods later this evening I think anyway. Got to pick up some more copper wire for the orings for my block.
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Man ryan if I didnt have 9,000,000 things going on this weekend/next week I would be down to help. Sorry dude :'(
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It's cool man. I will probably be dedicating every weekend between now and the meet to it. First and main goal for this week/weekend, get it rolling and finish up the structural work in the back.
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On for saturday! What time you wanna do this?
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I'll be starting around 10 in the morning probably. Whenever you feel like stopping by.
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DO WORK!
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/me is hoping to see an update later tonight or tomorrow
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narfdanarf is over here right now. We got the rear engine pulled, got the front cross member pulled, fully welded and we are welding it into the car now. Once that is done, weld the rack, bolt the front suspension in and get the whore on it's wheels. Picks later bitches
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hell yea
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Quick teaser. More to come a little later.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3934-2%2F101_4612.JPG&hash=933647b476c9623132551689ae87f667a168ca94)
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most awesome thing I've ever worked on in my life :noel:
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This reminds me of those colts with awd 4g63 swaps. Except way cooler, more reliable, and probably much faster in the end.
I bet the exhaust note is going to be fantastic.
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Ok, First off, big thanks to nardanarf. H e was a huge help and holy hell, freaken monkey upside down welder extrodenair. It doesn't look like we did much, but we got a lot accomplished. The "rear" front cross was originally put in a little close to the engine. We cut that out and got it moved forward. We also got all of the cross memeber and the braces welded up and got it welded back into the car. We then got the rear rack welded up and bolted in, all the front suspension bolted in and got it set on the wheels. Have a little bit of sheetmetal work to finish, get the rear engine mounts fabricated, get the radius rods made and put in and then wire and plumb the bitch. Shit is moving right along now though.. Also got a parts list on the front page of things I need to get this finished. I will be keeping it updated as I move along.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3937-2%2F101_4613.JPG&hash=7e4301c5748f8fa773d925da6596f14887402177)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3940-2%2F101_4615.JPG&hash=80fd3fef3100f99dcf327eaecbb3a5d2622a5ae6)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3943-2%2F101_4617.JPG&hash=6762c60e8f63ba0cbfa4600f76298393c64c5bcd)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3946-2%2F101_4618.JPG&hash=0dba75ffefeb51e62c6de25daaa7d2d310b96de3)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3949-2%2F101_4619.JPG&hash=61795674196254c1309c260b354f560f69f2f515)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3952-2%2F101_4620.JPG&hash=f73413145818e542fdd09403af867b192268e0c9)
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Oh nice, I love the progress.
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God hat looks like hacked together ASS and i WOULDN'T HAVE IT ANY OTHER WAY.
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:evil: :evil: :evil: :yes: :yes: :yes: :noel: :noel: :noel: :mexi: :mexi: :mexi: O0 O0 O0 :-* :-* :-* :o :o :o ;D ;D ;D :D :D :D :) :) :)
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I've got those D series transmission mounts you need. Hopefully I can get them out there sometime this week.
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***Parts list still needed***
Cable D series tranny mounts, 2 side and 1 back
ECU OBD1 perfered, OBD0 will work. Will need OBD0 SOHC Distributor with it if it is OBD0
1 Starter d series cable style
got all this. just have to find it. let me know what you prefer on the ecu/dizzy stuff
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Damn this shit is moving along nicely.
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I've got those D series transmission mounts you need. Hopefully I can get them out there sometime this week.
Sweeet! I can come down there and pick them up if that is cool.
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***Parts list still needed***
Cable D series tranny mounts, 2 side and 1 back
ECU OBD1 perfered, OBD0 will work. Will need OBD0 SOHC Distributor with it if it is OBD0
1 Starter d series cable style
got all this. just have to find it. let me know what you prefer on the ecu/dizzy stuff
OBD1 on the ecu dizzy would be perfect. Leed nog said he would help me tune it but would perfer it be obd1
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I've got those D series transmission mounts you need. Hopefully I can get them out there sometime this week.
Sweeet! I can come down there and pick them up if that is cool.
I'm usually back in Tacoma around six ish on weekdays. Let me know when you want to meet up. I likely won't be available Wednesday or Thursday though.
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My dumb ass just realized...this will technically be a 3.2L displacement Civic when it's done. And hopefully >4.0L by the end of next year... :noel:
Fuck a K, AND fuck a J.
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***Parts list still needed***
Cable D series tranny mounts, 2 side and 1 back
ECU OBD1 perfered, OBD0 will work. Will need OBD0 SOHC Distributor with it if it is OBD0
1 Starter d series cable style
got all this. just have to find it. let me know what you prefer on the ecu/dizzy stuff
OBD1 on the ecu dizzy would be perfect. Leed nog said he would help me tune it but would perfer it be obd1
i'll see what i can dig up
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And hopefully >4.0L by the end of next year... :noel:
Fuck a K, AND fuck a J.
F22A's?
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And hopefully >4.0L by the end of next year... :noel:
Fuck a K, AND fuck a J.
F22A's?
No 2xD16= 3.2L 8cyl of fury :evil:
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And hopefully >4.0L by the end of next year... :noel:
Fuck a K, AND fuck a J.
F22A's?
No 2xD16= 3.2L 8cyl of fury :evil:
basic logic symbols > 92CXyD
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And hopefully >4.0L by the end of next year... :noel:
Fuck a K, AND fuck a J.
F22A's?
No 2xD16= 3.2L 8cyl of fury :evil:
basic logic symbols > 92CXyD
Ok ;D
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And hopefully >4.0L by the end of next year... :noel:
Fuck a K, AND fuck a J.
F22A's?
H23-V's? :evil: But yeah F22A's would be nearly as good, although B20-V's would probably be the best bang for the buck/work.
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And hopefully >4.0L by the end of next year... :noel:
Fuck a K, AND fuck a J.
F22A's?
H23-V's? :evil: But yeah F22A's would be nearly as good, although B20-V's would probably be the best bang for the buck/work.
I like F22A's for the fact that in a civic most people would think they are D16's. Gotta love a single slammer, and apparently the heads on those are something special.
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Weekends almost over...updates!!!
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Weekends almost over...updates!!!
Linc. you should go to the PNW RHMT fluffy Crew Dyno Day and help with this 24hr buildathon 5-14.
You would be a good help with fabrication. I've seen your work. :?:
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Weekends almost over...updates!!!
Linc. you should go to the PNW RHMT fluffy Crew Dyno Day and help with this 24hr buildathon 5-14.
You would be a good help with fabrication. I've seen your work. :?:
Wish i could, just dropped 20k into the new shop and cant afford a day off :'(
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Weekends almost over...updates!!!
Linc. you should go to the PNW RHMT fluffy Crew Dyno Day and help with this 24hr buildathon 5-14.
You would be a good help with fabrication. I've seen your work. :?:
Wish i could, just dropped 20k into the new shop and cant afford a day off :'(
LOL I need to come by and check out the new shop.
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interesting.
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Any more updates Ryan?
What is left?
What do I need to bring with me for tools, parts, etc. for the 5-14 all nighter? :evil:
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http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2609439 (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2609439)
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Wow. I bet it wont even turn without sliding off the road. Still a cool build
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Local guy:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi562.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss70%2Fphotoman425%2F0501101355.jpg%3Ft%3D1272790155&hash=c73cd666e55277e0538b776405d2ea0e32ec3339)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi562.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss70%2Fphotoman425%2F0501101355a.jpg%3Ft%3D1272790157&hash=21c216ad918719631c88c289009f80061dd0cae3)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi562.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss70%2Fphotoman425%2F0501101355a.jpg%3Ft%3D1272790157&hash=21c216ad918719631c88c289009f80061dd0cae3)
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I don't think I've ever seen a square-tube roll cage...
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The whole JDM thing on the back firewall kinda turns me off
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I couldn't see wtf it was spelling, but the J must be broken.
Anyways I was thinking about the dual-motor shifter while looking at that CRX. The dual motor shift linkage will have some issues if designed as mentioned earlier. The side/side movement won't be a prob if you connect the two, but the in/out definately will. Even with rock-hard poly mounts, any bit of engine torquing where the move opposite of each other will pop one tranny out of gear. So you'll either need solid mounts, or something I have cooked up.
I was thinking you could make a linkage just like that CRX, except have the rear linkage holes severly elongated where it mounts to the shift lever. This way it will turn side/side, but can freely move 2-3" in/out. A ridgid cable like a normal shift cable would have to be mounted to the front shift linkage, anchored to the front shift stabilizer bar. Then it would have to snake back, mount to the rear shift linkage, and be anchored to the motor. That would capture the in/out movement w/o engine movement captured. With the holes elongated enough, you could practically have stock mounts and massive wheel hop w/o it pulling either out of gear. There may be a tad gained when you move side/side, but it should find it's way in gear.
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Sorry, no progress has been made :( Wife has been on my case to get our remodel done. This led to having to rip the sheetrock off one of the walls in the garge tracing wires, one of my storage shelves collapesed, my garage is destroyed and there is no room :( I do not see this getting done before the 15th. Sorry guys.
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Does this mean we have to do a 24hr. buildathon garage and car. ;D
Hey check your PMs.
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Run a D17 transmission, they are cable shift.
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Run a D17 transmission, they are cable shift.
I thought older civics were too? I'm too used to accords and most civics I've worked on were EM2's, so I've pretty much just seen cable shifters.
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I'm pretty sure everything up to '01 is rod shift. I haven't seen a 1G or 2G Civic in a while, but it's not like you can bolt D-series to those much less find parts for them.
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ah. Learn something every day.
Back on topic, +1 for using cable trannies.
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Does this mean we have to do a 24hr. buildathon garage and car. ;D
Hey check your PMs.
I don't think you want this nog to rebuild your garage. Take one look at his own...
Phate we're talking cable shift, not cable clutch. The problem with cable shift is that it requires stiff cables. You'd likely have to add 2 big fat cable-clutch cables onto the accord/k20/etc shift lever assembly you welded in. OR get 2 custom cables made. I'd rather go with solid mounts instead :?:
IMO solid mounts or a hybrid sliding rod/cable shift for the rear are the best 2 options. THe hater-tech dual motor civic uses nearly solid mounts, and it apparently works fine. However they've only tested it with half throttle, no launching, granny shifting, and the wrong ecu's.
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THe hater-tech dual motor civic uses nearly solid mounts, and it apparently works fine. However they've only tested it with half throttle, no launching, granny shifting, and the wrong ecu's.
That's faggotry.
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What the fuck is the point of having 2 engines and awd, if you aren't going to beat the fucker?
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What the fuck is the point of having 2 engines and awd, if you aren't going to beat the fucker?
Faggotry.
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It's H-T. They do things just to say they did
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It's H-T. They do things just to say they did
That's like getting your favorite porn star alone, and naked. Then NOT fucking her, just to said you got her undressed.
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It's H-T. They do things just to say they did
That's like getting your favorite porn star alone, and naked. Then NOT fucking her, just to said you got her undressed.
They're not allowed to have porn stars though, it's against their rules. :?:
So I was looking around to see what could be used for that splined shaft I was talking about. Mcmaster has a 10mm shaft+bearing for $155, I said fuck that. Then I had a great idea - S20 splined mainshaft + d15 clutch hub! Cut off the splines, weld it to one side of the linkage, do the same for the clutch hub on the other linkage half, and use a shock boot to weatherize it.
It's designed to move in & out w/o binding, offers 2" of movement, plentiful as fuck, and has very little backlash. Even if it is a tad tight, you can fix that easy with a quick sandblasting/polishing/hardening. Then you rig an accord's shifter cable to supply the in-out movement past the hub/shaft and you're golden. If you're worried about weight you simply bore out the splined section.
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I hope this provides some motivation. My sol now has a SOHV .16L in the rear:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg69.imageshack.us%2Fimg69%2F5439%2Fimg0053s.jpg&hash=59f042f4595b7cc94ffac7c34c297cf82624b609)
GX160, .163L displacement OHV :o
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Shut the fuck up?
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+1
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Who the fuck is that guy?
I have an idea. Rope, tree, wednesday.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.executedtoday.com%2Fimages%2FMichael_Donald_lynched.jpg&hash=41d21ed010d5c0894c363b84a5c5b0752d46e15f)
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I'm pretty sure everything up to '01 is rod shift. I haven't seen a 1G or 2G Civic in a while, but it's not like you can bolt D-series to those much less find parts for them.
i worked on an awd ef wagon that had a cable shift. useless in this thread since it has the married transfer case
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The double countershaft wierdness doesn't count, for all intents and purposes.
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Don't mind me, just admiring the dust collecting here. :-\
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DO work!
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DO work!
Pot, kettle, black.
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DO work!
Pot, kettle, black.
mule, donkey, ass?
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Hey what is the status on this build?
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Rod Ends, DOM Tube, and Tube Ends were ordered today for radius rods. Del Sol sale is not going as planned. CRX is for sale and if not sold by end of week will be sent to scrapper. Engine will be coming out of Del Sol in two weeks if not sold and going in the back of this. Not much progress was done for the last while due to a bunch of family shit, work, and house remodel stuff. That will all be changing now. Nigga got some motivation last Sunday while fixing an exhaust on a friends 4 wheeler and looking over the car. Also picking up a fuel tank from a guy tomorrow from his 72 Chev pickup that was behind the seat. Hoping it will work out behind my seat.
Also been spending some time working on my new Jeep. Fucking thing has ruined me and that is all I have had motivation to work on for a while.
Now fuck off you other lifeless haters that have ridiculous amounts of time to work on your shit.
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What CRX? The 1G? You'd crush a 1G?
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You can have it for $10. With all my projects around the house, it has been hard to focus. I am liquidating everything to focus on the one. Only way I can beat my ADD is to get rid of the temptation to work on other shit. That and the adderall.
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Does it run? Link me to pics?
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No engine or trans, no interior. Seats dont go with it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3820-2%2F100_4585.JPG&hash=bc2dddf42296454e9be0938f5a113fbb0a938a97)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3823-2%2F100_4586.JPG&hash=148c380cbe3877527f11a09aa8af46d3c7480e48)
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$10 is a hell of a deal
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If I catch a Greyhound out there, do you have a sawzall so I can Flintstone that shit home?
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I got a motor and trans in the garage for it. Runs more then good enough to get you home with a few stops for some sluts along the way.
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how much are you trying to sell the del slow for? Price after you yank motor?
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Not sure. Would be no motor, trans, and the Wheels would come off it. I would throw in some 16 rotas though. I dont know, few hundred.
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consider trade for 240sx LOL...I'll probably buy it for a few hundred though wife has been wantin a del sol.
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where are you located? If its in the northeast, I'd buy the CRX. I've always wanted one.
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Plates say washigton... if he was in the midwest id have both....
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washigton
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Where the gangsters aim sideways... Just like LA
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Rod ends, bungs, and DOM showed up. I wasn't sure what size rod ends to get and I was to lazy to measure, so my dumb ass went to google and did a search for heim joint size and ended up on a thread on HnT talking about how they all used 5/8 heims. Well, they look way big but what ever. I made them work and it is probably one of the most stout traction bars out their. 5/8 heims and 1 1/4 .095 DOM. Got the bottom bracket done for one side. Still need to make the other side and weld the tabs on the front cross member for them. Either way, this project is moving forward again.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3975-2%2F2010-07-28%2B09_36_09.jpg&hash=cfd95cbeab9f266c60d1d1027569a043cf528594)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3979-2%2F2010-07-28%2B09_36_28.jpg&hash=73c51e3aa459346e4b8f2c16c30f7b0da307fb07)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3982-2%2F2010-07-28%2B09_53_32.jpg&hash=5559e1cde44bf450b5d2a63c6509591964147592)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3985-5%2F2010-07-28%2B09_57_06.jpg&hash=6d575999e5dc3cc074c6d085638e8647d750f602)
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Well hello Mr. Fancy Pants.
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How much did that run you?
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$60ish if I remember correct. 2 joints and the weld in bungs were $25 shipped and the DOM wasn't much either. Steel for the lower brackets was free scrap shit from my garage. I may end up making another set for the front of the car later. Will see how they work out.
*edit*
Shit, also forgot the $25 for the grade 8 bolts, washers, nylocks and shit.
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Nice, glad to see some progress.
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Do you have an updated list of stuff you need?
Still want to work on this with you. Maybe next year I'll take more time off to come up and help.
How is the motor situation?
Did you get rest of the sheet metal in yet (rear engine bay)?
Test fit the fuel tank yet?
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As of now list is about the same. Havn't picked up the tank from the guy yet. Just been busy. Will get that this week. Sheet metal not done but not a lot left to do. Once I have the suspension 100% I will move on to that. At the moment, motor situation is the same kind of. Taking the Del Sol to a local meet on Saturday and that will be it's last drive from me. Engine comes out next week and sounds like Snarf may want it. Been seeing low numbers in 2 holes and really low numbers in another so head is coming off the ZC and I will be finding the issue. Have a new set of rings incase it needs it and ready to get a new block if necessary. Eitherway, for the time being I know the front will work. That is obvious. ZC is getting fixed and will be going in the back for the time being and I am going to get it up and running on the rear engine. That should get me chubbed up pretty good and help carry my motivation through to build a second matching ZC for the front :evil: For the time being also, I have an old beer keg that I am not using. I didn't have any where to put it so I threw it in the front of the car. Fits like a charm so it may get cut open, baffled, mounted and used for a fuel tank for now until engine #2 is complete. As always, anybody that wants to help is more then welcome. It is always nice having someone else around, even if it is just someone to bullshit with while I am working on it to keep me going. Shoot me a PM, give me a ring, I will get the beer. Lets do this!
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Well, just got back from a long vacation with the fam, and I took a few days off for my own vacation. Just finished up the traction bars. Need to head down to get some more gas and I am going to starrt on finishing up the sheet metal.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3990-2%2F2010-08-13%2B12_50_45.jpg&hash=cad61514ae5304671e35b408d7079c437dce70b9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3993-2%2F2010-08-13%2B12_50_30.jpg&hash=4e062d568c93ab416b5bcb07e554c314531f84c1)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3996-2%2F2010-08-13%2B12_50_20.jpg&hash=93ada5d5a90bab421e5e995291503049a9e5cb8d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F3999-2%2F2010-08-13%2B12_58_36.jpg&hash=09b3ac3d60e533f29267c07ab3c5d936faa05608)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F4002-2%2F2010-08-13%2B12_58_24.jpg&hash=1295308a45cef0c57a809527233fff047dda91a3)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftheforgottenserver.com%2Fgallery2%2Fd%2F4005-2%2F2010-08-13%2B12_58_17.jpg&hash=3397be278aed4d0f79dd44642ab93d6890a74475)
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Sweet I hope your getting some help with this to keep the motivation flowing. :yes: ;D
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Anybody around here got a good Mig and willing to come over with it for a little while? No flux core bull shit either. I'll provide the gas, wire, pizza, fried chicken, purple drink and or beer. My HF mig is on it's last leg and it is pissing me off.
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You jackass, I have two you can borrow. Hit me up!
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Down to help with this again sometime. PS where'd you get those rod ends for the traction bars, I am gonna have to make some one off's to fit my car with the weird/shitty positioning of the downpipe.
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Speedway motors for the rod ends
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370404536243&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370404536243&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT)
They had free shipping and came with the weld in bungs for the DOM tube. Came out a lot cheaper then speedway.
When can I come up to pick up a machine AJ? Narf, I wll be working on it after work everyday this week and probably do a bunch next weekend. You are welcome over any time.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370404536243&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370404536243&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT)
They had free shipping and came with the weld in bungs for the DOM tube. Came out a lot cheaper then speedway.
When can I come up to pick up a machine AJ? Narf, I wll be working on it after work everyday this week and probably do a bunch next weekend. You are welcome over any time.
Hit me up, you can come and get them when ever you want. I will give you the code to my garage and let yourself in if im not home. Call me NIOG!!
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Will those traction bars allow proper suspension travel? It seems like it would pull the wheel/arm backwards on extension and push it forward on compression? I don't even know how traction bars are supposed to work anyway, so I'm probably just being a tard
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They may slightly but the up and down travel is so minimum that it shouldn't be to bad.
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You have to think of a "traction bar" less as a LCA attachment, and more as the triangular LCA. If you build it right, the lower ball joint will only move in as much as it's inner mounting bolt allows it to (how unparallel it is to the car's centerline). The LCA & inner bushing will not bind a bit. You'd also need no heim joint where it attaches to the LCA. To do it right, you need to put the traction bar's chassis mount point DIRECTLY in line with the pivot of the LCA's inboard bolt.
That one looks alright, since I can't see it well, nor have I been around an EF in a while.
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It has the exact same geometry as far as measurements from the centerline of the car. As far as vertically it should be pretty close. but hard to tell as there is no weight from the engine in it yet.
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Can we have a RHMT meet at ur house in Oct? I need to rub one off to this car :noel:
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Lets do it!
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Lets do it!
Sweet make a thread :yes:
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As long as it's not during the weekend of the east coast outlaw shootout, cause my ass is going to e-town this year.
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As long as it's not during the weekend of the east coast outlaw shootout, cause my ass is going to e-town this year.
e-town as in Nj?
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yes
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yes
Im 40min away, lmk when it is!
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October 9th and 10th.
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October 9th and 10th.
You bring down your car?
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Nope. That is too far to take a car that is not up to caliber...maybe next year.
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As long as it's not during the weekend of the east coast outlaw shootout, cause my ass is going to e-town this year.
Looking at plane tix today.
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As long as it's not during the weekend of the east coast outlaw shootout, cause my ass is going to e-town this year.
Looking at plane tix today.
You coming out to?
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In for updates to this build.
Did the Buildathon get anywhere? ;D
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This thread is a cock tease.
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In for updates to this build.
Did the Buildathon get anywhere? ;D
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This thread is like softcore porn featuring two big boobs.
Double D's that will never do anything exciting. :'(
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This thread is like softcore porn featuring two big boobs.
Double D's that will never do anything exciting. :'(
+1
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Get to work