:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: ApexSilver06MR on March 07, 2009, 05:24:25 PM
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Nigga Edit : I think the diaphragm is fucked in the wastegate. Checking that shit out tomorrow. Wont go past 5psi, even with the hose unhooked off of the cdm wastegate. Last time i ran just off of the spring, it was a 14psi. Opening up wastegate tomorrow!!!
as most of you know. i put i new b20 in the teg....
im fired up to start it..
crank.... idle...die...code 7
i swapped throttle bodies with a good one that i had laying around. same shit..
checked grounds and its all good....
i cant find the way to trace back tps wiring and im too lazy to spend time searching.
help a nigga out
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shit... checked voltage at tps and ecu. its all good
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Unplug the tps all together and start the car. See it the car reacts differently.
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tps and map plugs switched?
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tps and map plugs switched?
probably a 90% chance of that being the case.
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tps and map plugs switched?
probably a 90% chance of that being the case.
cant be. map is on the driver side with the tps on the pass side
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He has 1990 integra aka map sensor is a vacuum line and the sensor is on the fiewall no reason to unclip the map on the firewall during engine removal
Unplug the tps and see how the car runs
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He has 1990 integra aka map sensor is a vacuum line and the sensor is on the fiewall no reason to unclip the map on the firewall during engine removal
Unplug the tps and see how the car runs
same shit
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as most of you know. i put i new b20 in the teg....
I didnt know what year, but dose he have a later model tb with the map on it maybe?
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90 obd0
map on firewall
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ok, well im pretty sure that that is probably not your problem then
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ok
well i hooked up the battery charger to give it a jump. The fuckin gauges went crazy and shit.... wtf is going on here. ive fucked checked everything like 10x
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Thermostat ground
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Thermostat ground
already checked and tightened over and over and over again
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alternator ground
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^^^ what alternator ground?????
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Im a dumby the power wire held by 10mm bolt.
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^^^^^
thats a power wire nog....
i finally got to prove chris wrong.. on the phone at that.. damn im a fucking gangster
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alright. took off of map sensor hose. let me remind you that this is a motorola 2.5bar map....
it idles... what the fuck is this going on. i put it back on and im back to square one......
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Those have a history of having problems
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going to see peter [turbo4life] getting a chip burned for a stock map sensor
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pay him in vodka
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describe "crazy and shit"
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tightening a ground DOES NOT magically make a dirty ground get cleared up. you only run the risk of damaging your threads.
take it off, get some 320gr sandpaper, clean the shit up and give a LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT coating on dielectric (silicone grease basically)
i was saying that just to state that i checked everything 10x.
its a map sensor problem
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new chip burned for stock map sensor.... here we go!
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aight.... fuck.... same fuckin shit...
it seems like that something is cutting back the spark when i give it gas
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pay him in vodka
i perfer cash as i can get vodka free thanks for the comment cris you nigga/
JAY shit not running dam i have to take a look at it!!
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jay take a vohm meter and check to make sure the wires to the tps are all not broken and have a connection.. ya know. then maybe swap a tb or tps i have a extra da throttle if you need and a spare tps somwehere
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jay take a vohm meter and check to make sure the wires to the tps are all not broken and have a connection.. ya know. then maybe swap a tb or tps i have a extra da throttle if you need and a spare tps somwehere
i already ruled that shit out. replaced throttle body.. same shit...
checked tps voltage at tps and at the ecu. everything checks out. main relay????
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dizzy???
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I don't know much about the setup but from the way you said it, you just put a new motor into the car that was already running? if you wired any shit up i would say double check the wires for the map sensor, A friend wired up a MAP sensor on his turbododge the wrong way, two wires were switched and it was doing the exact same thing you described where it would idle for days but if you touched the gas it stalled out.. you said it had a tps code but the voltages test out? if nothing else i would try to get a stock ecu and map/injectors and confirm it runs like that maybe.
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dizzy???
not the problem!!!!!
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alright i was going through the wiring again and i spot something... by the map and purge solenoids there is a 2 prong connector with a red and a black wire. WTF is this?
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pictures
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Check the resistor on your ecu Q21 with the plugs away from you big 3 prong resistor next to the 3 big ones that are all next to each other if its burnt the ecu is fucked i hooked my ecu up to a frends car he had wires mixed up and it fried my shit and it was acting like yours.
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vids tomorrow....
i think chris is tired of me asking for help..
sorry chris. im just hella stumped
i think it may be the throttle body....
lilpooh. same shit happens with a stock ecu as well
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does it run start up at first with new ecu then die
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does it run start up at first with new ecu then die
same exact symptoms
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hmm got me stumped i would try cleaning all grounds and major power wires
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here is the thing now....
no codes anymore what so ever..
grounds have all been checked.
think maybe a throttle body problem. i start it, rough idle, give it gas, rev's, then vacuum gauge goes to 0 and chokes unless i let go and give it light gas again.....
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Mechanical Engine timing? Do you have any way of data logging?
Not to beat a dead horse but, are you sure that the 3 wire plug that goes to the map sensor is the one all by its self, not the one in the engine harness?
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def sounds like a mechanical timing prob try a CP test
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Mechanical Engine timing? Do you have any way of data logging?
Not to beat a dead horse but, are you sure that the 3 wire plug that goes to the map sensor is the one all by its self, not the one in the engine harness?
map sensor was never unplugged........
checked mechanical timing and its all good with 250 across....
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take turbo off
slap on stock header
stock ecu
see what happens
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Do you have a WB, datalogging? If your trying to run off a base map then that could be an issue.
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firing order
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im almost forsure that the firing order is right ...
wait... bottom left is #1 right
then clockwise
1,3,4,2 thats right, right?
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1,3,4,2 thats right, right?
its 1,3,4,2
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thats what i thought
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pics to make sure we are all talking the same bottom left
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on my way home right now to snap the pics
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi40.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe250%2FJayNLorimel%2FCIMG0332.jpg&hash=8ce847fede951b105483982634d534d1cb2cf6cc)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi40.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe250%2FJayNLorimel%2FCIMG0331.jpg&hash=ebf6be4d6919a1659677490a1994e1feb4ba9b1e)
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aight.. started it up this morning, fine. 1 min later same symptoms.
i think it may be the rom editor im using
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alright.. i think i got it.
i think the version ot TE that i have is unstable with a ng62 code base...
im going back to ng60......
took it around the block today. as soon at the car see's boost. limp mode.
the only difference from this time and last time is the new map and version of TE
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its all coming back why i dont bother messing with turboedit
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if it was fine till boost it has to be a map problem
are you sure you gut a boosted ng60 map?
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if it was fine till boost it has to be a map problem
are you sure you gut a boosted ng60 map?
thats the thing...
i used a fuckin ng62 base code..
just ordered a burn2
im going to reburn with the ng60 base code
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So whats the problem? The Mapp sensor? :noel:
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The burn
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Why are you not wanting to go OBD1?
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fuck obd1. this is a beater. only on 7-8psi. maybe your occational 10psi
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I am unsure why the boost tables are giving you issues. The boost tables are still coded the same as they were in ng60. Nothing changed. When you say it's going into limp home mode, what cels are popping up?
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I am unsure why the boost tables are giving you issues. The boost tables are still coded the same as they were in ng60. Nothing changed. When you say it's going into limp home mode, what cels are popping up?
im not getting any cel's. thats what is weird.....
its almost like a stock ecu, as soon as the stock map feels boost. it just dies, untill it goes back into vacuum.
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ok, I will email you the same bin I created but in a ng60 base. Let me know what happens! Thanks Jay, sorry for all of the trouble :-\
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ok, I will email you the same bin I created but in a ng60 base. Let me know what happens! Thanks Jay, sorry for all of the trouble :-\
cool thanks justin....
just the heads up.. im on a stock map sensor now
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alright tried a new burn on the chip and same shit
this is all without a charge pipe hooked up
the car seems to react okay when its cold,
as soon as the car warms up, it starts idling hella rough and as soon as i go to give it a little gas, vacuum gauge goes to 0 and chokes. I honestly feel like the car isnt getting enough air.
any thoughts and ideas???
im pretty stuck right now. really bad...
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I have similar issue with mine. When I press the gas pedal too fast it wants to die. When I press slowly it works well.
I can drive it without problem tho...
Can you make a video of it to see what it really does?
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turbo4life told me to unplug the ect
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got a wideband on it?
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got a wideband on it?
nope....
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im pretty sure that this cant be the problem, but i never switched this out from the old motor to the new. I totally overlooked it. I believe this is only the water temp sensor. The plug is just hanging out there not ever hooked up. I dont think this would cause my problems. Please correct me if i am wrong..
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi40.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe250%2FJayNLorimel%2FCIMG0352.jpg&hash=1db6521ac3557e0d35b755c9836ed4855208f756)
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im pretty sure that this cant be the problem, but i never switched this out from the old motor to the new. I totally overlooked it. I believe this is only the water temp sensor. The plug is just hanging out there not ever hooked up. I dont think this would cause my problems. Please correct me if i am wrong..
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi40.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe250%2FJayNLorimel%2FCIMG0352.jpg&hash=1db6521ac3557e0d35b755c9836ed4855208f756)
I believe it would cause problem because your ecu will be flooding your motor with the extra fuel that was meant to compensate for cold temps. Once motor is fully warm is runs much more effiecient and needs a lot less fuel to run good.
BTW: Does the temp gauge work normal? If it does I would think the sensor is fine but try another one anyways.
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thats the thing.. the sensor is still on the stock block which i didnt transfer to the new one.
the temp gauge seems to work fine..... i think im going to transfer this to eliminate this as a problem
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I think that the temp gauge has it's own sensor on the tranny side of the head. The 1 wire sensor, so it would have nothing to do with your car running like shit and your gauge will work fine by itself.
definitely try another ECT sensor because that's what the ecu looks for to know temp to fuel output. I'm surprised you're not getting a CEL at all.
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temp gauge is one wire sensor on the side of the head(looks like head phone jack)
that is your coolant temp gauge for the ecu or fan controle
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let me install this sensor onto the new block and see how it is... shoot. no cels though
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That looks like the switch for the fan control. The temp sensor for the ecu is on the side of the head and it has a plug on it just like the IAT and IACV. Two wires should be going to it and it should be located in the same general area of the one wire temp sender for the temp gauge.
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let me see what i can do..
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the green one is EXTRA, its for PS shit on integras...
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shit...
fuckin same god damn shit. im about to yank off the intake mani and shit. fuck!!!!
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http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/JayNLorimel/?action=view¤t=CIMG0352-1.flv (http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/JayNLorimel/?action=view¤t=CIMG0352-1.flv)
here is the vid
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Sounds like mixed plug wires, or cam timing to me. I'd also check all your grounds. My motor sounded like that with no grounds till my solid mount wore the paint off of it.
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All grounds were cleaned, and installed back with some die-electric greese
cam timing is fine. i checked that earlier.
the thing is, it reacts fine when its the first start of the day. revs fine and steady with a good idle. as soon as it gets warm, that is what i get. That fuckin infamous shit on the damn video
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From my understand, whenever things screw up after warmed up it's from 1 of 2 things. 1 is you have a leak somewhere that doesn't show itself till the motor is warm and opens the crack from swelling, 2 if you have an electronic component that doesn't activate till till a certain temperature. Have you tried checking for stupid leaks?
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yeah ive checked for all of the leaks..
i may have a feeling about the intake manifold gasket. thats the only thing that i can think of,
im fuckin stuck. ive transfered all of the sensors from the old motor to the new as well....
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For leaks try starter fluid. GREAT check for leaks but other than leaks, bad ground, or wrong plug combo nothing makes since. Try the starter fluid but anything highly flammable will work for leaks. Other than that your as stumped as me on my buddies car. LOL
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going through the same shit huh....
i did the whole carb cleaner thing for vac leaks. fuckin clean.....
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this has to be sensor/wiring problem. Possibly ecu, try another if you have one. Also, try getting a datalogging cable and see exactly what your ecu reads and what it's doing.
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going through the same shit huh....
i did the whole carb cleaner thing for vac leaks. fuckin clean.....
Not going through the same issue but another issue I don't really understand..... May winter time is making me a little rusty?.... I just hate knowing I should be able to help someone but cant because I can't figure it out,
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I dont know Bs well. But here is a shot.
Does it have a egr?
Could it be possible that you have that mixed with a simular plug.
Datalogs help.
THIS IS PROBABLY WRONG to say. But try and find a obd1 conversion and try out a S300. They have a iraqi for every sensor for whole car. and see which one is false reading and go from there.
Or a non hacked version or eCtune
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Does the car die if you put your handover the throttle body once it is started?
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I didn't read all the responses but what does the maps look like? Have you tried to burn other maps?
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I dont know Bs well. But here is a shot.
Does it have a egr?
Could it be possible that you have that mixed with a simular plug.
Datalogs help.
THIS IS PROBABLY WRONG to say. But try and find a obd1 conversion and try out a S300. They have a iraqi for every sensor for whole car. and see which one is false reading and go from there.
Or a non hacked version or eCtune
no egr. i cant get my hulog to connect with my laptop
Does the car die if you put your handover the throttle body once it is started?
yup it does die
I didn't read all the responses but what does the maps look like? Have you tried to burn other maps?
im waiting for a burner right now. here is a copy of my map attacthed .
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Have you tried stock injectors/ecu yet?
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yeah i tried that last night as well.... with a stock pm6. same fuckin shit...
the thing thats trippin me out is that the car was running before.... i did notice why the old motor blew up. Timing jumped...
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Plug wiring, Cam timing, Valve lash, too lean. Thats what I think it could be. If it was a vacuum leak then it would idle higher like you were giving it throttle. Air is what regulates the speed of an engine. Think about it for a second.
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Plug wiring, Cam timing, Valve lash, too lean. Thats what I think it could be. If it was a vacuum leak then it would idle higher like you were giving it throttle. Air is what regulates the speed of an engine. Think about it for a second.
it seems to react fine when the car is cold.......
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Know anyone who has a stock obdo mpfi dizzy laying around? Doesnt have to be for a b series just anyone that will get one bolt on so you can see if that fixes the problem
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Know anyone who has a stock obdo mpfi dizzy laying around? Doesnt have to be for a b series just anyone that will get one bolt on so you can see if that fixes the problem
i tried that last night as well. Grabbed another one from Turbo4life. Same fuckin shit
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Plugs fouled?
your car sucks
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Any cels? how far in is you idle screw screwed in? I had a problem kinda like this a few yrs ago when I first got into fucking around with hondas. The idle screw was screwed in to far.
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Plugs fouled?
your car sucks
new ngk 7's
Any cels? how far in is you idle screw screwed in? I had a problem kinda like this a few yrs ago when I first got into fucking around with hondas. The idle screw was screwed in to far.
i brought it out all the way....
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have u used a timing light to see what your timing is when you fire it up? I know you said youve checked but idk, just throwing ideas out.
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as i said. when the car is cold it reacts fine..
i just got my burner in today so im going to play around with the chip today......I think it may have to do with something with the electronic advance
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do you have vacuum going to the map sensor? lol
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straight from the the throttle body
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sounds like a bad tune or timing
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and from running like that you will need new plugs after about 15min
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straight from the the throttle body
Which port on the throttle body?
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There is one port on the TB that does not supply vacuum iirc and I believe it is for evap
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straight from the the throttle body
Which port on the throttle body?
the smaller of the 2
There is one port on the TB that does not supply vacuum iirc and I believe it is for evap
that is the bigger nipple for the evap for the red hose
anyway.. burner came in, finally got my hondalog to work in loop back mode via hyperterminal. i should be all good...
you know what sucks. i dont have an 02 hooked up but its been disabled via TE.
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I fucking got it after 2 weeks of scratchin my head. I guess the stock pm6 that I had was bad as well. I borrowed a stock pr4 from turbo4life and it fired right up idled and was all good. Picking up a socketed ecu from him tomorrow to throw in. Then I can install the 450's back and call it a day. Thanks niggaz.
RHMT>the rest.
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this has to be sensor/wiring problem. Possibly ecu, try another if you have one. Also, try getting a datalogging cable and see exactly what your ecu reads and what it's doing.
I guess I was right after all.
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CONRATS
Good Job,on some helping out
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Here's the bins. Please try them both out!
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cool thanks nog
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No problem call me as soon as you try them out!
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No more 15 psi pulls ;D
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No more 15 psi pulls ;D
BAN!
unless you mean pull harder then 15psi
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another fuckin piece of shit to go wrong. Updated first post
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exhaust leaks pre turbo or either fucked diaphram.
Check for exhaust leaks first, then take off the waste gate. Make sure that the fire ring is installed.
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A fucked diaphram will keep the wastegate from ever opening thus overboosting. My first kit the ching chang had a tear and the needle pegged my 20psi gage real fast.
I'd check for exhaust leaks and fire ring like mentioned above. My wastegate came loose once and gave me low/late boost.
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Fuckin pre-turbo leak. Got the svo gasket set from kragen for $10. Came with hella other gaskets as well. Good buy. Updates tonight with hopefully 10psi ripper vids
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Cant wait to see some video footage
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A torn diaphragm would make it boost more not less, Sounds like a boost leak.
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I am glad to hear it's finally running right! Now get to work on your CRX :yes:
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I am glad to hear it's finally running right! Now get to work on your CRX :yes:
i will do in a few weeks coming up....
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I am glad to hear it's finally running right! Now get to work on your CRX :yes:
i will do in a few weeks coming up....
i need my jdm green paint b20 with a hole in it plus
my dizzy for my crx
lets go do som dirty pulls
my b16 is rev happy
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I am glad to hear it's finally running right! Now get to work on your CRX :yes:
i will do in a few weeks coming up....
i need my jdm green paint b20 with a hole in it plus
my dizzy for my crx
lets go do som dirty pulls
my b16 is rev happy
im fuckin stuck at work untill midnight tonight.
you can come by tomorrow. do you still have the non vtak head?
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Make sure the problem isnt the gauge too.