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My main problem is that I have yet to find anything that's specifically for the FE3N. It's all measurements and see what's available for other cars. I ordered the +1 Miata BP05 valves from fab9. I'll check all measurements when they arrive before ordering springs. I measured an installed height of 33mm(ish) BP05s look like they have between a 34mm-35mm depending on source. Again looking at supertech catalog for single springs and I'm seeing the BP, RB20, Honda B18A/B, B20, RB25, VG35DET, 1JZ,2JZ, MZR 2.0,2.3,2.5, and Turbo, duratec 2.3,2.5 all have the same valve springs with an installed height between 33-35mm. Which are close enough in specs to fit the FE3N. According to my measurements The valves and springs are within the total range of the cam's 10.7mm lift.  The valves are 1.4mm shorter but the Miata single springs are good for 12.9mm max lift.

I’m guessing their games only load to 66%

1300whp is in the works. Sorry to disappoint though.

https://www.hotrex.com/

Do... Do you think they have any idea?

Needs more 2000 whp content

I'm building my own solid lifters and sending the head out to be pressure tested and the valves done.

Measured the weight of a bucket and lifter full of oil and bled of air

jig to evenly cut holes from the lifter bottom to access the oil hole for pinning as well as weight reduction



before and after weights


final weight with a 2.4mm lash spacer

using 1/16" brass rod to plug the oil holes

subbed kind sir

Mucho appreciation

I bought it from a guy parting out his build. He contacted the place that built it. Petty much a "that sucks" response.

What the fuck? Have you contact this machine shop yet?

I had a 4 day weekend over labor day and was so excided to get this build motor in... WAS... pulled the old motor out. cleaned everything up, swapped the head studs, installed new oil pump, water pump, turbo feed and drain lines on. check check all the valve clearances on my "Freshly ported/machined" head that I paid a lot of money for and they were all over place, no worries I just need to pull lifters to see how the "custom solid lifters" are adjusted. That's when the shit show started. the "solid lifters" are nothing more than hacksawed bolts that aren't even close to smooth or flat, the oil feed port to the hydraulic lifters was not plugged on any of them, a crude channel in the bolts made sure that all the oil pressure going through the unplugged ports in the buckets was free to bleed off onto the valve. I then water tested the valves for the first time to make sure that was at least done correctly, i mean how can a machine shop screw up valves?. Almost every one pissed all over the floor. I pulled the valves and found only 3 intake and 2 exhaust valves were even machined. not a single seat had any angles cut into them and all of them looked looked almost rounded over. the unmachined valves are so worn you can visually see the wear. all the valve springs appear to be the stock double valve springs but I don't have a testing scale to confirm or deny that. The only thing about the head that looked legit is the cams the intake has a tiny bit more lift and 80* more duration @.005" and the exhaust cam has an extra .070" lift and 85* more duration @ .005". I've been scrambling to make this thing not a boat anchor but all the machine shops are a month out and I'm not 100% sure what I'm gonna do with the lifters. Do I just stay with stock hydros? do I add shims to my hla's to make them solid and pin the oil hole shut or do I spend another $1000 on a legit set of solid buckets and shim them properly.