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I wish,  it's either a valve/valve seat contact issue or weak valve springs.

Finished the valve adjustment and thought id check for boost leaks with the cam out. The fucking intake valves are leaking,  guess the head is coming off. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/lZqo_hRmizs?si=bWp1XdN-0m9gqYBo

Does that mean another 40dollar bucket shim kit again?

Finished the valve adjustment and thought id check for boost leaks with the cam out. The fucking intake valves are leaking,  guess the head is coming off. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/lZqo_hRmizs?si=bWp1XdN-0m9gqYBo

Home made solid lifter update. Im getting ready for an actual chassis dyno tune so I'm going over the whole motor to make sure im getting my money's worth.  Step one was check valve clearance since these are experimental lifters that I made at work 3 years and probably 15000ish miles ago. I've been on the 500whp(number is from a desktop dyno program using the last street tune, weight, area, gear ratio, etc) for about 2 years. As far as I can see, the oil port blocking pin is still secure, it has caused no wear in the lifter bore. There is no wear that I can feel on either the puck or in the hla body.  It's just shiny in the contact area.  Im gonna say the downsides are buying $40 big shim kits to only use a small fraction of the shims and the actual pain that it is correct it off is off. I have to measure valve lash with a feeler gage, write down the clearance,  pull the cam, pull the lifter, measure the the total lifter, height, remove the hla from the bucket, measure the shim, find a shim the correct size,  reassemble the hla and bucket measure the overall size to confirm,  reinstall the cam and double check to make sure everything worked out.

i have people messaging me constantly about this motor i'm bulding two of them they are 20+ hp

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdUrMPZ30GE

build another one same specs.

i have two people wanting me to build 20+hp engines

the difference is a racing cam and built heads with smaller chambers and bigger valves and ports. the heads are only $189 bucks

im in the process of building one now just waiting for the cams to come in the mail

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxEMRTU_qY4

In retail parts business, absolutely hates CS alternators, guaranteed warranty return.

I preferred the older SI family of alternators, if keep it in the GM group.

I use to run a 165amp alternator from '85 Fleetwood brougham, in my '77 GMC 3/4 LWB van. 

Never had issues for 10 years, 3 wire 2 wire are just like the older 2 wire SIs, 3rd wire was ECU (ELD circuit) I believe.   

Part of the problem CS alternators is not enough housing to absorb and manage heat from charging.

the large CS alternators used in 18 wheelers were a lot more reliable. 

The stupid alternator started cracking again. This is the last attempt to keep the CS130 GM 1 wire style. If the reinforcing cracks I'm going back to a Denso. I really don't want to have to redesign the mounting bracket for the 4th time.

That's awesome.

here is link to full build in 5mins, its at 40x speed. it takes me about 1.5hrs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM6csH-1fo8

Nice!!!