Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Jorsher]

Got the LS-VTEC together.

Tried starting engine, firing order was off, corrected that and it started fine.

Drove down the street, started part throttle/part RPM a few times, then opened it up.

Got to the end of the road, turned around and started coming back, noticed the temp was about 3/4 of the way up, halfway between "normal" and "hot."  Turned the car off.  Wouldn't start back up but that was due to a ground problem.

Jumped it, drove it home, was dark and late at night, parked it and went home.

This morning went back to it, went to put in fresh oil.  Noticed on the back of the block there was oil everywhere.  Assumed it was maybe the oil filter hadn't sealed completely, however when I took it off it was very fucking tight so I doubt this is the problem..  Drained the oil, and only got a quart back.  Changed filter and put fresh oil in.

Started the car with the radiator cap off as I assumed there was still air in the cooling system and was going to bleed it out.  Within 10 seconds, the radiator started overflowing.  It seemed like it was overflowing straight oil.

The little bit of headgasket that was sticking out the cam side seemed to have a little bit of oil seeping out.

At this point, I was assuming the headgasket was bad, which is strange since it's a brand new cometic headgasket between a resurfaced head and block, torqued down to 85lbs with ARP head studs (that's what their info sheet said).

Started taking the head off and there was also coolant in the head.

Got the head off, the headgasket seemed covered in oil/coolant, which may have been from removing the head but it seemed like a little too much for it to just be from that.

The block had a small crack in the outer cylinder wall, which may have been there before but I don't remember seeing it, and think the shop would have mentioned it.

Any ideas what happened and/or what is wrong?


"Burn" marks seem fine?  Don't see anything that looks weird in the cylinders.


The crack in cylinder 3.  You can see the imprint all around the block/head from the headgasket, so I'm assuming it sealed just fine, however I have no idea why coolant/oil are mixing.

At this point, I'm completely broke and still not working due to not having transportation.  Possible to reuse the block?  Possible to cheaply fix the block so it lasts at least a few months?  Possible for anyone to sell me a cheap, good, bare LS block?

[Jorsher]

Head was tapped and plugged.  I tapped a little too deep so the plug sites about a 1/4-1/3" below the head surface, but I'm just going to put it back in and fill the hole with JB weld.

I don't see how I could have mixed up coolant/oil lines, as the only external oil line is the vtec line which is definitely in the correct place.

[Jorsher]

yeah i'm just pulling ideas out of my ass

No problem, I've been doing that all day, and now I come to you guys.

[Jorsher]

Another question...

Would it be alright to use the block with that small crack for now?

[chris]

Hit it with a little sand paper to get a clear picture of how deep it is if you cant tell already.

[Jorsher]

From what I remember it was down about half a centimeter.  I will double check when it's daylight tomorrow.

I know I will need to replace it when I boost it...but if I can put it off for a few months and beat on it NA, I'd rather do that while I get some employment and money.  I have heard from a knowledgeable member here that he's seen stock blocks with small cracks, and I'm hoping I can get away with it as well but really don't want to put the damn thing back together, find out I'm wrong, and have to take it back apart.

[ryan89crx]

Both blocks that I broke the sleeves on were completely through the steel center, not just the aluminum outer sleeve. And even then, I had nowhere near the amount of oil/coolant mix that you are talking about. To be honest I had almost none at all, especially since the sleeve itself doesn't prevent oil and coolant from mixing. But one of them blew the larger coolant line off the back of the IM, which relieved pressure, and the other cracked the radiator, which would also relieve the excess coolant pressure from the added combustion forces.

I can see coolant being forced into the oil from a cracked sleeve, but not vice-versa. What PCV setup are you using? Did the cylinder head come from a known running motor?

[Jorsher]

I'm a noob, so I'm not sure about the PCV question or what to tell you.

As far as the head, I got it from Doug, I don't know what it came from and I don't know if he does either.  Are you thinking the head may be cracked?

[Doug]

I bought the head from someone on OHMT, I can't remember who but it was one of the sponsors at the time.

Jorsher LS/Vtec CRX Start Up

Jorsher LS/Vtec CRX First Drive

[Doug]

Maybe the motor got hot and when the coolant rushed into the empty cavity it caused the crack 

[Jorsher]

Haha I didn't know about that first video.

In my defense, the clutch is grippy, I haven't drove in over half a year and uhhh...it was my first time driving a 5-speed :yes:

I'm thinking it's just leaking out the back of the block.  Actually...most of the oil seemed to be where the vtec line is, wonder if that was the issue?  There was definitely oil all over the headgasket though.

I really don't fucking know.

Shitton of oil in the radiator, to the point it felt like straight oil.

Coolant in the head.

[ryan89crx]

I'm a noob, so I'm not sure about the PCV question or what to tell you.

Black box on the back of the engine, where is the hose coming out of it connected to?

As far as the head, I got it from Doug, I don't know what it came from and I don't know if he does either.  Are you thinking the head may be cracked?

I wouldn't rule it out. Is this the first you have ran it? From initial start to when you discovered a problem, how long was it ran?

[ryan89crx]

Shitton of oil in the radiator, to the point it felt like straight oil.

Coolant in the head.

You sure to tapped the head correctly?

[Ravage70]

go to the japs and get a new engine
that sleeve looks done, it will never hold power and that is way too much oil loss
start with a b18c next time if you do not know what you are doing

[Jorsher]

I'm a noob, so I'm not sure about the PCV question or what to tell you.

Black box on the back of the engine, where is the hose coming out of it connected to?

I can't tell you off-hand, but I will check it out tomorrow.  I know it's going to where it was supposed to go to according to a how-to thread.  The only hose I did not connect was from the CRX's charcoal canister to the top/front of the throttle body, because mine does not have the nipple there.

As far as the head, I got it from Doug, I don't know what it came from and I don't know if he does either.  Are you thinking the head may be cracked?

I wouldn't rule it out. Is this the first you have ran it? From initial start to when you discovered a problem, how long was it ran?

This is the first I have ran it.  It only ran for about 10-20 minutes last night.  Stopped it after 10 seconds today once the oil started coming out of the radiator.

[Jorsher]

Shitton of oil in the radiator, to the point it felt like straight oil.

Coolant in the head.

You sure to tapped the head correctly?

Yes.

The CDM sandwich adapter/dowels/line I bought came with an instruction guide that had pictures.  Mine matched everything.  I'm positive it's correct.

go to the japs and get a new engine
that sleeve looks done, it will never hold power and that is way too much oil loss
start with a b18c next time if you do not know what you are doing

I may be a noob but not a moron.  It's not rocket science.

[Jorsher]

Stopped it after 10 seconds today once the oil started coming out of the radiator.

what went through your mind when that happened?
i would have paid to be there to witness that.
not saying it's cool that it happened, just never seen something like that.

Well, I saw liquid start to come out, did not know immediately that it was oil and just quickly shut the car off.  Then once a second or two passed I realized the color looked very similar to the oil, put my finger in it and sho' nuff was oil.

As much as it sucks, I'm not going to get pissed about it.  Shit happens, just have to fix it and move on...

[Joseph Davis]

Little birdie standing over my shoulder says you put the headgasket on backwards, upside down, sideways, some sort of fucked up.

[Jorsher]

Cometic engraves "Up" onto the top of the gasket, and I'm not stupid enough to put up facing down.  Also, the imprint left on the head/block is how it should be around the water jacket and oil passages.  C'mon JD, give me a little credit, I've installed at least 5 head-gaskets, which I know isn't a lot, but I've never had any problems.  I made sure the holes on the block lined up with the holes in the headgasket, and made sure the side that said "Up" was Up.  Look closely at the picture of the block, the top part that's in focus you can clearly see where the imprint of the headgasket matches the block orifices.

Tell you're birdie he's full of shit.

Should that oil jet be removed from the block like it has to be done on D series with a vtec head?  I'm assuming not since D-series don't require all the sandwich adapter and tapping/plugging malarky that a B-series does, but just checking.

Thinking back, when we did start it up, then shut it off, I remember hearing something like a high pressure but slow leaking leak, we just couldn't see where it was, it was dark, and I figured it'd be fine to go down the street and back with.

I'm about to head over there and take a closer look.  Will be back with pics and how I had it all connected.  Going to try to get a better look at the block to see where the oil escaped.

Will check on that block...If I could beat on it NA for a couple months I would be satisfied.

[92CXyD]

Damn that sux. I hope you have a back-up block or something. 

[Jorsher]

Ok, so took off intake manifold today and found oil all over the gasket, near the coolant passage and vtec line mostly.  Maybe cracked there or something else?

[Jorsher]

I think i found the issue!

Where i tapped/plugged the bottom of the head for vtec i tapped a little too far and it looks like a hole formed between the oil/coolant passages there...could i just fill the hole with jb weld and call it a day?

[Doug]

Pics are king cracka.

[onlyflash944]

I think i found the issue!

Where i tapped/plugged the bottom of the head for vtec i tapped a little too far and it looks like a hole formed between the oil/coolant passages there...could i just fill the hole with jb weld and call it a day?

it would work, but the question would be for how long.  if you are planning on using it with the cracked outersleeve, then go for it.  if it is something you need to be reliable or plan for lots of boost later, i wouldn't risk it

[Jorsher]

Fuck it. Ill get another block in case but for now I'm going to run it.  I'll drill out the crack a little snd fill with jb weld too.  I need a car.

[Joseph Davis]

Degrease, use an aluminum epoxy.  I'd have no problem backfilling that VTEC oil passage to ensure you seal the coolant leak, since you'll be feeding the head with the external line.

[onlyflash944]

i agree


devcon>jb weld for this instance

[Doug]

So did you break into a coolant passage on the head or the block?

[Doug]

[ctr99ek]

also you should use copper spray on the head gasket.  This is RHMT homie, fill that crack with jb weld or the devcon!!!!!