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[NoPistons!]

Yeah.  Feels like it should be about that time, huh?

Fuckin fuel still pissing out from the rear of the car.  I tightened the clamps that i thought were the culprits and even added a back up clamp.  Still leaks at the same spot.  I think it may have something to do with shit clamps, shit quality line or the fact that pump can now flow what it's rated for.   PO had that big bastard pulling juice from oe 18 gauge wiring on the stock relay.  I fed it some 10 gauge and the relay is maybe 6" from the pump. 

This is the problem area.....  Lucky me the wasps had eaten all the spiders leaving cobwebs.



You can see the gas on that plastic shit. 

My idle is fluctuating because my fuel pressure is fluctuating.  That's a good thing.  I got a really strong idle and it sounded about stable.   I was jumping into my 1000rpm range this time then stalling again from what i'm 99.9 percent is fuel starvation because the line blew leak past clamps again after i thought i fixed it. Not only that but the gauge is showing pressure drop after i shut the car off.  No fault to the regulator   Motherfucker.

Speaking of regulator.  This is the cdm junk that came in it compared to the aeromotive part.  That's disgusting and very unsettling they look like that fresh out of the box.



Anyway i didn't get any further because i dont need to be working on my car all hot and bothered.  Auto parts store was closed anyway.

Took a shot of my actual rear suspension while i had it up in the air.



About that ignition timing i threw out there: You can stab the dizzy in a way the motor is STEADY at 20* give or take at 750rpm.  I have seen some get theirs to run at 15* at 750rpm.  Base mechanical timing has to be close in order for my tables to work properly.  Some of these motors it's as if nissan went out to lunch stamping the degree marks in some pulleys.  Some motors run at 15* (according to marks) and others run as high as 22* (again, according to marks) at constant idle rpm/kpa/vac.

Hope that clears up confusion there.


Some more random filler.  Here's what my optical trigger log looks like during cranking/tease run.  The gap is where the car stalled and i started cranking again.  That's about the best i can log.  Have megalog veiwer on my pc.  Tuner studio says it's not and then wont let me re-download so whatever.  idk.....

[PhilStubbs]

I can't figure out why you have known fuel issues and still keep trying to make the car run.

My order of business would be
1. Fix fuel issues
2. Lock timing in the ecu
3. Adjust distributor till it matches the map
4. Profit

You are chasing your tail not locking down some of these variables.

[NoPistons!]

Fucker, i thought i FIXED the issue.  Turns out it wasn't rubber line leakage.


I stopped tuning.  Car was running fine up until fuel found another weak link.  Corrosion in the hard line caused it to crack. bout 1-2 feet of the return and feed have thick ass cake rust on top of em......

  See the pic i posted.  If you look at the plastic clip thing that holds the hard line against the frame rail, that's where the fuel is actually coming out.  Just got back with a rented flare tool, some compression unions and some hard line.

 The issues present themselves.  It's not rocket science.     Cas issue handled.  Fuel pressure regulator handled.  Fuel line fail.....being handled.  Just had the shits and for some reason continue drinking icehouse in this heat.  Probably so i dont kill anyone who stops by and says "it run yet?!"

[NoPistons!]

Not to be prude Phil but if you had to lock timing values in (disregard cranking) between 0 and 1000rpm on a car supposed to run factory around 20ish* btdc @750, where would you lock it in?  It seems to like 17* alot before it stalls out dropping to 18-19* cells.   I tried that after i fixed the fuel line and re-adjusted the regulator's base pressure. 

I spent maybe an hour messing with it before the battery died and i opted to clean up all the in-cabin efi gear and hook up all the safety and function switches.  Dont need a cd player or storage tray so i cut up a license plate with tin snips and started making a place to mount the ignition switch, lighting controls and h20 sprayer.   Saw no reason to have all this shit laid out when i know it all works.


 

[PhilStubbs]

A decent running engine doesn't care too much about where timing is at idle. Just make the map match the timing light on the crank, then go to town. I have sent timing way off of 16° on Hondas in both directions while trouble shooting idle issues. You can't hurt anything at idle.

[Joseph Davis]

[NoPistons!]

You went there.   Fuck.   I got tagged in that yesterday on fb too but thanks for the laughs. 


First smile i've had in a couple hours considering i didn't do my ground wires as well as i could have behind the dash (switch panels/relays for lights/kill switches/water sprayer pump/etc) and cooked some shit testing my head lamps......    Nothing crucial.  Just really fucking aggravating because the ONE WIRE That melted was a ground and melted into some 12v+ sections of that harness......  Huge mess.  Took everything i had to not slam my hood down like a baby when i shut down shop for the night.


Oh shit.  New rear upper control arms and traction rods came in.  They are off brand but the design isn't like others i've seen and they dont use those shitty spherical style threaded pre-fab homosex "ohmgzrockcrawlrz" ching chong joints that dont have a service life of 3 months.....  These look like the GOOD ching chong joints that come in blox racing honda rear lower control arms and several others.  Nearly oem durability by design.  I'm thrilled with these parts on out the box impression by design alone.  The pinch bolt  on these is something i also dont see on units in this price range.  WHoever made these is a boss.    "s13/s14 camber kit" is what they were sold to me as.  I'm always happy when i dont have to be paranoid about a wheel falling off or something when i'm ripping that clear pink dildo from 3rd to 2nd without rev matching.

[NoPistons!]

1.   part number 195500-1350.  Those are my injectors.  They are LOW IMPEDANCE.  Fucktard on rx7club shipped them to me and told me they were high impedance.  Flyback circuit in route as of 3 hours ago for the ms.  Lucky me the damage was minimal and my old as v2.2 technology was able to not melt anything.

2.  CYlinder six injector wont open.   No injectors leak.  The other 5 prime pulse and spray fine turning cas over by hand.  I had them chilling in an oil drip pan.  Trying to find one or two tonight and order them hoes so i can get shit done.

3.  Street legal wiring is done niggers.  Signals, head lights, brake lights, all that shit.  I fried/burnt up quite a bit.  Lots of fuses, one switch, lots of wire.   Led indicator grounds for my switches were pulling too much current through the switch baking the shit out of em and poping fuse.   Then my dumbass accidentally created a feedback loop to my efi fuse box to where if i had the master power cut the ecu would stay on "mysteriously" but only pull 5.5V instead of 12.00 (what my battery reads with very little cca) and up.


4.  Not even worried about the pressure bleed off on the reg now.  When i was getting those 10 second idle times (on 5 cylinders none the less with NO PULSEWIDTH MODULATION BECAUSE WRONG FUCKING IMPEDANCE) she would hold steady pressure because of the pump being on.  Either the ball valve seat inside the reg is ground half assed or my fuel filter is allowing pressure to bleed of.  It's not leaking from lines, the tank or the injectors!

See yall motherfuckers soon with some pics of this issue being resolved and shortly after a start up/idle vid....i fucking hope.


UPDATE:   Got a pair of used injectors on the way.  Paid $60 for em.  Hopefully ONE of them works.  FML.   Fuckin new set of four runs like $300.  Fuck all that.  Also picked up a $10 60w soldering iron that comes with a 30 day money back/1 year warranty replacement.  The 20 or 40w weller i have isn't great for circuit boards at all.  Takes forever to join wires which is why my interior has crimps galore in the harness.  No fucks are given.  Flyback board was a whopping $34 shipped from diyautotune.   

Dont ask but i'm using a mustang 2.3L fox body fuel filter.   I bought it for my brothers car a looooong time ago and figured i'd just run it.  Hiprofile suggested i pinch off the feed line first then the return line and see which way the pressure bleed is going.  I will do this after i slap a new injector in the rail and have my flyback installed.   Meanwhile i can clean this up and install some more shit that needs installing.

Current state of the interior.




Fuel pump switch that was giving me problems due to me going full retard installing it wrong.  Been fixed.

Ign switch.  ACC is not being used.  All power accessories ground through a relay/switch and are supplied constant fused 12v

Efi, fan, hi/lo beam, master arm and one extra relay for my h20 intercooler sprayer rigged shit i haven't installed yet.

And i love this thing.   Didn't pay out the ass for it.  Feels nice.  Looks great in the car.

[NoPistons!]

"interior" back in.....    Door panels de-flanneled.







Hungover as fuck and finished this up today.  Bout to snag some wendys and slap my low impedance injectors in then try this shit again....   Sucks because i'm by myself working today.

[NoPistons!]

So it turns out my hardware install was fine.  Codebase was fine.  Problem with   All fucking six of my 259cc's are gummed up to the point they wont click on/off.  They ohm out so i have a good chance of them not being paperweights.

Matt had me reflash my ecu thinking static could have corrupted it.   After my reflash,  I grab my test bench injector i was clicking off the stim board earlier and slap that into the harness and set it in the pan.  Rotate cas and it clicks on and off juuuuuuust fine.  Fuckin horseshit!   

Documenting text so i can look back on this and stab myself in the back of the face with brick.  2 to 3 days until more injector gets here......fuck.  Those dont work and i'm gonna lose my shit.   Pr0nz for all that shit text about injectors.

[ratcityrex]

So what I have done in the past is grab a vacuum cap that fits over the end of the injector, poke a hole in it to fit the straw from a can of fuel injector cleaner through it. Put 2 aligator clips with some wire, or a extra fuel injector plug on it, grab your batt charger and turn it on, (this is where an extra pair of hands comes in handy) have your buddy do burst of fuel injector cleaner while you tap the aligator clips or wire leads on the batt charger to simulate the on and off....lol I've actually cleans up a few set if injectors pretty well that way.

[NoPistons!]

For that i am very glad i opted to get a jimstim. Allows me to run whatever i want in "test bench" mode if you will.   One more reason for me to not have regrets about getting a megasquirt.  I fucking love this thing.


 You ever do this on injectors that were unresponsive like mine? Would you suggest soaking them  fully submerged overnight would be a good idea?  Thanks.   

I forgot to mention my toe rods came in yesterday morning.  Ups woke me up actually.  They are what you'd expect for $40.  Only worth mentioning because even though i've lengthened my traction rods that run ahead of the ruca, i still have copious amounts of rear toe in.  I'll eyeball the best i can and get to someone who will do what i want.  Few generic/corporate alignment places i called told me they wont do my alignment as i ask.  What the fuck happened to the customer being right?

[PhilStubbs]

My dad had a fuel injected boat with a stuck injector once. We pulled it, hooked a 9v battery to it and let it sit in a cup of seafoam over night. Works perfectly now.

[NoPistons!]

I'll be doing something about it soon.  Thanks for the tips.   I've seen some pretty cool rigs people put up on youtube but aint nobody got time for that.  I dont anyway.

[Tim]

I had rx-7 ones that wouldn't open.  gently pushed on the pintle while tapping a 9volt battery to it, boiled it in water, don't remember what order.  opened it up and it seemed to work after that so I dumped them on cl

[NoPistons!]

Olds.



News

Injectors.  Good ones are lined up on the bottom.





Probably did something stupid.  Only change was batt correction was sent to 0.20, pwm current percent was maxed to 100 to disable pwm (for high impedance) and pwm time was 25.4 m/s.    I ran the unit for maybe 2 hours the other night.  changed back to my old tune specifiic to these injectors and cooked part of the power supply.  New one en route.   Had to order a lot of 30....  fff.  Also desoldered the flyback and my bro took this cd player apart to scavenge a temp cap from.  Working that job now....



No reason for this....



I about shit myself when i smelled burning......thought something in the house was on fire.  Smelled the ecu, kinda smelled burnt.  Was able to losen the screws and move the case and smoke poured out.  I'm getting very lucky with not burning up shit terribly bad.  Fuck.   I need to catch a break though.  Ecu was running off the stim (no injector installed) with the new settings for 15 minutes before that cap said fuck you and quit.

[NoPistons!]

Sooooo ecu works.  I'm running two high impedance injectors on the stim here.  NOTHING WARM.

Almost certain a ball of solder on the cap (i thought was chunk of the cap initially) caused the failure.



And while waiting on this i made a battery strap. 15 mins into that little project.  It's drilled and painted.  Just have to cut some all thread up to put mounting studs in the trunk. 

I'm digging into why the coil was acting a fool now.


Update on coil:  Feedback loop 2 discovered.



Relay directs power from the MS fuse box to the coil.    Relay is constant ground/constant 12v trigger at the fuse box, not the ignition switch.   DERP.   Hard rain and quality time with some peoples held me up yesterday.  I hope to report back with a running, idling car here in the next hour or two.  Fuuuck, wish me luck.

[NoPistons!]

 
Belts are covered in rotella right now.  Not sure if it's the drain line bulkhead, the front main or the oil pump.    It's leaking from that general area.     

14.2ish afr at 750 rpm and it hovers arount 18* timing.  Dont have a light so i'll have to borrow one and guestimate because i run no lower timing cover.  Top most oil pump bolt sits right under where the indicator arrow used to be though.  =D

Timing loop works fantastic.  Fucking stoked.

[NoPistons!]

Front bits of the motor started getting torn out.  Manifold is last to come out and it was too hot outside to mess with it.


Front main was the culprit.  I jacked it up, started it and got in close.   It LOOKS like it's pouring from the drain line but actually the front main is giving the bulkhead a golden shower......









It's blamed on the quality of the seal.  New casted pump from god knows where, not a rebuilt oem and the seal was pre-pressed.  Shit blew out/tore/ripped, idk.  Chuck of it is sitting right there on the crank snout....  Now how to remove without pulling the oil pump.....


Turbo has glorious endplay.......

[NoPistons!]

Ran the car earlier this evening.  No leaks from the front main.  Awesome.  Bunch of rust was in there when i removed the old seal.  Betting that had something to do with the failure.   I cleaned all that out with steel wool and an emory board. I used copper gasket spray on my manifold and the v band flange, let the car idle for about 15 minutes to warm up and no moar exhaust leaks.   Car idles in the 13's now. I left the laptop indoors yet again so dunno how low the kpa/vac is


Turbo has some end play in it.  I took it apart for inspection, reassembled it, it's tighter now but still needs to be serviced.  Couldn't run the car without a turbo in place because o2 and loud and top mount and danger so yeah.  Got a lead on a turbo that's smoking but bearings still useable for a price i'm willing to pay.  T3/t4 same super 60 config as mine just without the bells and whistles external add on bits like the adjustable gate and v band 5 bolt internal gate adapter.   

[crxvtec91]

DO WORK!

I want to see some rippers already!

[ratcityrex]

Keep nibbling away at the problems. Pretty soon you won't have any and you will be doing mad drifting ripper vids for us!

[NoPistons!]

Opposite lock on rev limiter.  Oh my god it's going to sound glorious on rev limiter.

 Fuck it.  It's go time.  360* thrust bearing and thrust collar are en route.  Will be here in 4 days.  =D 


My phone is charging.  WHen that's done i'll show you what $30 and some ricer tail lights got me. 



Charged up.   See, i'm not nearly as slack on updates/pictures as i used to be.  At least things are exciting and fun now vs a gigantic ass fucking via JD's massive pink dong shifter.



Soo, here's the groovy tail lights.  Oem ftmfw!   I hate crystal tails because they remind me of slow hondas and homoerotic mexican-owned mustang v6's

Ching chong.  Compressor wheel and thrust parts did not live.   $30 for the parts.  Hopefully compressor housing fits my new wheel but it may have to be machined.  Not worth the trouble?  Sure it is.  Science is FUN!









Was balanced.  I couldn't get the heat/wear marks on the thrust parts but rest assured they are fucked.  Turbo ate a rock.  Wasn't told this before i drove an hour to come get it.  For that trip i wasn't leaving empty handed.



Turbine wheel is identical to my current one.   This one has a pinched shut piston ring and wear marks you can feel with your nail on the journal area i've since attacked with fine mesh steel wool to bring the ridge down.



Turbine also balanced.



Identical hot side to mine.  This one is cleaner though.  Mine's been exposed to high humidity alot.  I might do a little something something.  External gate built into housing?  Would be trick as fuck and dirty cheap.  I got a guy who can weld cast really well up in charlotte.

 

Cartridge is the same.  Everything looks good here.   Bearings need replacing but that's no biggie.  Same as any other t3/t04e hybrid.

[Joseph Davis]

Trunk pins?

[NoPistons!]

They came with the car.  A trunk latch did not but for some reason the lock cylinder is still there.

[NoPistons!]

Well now i has alternator issues.  Internally regulated 3 wire not counting the ground.

I have no dummy light in my dash between the plug on the alternator (voltage sense and exciter leads).   Maybe one of you cool bros has a solution?  I can't even find a dummy light at the store.  Regular bulb wont work because they go off resistance between a ground and a hot.   

Charge lights are 12v hot in, 12v hot out.

Solutions.  I can't keep borrowing an external charger for this.  Voltage drops to 11.2 while runnin.  Alternator is good though.



In other news power steering sounded like a flock of geese so i didn't drive yesterday. The pump is working. I'm bleeding the ps system AGAIN and will bleed the coolant system AGAIN.  I had the radiator propped up about 5" higher than the highest point of the cooling system for 15 minutes bleeding air.  Temps running are slowly getting to comfortable levels the more i do so.


going over my alternator/starter harness right now.  It's been hot as hell all day.   99.9 percent sure me not having a charge light is my issue.  Not sure if a number 194 bulb would do the trick but i'm about to find out

[NoPistons!]

Alternator was bad. Replaced it.  Now at 13.4 volts with car idling.  I'm using a 194 bulb as my charge light and it works as it should.  No resistors or diodes needed.

 Got a timing light on the motor and adjusted to 15*.  Did about 3 laps around the block, spun tires.  Still feels mad sluggish and uncomfortable for rippers. 

At about 30* of lock and higher my ps pump groans like hell.  May re-tension the belt and see if that helps as i've bled it ALOT.  Front end needs adjusting suspension wise and i need to secure my fenders with some self tapping screws.  3 bolts isn't enough.


Yesterday i was idling at 16.2 afr at full temp pulling 50kpa vac.

Now i'm idling at 14.2 afr at full temp pulling 42 kpa vac.  All i changed was base timing and messed with warm up enrichment.   

I got to drive it for the first time in over 2 years.  Magical feels.

[NoPistons!]

Made a fresh tune from scratch today since i had no other option.  manually tuned using my dashboard gauges and my innovate.  Decel enrichment is now OFF and accel enrichment is tps based now instead of map/kpa based.  02 sensor in my downpipe is only there for my eyes from this point forwards.  Explanation after the video links.....







 Autotune did something to mess up some of my saved tunes as well as mess up how the software operates normally, even though auto tune is turned OFF.

My voltage readings/lambda the megasquirt gives out on it's gauge is all over the place and reads richer than the motor actually is so when autotuning the ve table leans shit out to the point the car will stall in idle.     Autotune also messed somethign up in tuner studio to where sometimes i'm unable to track load cells for certain tables.

 Throttle response is there.  Could be better but it's what i'd expect from a stock motor to the letter.   ZERO 02 related corrections go on unless it's me loading a cell, watching my innovate and going off that. 

[92CXyD]

How is your plugs?  are you getting misfires?  Your timing where it needs to be?  this would cause your AFRs to be all over the place.

So would a leaking oil seal on turbo.   

[NoPistons!]

AFR on wideband=good and stable.

AFR on megasquirt's voltage/lambda=reading far richer than what it actually is

Letting ms do any sort of o2 correction while it's like that would be bad.


My ve table, coolant temp and tps control pulsewidth/fuel.   All 02 based ms features are and will be disabled until i figure out what the actual fuck but i can drive on this map now if i want to. 


Shit. Sorry.  I didn't answer all your questions.  Turbo surprisingly doesn't leak from the compressor or the exhaust.  I'm not seeing or hearing any exhaust leaks.  No misfires now.  Actually the misfires i was getting was due to unburned fuel in the exhaust.  It was obvious.   Timing is where it needs to be.  For this motor base timing is 15* btdc and that's exactly where i set it with a timing light.

Most of the misfire issues i had were from dumping entirely too much fuel inside of a hot exhaust. Decel enrichment and tip in were the cause of that i believe.   Played with the ve table, fuel pressure, timing, everything on several different mappings.   Turning decel off and changing accel enrichment from MAP DOT to TPS DOT and tweaking the graph fixed quite a bit.