Topic: I've never had a build thread (Update Apr 26th) (Read 32869 times)

ratcityrex · « **Reply #60 on:** March 08, 2010, 08:05:23 PM »

Quote from: Jorsher on March 08, 2010, 11:16:01 AM

Quote from: ratcityrex on March 08, 2010, 12:28:04 AM
Well my b18 hits pretty hard on my hood with the insalation, I too have hasport mounts but I think if I were to pull it out I thing my hood would get fucking hammered by my valve cover.

Looks good man, nice to see your car making forward progress.

Yeah, I'll remove the insulation. If it still doesn't sit flush then I'll cut some of the ribbing out. If it still won't sit, I'll get some spacers :/

When I forced the hood closed without it bolted onto the hinges, it wouldn't pop open unless I had someone pick up the end where the hinges are and I don't want it to be a hassle whenever I need to pop the hood.

Mine is not anywhere near that hard. Its just rubbing the paint off of my vc.

Jorsher · « **Reply #61 on:** March 08, 2010, 08:53:10 PM »

I used a grinder on one of the ribs of the hood. If you look at the car from the side, you can see where the engine sticks up above the fender a centimeter or two. Fuck it...I'm going to bolt the hood on and bend it over the engine, it'll still latch, just waiting to get the intake mani back and installed first.

Everything is pretty much wired up...all that's left is to get the exhaust taken care of and intake mani installed.

Eggylshatch · « **Reply #62 on:** March 09, 2010, 12:27:13 AM »

Don't fuck up your hood mang. Either put washers on the hood hinges, or could you maybe put some washers on the engine side of the mounts to lower the engine a touch? Just the two side mounts, on the bottom side of each mount where they connect to the tranny and engine. I'm pretty sure you could do that, and it would take 15 minutes

Jorsher · « **Reply #63 on:** March 14, 2010, 01:22:09 AM »

IT'S ALIVE!!!1
Got the rest of it together today, thanks Doug & Ryan.

Rigged the battery in the back, haven't bothered with getting it in the rear compartment yet so right now it's just sitting on the spare tire. Hooked jumper cables to it and the car would draw power but wouldn't start. After letting it charge for 15-20 minutes and it still not starting, Doug made the suggestion that maybe one of the grounds wasn't connected. Didn't have an official transmission ground but bolted the old negative cable to it and let the negative terminal touch the body. Started just fine after that after the firing order was corrected...

Am running open header at the moment since it is about half a foot short of the exhaust, so you can imagine it's loud as fuck.

The stage 4 competition clutch took a little to get used to, but it isn't hardly as bad as I expected. Only slightly stiffer than the old stock cable clutch.

Didn't bolt the seat down with all the excitement of the car running. Letting off the clutch, having it jerk the car and thus rock the seat back made for a humorous first drive...

Woke up everyone in Hazel Green with some high RPM, open header rippers.

Fun little car.

Lights dimmed about 5 minutes into driving it. Will need to permanently ground the transmission to the body tomorrow. Amazing what that one ground does... Also need to bleed the coolant system as the car started to overheat. Then just need to bolt on the hood, seat, and get the exhaust taken care of.

Now to get a job and a big, fat turbo.

SOHCKLR657 · « **Reply #64 on:** March 14, 2010, 01:43:09 AM »

It looks like fun bro, good ole screamin' yellow

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #65 on:** March 14, 2010, 01:41:08 PM »

Dont blow her up!

Jorsher · « **Reply #66 on:** March 14, 2010, 05:34:16 PM »

Today was going to change the oil and bleed coolant before driving. Went to dump oil and only a quart came out. Oil was all over the back of the block. Thought *maybe* the oil filter didn't seal well. Put a new one on, opened radiator cap to finish filling the cooling system and started the car...oil/coolant started overflowing out the top.

So...head is back off. Hope to have it back together tonight or tomorrow.

chris · « **Reply #67 on:** March 14, 2010, 05:44:45 PM »

Sweet. Hopefully the handfuls of extra nuts/bolts will come in handy.

Jorsher · « **Reply #68 on:** March 14, 2010, 09:34:43 PM »

Quote from: chris M on March 14, 2010, 05:44:45 PM

Sweet. Hopefully the handfuls of extra nuts/bolts will come in handy.

Yes actually some of them did, thanks

chris · « **Reply #69 on:** March 15, 2010, 01:04:09 AM »

If you need to order another odd part from me just let me know about bolts etc I have bins full of them and usually try to give a couple extra out when I ship parts these days.

I remember back when I first started this stuff having a couple extra odd bolts/nuts was a lifesaver.

Jorsher · « **Reply #70 on:** March 15, 2010, 01:10:54 AM »

I had enough to get it together and have a few spares of my own now that I ripped off the old one, so should be good, but thanks for that.

chris · « **Reply #71 on:** March 15, 2010, 01:13:11 AM »

I think thats my new sales move of 2010. Some people send stickers I send 12mm bolts.

Jorsher · « **Reply #72 on:** March 15, 2010, 01:19:51 AM »

Haha, packaging was top-notch again as always, everything packaged in boxes, with more boxes, in a box. Liked the random 12-pack soft drink box and single balled up piece of printer paper.

As far as my car, possibly have my gun sold which will cover getting my head leak tested (a shop can do that, right?) and getting a new block machined to install.

BoostedSchemes · « **Reply #73 on:** March 16, 2010, 06:32:47 AM »

jorsher sucks at shipping though

chris · « **Reply #74 on:** March 16, 2010, 06:43:44 AM »

Quote from: Jorsher on March 15, 2010, 01:19:51 AM

Haha, packaging was top-notch again as always, everything packaged in boxes, with more boxes, in a box. Liked the random 12-pack soft drink box and single balled up piece of printer paper.

As far as my car, possibly have my gun sold which will cover getting my head leak tested (a shop can do that, right?) and getting a new block machined to install.

I actually had an ebayer question my packing process. Of course everything showed up fine. Im assuming his wife is a stripper and cheats on him.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #75 on:** March 16, 2010, 12:06:02 PM »

Do work!

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #76 on:** March 16, 2010, 12:14:27 PM »

Quote from: crxvtec91 on March 16, 2010, 12:06:02 PM

Do work!

GOD DAMN STEVE. YOU NEED TO DO WORK!!!!

Jorsher · « **Reply #77 on:** March 17, 2010, 06:39:48 PM »

Quote from: BoostedSchemes on March 16, 2010, 06:32:47 AM

jorsher sucks at shipping though

Hahahaha

I won't ever make that particular shipping mistake again.

Me do work? I've been doing just that

Will be slapping the engine back together Thurs/Fri and we'll see how she runs.

Jorsher · « **Reply #78 on:** March 24, 2010, 08:09:20 PM »

MOTHERFUCKER is back to an empty engine bay. Ridiculous how easy it is after just doing it once...

New head and block on the way for round 2.

Jorsher · « **Reply #79 on:** March 30, 2010, 05:04:32 PM »

Received the ITR head from Chris today.

Packaging that you should expect from a Chris-shipped item...

Bag of misc nuts/bolts/etc, always comes in handy

Shiny, individually wrapped in USPS envelopes and then packed in a box, packed in the big box.

Have no worries about running this as-is

Got the engine torn down, but won't be able to pop out the rotating assembly til tomorrow... have a lawn to mow.

Just waiting on the block, then the shop, then will hopefully have it back together and running well.

Jorsher · « **Reply #80 on:** April 11, 2010, 05:24:40 PM »

Not much of an update but got some more shit done. Block came in Friday and was promptly stripped down. Plastigaged the bearings and all is in spec. Monday, will drop off the block to be bored/honed/decked/cleaned, head to be resurfaced, and flywheel to be resurfaced since I saw a couple nicks in it...

They said it would take a couple days, as long as they have it done by the weekend I will be satisfied. As long as I get it back by the weekend, should be up and running within hours.

Today went ahead and finished up the battery relocation since it's just been sitting on the spare tire. Used an Odyssey PC680 sealed dry-cell battery, which is significantly better/cheaper than the well-marketed Optima batteries. Comes with a good warranty, plenty of CCAs, and supposed to handle 400 complete discharges. I've already put it through about 5...need to wire in a buzzer for when the headlights are left on.

This is it in the compartment behind the seats. Fits like it was made to go there.

Compartment closed.

Grounded to the spare tire holding bolt. Thick and goes into the chassis. Didn't want to drill any new holes and risk puncturing the gas tank, as that would be my luck.

My m4d tyte JDM CTR N1 crank pulley came in. The original B18B one has a few small pieces missing. I've heard this will make it off balance which won't be too great for your bearings at higher RPMs, but I was more concerned about it chewing up the alternator belt. Also, there is barely enough space to work with it while the engine is in the car, not sure if I would have been able to remove it without unbolting the mount and lowering the engine. Don't have power steering, and would be too big of a hassle to try to keep air conditioner and fit a turbo in there, so had no use for the extra belt grooves.

So, fresh new crank pulley, about 1/3 the weight, extra space, and OEM quality.

Also sealed up the leaks. The seam-sealer stuff along the "rain rails" and hatch are starting to show their age, and the little cracks let water drip into the cabin. Just pulled the rain rails out, ran a layer of RTV sealant over it all, and it should hold up until I pick up a nice S2000 and can strip this down to have it painted...

ctr99ek · « **Reply #81 on:** April 13, 2010, 02:41:02 AM »

are you parting the old crx at all or whats going on with it?

Jorsher · « **Reply #82 on:** April 13, 2010, 02:53:23 PM »

Quote from: ctr99ek on April 13, 2010, 02:41:02 AM

are you parting the old crx at all or whats going on with it?

I took what I wanted from it and sent to the scrap yard. I had to get it off the land.

buk9tp · « **Reply #83 on:** April 13, 2010, 03:10:05 PM »

You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"

Jorsher · « **Reply #84 on:** April 13, 2010, 04:13:14 PM »

Quote from: buk9tp on April 13, 2010, 03:10:05 PM

You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"

What would be a better one? What was the original wire grounded to?

Do I really need a fuse? I've seen them mentioned on battery relocation write-ups, but the original battery location didn't have one.

dvst8r · « **Reply #85 on:** April 13, 2010, 05:13:57 PM »

One ground to rule them all.

Colin · « **Reply #86 on:** April 16, 2010, 12:14:22 PM »

Quote from: Jorsher on April 13, 2010, 04:13:14 PM

Quote from: buk9tp on April 13, 2010, 03:10:05 PM
You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"

What would be a better one? What was the original wire grounded to?

Do I really need a fuse? I've seen them mentioned on battery relocation write-ups, but the original battery location didn't have one.

The engine is the best ground. You should have a battery fuse in the fuse box, other people are just pussies.

Jorsher · « **Reply #87 on:** April 16, 2010, 03:32:20 PM »

Quote from: Colin on April 16, 2010, 12:14:22 PM

Quote from: Jorsher on April 13, 2010, 04:13:14 PM
Quote from: buk9tp on April 13, 2010, 03:10:05 PM
You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"

What would be a better one? What was the original wire grounded to?

Do I really need a fuse? I've seen them mentioned on battery relocation write-ups, but the original battery location didn't have one.

The engine is the best ground. You should have a battery fuse in the fuse box, other people are just pussies.

Yeah, that's what I really didn't understand.

Didn't see the need for a second fuse just because I moved the battery.

Shop finished my machine work in a day, but I'm still waiting on bearings and a few other misc parts. Should have it all back together by next weekend.

Jorsher · « **Reply #88 on:** April 19, 2010, 11:18:12 PM »

Picked up block, head, flywheel today. Bastards were supposed to put the piston rings on for me because I was afraid of snapping one like I did when trying to take them apart, but got them all on. Pistons installed, tomorrow finishing putting the bottom end together then hopefully can get the engine in Wednesday or Thursday.

Does it really matter where the ring gaps are located in relation to the piston? On one hand I doubt it'll matter since I thought they'd rotate, but I ended up doing what Wiseco said anyway. Ring compressor chopped my hands up, didn't notice until I started seeing blood everywhere

glustic · « **Reply #89 on:** April 19, 2010, 11:43:06 PM »

Damn, I was unaware of this build. Nice man, I really wanna go B or just build up my D. Bottom line: I need moar power!

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Author Topic: I've never had a build thread (Update Apr 26th) (Read 32869 times)

chris

chris

chris

chris

Colin