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[97Econobox]

playing nig-nog stuff that has sirens, whistels, etc you can hear it more than a mile away on the water. anything else if you know the song you can sing along at 3/4 mile (behind the boat, about 1/4 mile infront of it)

Awesome wanna be wigger frat boys can now pollute the water with your stupid Vapid bullshit just like you do everywhere else you drive.  Sweet.  I feel bad for every other poor soul around you that has to hear your stupid bullshit as you try oh so hard to bang girls half your age who pretty much give it up to anything with a cool boat/car/house/beachhouse/concert tickets/drugs and or alcohol.

Like i don't get this mentality.  I have a sweet ass loud system in the car too and at no point ever since high school have i felt it necessary to play that shit top notch through neighbor hoods or parked at my gas station so everyone can think im cool.  When did kids like stop caring who they pissed off? 

Man i sound old.  Cliffnotes: Toys your a fucking toolbox, a vessel for Many many tools.

[Toysrme]

jealousy jealousy jealousy. we play anything and everything mostly whatever cd's ladies bring along.
we go through the middle of city, with bridges, docks, bays, houses, a golf course, everyone waves. even the bass fishermen - who are the pickeyst bunch of all.
no stares, no birds.


frats are gay, never had a part of it. jago probably did, but that's a different story.

[Jorsher]

Finally...can move forward.

This weekend I'll begin putting it in.  Of course, I'm sure I'll find more shit I need to buy once we get started.

[97Econobox]

Looks awesome and fresh.


and toys is a tool.  that is all.

[Jorsher]

Not much of an update but hurre goes:

Partially pieced together:


Thought I didn't have the cam caps for the head, but fortunately Doug found them.

Tore the inside to pieces because "it's a lot easier to get the pedal assembly out if you get the dash out first."



Fuck that shit.

I ended up spending a lot of time on the dash before saying "fuck it" and just dropping the steering column and taking out the pedal assembly using basic damn tools.  Broke my damn climate control getting the dash out 

Also found out there are hydro and cable mounts so have to get hydraulic mounts which fortunately someone here has.

Been wet, cold, and dark, so I have been lazy.  Maybe I'll finish next month.

[crxvtec91]

Do more work!

[snm95ls]

WTF is taking you so long?

 

[BoostedSchemes]

shit son i work faster than you

[Jorsher]

Finally had some decent weather to work outside in today.  Had to be high 50s, sun shining, clear sky.

Tomorrow should finally be able to get the gangsta d-series out...  Need a punch to get the pin out of the shift linkage (unless someone has a ghetto idea, tried using random shit but the hole running through it messed up my plans), and need a puller to get the uhhh steering rod thing off the wheel thing so I can move it out the way and pull the axles.

Any nigjineering advice welcomed.

[Avistar23]

I have used a tiny 1/4 inch socket, a deep one with a step in it, if u can envision what im saying



ive never used a punch i just dig thru my tool box till i find something to wack on with a hammer

[97Econobox]

I'd like to take a moment and interupt this thread by saying


I pooped today.

[Jorsher]

Jorsher ain't lazy...

Had some decent weather, so today:







Things I learned:

1 - The bitch pin in the shift linkage is a bitch.  Used an actual 1/4" punch and it was much easier but still a bitch.

2 - Don't take out an axle until you have both axle nuts off.  I took one out, and couldn't loosen the other axle nut because the wheel was spinning freely.  Got it off by putting the other side suspension back together, putting the wheels back on, then lowering it so they were both on the ground.  Had to pull the e-brake extra-speshial hard because it was still moving the car trying to break the nut free.

3 - Crank pulley bolts are not the biggest pain in the ass -- axle nuts are.  Fucking bitch.  First I tried brute strength.  My massive arms quickly shattered the breaker bar and I needed a titanium breaker bar.  I angled the breaker bar so that I could let the weight of the car down on it and it'd break free.  Unfortunately, with the jack fully lowered, the nut still wasn't broken because the breaker bar dug into the concrete driveway.  I used a jack under the end of the breaker bar and jacked it up.  Was a little worried about the breaker bar shattering since it was noticeably bending, threw a towel over it to prevent metal shards from lodging in my massive brain, kept jacking, heard a loud pop, crossed my fingers, checked and nothing broke except the nut broke free.  Success.

4 - Thanks to Doug for this link -- http://www.d-series.org/forums/transmission-alley/14079-diy-tranny-removal-input-shaft-bearing-change.html  It was fucking pimp and worked perfectly.  Beating the shit outta the lower arm wasn't working, and I was limited on my amount of tools.

Now, to finish putting the B-series in there...

[crxvtec91]

For number 2 a screw driver or small pry bar on the brake caliper works perfect!

[Jorsher]

For number 2 a screw driver or small pry bar on the brake caliper works perfect!

Damn didn't think of that.

Actually, i shoved one in the flywheel because the ebrake wasn't enough, and now it is stuck as fuck in the flywheel.

[Jorsher]

Weather finally stopped with the rain/snow/cold nonsense and I got a little more done

Replaced this:


With the JK Motorsports traction bar I bought 2-3 years ago and let collect dust:


Amazing how much space it frees up.  Will have to ziptie the half-rad to it so the hood will shut.  There were tabs already on it for a half-rad, but they were on the front There was also a metal tab where the little vertical bar in front of the AC radiator thing was supposed to bolt to...but I don't see how the fuck you were supposed to take off the front, lower, crossmember thing without the use of a sawzall, and still don't understand how tabs in front of the a/c radiator thing would be useful for a radiator?  Maybe whoever sold it to me can enlighten me.  Ended up breaking off the mounting piece for the vertical-bar piece since it was hitting the bumper and I couldn't put up the traction bar high enough to bolt it on...

Then, the tow-hook holes on one side were a couple millimeters too low and it wouldn't match up, was bolted to the bottom of the frame (where the old crossmember was) as tight as possible, so there was no way to move the bar any higher.  Ended up taking a drill to it and drilling the holes a little larger.  Complete PITA drilling through steel

Today got the Suja 1 Motoring cable/hydro clutch conversion installed:




Had to take the dash out to get the damn driver side air box/vent crap out the way, as it needs to be removed for the conversion.  The metal where the radio/climate control crap is sliced my middle finger sideways on the inside of the knuckle, didn't notice until I felt a nice warm liquid running down my hand, now have another sweet cut flap of skin

The pin that is supposed to go through the master cylinder and clutch pedal would not fit due to the person that welding it leaving too much slag and not centering the washer, didn't feel like taking the assembly back out so found a stray bolt and nut and threw on some lock-tite for extra security.

I think the MC should have been mounted with the feed/pressure lines facing downward, but it wouldn't fit facing that way because of the pressure line fitting.  Contemplated beating a dent into the car so it would, but ultimately decided to flip the MC over.  Anyone know if it matters if the feed line is facing UP to the MC?  I hope the MC sucks from the feed line and it's not gravity fed...

Got dash back in and finally replaced the main relay.  Tomorrow I get to reconnect all the plugs/wires and hope I don't swap any connectors, then put the seat in...

Next, need to get the rear mount off.  The back bolt is a bitch to get to...guess I'll just unbolt the steering rack and let it drop down?

Should have engine pieced together except for intake mani and TB that chris is working magic on...

[jarebear667]

i like! dig the hydro trans in the rex :yes:

[jarebear667]

also whats that cost?

[Jorsher]

also whats that cost?

$150 for just the bracket (the black piece) and comes with whatever screws/pins/etc you need.  I'm sure you could make it for much, much cheaper, and expect to see some knockoffs in the future, but I have no fab skills/tools/patience.

You have to remove your pedal assembly and have a couple washers welded to the "clip" part of the clutch pedal...I paid a local welder $10 to do it...he did a shitty job but whatever.

You need a reservoir obviously, and some brake fluid safe line...about 1-2ft of it (found some online for $3 a foot).

You need a pressure line, can make your own for cheap but I am lazy and don't want to fool with it, so paid the same people $75 for a nice long braided line.

You need an MC, shouldn't be hard to find.

Much much much easier to install with the dashboard off.  I got the pedal assembly out with the dash still in, but the driver side airbox thing that needs to be removed -- didn't see the bolt to remove it until I took the dash out, then needed to take off that bent steel tube that goes from the console to the driver side vent.

Seems like the best option for hydro conversion.  Once you get the clutch cable out, you have a nice hole in the firewall to shove the pressure and feed lines through.

www.suja1motoring.com sells them.  Gotta email the guy.

[snm95ls]

Please tell me you didn't pull the engine form the top.   

It is ridiculously easy to pull the engine form the bottom on these cars. 

Good to see some progress nig nog.

Do you have all of the shit you need finally?

Planning to keep AC?



I would love to find a rust free CRX. 

[Jorsher]

Yeah, I pulled it from the top.  I suppose it would be easy from the bottom since there's not really shit in the way (unlike the top), but I don't see how it'd be easier than using a hoist.  I'm not even sure I could have got the car up high enough to get it out from the bottom, unless I hooked the hoist to the front or stuffed some bricks under the jacks

All the rest of the parts I NEED are on the way (I think).

I plan to keep AC, however it stopped working last summer and it's cold, so I'm going to procrastinate until summer when I need it.

[snm95ls]

Yeah, I pulled it from the top.  I suppose it would be easy from the bottom since there's not really shit in the way (unlike the top), but I don't see how it'd be easier than using a hoist.  I'm not even sure I could have got the car up high enough to get it out from the bottom, unless I hooked the hoist to the front or stuffed some bricks under the jacks

All the rest of the parts I NEED are on the way (I think).

I plan to keep AC, however it stopped working last summer and it's cold, so I'm going to procrastinate until summer when I need it.

You got it.  lol.

Let me know if you eer decide to keep the AC.  If I don't put the B17 in my ED hatch, then I would be willing to sell the Hasport EFAC bracket that I have.

[Jorsher]

Yeah, I pulled it from the top.  I suppose it would be easy from the bottom since there's not really shit in the way (unlike the top), but I don't see how it'd be easier than using a hoist.  I'm not even sure I could have got the car up high enough to get it out from the bottom, unless I hooked the hoist to the front or stuffed some bricks under the jacks

All the rest of the parts I NEED are on the way (I think).

I plan to keep AC, however it stopped working last summer and it's cold, so I'm going to procrastinate until summer when I need it.

You got it.  lol.

Let me know if you eer decide to keep the AC.  If I don't put the B17 in my ED hatch, then I would be willing to sell the Hasport EFAC bracket that I have.

That's actually the big reason I haven't decided to put it in yet...don't really have money to throw around on unnecessary crap and didn't expect to find a used one.

PM me a price and if it's right I'll buy it now, if not I will in a month or two assuming you still have it.

edit - if you decide not to put in the b17

[snm95ls]

We can talk when you have some income.

I will more than likely still have it in a few months.

 

[Jorsher]

 





Need to slice up the hood tomorrow, as it won't shut.

[crxvtec91]

Nice, now did you beat in the alt area enough?

[snm95ls]

You need to slice up the hood?  that is kind of odd.  did you remove the hood insulation first?

[Jorsher]

Nice, now did you beat in the alt area enough?

More than enough   I dropped the motor in with the alternator attached, fit nicely.

You need to slice up the hood?  that is kind of odd.  did you remove the hood insulation first?

Nope, did not remove the insulation.  Some other were telling me I shouldn't need to hack anything with the Hasport mounts, so maybe that's what it is.

[snm95ls]

Mine rubbed on the hood insulation for a long time with the Innovative mounts.  I finally got fed up with haveing to have two people to open the hood, so I ripped that shit out.  No more problems after that.

[ratcityrex]

Well my b18 hits pretty hard on my hood with the insalation, I too have hasport mounts but I think if I were to pull it out I thing my hood would get fucking hammered by my valve cover.

Looks good man, nice to see your car making forward progress.

[Jorsher]

Well my b18 hits pretty hard on my hood with the insalation, I too have hasport mounts but I think if I were to pull it out I thing my hood would get fucking hammered by my valve cover.

Looks good man, nice to see your car making forward progress.

Yeah, I'll remove the insulation.  If it still doesn't sit flush then I'll cut some of the ribbing out.  If it still won't sit, I'll get some spacers :/

When I forced the hood closed without it bolted onto the hinges, it wouldn't pop open unless I had someone pick up the end where the hinges are and I don't want it to be a hassle whenever I need to pop the hood.