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[HiProfile]

Bad news - I sold everything and bought a Prius. Fuck you.

[92CXyD]

Bad news - I sold everything and bought a Prius. Fuck you.

Yeah right 

[Tim]

About fucking time. You tell your mom you're out of the closet yet?

[92CXyD]

About fucking time. You tell your mom you're out of the closet yet?

Reminds me of this:

http://youtu.be/KiPyMciRWQQ



Thank JD for this,  FUCK You 

[HiProfile]

List of things left:

*Finish IACV work - block-off plate and relocator flange (only needed because I'm starting with the F22B2)

*Weld & drill rear T-bracket (cuts already made)

*Pound the frame edge in 1-2mm (there's a chance for rubbing with these sloppy motor mounts)

*Finish the harness & post up what wires to modify


I wish I could work on this, but I've had my business taking my time & I have to go up north this weekend. I also have my EJ that's getting a new front end & paint.

The F22 *will* make it into my DD Integra this month, and the H23A will replace it before June. I will also be sending in cores to Delta next week, one will be for a F22 272...

[crxvtec91]

Pass on the delta cams go colt!

Had a delta cam go flat on a motor I built for a friend. Tons of zinc in the oil, valves last to delta recommendation. Bent some valves/ killed some guides......

[HiProfile]

For the extra $200, I'll pass. It's just an F22B2, and anyone can have a cam go bad be it a regrind or billet. John said the only cams that really have issues are vtec heads where the cam lobes are too narrow. King down the road says Skank2 Pro 1 & 2's have the same issues w/o half a bottle of zinc added per oil change.



I'm debating if I should switch from the 55mm TB to 60mm. With the 272 it could be worth a few ponies.

[PhilStubbs]

I have a delta 272-2 in the GRM car. Been in there for 3 years with no issues.

[HiProfile]

I got the last major chunks of work done...finally! It's been raining non-stop for almost a week, and hasn't moved out of the 30's that entire time. It's not that easy when the garage is unheated.



First I worked on getting the IACV relocated on the F22B2. It will be in the way of the firewall brake lines, and this was much easier than doing a brake line tuck.

This shows the 64mm LS TB I bored years ago, along with the IACV plate below it near the thermostat. Once I get the Delta 272 cam, I'll be putting a 60mm TB on it & port-matching the upper plenum. The 64mm TB will end up on the H23A or the built F22A.




This shows the plugged IACV holes, and the locations for in & out on the manifold. I'll be running 3/8" vac line behind & below the manifold, or on the other side if I don't put 90* elbows under the IACV nipples.





The biggest bump in the road was modding the rear T-brace. DONE! I put a shim in it while welding so I can later fit it over a B-series block again, of course after adding a 2nd set of holes. For some reason the F/H tab is 1mm narrower. I used 3/16"x1.25" bar like on the trans/block bracket with a 9/16" hole.







Now all that's left is taking pics of the harness & fitting it into the del sol again. I'll have to fab a 6" exhaust section behind the header, route the vac & coolant lines, then take it for a rip.

[crxvtec91]

Oh yea get that bitch running already!

[ratcityrex]

very informative thread. I know its hard as fuck to do step by step shit and take pics of everything and then do a write up about it. Good job mang!

[HiProfile]

After 2 weeks of rain, hail, sleet, and snow (wet nearly every day!) I finally got the F22 back into the del sol. Nothing to really see, looks like the first time it was in. I got the frame rail pounded in a 1/4" in case I make a bracket for the Civic 3-bolt driver's mount. Now there's almost 1/2" next to the pulley. The modded t-bracket and upper trans/block brace both do their job.


To make sure the tranny was lined up properly, I tipped the engine onto the driver's side (on a 3/4" thick anti-fatigue rubber mat), loosened the trans, twisted it on the motor a bit, then tightened it all back down. The only issue I can see is the PP clamping the clutch disc didn't let the input shaft line up to the pilot bearing. I made sure the ISB and pilot bearings had zero play, and also made sure the clutch alignment tool was dead-center.


I've got some prothane inserts coming soon, so I'll be using the rear & pass side with a pass side torque mount insert from Energy Suspension. Then it's just a matter of tossing the harness back in, connecting fuel/vac/coolant hoses, and bolting the axles/knuckles back on. That will let me get the Integra's ITR rear sway & 60mm exhaust on, and if all goes well - the H23A dohc vtec motor too.

[crxvtec91]

Oh yea do work!

[HiProfile]

The weather finally broke into the 70's on a day off, so I finished the wiring outside.


Here are the changes I made to a 92-95 OBD1 Civic harness:

Alternator: 30" total, 18" added, moved to where the injectors branch off
Oil Sender: 11" total, 7" added (either swap your H22 to a plug-type or use a ring terminal)
IAT: 8" total, separated from Purge
Purge Solenoid (for IAB control): 6" total, 6" removed, separated from IAT
MAP/TPS: 17"/11" total, move to VSS spot on main loom
IACV: 11" " total, move to VSS spot on main loom, separate from MAP/TPS
Thermoswitch: 7" total, separate from GROUND wire
VTEC: 7" total, separate from Distributor wires 4" back; Pressure Switch ends up with 6", Solenoid ends up with 7"
O2 sensor: 12" total, separate from the Distributor cluster, move to the main loom (extend 4-8" to be fully compatible)
Injectors: partially separate #1 & #2 from each other (about 1-2") to route under the rail

I started with a 92 D15 wire harness, so I had to add the VTEC Solenoid wire and the MAP wires. I will be running eCtune so I'll be disabling the VTEC Pressure Solenoid and running the IAB Solenoid via the Purge wires. This way I only have to add a single wire on the chassis harness on my Integra LS.


obd1 Civic & Integra H22 swap harness all taped up:




H22 swap harness vs obd1 Civic EX sohc vtec harness:




My workspace with plenty of light (I got hooked on dog treats back in 'nam lol):





My Prothane inserts also arrived, just in time too. I got a full set plus an extra side trans insert. I need enough for 2 car's worth, and already have the Energy Suspension rear/torque insert kit. I'm not 100% sure what I want to do with the driver's side, but at least one will have the modified Prothane kit. I plan on drilling most of the center puck's material out, and possibly some of the material from the 2 outer pucks. It won't be a race car, but I'll definitely need to keep the motor from rocking. The F22B2 manifold & IAT are only ~1" from the brake prop valve & lines.

[HiProfile]

I got the rear & side inserts installed, but the rear was a PAIN to get in. In the end I had to modify it since it was just too thick on the bottom tabs to fit. The red arrows point to the areas I ground off. I just stuck both on the bench grinder and went to town.








I was checking into the Speedfactory D2B kit, and found it VERY interesting: http://www.speedfactoryracing.net/store/#!/~/product/category=472454&id=2975787

designed and tested in our 9 second D16 racecar ... The use of the factory dowel pins is no longer retained

They use the block/trans braces to line up the crank & input shaft. Given they've used it on their 9-sec car (one block actually split in half from the power), I presume a plateless solution for the H2B now has a bit more validity.

[HiProfile]

IT RUNS!! (edit: check a few posts below for the "fixed" video)


(open header)

http://youtu.be/qAJWj3vTIVA



http://youtu.be/Hxa5ZXcgFF4



I just need a 37" alternator belt and some exhaust clamps.

[HiProfile]

Anyways I got the exhaust sealed up and a 37.3" belt on the alternator (no AC or PS). Either it has a weak cylinder, badly needs a lifter adjustment, or the injectors are in various states of being clogged. It really lopes at idle, and I doubt it has an upgraded camshaft.

Regardless there are no codes, the radiator fan comes on, and revs nice. I *will* be driving it this week.

[Phate]

Anyways I got the exhaust sealed up and a 37.3" belt on the alternator (no AC or PS). Either it has a weak cylinder, badly needs a lifter adjustment, or the injectors are in various states of being clogged. It really lopes at idle, and I doubt it has an upgraded camshaft.

Regardless there are no codes, the radiator fan comes on, and revs nice. I *will* be driving it this week.

Mine loped like fuck at idle when it was open header.  Bone stock.  Mine probably was an issue with the O2 sensors being generally unhappy about the whole experience if I had to guess.  Sounded a bit smoother than that though.

I actually really liked how it sounded at idle open header.  The displacement gave it a nice rumble.  Sounded like ass everywhere else though.

[HiProfile]

I got the exhaust hooked up and it still lopes pretty bad, and it isn't pulling much vacuum at idle. The idle screw is full-out and it still dies w/o the IACV. I doubt it came with a 282 cam in it, but I can hope. I'm guessing a bad cylinder due to ancient platinum plugs that sat in oil for 1-2 years or it badly needs a valve adjustment. I'll be doing further tests today once I swap the starter. This starter rarely works even if you bang it with a hammer.

I ended up using a 5040373 belt on the alternator, 37.3" long. A 37.7" belt may have been easier to get on, and only 4 ribs are needed since it's driving a single accessory.

[crxvtec91]

Oh yea!

[Minor Threat]

Mechanical timing is good?

[92CXyD]

Mechanical timing is good?

heard a similar issue on an accord I was working on and it was a pulled injector wiring harness wire near the injector. 

[HiProfile]

I hate to say it, but I'm presuming mech timing is good. DasPoop sold this motor for his friend because the trans died. I tried pulling the plug wires off and #1 & #2 removed makes no difference, which makes sense with the heavy loping sound. I'll try my 370cc injectors after the compression test.

[HiProfile]

FIXED!


Turns out having the EGR connected to vacuum with a non-EGR ecu sucks it open. The problem was compounded by the EGR system likely being clogged.

H2B F2B F22 Civic Del Sol - running 100%


All that's left is to grind a hair more by the driver's axle since this axle has much larger clamps on the boot. I just got a cheap-ass ebay header ($60 shipped) I plan to add too.

[crxvtec91]

Do work, btw I still want a set of those home made brackets!

[HiProfile]

+$250: LS trans, clutch, linkage, axles
+$200: F22B2 w/harness & auto trans
+$10: plate for halfshaft & IACV
+$20: bits & bolts & steel
+$10: intake hose & fittings (IACV)
_____________________________
$490 for >130lb/ft of torque at the wheels.
$1290 for >170whp if you get an F20B shipped from HMO instead.
$1690 for >200whp if you get an H23A vtec shipped from HMO & ebay bolt-ons.



I'm also getting my brother's GoPro cam soon to get some hi-def rippers. I'll also try to get some showing my LS Teg up against this F22 del slow.

[crxvtec91]

Rippers FTW!

[HiProfile]

Today was nice out and I had the day off, so I figured I'd toss on the $60 header. It fits up to the stock cat well, besides pushing it back about 1". I will forgo tuning for the header until the Delta 272 is installed.




It hangs down a little, but so does any header.




It's about as low as the bolts for the front sway bar. It will have a little more clearance when I make a driver's motor bracket for the Civic driver's mount, that will pull that side of the motor up an inch.





BTW I took some measurements, and the F22 head gives you an EXTRA 1" of clearance between the exhaust flange and the core support VS a d16z6!

[Phate]

BTW I took some measurements, and the F22 head gives you an EXTRA 1" of clearance between the exhaust flange and the core support VS a d16z6!

Is that because the F22 is tilted back in the engine bay vs the D series?

[HiProfile]

Yeah, the  F/H blocks sit tilted back. This H2B method keeps it tilted almost as much as they do in a Prelude/Accord. D/B blocks tilt forward.




Speaking of tilted back... a SECOND H2B for me! (H23A Integra)




Still lots to do before tomorrow, and then a lot after that. I have 13hrs into it today, and I expect another 5-6hr before it's road-ready.