Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[ohisofly]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251303514718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

says it'll be here Friday

Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.





Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. 

Thanks for the heads up, that looks like a really good idea. Is there a specific name for those pliers or did you just get lucky and it worked for that situation?

Im in the same boat right now with an hx35
The last one I kept soaking, then hit the housing with some heat
Then I tightened that bolt in the picture
Stuck a pry bar between it and the flange above it
Backed out the bolt into the pry bar and let it push the center out
Once it broke free a little bit I could work it off

Thanks for the details man, I'll give that a try. I honestly had no idea if this was a somewhat-common problem or if I was just really unlucky haha

[Tim]

Common. This one is being a cunt and still won't budge

[n/a mike]

Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.


Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. 

I made my own back when I had my turbo crx, used hairspray too.
good old 1980's aquanet

[ohisofly]

Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.


Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. 

I made my own back when I had my turbo crx, used hairspray too.
good old 1980's aquanet

Could you explain? Sorry I'm confused 

I did some work this weekend, if I'm not too lazy I'll put up some pics tomorrow  what do you guys think about getting an ebay ram horn manifold and then getting my uncle to go over the welds and 'reinforce' it? I searched and found a few threads of people running ebay ramhorn manifolds; I'm thinking about this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CIVIC-CRX-B16-B18-T3-Turbo-RAMHORN-MANIFOLD-/160643182543?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2567146fcf&vxp=mtr

[92CXyD]

Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.


Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. 

I made my own back when I had my turbo crx, used hairspray too.
good old 1980's aquanet

Could you explain? Sorry I'm confused 

Explain which, aquanet or bead rolling?

[ohisofly]

I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha

[92CXyD]

I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha

Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. 

[n/a mike]

I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha

Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. 

Exactly, spray that shit all over the coupler and piping, it slides on super easy then when it dries it's almost like glue. expensive hair spray doesn't work, but the cheap crap does.
it's an old trick I learned when I was a kid riding bmx bikes. putting new grips on the bars. hair spray makes them slide on and when it dries they won't come off.
I made my own bead roller with a pair of pliers, jbweld and some small nuts. I tried to find the pic I took but couldn't.

[turbohf]

paint works well too. you paint all your pipes. let them dry. then hit the ends before you slide it together. think that was the Jeff Frank method.

[ohisofly]

I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha

Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. 

I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha

Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. 

Exactly, spray that shit all over the coupler and piping, it slides on super easy then when it dries it's almost like glue. expensive hair spray doesn't work, but the cheap crap does.
it's an old trick I learned when I was a kid riding bmx bikes. putting new grips on the bars. hair spray makes them slide on and when it dries they won't come off.
I made my own bead roller with a pair of pliers, jbweld and some small nuts. I tried to find the pic I took but couldn't.

paint works well too. you paint all your pipes. let them dry. then hit the ends before you slide it together. think that was the Jeff Frank method.

Thanks for the info guys, that's definitely something I'll keep in mind. I got my bov flange, downpipe flange, wastegate gasket, some random intercooler piping stuff, etc. so I think now I have just about everything. After I see what I have left from black friday I'll be ordering the ramhorn manifold and boost controller

Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?

[PhilStubbs]

Proper couplers and clamps with good fitting pipes works pretty solid. I have 3" chargepipes with no bead or hair spray/glue of any kind. Holds solid to 30psi, maybe more. Never pushed it harder

[n/a mike]

Proper couplers and clamps with good fitting pipes

This is RHMT not Honda Tech, we use what ever we can find for charge piping. do you forget the brake kleen can charge pipe?

[PhilStubbs]

I made my charge pipes from aluminized steel from Columbia River and mig welded it. It's pretty RHMT.

[turbohf]

I made my charge pipes from aluminized steel from Columbia River and mig welded it. It's pretty RHMT.

mine is made from left overs from Columbia River purchases, and previous builds that have been cut up and used again... FLUX CORE    cuz this is RHMT...

btw. i just weld little stitches/dimples on the end of my pipes. use worm drives clamps from Home Depot, 4ply Mishimoto couplers. shit works fine...even on the Galant at 25psi...

[ohisofly]

Here's where I'm at right now, looks like the car is just going to sit until it's turbo. I went to put on my b16a throttle body, but the fast idle valve is located on the throttle body instead of the intake manifold. So now I have to put back on my obd0 intake manifold, which I was too lazy to do at the time



Close enough right?



This is with the intercooler in the orientation that it's in when on the evo





The piping isn't going to go like this I was just seeing what it would look like

[ohisofly]

Again the piping isn't really going to go like this just getting a feel for things





Ebay swag



I'll have fun with the intake manifold this weekend hopefully



At this point I had my Uncle come over and we were trying to figure out the best way to do the intercooler piping

[ohisofly]

Making room



Intercooler will be moved back to the red area and the rad in the green, only reason for this is to have the sleeper look because I won't be cutting away at the bumper at all and the intercooler will be painted black



Original picture for reference



This is where things get complicated, but this is option #1 which assumes I'm using a ramhorn manifold. It has as little piping as possible, and on the drivers side still has the piping down low which will be needed for a ramhorn manifold

[ohisofly]

This is option #2, assuming I would be using a top mount manifold. Yes, I already know a top mount manifold is pointless and a waste of money considering the power I'm trying to make. But this summer I'll probably be throwing a forged bottom end and maybe going lsv or a p8r head so she'll definitely be seeing more power. At that point when I get a bigger turbo I understand that I may be going twin scroll, but even then I wouldn't have to completely redo my intercooler piping setup if it was already made for a top mount. Plus top mount just looks baller 

My uncle said he could probably make one using this manifold I have at my house along with some random piping



Or I could buy one on ebay and most likely just cut off the v band wastegate flange and weld on a 2 bolt flange since I already have my wastegate. Either way, a ramhorn manifold is already roughly $150 on ebay so I'm perfectly fine with spending $300 to go topmount.

Assuming I went topmount, this is how the intercooler setup would be. I didn't have a pic of the intercooler flipped but it would be flipped from the option #1 orientation. No the downpipe will not exit the hood haha



I'd much rather go the topmount route solely because it looks much better in my opinion, and would make things easier. But I'm open to all suggestions. I know this intercooler is overkill for my setup but again down the road I don't want that to be my limiting factor and then have to redo everything for a bigger intercooler. That's all I have for now, what do you guys think?

[PhilStubbs]

Remove fast idle valve, make a block off plate and gasket..... Problem solved

The 2 piece 4-2-1 headers are much easier to make top mounts with. Don't make it harder than it has to be

[92CXyD]

I hope the turbo really isn't going there. 

Opt #2 with a elephant top mount is in the spirit of RHMT gangster.


or Sinktrap

[ohisofly]

Remove fast idle valve, make a block off plate and gasket..... Problem solved

The 2 piece 4-2-1 headers are much easier to make top mounts with. Don't make it harder than it has to be

Having no fast idle valve and having my car as a daily in the winter isn't very fun, that's the only reason I want to keep it because it makes things so much easier under cold starts. I didn't know people even did that, I need to start thinking more rhmt style 

I hope the turbo really isn't going there. 

Opt #2 with a elephant top mount is in the spirit of RHMT gangster.


or Sinktrap

Yea I was just messing around putting the ebay turbo there. Thanks for all those pictures, that was going to be my next question haha. I'll show those to my uncle this weekend. It looks like those first two have a twin scroll design, is that intended for those setups or just how it ended up working? Regardless I'll definitely be going this route

[PhilStubbs]

They just merge at the flange, they aren't twin scroll.

You don't need a fast idle valve. The iacv will idle the car plenty high enough. Stop being a pussy.

[crxvtec91]

Sinktrap FTW! Keep it twin scroll!

[n/a mike]

Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?

I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road

[turbohf]

They just merge at the flange, they aren't twin scroll.

You don't need a fast idle valve. The iacv will idle the car plenty high enough. Stop being a pussy.

QFT. 

[92CXyD]

Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?

I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road

Or try this http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0

I've been wanting to try this for some time. 

[n/a mike]

Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?

I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road

Or try this http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0

I've been wanting to try this for some time. 

yeah I've wanted to make something like that too.

Shit I forgot the pic I found online of the kind I made

[ohisofly]

They just merge at the flange, they aren't twin scroll.

You don't need a fast idle valve. The iacv will idle the car plenty high enough. Stop being a pussy.

Ah ok I see, and does the iacv have some type of adjustment then or what? My brother and I both have ls swapped efs and neither will stay running without holding down the gas during cold start. If you turn up the idle screw enough to keep it running then it's idling over 1k even when warmed up

Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?

I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road

Thanks for the heads up, I'll definitely be looking into this and making a trip to lowes soon

Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?

I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road

Or try this http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0

I've been wanting to try this for some time. 

Looks like it would be baller, pretty interesting that's for sure

Right now I have finals so there won't be much to update with this week, I ordered silicone couplers and an ebay 4-2-1 along with the t4 and wastegate flanges so maybe I can get started on making the manifold this weekend

[PhilStubbs]

The only adjustment is in the tuning software

[turbohf]

my EK just magicly hold steady at just below 1000rpms with no fast idle valve, and no idle screw. its been like 10-30° here for a week or so, rocks the remote start with no issue. idles at 1200-1300ish on first startup.