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[crxvtec91]

Looking good!

[Gold DA9]

I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend

I know your semi local to me. How far are you from York? Did you add me on facebook? I dont work tomorrow, but i plan on swapping wheels, tb, pulling wideband, and pulling the flashpro tomorrow on my Accord. Also putting some interior back in the trunk. Accord is going back to stock. I might even be at Arts shop tomorrow. YCU Dyno Tuning Specialist in York.

If you added me on facebook send me a message again. My memory sucks.

[ohisofly]

I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend

I know your semi local to me. How far are you from York? Did you add me on facebook? I dont work tomorrow, but i plan on swapping wheels, tb, pulling wideband, and pulling the flashpro tomorrow on my Accord. Also putting some interior back in the trunk. Accord is going back to stock. I might even be at Arts shop tomorrow. YCU Dyno Tuning Specialist in York.

If you added me on facebook send me a message again. My memory sucks.

I'm in west york so yea I'm close to everything. I don't think I added you on facebook but I'll send you a pm

[Gold DA9]

I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend

I know your semi local to me. How far are you from York? Did you add me on facebook? I dont work tomorrow, but i plan on swapping wheels, tb, pulling wideband, and pulling the flashpro tomorrow on my Accord. Also putting some interior back in the trunk. Accord is going back to stock. I might even be at Arts shop tomorrow. YCU Dyno Tuning Specialist in York.

If you added me on facebook send me a message again. My memory sucks.

I'm in west york so yea I'm close to everything. I don't think I added you on facebook but I'll send you a pm

Added you. You are definitely close since your in West York.

[ohisofly]

Whats up guys it's been a while. I'm trying to start this thing but it keeps tripping the 100 amp circuit breaker I put in right next to the battery whenever I try to crank it. Any ideas?

[Ntrain2k]

Pulling more than 100 amps trying to start?

Try bypassing the breaker.

[ohisofly]

Time for my bi-annual update

Here's the jdm b20, it's a b20b iirc. Picked it up for $300 

I picked up the engine from jdm engine depot, so according to them it has somewhere around 60k on it. After doing a cylinder leakage test I discovered a valve in cylinder 4 that wasn't sealing completely. Ultimately I decided to just rip apart the engine even though I'm sure it would have ran just fine.





When I had the engine apart I lapped the valves, honed the cylinders, installed new rings, and swapped over my arp head studs and rod bolts from the old engine.This is after I put the b20 back together.



Heart transplant complete





This is what it currently looks like





Right now I'm just trying to get it running properly. I have an xenocron basemap chip in the ecu because Crome was giving me issues and I really don't have time to mess with it. The engine started up first try but it sounded absolutely  horrible, and after doing some digging it seems like I either put the timing belt on wrong or it jumped (I'm not sure which to be honest).

After I get it running right it needs an alignment, exhaust, and inspection. With the b20 being a little taller than the ls, my old exhaust doesn't seem like it'll fit so I'll have to figure out something for that. Once it's running properly then it'll probably be left alone for a while before going under the knife for turbo attempt #2 

[HiProfile]

Timing belt is very likely but so are the injectors. Toss in a set you know were working, since it probably sat in japan for a while with some fuel in those injectors. Have you checked timing with a gun yet? A few degrees can make a big difference.

[ohisofly]

Timing belt is very likely but so are the injectors. Toss in a set you know were working, since it probably sat in japan for a while with some fuel in those injectors. Have you checked timing with a gun yet? A few degrees can make a big difference.

Thanks for the advice. I haven't checked the timing with a gun yet so I'll have to do that and try another set of injectors.

[ohisofly]

Just swapped a set of known good injectors in the car and nothing changed. I didn't personally verify that the timing belt was good but my brother and friend checked it during the week and said that it was fine.

At this point I figured I'd just pull the chip out and see if it would run any different in limp mode. Started it up and it definitely sounded like it was running better so that's good. As of now the car is on stands so I can't test drive it, and it's open header so I'm still not entirely sure that it sounded normal in limp mode. I took videos of the startup with & without the chip in so I'll try to upload them sometime this week for reference.

[ohisofly]

It sounds like it's running a little better without the chip but still hard to tell because there's no exhaust on it

Chip in

Chip out

[crxvtec91]

What happened to the turbo?

[HiProfile]

Give a quick run-down on injector size, FPR & fuel pump used, engine mods/boltons used. Have you tried a different ECU? Does the ECU give any codes or solid-CEL with or w/o the chip?

[ohisofly]

What happened to the turbo?

I guess I forgot to mention that part haha. Basically after my first test drive up and down the road with the turbo it started knocking, so I tore it apart and the rod/crank bearings were all toast. Also found out I bent a rod, which I think is due to the tune being way too rich and more or less hydro-locking it. After this happened I just pulled the engine and put in the b20.

Give a quick run-down on injector size, FPR & fuel pump used, engine mods/boltons used. Have you tried a different ECU? Does the ECU give any codes or solid-CEL with or w/o the chip?

I have good news, turns out I was lied to and the timing belt did indeed jump. I wasn't there when the engine was started up the first time but it must have jumped then because everything was good when I put the belt on. It was off a tooth or two on the exhaust cam, but after fixing that it sounded like a normal running engine so that's good. The engine is still fresh, and I'm also waiting on a new brake caliper so I didn't get a chance to test drive it yet.

As of now it needs:

- rf brake caliper
- alignment
- exhaust fixed (ebay header makes my cat/exhaust not fit)
- inspection/emissions
- then round 2 with the turbo 

[crxvtec91]

Your in pa, why not just get a tune from ycu?

[ohisofly]

Your in pa, why not just get a tune from ycu?

Will he do a tune on crome?

I drove the car to get gas and then let it idle for a while but shut it off because the header was visibly turning red. Then I noticed the distributor was all the way retarded for some reason so I thought that was why.

Today after starting it up (still open header) I noticed the wideband was pegged at 'lean'. The engine was idling fine and there were no check engine lights on, so I'm not sure if this is accurate or not.

Is it possible that the afr sensor could have been damaged when my car was running so rich that it bent the rod?

[crxvtec91]

He might, would have to call him.

[92CXyD]

If you have an open header and you  have WBO2 near the collector of the header you will read very lean all the time except WOT. 

[HiProfile]

If you damaged the sensor from heat, it will just not read for shit. You'll have cracked the ceramic internals or melted a lead.

If your car runs lean enough to damage something, it would crack a valve, blow the head gasket, melt a piston, detonations, etc. You'd have to have pre-ignition to bend a rod, and that's unlikely at partial throttle - but not impossible.

[ohisofly]

If you have an open header and you  have WBO2 near the collector of the header you will read very lean all the time except WOT. 

If you damaged the sensor from heat, it will just not read for shit. You'll have cracked the ceramic internals or melted a lead.

If your car runs lean enough to damage something, it would crack a valve, blow the head gasket, melt a piston, detonations, etc. You'd have to have pre-ignition to bend a rod, and that's unlikely at partial throttle - but not impossible.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm assuming that the distributor being off is what the problem was. In other news after I got the exhaust fixed at a local exhaust shop it still wasn't running right. It also started to overheat on my way to/from the exhaust shop, but turns out my lower rad clamp wasn't tight 

I put a new rf caliper on it so right now I just need to figure out what to do regarding tuning. After getting back from the exhaust shop I pulled the plugs and they were black so it's almost guaranteed that the wideband sensor is bad. I have another sensor but might just wait till after it gets tuned to put that on. Is there any point in trying to use the narrowband output on the wideband (plx dm6) for the tune? That's how I had it setup when the car was running n/a with the old ls engine. From what I understand some tuners disable the o2 sensor in the tune. Looks like I'll be getting it tuned at http://www.ycunderground.com/ hopefully sooner than later.

Once I pressure test the coolant system, button up a few things and get the alignment as close as I can at home it should theoretically be ready to get towed to the tuner. I would drive it to get aligned and then to the tuner but since it looks like it's running rich, I'd rather just do a fresh oil change and get it towed there. My logic is that way there's minimal chance for gas seeping down into the oil and ruining the bearings but maybe that's just me being ocd.

[ohisofly]

The car finally got tuned - made 122 hp, I don't remember what the torque was. I really wasn't concerned with what it made, I just needed someone who knew what they were doing to tune the car. Art at ycu did a great job  The car hasn't been road worthy for over 2 years so it was nice to finally drive it again

https://www.youtube.com/embed/D4503EhKHf8

After getting it tuned I snapped some pics with the daily





As of now I need to sort out a few little things but the engine seems to be running strong - it has roughly 100 miles on the rebuild so far and no major issues yet

[ratcityrex]

Man, good to hear. Long road but worth it. My b18a1 with 8.5:1 comp made 125hp on a stock obd1 ecu. So I would say your right in the rage if what it should be making.

[ohisofly]

Man, good to hear. Long road but worth it. My b18a1 with 8.5:1 comp made 125hp on a stock obd1 ecu. So I would say your right in the rage if what it should be making.

Yea it's definitely been a long road but I'm glad to see it running. Hopefully within the next couple weeks I can figure out how to link my tunerview 2 screen with this eCtune and finish my cluster setup 

[crxvtec91]

Art is the man!

[Gold DA9]

Damn I must have been out of town... or sleeping.

[ohisofly]

Good news, I sold this car to my little brother a year ago but in a few weeks will be buying it back.

As of now I have all my old turbo stuff but will be making a more legit turbo manifold. I'm also trying to decide what turbo to get, looking for something that'll support 600hp. Plans as of now are to go ls-vtec. I could use the b20 block in it right now but figured ls block would be safer and I have one already.

Current plans although I'm open to suggestions:
- eagle rods
- weisco pistons
- arp headstuds / rod bolts
- honda bearings
- either block filler / posting or css
- supertech valve springs and just lap the valves
- b16 head (already have it with blox intake manifold)
- use current cable ls trans and stage 5 action clutch
- use current 900cc HiProfile injectors
- use current fuel lab fpr to crank up fuel pressure
- currently have rewired 255 fuel pump, sure I'll need to upgrade this though
- some type of homemade catch can setup
- little brother is a welder so I'll have him make a new manifold and do all ic/exhaust welding
- need to pick a new intercooler since I doubt stock evo9 intercooler would be ideal

Jdm life

[crxvtec91]

5858 will get you to your power goal and spool super fast. Lose the supertech junk and you will be just fine.

[ohisofly]

Lose the supertech junk and you will be just fine.

What would you recommend?

Just picked this up, a little big for the 600hp goal but might shoot higher so it should be fine



Borg warner s300sx3 - 66/73mm, twin scroll, t4 & .91 a/r

[Tim]

sexy
My only complaint is ef bays get cramped fast, but i love my crx

[ohisofly]

Over the past few weekends, we've worked on swapping the b20 over to my little brother's wagon. It was my first time doing the dpfi to mpfi conversion so that took a while to figure out but it started up first try with no check engine lights  Right now the suspension is all apart but in the next few weeks that'll be finished and I can start working on the crx again