Topic: 1966 Chevy Nova mordor project... ***fresh 4.great.... dyno numbers/video*** (Read 85717 times)

turbohf · « **Reply #90 on:** June 06, 2015, 04:01:50 PM »

i could, but i need a 3-4week setup time before hand.

ok, so i have clammed down a bit. still annoyed (simple task, just bolt some wheels on). hope these studs im gonna run all over town for are going to fit my future brake setup.

think im going to cut the front springs... see how far i get with the studs. its hot, and im not going to get far, i hate the sun...

Quote from: highroller54 on June 06, 2015, 10:29:41 AM

Those actually look pretty good on there. I've always seen your hub caps called "poverty caps"

thanks. yeah i have heard that too. buddy laughed when i said that, he knew what i meant but said he never heard it before?
i like them because they are plain and simple.

92CXyD · « **Reply #91 on:** June 06, 2015, 04:03:44 PM »

Might be better buying front rotors of choice since most OEM rotors came with new studs.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #92 on:** June 06, 2015, 04:28:33 PM »

He already has new front rotors he's going to run in the future. Just needs to get the hubs to mount them on.

turbohf · « **Reply #93 on:** June 07, 2015, 03:14:52 AM »

i only got 1 corner done. and only enough studs to do one end of the car. still need 10more. and to figure out how im doing the front. my guess is i have to pull the brakes all apart.

oh and several of the ones i pulled from the left rear where bent. getting the drum off was a bit of a bitch.

highroller54 · « **Reply #94 on:** June 07, 2015, 09:14:05 AM »

Needs dropped a bit now!

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #95 on:** June 07, 2015, 09:55:33 AM »

Looking good when will it do wheelies

turbohf · « **Reply #96 on:** June 07, 2015, 01:34:52 PM »

Quote from: highroller54 on June 07, 2015, 09:14:05 AM

Needs dropped a bit now!

im going to order drop blocks for the rear. and maybe some springs for the front, but probably going to cut them.

Quote from: crxvtec91 on June 07, 2015, 09:55:33 AM

Looking good when will it do wheelies

thanks. never, im not willing to pay for that kind of traction.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #97 on:** June 07, 2015, 02:58:51 PM »

You should turn the lug nut around when your tightning it down to pull the new longer studs through. Also should put the oil between the washers when pulling the new stud through. Will help ease everything in a little easyier.

Lube is always a good thing when your trying to put a long shank through a tight hole!!

turbohf · « **Reply #98 on:** June 08, 2015, 10:18:27 PM »

cant swap the lug nut around. there is a small shoulder on it. maybe ill get a hardened nut at the hardware store tho. also there is antisieze everywhere. i put it on the threads in good amount, and on the knurled part that pulls into the hub. but ill throw some between the washers. actually i might try to find a spacer at the hardware store also.

LUBE THE TIGHT HOLE!

i ordered LOWERING SPRINGS, and some 2" blocks also. im sure the springs will need trimmed some as they are 2" also. and it needs to be at least an inch lower in the front to start with. see how that shit goes. better turn out ok. i dont like my car being down for prime driving time.

speaking of, im not sure ill even bother with front end swap till early winter? work on other shit like interior (kinda needs everything as most is missing, and whats there needs torn out), stereo, etc.

highroller54 · « **Reply #99 on:** June 08, 2015, 10:32:31 PM »

I pull those in just like that. No "never-see" (inside joke) on the knerles though, just the threads. Only thing you have to look out for is if you use too small of washers you will squeeze them right into the threads. I also use a scrap lug nut. A normal nut would be best but I never have the right one handy and you know flat rate.

turbohf · « **Reply #100 on:** June 11, 2015, 11:14:43 PM »

got another corner done.

shitton of room on this side! also did a quick measure of height, and the right rear is almost a half inch lower that the left rear?!?! fronts where close enough to each other.

add CPP to list of companys that suck. little premature on that, but took 2 days to even ship my order. least its fedex and not ups... speaking of ups, my blocks got shipped via those clowns. tracking number a day later, actual tracking the day after.

so front springs should be here saturday, rear blocks monday.... i ordered this shit on Monday the 8th, both places are in California. its not that far away.

oh maybe i should note that Speedway is on the happy list. showed tracking number by the end of the SAME DAY. think they shipped fedex. so it only took a couple days total... of course the part i could give a fuck about shows up asap. lol

ratcityrex · « **Reply #101 on:** June 12, 2015, 12:03:32 AM »

Excited to see the car lowered.

turbohf · « **Reply #102 on:** June 14, 2015, 01:30:07 AM »

so i ordered 2" lowering springs from CPP. they look to be very nice. plus they are black and not some ugly ass chrome or stupid color.

compairo of the stock (i assume) and the CPP

stance

back needs lowered obviously. i ordered 2" block kit. but after seeing it the way it is, i was really thinking 1" blocks are needed.... now after thinking and looking at it more, measuring, thinking some more, i think it needs 2 or 3" blocks... idk.

oh and...

full clock to the left. so the same as the rest of my cars. it will make a horrible noise when i come off the road into my driveway at 20mph lol... im going to try to roll/hammer the lip down some when the wheel is off next time.

waiting for lugnuts (fucked up 4 doing rear studs), going to have to order some front wheel studs from Jegs. ones i have wont work, and dont exist otherwise. i didnt put the wheel caps on the front as they are a bitch to get on, only imagine a bitch to get off.
also, she needs an alignment bad! pretty sure she needed one to begin with. odd when it was in the air looked like toe in, and on the ground it looks like toe out? im 0/3 on driveway alignments i do believe... time for another lol

highroller54 · « **Reply #103 on:** June 14, 2015, 10:08:12 AM »

Looking good!!!
Hard to tell which blocks you need on your driveway though. You need flat ground, imho you always need a little rake on the old cars.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #104 on:** June 14, 2015, 10:33:52 AM »

I'm thinking a 1" block in the back. Front springs will settle a little bit too and it will continue to drop.

danz · « **Reply #105 on:** June 14, 2015, 01:18:53 PM »

Whats up with the bent leafs in the back? That normal?

highroller54 · « **Reply #106 on:** June 14, 2015, 01:37:54 PM »

No they are helper/lift springs that Dustin needs to take off and throw away

turbohf · « **Reply #107 on:** June 14, 2015, 02:09:19 PM »

Quote from: highroller54 on June 14, 2015, 01:37:54 PM

No they are helper/lift springs that Dustin needs to take off and throw away

what do they do EXACTLY? do they lift it? lower it? add spring rate? everyone just calls them helper springs, what are they helping?

danz · « **Reply #108 on:** June 14, 2015, 02:10:31 PM »

They dont look like they are helping much if anything. lol!

Maybe it just slightly resists the leaf pack flattening out/extending in length, very very slightly...

edit; sway bar is pimp tho

highroller54 · « **Reply #109 on:** June 14, 2015, 03:03:05 PM »

They "lift" lol

ratcityrex · « **Reply #110 on:** June 14, 2015, 03:38:19 PM »

When you add fat people in the back it keeps It from bottoming out or sagging down. So unless you plan on loading a junkyard lsx in the back of 5 fat chicks, get rid of them.

turbohf · « **Reply #111 on:** June 14, 2015, 05:46:14 PM »

i might be able to handle one thick chick, but not a bunch of fatties $:-\$

took them out. not a noticeable change. maybe 1/4"...

cool part is that i have a shitload of noises now, and i havent left my driveway.
~got a grinding noise. kinda sounds like its coming from the rear end/drums, or maybe just right side. think it did that will just the wheels swapped
~when i pulled the "helpers" i noticed a clunk when rocking the car back and forth... might have went away
~clunk from front when turning. kinda sounds like spring seat clunk, but those should be moving on this car
~tires are rubbing it seems in front

~need to check PS level. kinda has that air suck noise around full clock.

turbohf · « **Reply #112 on:** June 19, 2015, 06:00:25 PM »

apparently I bought tapered 2" blocks for the rear. dong remember it showing or saying that. hell I didn't even notice till ivwas putting one in the car.

need to align the passenger side block better. got late last night fighting with it. then pull it to a flatter spot. still think it needs a little lower in the back. but its a good stance now. I can deal with it.

I bought a fender roller. more on that later. probably take some pics of blocks on car. maybe a video update? think I want to to more of those.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #113 on:** June 19, 2015, 06:19:50 PM »

Looks so much better lowered.

highroller54 · « **Reply #114 on:** June 19, 2015, 11:38:00 PM »

Correct!

turbohf · « **Reply #115 on:** June 23, 2015, 06:02:48 PM »

fender roller sucks. flimsy ass fenders.

think I found out most if not all the noises I was hearing. adding PS fluid to the empty resevor seemed to help a lot. lol.

and...

that would be the rubbing/scraping and clunk I was hearing.

then I driveway aligned it. looked legit. on the ground. once it started to roll it pigeon toe'd and started to make noise.
haven't bothered to look at it sence. seemed like it was still rubbing also.

turbohf · « **Reply #116 on:** June 24, 2015, 01:37:54 PM »

so I have been thinking. bad I know. but most these disc brake kits push the wheels out increasing the track width?? so if I swap back on some drum knuckles or use even the disc knuckles. and put the drum hubs and the 98+ Fbody dual piston calipers and 12" rotors... that should move my wheels in a little and provide more fender clearance? be worth the trouble?

ratcityrex · « **Reply #117 on:** June 25, 2015, 09:51:51 PM »

Put a 1/2" spacer on the support rod that attaches your fender to your frame. Should push it out enough and still look fine. I put a stack of washers between my frame and the rod so I could have clearance for my wheels.

highroller54 · « **Reply #118 on:** June 25, 2015, 11:52:20 PM »

Some disc brake kits push out a little some push out allot. All depends on what you have. All of them push out more then a set of drums though, even the stock Chevy ii disc brake setup did. As Aj pointed out that is a very common mod.

HiProfile · « **Reply #119 on:** June 26, 2015, 01:38:57 AM »

I like it better without the caps. With the caps on it looks a bit too faggy with that color.

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Author Topic: 1966 Chevy Nova mordor project... ***fresh 4.great.... dyno numbers/video*** (Read 85717 times)

Author Topic: 1966 Chevy Nova mordor project... fresh 4.great.... dyno numbers/video (Read 85717 times)