Topic: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop (Read 83267 times)

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #120 on:** September 25, 2016, 03:01:24 AM »

i started on the hvac. after a lot of looking around i decided on using all of it out of a 2001 kia sephia. cheap to replace, lots of them every where and the size of everything seemed about right. im going to be putting the evap and heater core in a custom box that is gonna make up the front of my center console. i didnt want to take away from the tiny bit of space that my passengers have to put their feet.

so far i have the blower motor mounted.

fresh out of the junk yard for $60

massive evap. should keep my cab nice and chilly on those 100*+ days

heater core is alot smaller but i have heated seats so im not worried.

i didnt take pics of the mounting but there is a 10ga plate that is welded to the underside of the cowling with studs in it to bolt the blower to. that blower pushes a ton of air. im building a box that will cover it and hold a cabin filter.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #121 on:** October 03, 2016, 10:22:41 AM »

finished my hood latch support. it works, just need to grind the welds and make it pretty.

DSharp · « **Reply #122 on:** October 06, 2016, 11:29:34 PM »

looks great, just don't get rear ended!

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #123 on:** October 09, 2016, 12:06:01 PM »

im gonna make a reinforced skid plate around the tank

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #124 on:** December 06, 2016, 01:56:39 AM »

ok long time no post, had to stop spending money on the truck so i could afford a house but since ive been outbid 5 times in a row i decided to splurge on some stuff and get some work done. first of all i switched that massive evap for a smaller one out of the rear ac unit of a dodge durango which is almost the same size as the heater core. finished my evap/heater box and got my center console firmly bolted to the truck. now i can finish sorting out my limited interior space. i also bought a big expensive piece of delrin to make my body mounts.

a few hours of lathe time and i shout be able to turn this hunk of white gold into stiff as fuck body mounts....

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #125 on:** December 15, 2016, 11:43:38 AM »

Looking good homie!!!

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #126 on:** January 15, 2017, 01:14:24 PM »

Its half price at Pick n Pull so the truck is getting a little love this weekend. i picked up an a/c compressor. i decided to just use the stock Kia Sportage a/c compressor and modify the stock bracket to fit around my new engine mount brackets. it was pretty easy cause the there was only bolt that i couldnt use because it was directly behind the mount arm.

it definitely is a huge help to have an extra block on a stand to mock up and weld mounts.

i also made an internal flaring tool to put barbs into pipe from the inside. its just a ball bearing inside of a banjo bolt and there is a ramp cut into the bolt so when you tighten it it pushes the bearing out. im sure there are improvements to be made but this is what i have so far. it works the same so far in stainless, copper, and aluminum.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #127 on:** January 16, 2017, 01:52:55 AM »

did more work today. after a lot of looking around the junk yard for pieces that fit properly i ended up with a thermostat housing off of a mercury capri XR2 turbo and a water pump outlet from a v6 hyundai sonota. im not using the stock thermostat cause it sticks out the front of the engine like the miatas do which is bad if youre going to be beating on the car. look up "miata coolant reroute" for more info on that.

the water pump inlet bolts right up, i just need to drill, tap, and put a hose barb in it for the heater core. the thermostat housing needs to sit on top of a plate so i have some where to drill and tap for a barb for the other side of the heater core. that will get done after i have the heater core plumbed into the engine bay. i made teh plate out of some 4" aluminum bar stock i have at my work for making misc tools. im still not great on the lathe but im slowly learning.

there is a block off plate in the rear of the head which is now getting the thermostat housing. i just swapped it to block off the front thermostat hole. it has thermostat holes front and rear of the head to work with fwd or rwd.

probably the smoothest surface ive made so far on a lathe

cut in a step for the thermostat to sit in. its super easy to fit everything when you have a spare head just laying around.

the water pump inlet

Ntrain2k · « **Reply #128 on:** January 16, 2017, 06:35:45 AM »

Nice!

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #129 on:** January 18, 2017, 02:40:59 AM »

after looking all over for 5/8" heater hose bulk head connectors and not finding what i wanted i made one.

its getting crowded back there... should still be plenty of room though.

nig nog · « **Reply #130 on:** January 18, 2017, 01:41:58 PM »

crush it

Random Hero · « **Reply #131 on:** January 19, 2017, 02:00:00 AM »

Still BAD ASS

nig nog · « **Reply #132 on:** January 19, 2017, 05:59:39 PM »

Quote from: Random Zero on January 19, 2017, 02:00:00 AM

crush it

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #133 on:** January 24, 2017, 02:46:48 AM »

after starting at least 4 different alternator brackets i finally made one that cleared everything and sits strait. i have some heat shielding that im going to put between the alt and the manifold.

Christo19 · « **Reply #134 on:** January 27, 2017, 01:53:51 PM »

That internal flaring tool you made is fucking rad

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #135 on:** January 29, 2017, 11:25:56 AM »

thanks. ill try to remember to pull it apart and take pics of the insides. theyre super easy to make.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #136 on:** January 29, 2017, 11:44:15 AM »

i got my alternator brackets all cleaned up and painted. did some final mock up of the intercooler and started mounting it. i had to trim the front cab mount support just a bit . i went a little overkill on the lower tray, i can pretty much stand on it. im going to wait until i have my ac condenser to mount the radiator to make sure all of my spacing is correct. for mock up purposes that piece of foam is the makeshift condenser.

not sure what im going to be doing with the intercooler to throttle body connection yet but it needs to move alot for how close they are

turbo outlet is perfect

ratcityrex · « **Reply #137 on:** January 30, 2017, 01:03:14 PM »

Looks great dude!!

92CXyD · « **Reply #138 on:** January 31, 2017, 10:51:08 AM »

I can not get enough of this build, more pics and details

Eggylshatch · « **Reply #139 on:** March 08, 2017, 07:26:51 PM »

For the intercooler to TB connection, what about just a longer chunk of high pressure silicone hose?

I picked up a 3 ft chunk of it once from a semi truck part shop for maybe $30. It's super high pressure stuff with some type of thread woven into it, similar to stock radiator hoses but more pressure resistant. It would allow for engine movement and vibration

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #140 on:** March 08, 2017, 09:38:09 PM »

That's the plan I just want it to be a straight shot instead of that weird kink. I'm not worried about movement. With the poly engine mounts it's not gonna move much.

highroller54 · « **Reply #141 on:** March 18, 2017, 10:36:35 PM »

Silicone 45, a strait piece and a hump hose connector on the ic?

DSharp · « **Reply #142 on:** March 18, 2017, 11:27:49 PM »

you could chop that end tank and make it point out so you get a nice smooth bend with a piece of silicon hose. Get a quality hose to start with and you'll probably never have issues.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #143 on:** April 22, 2017, 05:12:26 PM »

after talking to my buddy that can tig weld he told me to cut the flange off and get a piece of aluminum and he'd weld it up for me.

like all great things it started with a sawz-all

took forever to mill it one part cause the long bit and one part cause im a terrible machinist. angled the throttle body down 10* to line up better.

my beautiful gaping hole

then the mock up to make sure all the gaps are tight and to make sure it points in the right direction.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #144 on:** April 23, 2017, 01:06:32 AM »

Looks stellar

DSharp · « **Reply #145 on:** April 24, 2017, 08:02:54 PM »

I bet that didnt chatter at all when cutting. Hell with it being a welded part you could have just used a flapper to get it flat enough. now get them chips cleaned up and get yourself a way cover for that mill!

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #146 on:** April 25, 2017, 12:00:28 AM »

odly enough it didnt chatter at all, i just tuned the speed up and was only making .040" cuts

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #147 on:** June 06, 2017, 10:58:18 AM »

Throttle body plate welded up. Everting is looking better.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #148 on:** June 06, 2017, 03:11:32 PM »

Looks solid as fuck!!

92CXyD · « **Reply #149 on:** June 06, 2017, 09:04:44 PM »

Badass!!! need more of this turbo porn that last pict is not enough!!!!

MORE now!!!!

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Author Topic: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop (Read 83267 times)