Topic: Shit (Read 30189 times)

Robb · « **Reply #120 on:** January 02, 2010, 02:02:58 PM »

Good luck Pat, in for the ripper vids.

Quote from: onlyflash944 on December 30, 2009, 08:13:36 PM

i've never seen a piston break as a result from hydrolocking an engine

Ive seen the faggot VR6 engine hydrolock + crack pistons. I have a friend who swears his integra did it as well.

sewell94 · « **Reply #121 on:** January 02, 2010, 10:52:16 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on January 01, 2010, 09:13:06 PM

Quote from: HiProfile on January 01, 2010, 04:40:39 PM
Quote from: patsmx5 on December 30, 2009, 08:01:50 PM
Something broke Fired it up this morning and it's running on 3 cylinders and smoking like crazy. Pretty pissed.

What color is the smoke? After seeing your rhmt spring compressor, I'm wondering if you slightly cracked one.

Guess it's back to the battery of test procedures for you... Hopefully it's just something stupid like a broken plug. $:-\$

It's blue smoke. I actually installed two of the pistons using the rhmt spring compressor and then removed them just to see if I broke anything. And I didn't the two times I checked. I'm gonna do a comp. test tonight or tomorrow. Gotta do an oil pan gasket on a 98' sentra now.

Compression test wont show anything unless its a broken compression ring.

How long did you let it run? Could be a few possible things. I'd double check everything before tearing it apart.

I'd narrow it down to the particular cylinder, kill it. See if smoking goes down, or stays the same, and then work from there.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #122 on:** January 03, 2010, 12:13:32 AM »

I cranked it and it ran for like .5- 1.0 seconds on four cylinders then dropped to 3, after running for 5 seconds I could see blue smoke behind the car from the drivers seat. I backed it out from under the carport to the driveway, by then it was making a cloud of smoke bad. Then I got out and saw how bad it was. I reved it up to about 4K a few times and it just poured smoke. I then killed it. Total run time maybe 45 seconds, by then there was a ton of blue smoke in the air. What should I double check? I'm guessing a piston ring broke, but I don't know. Didn't do a comp. test today, I'll try to make myself do it tomorrow.

92CXyD · « **Reply #123 on:** January 03, 2010, 01:30:55 AM »

curious, how much oil did you still have.

My car had a lot of blue smoke until the ring seated I think it took about 2 min., maybe more.

Any chance the blue smoke you saw was a turbo oil seal, or some left over oil in the exhaust stream?

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #124 on:** January 03, 2010, 01:46:52 AM »

Quote from: 92CXyD on January 03, 2010, 01:30:55 AM

curious, how much oil did you still have.

My car had a lot of blue smoke until the ring seated I think it took about 2 min., maybe more.

Any chance the blue smoke you saw was a turbo oil seal, or some left over oil in the exhaust stream?

It dropped a cylinder. Three guesses.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #125 on:** January 05, 2010, 01:27:45 AM »

left to right is 4, 3, 2, 1. Sorry for shitty pics but camera sucks.

Took these pics then did a compression test. Cold engine, 1/2 dead battery.

I looked down the spark plug holes and all the pistons look "normal", but cylinder 4 I could see oil on top of the piston, and saw this on cylinder four.

Then put 4 new plugs in it and cranked it up. It ran on all four with new plugs. After 5 seconds it was smoking, after 15 seconds it was pouring smoke, after 30 seconds of running it started to clear up, after 45 seconds of idling it almost stopped smoking at idle. Revd it and it poured smoke. Ran it maybe 1.5 minutes and killed it, pulled the plugs. Order is again left to right, 4, 3, 2, 1.

What's wrong? All four new plugs were wet with oil when I pulled them, you could wipe your finger on them and get oil on your finger. Plug 4 was the worst, but all 4 were wet. $:-\$

patsmx5 · « **Reply #126 on:** January 05, 2010, 01:32:03 AM »

If the PCV valve happened to plug itself up on it's own, could that possibly cause enough crank case pressure to build up to cause it to oil like that? It's got a hose on a PCV valve that's just open, and a tiny filter on the breather. Just a thought...

EDIT: also, I pulled an intercooler pipe where it hooks to the throttle body and they're still rusty inside/ no oil whatsoever.

klyph · « **Reply #127 on:** January 05, 2010, 01:33:23 AM »

Valve stem seals. The oil is giving a compression bump in cyl 4, but it's good otherwise. Looks like you got lucky.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #128 on:** January 05, 2010, 01:35:03 AM »

I did swap intake cams while I had the head off, and the new cam has a bit more lift and duration. But I blew a head gasket a couple years ago and when I had the head off I put new valve stem seals in it then. Could they go bad that quick? And it's oiling bad, not just a little.

HiProfile · « **Reply #129 on:** January 05, 2010, 07:30:42 AM »

If it clears up then gets bad again, that usually indicates its not exactly a cracked ring/piston. Usually leaking valves will puddle oil, leading to a big cloud that clears up some after sitting a while. Otherwise your turbo is absolutely pissing oil. That too is doubtful, as it will collect in couplers and the intercooler first. Check them just in case.

It could very well be the crank case. It takes very little on broken-in tight clearance engine when the vent is blocked, and very little to smoke out a fresh loose-clearance motor. What I'd do is take the turbo off, cap off the feed line, and see wtf is going on w/o it.

BTW check your oil level. Last thing you want is a spun bearing because of oil consumption. It will also tell you have bad it is, as it actually takes very little oil to create an impenetrable cloud.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #130 on:** January 05, 2010, 08:27:00 AM »

I'm 99.9% sure the turbo is fine. I pulled the intercooler pipe that hooks to the throttle body and it's still rusty inside with no signs of oil at all. If it was blowing oil in this bad though the compressor, it would have to be oily. And if it was leaking through the turbine, at idle, it wouldn't foul new plugs wet with oil that quick would it?

I did check the oil level after initially running it and it was dead on full, then after driving it for 2 hours and it was still dead on full. But that's before it started smoking like this. I'll check it again.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #131 on:** January 06, 2010, 09:15:08 PM »

Try a leak down test.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #132 on:** January 06, 2010, 09:56:08 PM »

Yeah, I would have liked to have done that, but I ran out of time. Had to go back to school.... I'll be down in mid march for spring break, guess I'll do one then. Till then, I'll just wonder what happened. My guess is maybe all four oil control rings broke, but I dunno if that's right, and how they would have broken.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #133 on:** January 21, 2010, 09:18:05 PM »

Ok, so I'm gonna try to go home this weekend and work on the car. It's been sitting for 3 weeks.

I'm thinking do a leakdown test first thing, don't crank the engine, etc. Just to see what it shows on a dry cold engine. If it looks decent, then I'm probably gonna run it some and see if it ever clears up. Drive it, see if it clears up. Then do a leakdown test again while it's hot and see what it shows.

Anything else to test or check? I don't know of any way to check for the valve stem seals leaking. If the intake valve stem seals were leaking, then the valves/intake port would be a bit oily instead of spotlessly clean i guess, but I'd have to pull the intake manifold to be able to see.

From what I read online, it sounds like stuck oil control rings.

Aero · « **Reply #134 on:** January 22, 2010, 11:08:34 AM »

You could check and make sure the valve stem seals have stayed in place. I have heard of them popping up and causing weird shit.

trevor72 · « **Reply #135 on:** January 22, 2010, 02:32:00 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on January 05, 2010, 01:27:45 AM

What's wrong? All four new plugs were wet with oil when I pulled them, you could wipe your finger on them and get oil on your finger. Plug 4 was the worst, but all 4 were wet. $:-\$

it could be lots of things but for simplicity's sake, you could be overfull on oil. I have seen this lots in unbaffled oil pans that get lots of windage.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #136 on:** January 22, 2010, 02:35:53 PM »

I can pull the valve cover and see if I see any valve stem seals that aren't snapped down. Easy enough to check.

It shouldn't be full of oil, but I'll double check that. It holds 4 quarts, so when I put it together I dumped 4 in and fired it up. Can't remember if I ever checked the oil level after that, I was mainly looking everywhere for oil or water leaks, which I found none.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #137 on:** January 23, 2010, 01:00:46 AM »

Did a leakdown test. Did cylinder 4, then 1, then 2, then 3. Did the test 3 times, recorded the values for each cylinder for each time I tested. For the 2nd and 3rd test, I had the valve cover off to verify that the cylinder I was testing was on the compression stroke. The engine was cold, and has not been run in over 3 weeks.

Cylinder#...........%leakdown

1....................10,10,10
2....................10,10,10
3....................16,14,15
4....................10,10,11

When testing cylinder 1,2, and 4, I noted that essentially all the leakage was through the rings (as evident of the air coming out of the valve cover through the oil fill.

Here's where it gets weird. When I first tested cylinder 3, it was blowing air out of cylinder 4's sparkplug hole a lot, and a spec through cylinder 1's sparkplug hole. I thought huh, I must have turned the engine over 2 turns instead of one when settiing it for TDC (had just tested cylinder 2). So I turn it 1 turn and retest, this time it's obvious it's not at TDC. At this point I pulled the valve cover and sure enough it wasn't. I again put it at TDC compression stroke on cylinder 3 and it's leaking air out the sparkplug hole of cylinder 4, and a spec through cylinder 1.

And when I had originally tested cylinder 4 (the first cylinder I tested) I kept thinking there might be a spec of air leaking from cylinder 3. I actually tried putting a piece of paper over the hole to see if it would move it, and even tried lighting an oil-soaked piece of paper on fire and extinguishing it to use the smoke to "see" if there was air flowing out of cylinder 3. I could never tell for sure, but I think it was leaking from cylinder 4 to 3.

Before test 3, I inspected the valve stem seals. All 16 are in their normal spots, and appear fine. I also checked the torque on the headbolts at 30, 50, and 60 ft*lbs (60 is the max, what I torqued it to originally). Nothing ever moved.

I checked the oil level and it's dead on full, no signs of water.

I checked the anti freeze and it's a spec low (probably leaking somewhere, dunno) but there was the slightest oily residue on top of the antifreeze. Not much, but it's always been clean before. So this is definitely new. Even though I didn't see water in the oil, it has been sitting for 3 weeks, so if there is water in the oil, it would be in the bottom of the pan.

I'm guessing at this point that there's a headgasket issue, and possibly a ring issue. I was going to start it and let it warm up, then do a leakdown test again, but the battery's dead. I guess I'll let it warm up tomorrow and then do a leakdown/comp test agian and see what I get.

Eggylshatch · « **Reply #138 on:** January 25, 2010, 01:24:53 AM »

sounds like a head gasket to me. as long as the sleeves aren't cracked... but then again, you'd probably have more issues than that. It doesn't sound like you've run it long enough to know if there was overheating or pressurizing of the coolant at all eh?

patsmx5 · « **Reply #139 on:** January 25, 2010, 12:04:16 PM »

It's a 1.8L BP, cast iron block, closed deck, no sleeves. As I mentioned earlier, when I first put it together it ran fine and I drove it at least 2hrs and it was running perfect, zero smoke. Then the next morning I crank it up and I get this. It seems whatever happened broke while it was cooling down overnight...

EDIT: And at the time I drove it for a couple hours, it never overheated (I have a very effective cooling system), it actually stays within 3*F of thermostat temp once warmed up.

HiProfile · « **Reply #140 on:** January 28, 2010, 01:06:43 PM »

Only thing I can think of is it's the HG. Given it's iron/alum combo and I'd assume a MLS gasket, that's probably the issue. From what I know, dissimilar metals need a particularly smooth RA surface finish to not shear the seal. It's made even worse when it's cold out.

glustic · « **Reply #141 on:** January 28, 2010, 05:06:15 PM »

Dude fuck yes, I didn't know you were rebuilding your block. Should throw some decent power down now!

patsmx5 · « **Reply #142 on:** January 28, 2010, 09:14:45 PM »

Yeah once I get this straigtened out I'm shooting for 350 to the wheels. Right now I got 550cc RC's in the car, but I don't think they'll take me to 350whp. I got a Walbro 255HP and a Malory 1:1 regulator I need to install, then see what I can do with that. But I'll probably have to buy bigger injectors. Other than needing fuel, everything else should be ready for more power.

HiProfile · « **Reply #143 on:** January 28, 2010, 09:36:58 PM »

An extra 10psi base fuel pressure will make them good for 350 whp at 85% duty. A non-hp 255 will be okay with ~65psi before it even thinks of going down hill, especially if your power wires are fairly large.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #144 on:** January 28, 2010, 09:40:20 PM »

The power wires are 18 gage IIRC. I'll be rewiring that too now that you mention it.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #145 on:** January 30, 2010, 06:45:15 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on January 28, 2010, 09:40:20 PM

The power wires are 18 gage IIRC. I'll be rewiring that too now that you mention it.

Awesome idea.

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Author Topic: Shit (Read 30189 times)