:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: icemangsr on March 26, 2009, 02:35:49 PM
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What kind of engine oil do you use and why?
I use mobil, mostly because I just always have. ExxonMobil supplies Honda, and I just never really used anything else. But with so many things changing I was curious what everyone uses.
Castrol GTX - I know a certain someone who says "If it's good enough for John Force, it’s good enough for meâ€.
Brad Penn - I've been reading on it as a local guy runs it, but I don't really see the advantage honeslty. tests on BobIsTheOilGuy.com revealed nothing really advantageous.
I have been trying to get information on the new Torco oils as well as Greddy's new GREX oil and Motul's 300v. Thoughts?
This is purely for conversation purposes, as I will probably continue to run Mobil as it hasn't failed me yet.
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ive always liked mobile1, no real reason except personal preference
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any shit 10-w30 brand can find.
outboard two stroke in the gasoline
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Yeah its sorta oil. I think i had some old timer telling me how most oils were just a scam anyway. Somthing abotu how basicly the only thing wrong with the oil you change out is a slight drop in Viscosity but eh main thing was a loss of all teh additives and horseshit they put in it. He kept Huge ass drums of the Recycled shit or refined shit and thats what he put in cars.
That said I buy whatever is name brand that isnt an arm and a leg. Who cares.
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Mobile 1 15w 50 in the summer/race season
Mobile 1 5 w 20 in the winter time
And always a liter of mystery marvel in the red bottle.
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Yeah its sorta oil. I think i had some old timer telling me how most oils were just a scam anyway. Somthing abotu how basicly the only thing wrong with the oil you change out is a slight drop in Viscosity but eh main thing was a loss of all teh additives and horseshit they put in it. He kept Huge ass drums of the Recycled shit or refined shit and thats what he put in cars.
That said I buy whatever is name brand that isnt an arm and a leg. Who cares.
Eh I'll run the cheapest shit in my car until it all burns away and needs more oil (usually takes a week), but I wouldn't put used oil in an engine I care about. I'm sure the metal particles or whatever can't be good for the engine, although I've not done much oil research.
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Royal Purple because it's gangster status.
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Royal Purple because it's gangster status.
+1 If I am boosted, atm I am not, so I run whatever my work has in the garage.. lol
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Valvoline durablend
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Walmart Synthetic. 5 quarts for 17.50.
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Ive always ran royal purple 10w30 if im boosted and I care about the motor. If I dont give a shit, I run castrol 10w30 in my hondas.
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I run 15w-50 mobil 1 (free, fuck yeah!) on everything but the Wolfsburg, and it gets Castrol syntec 5w-40 (also free).
If I had to pay money for oil I'd imagine it would be the cheapest thing synthetic walmart has in a 50 weight.
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go back to ohmt
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supertech on all my sidejobs. :somb:
Mobil 1 synthetic & synthetic blend is used in all of my personal cars, and its what we use in our shop.
but honestly I could careles what it is.
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On a side-note: I've read conflicting opinions on running a car on synthetic from the start and not. My engine is getting built and hopefully installed within the next month. I'll definitely do the first few hundred on cheap oil, but is there anything wrong with starting with synthetic?
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Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....
I too read ALOT (including on bobistheoilguy.com). Learned lotys about the zink and Phosphorus additives, and the diminishing quantaties used in US manufactured oils due to EPA regulations. Zincdithiophosphate is the additive that really bonds (impregnates) itself into metal...
I use Royal purple ONLY. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....
Lookie:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf (http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf)
98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest
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My engine builder insisted I didnt try to run synthetic until 3k miles. He said something about ring seat. Normally id say fuck you and do it anyway but he sounded smart when he said it.
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Royal Purple because it's gangster status.
+1
I rape my shit like a hot step sister in alabama. This is the only way to go.
I use the cheapest re-re-re-refined oil I can find for my breakins
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Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....
Lookie:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf (http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf)
98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest
hmm now that is an interesting piece of reading isnt' it. i might have to do some more research and this mobil loyalty may be broken.
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My engine builder insisted I didnt try to run synthetic until 3k miles. He said something about ring seat. Normally id say fuck you and do it anyway but he sounded smart when he said it.
90 percent of ring se3atis done in 30 minutes... I break my shit in HARD too.... I go to SYNTH at asround 1K..
Fuck your couch
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I too read ALOT (including on bobistheoilguy.com). Learned lotys about the zink and Phosphorus additives, and the diminishing quantaties used in US manufactured oils due to EPA regulations. Zincdithiophosphate is the additive that really bonds (impregnates) itself ionto metal...
I use Royal purple ONLY. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....
Lookie:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf (http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf)
98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest
hmm now that is an interesting piece of reading isnt' it. i might have to do some more research and this mobil loyalty may be broken.
I had mobile one in my motor when my valvetrain consumed itself. Switched to RP and havent had 1 issue. Im sold. No other oil will see my motor... SHort of breakin, when I use cheap as organic Havoline.
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Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....
Lookie:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf (http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf)
98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest
Nice link.
Goddamn, how much does it cost to fill the oil and how long does it last before the next change?
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I Change out at around 1500 Miles and Use K&N filters...
But I get Cases for 82 bux. :noel:
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I Change out at around 1500 Miles and Use K&N filters...
But I get Cases for 82 bux. :noel:
I'll buy a case :P
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On a side-note: I've read conflicting opinions on running a car on synthetic from the start and not. My engine is getting built and hopefully installed within the next month. I'll definitely do the first few hundred on cheap oil, but is there anything wrong with starting with synthetic?
yeah can any one agree on this, is it safe to run synthetic on factory new engine, i keep getting mixed answers, and also are new engines pre-broken in by the factory?
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Damn, I think im sold too. Its high but obviously worth it.
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Run organic the first thousand miles or so...
Heres what I do (and would with a new car (minus the "tuning" oil change---as they are IDLED around for the most part from the factory).
1.Build motor... Fill with Dino oil and new filter. Get motor up to operating temperature make sure there are no leaks... Heat cycle it once or twice. Shut her down and drain oil through a filter... If you can cut the oil filter open and inspect for metal particles
2. Fill with dino oil again and new filter. Go tune part throttle whilst LEED performs his blackness via lappy... Lots of loading the rings both on accell and decel, riding the brakes on the freeway etc.
About twenty minutes in (Or after a decent part throttle tune has been established) Start tuning boost coilums... By the end of the first HOUR my shits seeing 17-20 PSI and >=550WHP off a LEED Street tune.
I take her home, dump the oil and change the filter out again (Dino oil one last time)....
3. At 1000 Miles....Dump the oil and go to synthetic.
Evidently it works... FUCK babying a car for breakin... It WILL NOT seat the rings for shit. The old addage "break em in hard they run hard" works for more than teenage girls... It works for Race motors, and stock motors alike as well...
:noel:
The shit is only a buck more than Mobile 1, cheap insurance for me.....
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Schaeffer's oil pwns all!! But not something a lot of people know about nor can go buy off the shelf.
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i got a new ride will post pics soon, and i've been hard on it, its an '09 ex, and apperantly you shouldn't be hard on your car for the first 1k-2k miles...i was also told to get an early oil change to get rid of fillings true?
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Can you read.???
Look 2 posts up. Im making WELL OVER 500 WHP on a street tune less than an hour after getting the motor running.
You SHOULD be hard on it, not STUPID. Theres a difference.
Im usually both....
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i got a new ride will post pics soon, and i've been hard on it, its an '09 ex, and apperantly you shouldn't be hard on your car for the first 1k-2k miles...i was also told to get an early oil change to get rid of fillings true?
If you've been reading 8thcivic.com just assume everyone there is retarded (it's about the same as HT, as far as "tech" goes). So many people on that site haven't a fucking clue what they're talking about. Yes, you should change your oil fairly early to get rid of metal filings. No, you shouldn't be easy on it. Wait until it's up to operating temp (and oil is warmed up), and go test it out. If I'm not mistaken, the manual doesn't even address a "break in" period.
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I run durablend, best bang for the buck
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My break in is about the same as bdvt. I fire it up let it almost come up to op. temp and go out and drive it gingerly. Come back home drain/swap filters. fill up with cheep stuff, then go out and beat it pretty good. Lots of 7500 rpm revs, and let it decel all the way down to about 3000, and do it over and over. After about 20 min of driving like that, come back swap oil and filters to the one of your choise(royal purp for me).
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yeah I hear that zink shit is good shit
Fuck you... I went with the K..
K series Zinc. :-X
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Royal purple and I went through same shit with H22 rocker pads and Bigdaddyvtec has done also. Look in my build thread. You will see that my block and head is CLEAN and everything that has contact is polished looking.
I my break in s are with pensoil for 200 hard miles with head stud re torque after 50 miles. Oil change and pensoil again for another 150 hard miles then Royal Purple.
But I Think Bigdaddy runs his motor on the loose side of the spec sheet. Correct me if Im wrong
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Best oil I know of http://www.aerospacelubricants.com/ (http://www.aerospacelubricants.com/) Alisyn, expensive yes, but after seeing it work in Offshore Race Boats, I am a strong advocate. Velocity's Factory 1 Boat 27 foot single 500HP engine picked up .5 MHP just changing the drive oil to Alisyn 0W over racing Royal Purple. not to mention it held up just the same as the heavier oil under the loading and unloading from the boat and prop leaving the water.
BTW, the boat runs about 87 MPH and gets 7MPG on the water.
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yeah I hear that zink shit is good shit
I lost about $3000 cuz of that EPA bullshit 2 fucking engines before I found out what was causing it.
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valvoline durablend, been using it exclusively since I read that tech article (the one BDVT posted) back on oHMT a couple years back.
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Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....
I too read ALOT (including on bobistheoilguy.com). Learned lotys about the zink and Phosphorus additives, and the diminishing quantaties used in US manufactured oils due to EPA regulations. Zincdithiophosphate is the additive that really bonds (impregnates) itself into metal...
I use Royal purple ONLY. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....
Lookie:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf (http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf)
98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest
nice link!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi23.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb376%2F98vtec%2FDSC05247.jpg&hash=64b945e55a07a8cd006dc9b33e0d1935fb00fa9c)
I had always run Mobil1 and i switched to amsoil about 500-600 miles before i noticed it and then that happened. I havent ran mobil1 or amsoil since then. I have been using Torco SR1 5w30 with ZDDP (ZEP) additive. And i used Torco break in oil when i got my motor up and running.
I've still got my oil sample here and am trying to keep an eye on contaminants to figure out if its working like i want it.
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Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol
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supertech is too fancy, accell oil is the best
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Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol
Oil can help get a few more HP. For the average user, good name brand oil works fine.
Comp Cams makes a ZDDP additive available from jegs, summit, etc.
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Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol
In my experience... The grapeape special>?Mobile 1 ALL DAY LONG... I dont like it, but it is what it is. Not one to believe in magic, but my rockers looked exactly like the ones above... I changed oil after reading about the additive packages, and it (the purpleherp) works... II keep a pretty good eye on my cams and followers now.... 12K miles, no wear.
I went round and round with supertech (Im running their springs and retainers... Got specs, checked specs, and was sad that they were right where they should have been. Thaought that it was an interference thing too.. I was wrong. Found that article, Tried Royal purple... And yes. Ill jock it. My VTEC rockers looked as bad as above inside of 1200 miles. (and valvelash was SPOT ON).
My seconday lobes looked alot worse than his to boot...
CLiffs:
YES
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I run 15 quarts of amsoil 15w40 in my superduty :?:
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I run 15 quarts of amsoil 15w40 in my superduty :?:
do you ever change it or just the filter?
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I change it and filter every 3000-4000 km's (once a year)
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unless the engine comes apart like last year :P
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unless the engine comes apart like last year :P
Its a Ford so it probably will be apart this year too :somb:
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unless the engine comes apart like last year :P
Its a Ford so it probably will be apart this year too :somb:
more then likely, Good thing I dont drive it year around :P
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Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol
Jeff speaks the truth. Sub 1500 miles you aren't even seeing the benefits of running synthetic vs conventional oil. There was a thread on HT not so long ago that wasn't completely worthless. I forget the author, but essentially they rain 1000 miles of hard driving/road coarse on conventional and synthetic. Sent both out to be tested. Both ended up being very similar. An extra $20 is cheap insurance, but if your valve train is eating itself, I doubt it's because you are using Royal Purple vs Mobil 1.
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ROTELLA
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Sub 1500 miles you aren't even seeing the benefits of running synthetic vs conventional oil. There was a thread on HT not so long ago that wasn't completely worthless. I forget the author, but essentially they rain 1000 miles of hard driving/road coarse on conventional and synthetic. Sent both out to be tested. Both ended up being very similar. An extra $20 is cheap insurance, but if your valve train is eating itself, I doubt it's because you are using Royal Purple vs Mobil 1.
Would you care to put a months salary on that son????
I usually dont talk out of my ass about technically oriented shit if I dont know what the fuck Im talking about... Evidently you chose to in this instance. Im not the only one whom has had the experience too if you search which, you probably wont... I however had a vested interest. I chose to as the next solution was a 2000 dollar Crane/ferea roller setup I REALLY didnt want to buy.
Im talking from experience... With both... In a constant environment... Lash didnt change, nothing notable changed... Ive steered others in the same direction with the same problems... That had gone through it with a NUMBER of the SAME cams, and followers. Worked for them too. Ya, we must be doing something wrong... That test was probably fixed too. It was an independant test as well, not a RP test.... That test did nothing more for me than to Back up what I found... Looks like my research payed off.... And , well; it looks like perhaps you should think before you type. Or at least before you regurgitate some totally generic bullshit off of an uncited HT thread :-*
You need to read about what youre talking about as the two ARE NOWHERE NEAR THE SAME in regards to their additives,or levels of their additives.
In short. Shut the fuck up when theres grown folks talking
KTHKBAI bignig
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i use 10w30 royal purple in anything i give a fuck about, sure its $8/qt but its worth the insurance. my mustang takes 7 qts :?:
royal purple is also good for finding leaks in a motor. if you have oil coming from somewhere but cant figure it out, run royal purple and it will start leaking 10x worse. i dont know why it does it, but it does.
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Ive heard that, and havent seen it... Not even a hint of any leaking... Sluts tight son!!! O0
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Spikers engine was the same exact setup w/ the old oil and the Royal Purp. His cams had a buffet on the rockers, switched to the Purp and its legit.
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DO you swallow
YOu know you do
HOW MUCH FOR A H22A session with BLUNDELL
You believe on competion? I bet he makes more!
Twins in tanks and upgraded wiring......ALSO GOT A TRICK" not yor momma" up my sleeve
HAHAHAHA
SPike not to you, you my homie/sister of the step side
:noel:
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DO you swallow
YOu know you do
HOW MUCH FOR A H22A session with BLUNDELL
You believe on competion? I bet he makes more!
Twins in tanks and upgraded wiring......ALSO GOT A TRICK" not yor momma" up my sleeve
HAHAHAHA
SPike not to you, you my homie/sister of the step side
:noel:
Jesus fucking christ. SHut up. And no, he wont. You need to get past 477 let alone 630 dude. Seriously
You can have as many tricks up your sleeve ass yuo have in your ass, If I were you Id worry more about the car surviving the dyno than making power at thios point son...
BTW mine runs.
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I run whatever is on sale in my truck. like castrol or pennzoil.
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I use Rotella T diesel oil in my z6
Once I get my turbo setup working ill switch over to Castrol 0W-30 European Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil
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Yup. The euro stuff is not the same as the US manufactured stuff (due for one to the USA EPA standards I briefly outlined earlier)...
You get a cookie. For NOT being dumb... (No sarchasm at all... SRSLY)
:noel:
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In the benz nothing but Mobil 1.... gonna be running Torco in the Honda now though... might convert the benz over too
helps that I get it at the sicC hook up price O0
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Amsoil 5w30, for what reason I don't know.
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i put more miles on my turbo g2 then any hmt member that I am aware of in 2 years and i ran whatever was 10$ that week at walmart, usually pennzoil or something else like that.
I ran full synth mobil 1 in my bmw and it needs new pistons, i blame the oil.
So my scientific FIRST HAND analysis of oils is 2$/qt oil = 100k of turbo boost, 5$/qt synth = blow up your engine at 30psi. I will ask bob the oil guy to add this information to his site, and delete all irrelevant "lab faggot" testing.
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Ziiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiing ;D
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Brad Penn 20W50
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been running quaker state 5w20 in the wrx, it warms up faster than synthetic does (adsorbs heat better i suppose) and my motor runs quieter over synthetic. oil filter at oil change revealed LESS metal vs the previous synthetic filter change, too. 2.37/qt at the local store i get it from too :) changed at 4500-5000mi intervals. better mpg than synthetic
Heat = friction
royal purple is also good for finding leaks in a motor. if you have oil coming from somewhere but cant figure it out, run royal purple and it will start leaking 10x worse. i dont know why it does it, but it does.
All synthetic oils tend to leak/seep more, the molcules are smaller and therfore can fit through smaller holes, not to mention the solids that conventional oil carries that they don't filter out.
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Yup. The euro stuff is not the same as the US manufactured stuff (due for one to the USA EPA standards I briefly outlined earlier)...
You get a cookie. For NOT being dumb... (No sarchasm at all... SRSLY)
:noel:
Sarcasm or not, im taking the fucking cookie.
If I dont like the European knock off shit ill just go back to the diesel oil.
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and the cookie yummy :yes:
Ive tried so many different oils, none seem to really feel different, or come out any different compared to others when changed.
However, I have noticed mobil 1 synthetic burns faster in my z6, so I no longer use it.
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If I dont like the European knock off shit ill just go back to the diesel oil.
Diesel oil has reduced the ZDDP
http://www.zddplus.com/ (http://www.zddplus.com/)
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BDV FTW. That article had me return 2 cases of Mobil 1. Im going to run Valvoline Durablend on the daily drivers, and RP on the Turbo civic.
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and the cookie yummy :yes:
Ive tried so many different oils, none seem to really feel different, or come out any different compared to others when changed.
However, I have noticed mobil 1 synthetic burns faster in my z6, so I no longer use it.
No seriously I wasnt being an asshole... You Be right the EU manufactured shit is different. The SYNTH packages are different and in general more robust.
BDV FTW. That article had me return 2 cases of Mobil 1. Im going to run Valvoline Durablend on the daily drivers, and RP on the Turbo civic.
I tied the Mobile 1 without doing alot of research, just jumped on the M1 bandwagon. Glad I jujmped off
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No one mentioned lucas thats all we run in the nova. Never had a problem
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Heat = friction
actually friction = heat :-*
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Heat = friction
actually friction = heat :-*
Same difference, you got the message
i like running lucas in slopped out engines and as assembly lube. works good, high oil pressure, quiet motors, etc.
Sometimes I don't use the stuff unless I'm trying to limp some shit a few more miles.
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cheapest shit I can find. I'm jewish :)