:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: stealthiskey on October 26, 2011, 07:26:04 PM
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Repost + updates:
So I'm building a garage, just got the slab poured today. Here is a shitload of pictures.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi646.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu182%2Fstealthiskey%2Fgarage%2FIso.png&hash=dd1e9e23ad8814aeea182d255b107888c0913494)
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FUCK YEAH! Looks good.
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No floor drains?
I get pissed daily that my shop doesn't have floor drains
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Are you finishing this in a place where Winter gets ass cold?
Looks like progress, and depending on the finish of the concrete, a solid time to grind it down in preparation for the floor finish. I can't imagine you're gonna leave it raw, right?
One of the larger garage floors I've done:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/33751_449677088736_250816328736_5314267_4014748_n.jpg)
Sherwin Williams Tile-clad 2 part base, H&C deco flakes, and SW rexthane clear. The materials aren't cheap, but the shit's bulletproof.
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No floor drain, no pit, no radiant flooring. Ballin on a budget here. I do have plans for a lift, and to put epoxy paint down on the floor. That Sherwin Williams is the good stuff? What sorta prep is involved? What do you have to do to grind it down? They left it pretty smooth.
I'm in MD, near the bay, coldest we get is about 30. Definitely get at least a space heater in there though. No plans for insulation or drywall at the moment. That can always come later.
Problem with the drain is I'd probably lose stuff down there. Also, probably not allowed to run it into the sewer around here, wouldn't want to run it into the yard. Urinal would be nice though haha
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No floor drain, no pit, no radiant flooring. Ballin on a budget here. I do have plans for a lift, and to put epoxy paint down on the floor. That Sherwin Williams is the good stuff? What sorta prep is involved? What do you have to do to grind it down? They left it pretty smooth.
I'm in MD, near the bay, coldest we get is about 30. Definitely get at least a space heater in there though. No plans for insulation or drywall at the moment. That can always come later.
Problem with the drain is I'd probably lose stuff down there. Also, probably not allowed to run it into the sewer around here, wouldn't want to run it into the yard. Urinal would be nice though haha
I would use a industrial floor sander that you can rent at your local rental shops. Then acid your floor to make sure its clean.
As for heat I would get a cast Iron stove and use that. You can cook yourself right out of your shop once its insulated. And you can burn all your old cardboard boxes you get car parts in..lol
Check craigslist. People are dumping them all the time for newer units.
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As for heat I would get a cast Iron stove and use that. You can cook yourself right out of your shop once its insulated. And you can burn all your old cardboard boxes you get car parts in..lol
Check craigslist. People are dumping them all the time for newer units.
Or make a wood burner out a large barrel and piping. :noel:
If you do that a write-up would be nice. ;DDD
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That Sherwin Williams is the good stuff? What sorta prep is involved? What do you have to do to grind it down? They left it pretty smooth.
You're gonna want the concrete to cure for about a month before coating it. It doesn't have to be way coarse for the epoxy to stick, but it can't be that slick "when it's wet on bare feet you'll fall on your ass" smooth. Post a picture of how it is.
Sherwin will probably try to sell you the stupid homeowner kits that every store has, but the Tile-Clad is the type of shit that you'd find on a factory floor, and the clear is $109/gallon MY (contractors) price, but I don't do it any other way.
More pics in the epoxy floors album:
https://www.facebook.com/PaintModePainting (https://www.facebook.com/PaintModePainting)
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That Sherwin Williams is the good stuff? What sorta prep is involved? What do you have to do to grind it down? They left it pretty smooth.
You're gonna want the concrete to cure for about a month before coating it. It doesn't have to be way coarse for the epoxy to stick, but it can't be that slick "when it's wet on bare feet you'll fall on your ass" smooth. Post a picture of how it is.
Sherwin will probably try to sell you the stupid homeowner kits that every store has, but the Tile-Clad is the type of shit that you'd find on a factory floor, and the clear is $109/gallon MY (contractors) price, but I don't do it any other way.
More pics in the epoxy floors album:
https://www.facebook.com/PaintModePainting (https://www.facebook.com/PaintModePainting)
Damn, that's expensive. I think I'll wait couple of years before doing mine...
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Is it just me or does it look really wet outside in the pics? Hope that concrete cures with no problems. Other than that, looks like a sweet project. How tall is the building going to be? And what kind of lift are you looking at?
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Wood materials don't seem to spendy at all. What did the slab run you? I am seriously thinking of building a new garage myself.
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i'm curious about the slab as well. looks like it's gonna be sweet. fucking deep ass footers too, damn
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All said and done the concrete was about 15.5k. 7k raw materials (40 yards concrete + rebar, wire mesh) 6k labor (excavation, forms, backfill, rebar mesh gravel...) and about 2.5k contractor fee/profit whatever.
For one thing the building reqts out here in anne arundel county, md, are excessive to say the least. require atleast 30" deep by 18" wide footers, and the grade beams, with 4+ inch slab. Plus I got rebar + wire mesh + the fiber reinforced concrete. should be strong enough to park a tank... or so the concrete truck driver thought...
I added up some numbers for the wood framing, seems pretty cheap. Things like shingles and siding might surprise me though.
I'll try and get some shots of the texture this weekend. Winter sucks, barely get to see daylight anymore. Some areas are pretty smooth, others are somewhat textured. It'll probably be about 40 degrees daily once its cured for a month. Too cold for that epoxy finish to dry?
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I know it is waaaaaay too late for this now, but why didn't you run PEX tubing just in case you decide to do radiant heating later?
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Didnt realize there was someone else in maryland that was actually active on this site, not saying that I am because I rarely post. Garage progress looks great
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Looks awesome. I would really suggest looking into proper insullation as it will keep the heat and cold at bay with assistance. Without it your going to run the heater/cooler longer which transitions into more money a month. The last thing I think you want is not going to the garage because powering creature comforts is too high.
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It'll probably be about 40 degrees daily once its cured for a month. Too cold for that epoxy finish to dry?
The product data sheet only shows the lowest listed dry times of 3 hrs touch/6 hrs tack free at 55 degrees, so barring any moisture or freezing temps, I'd still go with it, personally. 8)
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Here's the roughest area,
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi646.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu182%2Fstealthiskey%2Fgarage%2FIMAG0399.jpg&hash=04afe48251ef32aa103b036baaab524681e61481)
And the smoothest area,
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi646.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu182%2Fstealthiskey%2Fgarage%2FIMAG0398.jpg&hash=bdc8843e3a1b32f6025ce622286979d6bb2d678d)
I'm thinking powerwash it and paint it next weekend, weather permitting. Was like 65+ temps out today.
Steve, you think I need to sand it or do anything else? How much paint for 832 sq feet? I'd guess 4 gallons... plus the clear.
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Based on your pictures, I think 3 "kits" (6 gallons total) (each "kit" is a gallon of the color, and a gallon of hardener= 2 gals/1 KIT) will cover it. You might be able to spread 2 kits to work, but when you run out of product and the floor isn't covered, you're fucked. If you're gonna use the Sherwin product I do, call your local store and make sure they stock it. Most don't, and it'll take them a day to get it in.
Your roughest areas aren't terrible, and neither are your smoothest. I'd say the product will stick to both, but I would go the extra mile and run a concrete floor grinder over the whole thing to level everything nice. I rent these by the day for $70-$100.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/384243_2460520865249_1019003721_2735434_258067938_n.jpg)
After that, use the hose or a powerwasher (better) to blast all the dust off the concrete. I sqweegy (sp?) the excess water off to help it dry quicker, but you may not need to be in that much of a rush. either way, make sure it's dry.
After it's dry, you have your product, and the flakes (if you're going to use them)....I buy more H&C Deco flakes (from Sherwin) than I know I'm going to use, because again, shit sucks balls if you run out and your product is drying/mixed. I like to use larger amounts of flake than what you would see on the "Johnny Homeowner" kits, cause more flakes looks kinda like granite. Anyhow, for a standard 2 car garage I'll usually order 14 bottles:
So, I found one of the 24 oz. bottles I use for referrence. For yours I'd buy 17 bottles. You'll return many of them, but you won't run out after you decide how heavy or light you want your flakes. ;)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/392824_2460659468714_1019003721_2735495_934841315_n.jpg)
When laying the basecoat (part A & B of Tile Clad), you mix both parts 1 kit at a time, wait 10 minutes, and start rolling. If you're working with no walls still, you won't need a brush to do corners, but remember the roller you use for the basecoat will be trash when you finish. Don't even waste time trying to clean it.
Get a good 6' x 6' of product rolled out, and then throw your flakes as heavy as you wish. The key I've found to even dispersion (is that a word?) is to put the flakes in a larger bucket than they come in (pictured above), grab a handful, and the throw is all wrist (as gay as it sounds). Handful of flakes, wrist flick to the target. You'll figure it out after a couple throws.
6x6 sections, in a swift pace, you'll find what works for you, tape a line under the garage door seals, and walk when you're done.
For the rexthane clear the next day, you'll want to sweep the loose chips that didn't stick first. Or, as I like to do, blow loose chips out with a leaf blower. The clear is a simple roll ever sq inch, no biggie. It's like rolling water on, but say 3 gallons of that on yours for a thick clear.
That's it. To make things go a tad faster when we're working with time sensitive shit (the base coat), I like to use an 18" roller, as seen by painter Chris here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/62004_449675163736_250816328736_5314239_3008759_n.jpg)
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I think that last guy just realized he epoxied himself into a corner...
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It'll probably be about 40 degrees daily once its cured for a month. Too cold for that epoxy finish to dry?
The product data sheet only shows the lowest listed dry times of 3 hrs touch/6 hrs tack free at 55 degrees, so barring any moisture or freezing temps, I'd still go with it, personally. 8)
Anyone who's been to the shop has seen how the floor's epoxied where my dyno bay is. There are some blems in the cure/finish because we did it when it was ~35 degrees out. The guy who did it (professionally) had been doing it in FL for years and wasn't prepared for the cold of WNC... the final verdict on it was that the cure time goes up A LOT as you get closer to freezing. IIRC it had sat overnight for ~10 hours and was not enough.
I think that last guy just realized he epoxied himself into a corner...
He's probably wearing "cleats" so that he can walk across it on 5-6 spikes, instead of his whole foot, and the tiny little dimples that makes in the epoxy immediately fill back in since it's wet.
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BTW, blems aside, three years later my floor is super easy to clean and aside from chipping where the lift ramps beat the floor has not deteriorated further than the initial cure-related issues. I'm pretty sure the chipping is due to the consistency of the concrete floor, as it's chunks of concrete chipping up with epoxy attached and not epoxy coming free of the concrete.
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Stealthmode,
any impressions of this?
http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ (http://www.epoxy-coat.com/)
The guys on garage journal all love it... I have spent thelast month Drywalling and insulating my garage , it's 19 x26 1.5 car. I have tried to do everything right - tons of outlets - wired for surround sound - 60 Gal compressor hidden in the ceiling... hard air lines.. The one thing that keeps me confused is the floor... I have even looked @ porclean tile.
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Also, fuck the gentleman above me. That is all.
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Also, fuck the gentleman above me. That is all.
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I have no witty retort.
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Stealthmode,
any impressions of this?
http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ (http://www.epoxy-coat.com/)
The guys on garage journal all love it... I have spent thelast month Drywalling and insulating my garage , it's 19 x26 1.5 car. I have tried to do everything right - tons of outlets - wired for surround sound - 60 Gal compressor hidden in the ceiling... hard air lines.. The one thing that keeps me confused is the floor... I have even looked @ porclean tile.
Porcelain tile, would their be an issue with oil, antifreeze, brake fluid, or other fluids getting soaked in the grout? :noel:
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perhaps, but it's awful pimp .. About the same cost as a good Epoxy setup
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foffroadracecanada.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F11%2F12gauge1.jpg&hash=525ab5bf030a2167f67957792d0b4a3a33ff4f5f)
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Fuck your euro trash mouth, Jon. Epoxy it and call it a day.
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perhaps, but it's awful pimp .. About the same cost as a good Epoxy setup
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foffroadracecanada.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F11%2F12gauge1.jpg&hash=525ab5bf030a2167f67957792d0b4a3a33ff4f5f)
Lol. Spending some time over at the gatagejournal forums I see.
:P
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Stealthmode,
any impressions of this?
No. The only thing I have an impression of is what I've used. I don't have a Masters in all garage flooring + carpet degree.
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Stealthmode,
any impressions of this?
No. The only thing I have an impression of is what I've used. I don't have a Masters in all garage flooring + carpet degree.
You have fallen from god to mere mortal in my eyes, Steve.
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perhaps, but it's awful pimp .. About the same cost as a good Epoxy setup
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foffroadracecanada.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F11%2F12gauge1.jpg&hash=525ab5bf030a2167f67957792d0b4a3a33ff4f5f)
Why is there a kitchen in the garage? Is it a women garage???
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Perhaps it's so the bitch can make the man a sammich while he looks at the Porsche.
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He sure as hell doesn't work on it in there. There is barely room to get in it.
This is mine. Excuse the car on the pos trailer. It was a test run to make sure the trailer would work before putting a lot of work into it
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi571.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss152%2FSecksyPeePee%2Fa04f8f53.jpg&hash=3f4ba9af9f24c29e5d97eb1472d376ef0c4744fc)
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Gay. Just called the local Sherwin Williams, they said they couldn't get the tile-clad in anymore because of VOC regulations. Recommended shieldcrete instead, but it doesn't sound as bulletproof, and only comes in slate or beige not white...
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Can't get the tile clad in MD or PA. Gonna check DE and VA.
They recommended the shield-crete, which is basically some weak ass homeowner bull shit, according to the datasheet. Oh, and it doesn't come in white.
Another option is the Armor Seal 1000. It's pretty good, but not as good as the Tile Clad. At least it has ASTM tests performed.
adhesion rated at 350 psi instead of 1050,
hardness at 58 in lb instead of 95,
temp rated at 180F instead of 200,
etc etc.
If I can't get the tile clad I guess I'll do the Armor Seal + Rexthane... unless you want to ship me some Tile clad, for a nominal fee, of course...
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Yeah, I can ship it.
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AWWW YEEEAAHHH west virginia dont give a shit about VOCs or the environment, or a lot of things... :?:
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fuck that is like a 10in slump they poured in the slab.. hope it doesnt crack on you like ralston purina. did they even trowel the floor or just pour it, slick it and leave?
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What is a slump, and what does troweling do?
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http://www.lmcc.com/concrete_news/0801/five_minute_classroom_slump.asp (http://www.lmcc.com/concrete_news/0801/five_minute_classroom_slump.asp)
fuck you poured that wet :?: Did you use a 4000 mix?
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So, unless there's some sort of voodou plasticizing element taking place here, Jacer's saying they added too much water to make it pour easy at the expense of quality?
Alright, what does troweling do for you?
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Exactly. Troweling it would give the slab a smooth finish. Typically you wait till the mud is somewhat set up and then trowel it to give it a glass like finish.
(https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQhfj-_kz3kuYMm-ahRHk9uylbFzADUDyVcW6Sc3kKB0lw8zKr0ZQ)
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The power trowells are the way to go. Last 2 slabs we poured (about 6000 sq ft), they ran those on it every half hour till it cured. Leaves an almost flawless surface.
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He sure as hell doesn't work on it in there. There is barely room to get in it.
This is mine. Excuse the car on the pos trailer. It was a test run to make sure the trailer would work before putting a lot of work into it
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi571.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss152%2FSecksyPeePee%2Fa04f8f53.jpg&hash=3f4ba9af9f24c29e5d97eb1472d376ef0c4744fc)
What work did you need to put into it? Looks perfect to me :mexi:
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It needs tires and I was going to put 2x6's on it to make a deck. Luckily before I dumped any money into it, a guy asked me about storing his car trailer in trade for being able to use it. It sits behind that building where I can't even see it and I use it at least once a month, he uses it about once every 4 months.
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Got mine primed and painted on the weekend
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Looking good.
Yea it was about a 5" slump, and they troweled it for me. You might be seeing a lot of water from the truck washout, and the fact there is 36" deep of concrete down there, not just a 4" slab.
Didn't use the power trowel because the area is relatively small.
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Merry Christmas bitches!
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I have just one thing to say to you.
FUCK YOU!
That looks like it is gonna be a nice space to get some shit done.
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Looking good. I like it
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Looks good. But I would have moved the beam back 1.5" so you could have ran another stud along side of it to create a pocket for it to sit in like it is on the other side. If you were to add another one now it will protrude outward, Meh plenty strong the way it sits though. I imagine your gona use some sort of strap/tie to hold it from kicking out anyways though. Looks good. I only wish I had a garage that big.
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What program/software did you use for your rendering? I like that it has the materials needed listed to help figure out the price.
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That rendering was done with the free version of google sketchup. It's not the greatest program, but it is free. I added the material list in somewhat manually, although it will count the number of "objects" (such as 2x4s) for you. My biggest gripe is that you can't set a dimension, everything is click and drag something as long as you want, which can screw you if you need different levels of precision.
Turns out I'm no structural engineer either. I can draw stuff up according to common practice (16" OC etc), but I can't calculate wind loads, and beam strength. Had to hire one to actually draw up the real plans for permit approval. The overall dimensions are still the same, but there are some critical alterations.
But to their credit, I was able to view google maps, take a screenshot of my property, measure out the dimensions, rotate and crop it to just my lot, save as jpeg. Then using sketchup create a rectangle the size of my lot, and import the jpeg image as a texture, thereby pasting in the google maps image right on to the ground. Helped visualize where everything would go, and how it would fit around the pool and trees.
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Why didnt you go another 10 feet wider? Shop space > back yard appeal.
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Gotta plant some trees in that bare spot, or something. Good compromise between what I want and what I can afford.
Made some good progress:
View from across my baller status pool
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Tyvek and wall sheathing. May not be what you're used to because I'm using t111 not vinyl siding.
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Putting some of the roof up. No trusses here. Putting those first beams up was terrifying, also happened to be one of the windiest days this winter.
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This one running across is about 16' in the air, and that's a 12 ft ladder. Put them up with clamps until we could get the first set of rafters into position.
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Looking good
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Been doing some roof work. No trusses, framing it all with 2x8 rafters.
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Showing the ladder framing for the gable end overhang. Notched the last rafters and layed 2x6's across.
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Got a lot of painting to do with the plywood walls, and the T-111 isn't so great with a roller, because it has grooves every 4 inches. I'm looking to get a decent spray gun set-up, but not really sure where to start. Was looking at these two:
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html)
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-siphon-spray-gun-kit-96367.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-siphon-spray-gun-kit-96367.html)
Steve any suggestions?
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I don't think I would spend the money for a one time thing. Just have someone go ahead of you with a brush and do the groves and you follow up with a roller
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True, but I've got to primer, then paint, a few coats. Also my house needs repainted soon, and I've got a wooden/fence to replace which will probably need treated/painted
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R u gona do a overhang on the gable ends or just run them flush with the wall?
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R u gona do a overhang on the gable ends or just run them flush with the wall?
In the pic looks to be a 12" or 16" overhang
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Looks great, goodluck with that.
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That's not the kind of paint sprayer you need. You need an airless paint sprayer like Graco, Titan, etc... and not that Johnny Homeowner Wagner shit either. You can find a good used airless on Craigslist for $2-300 to do the job.
I recently bought a new Graco 395. New it was $700, but used you can find for the $300 range I'd think.
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And I would for sure do yourself a favor and floor that attic with plywood, run electrical for a couple fixtures on a switch, and an access panel. You can NEVER have too much storage.
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And I would for sure do yourself a favor and floor that attic with plywood, run electrical for a couple fixtures on a switch, and an access panel. You can NEVER have too much storage.
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Thinking about it more, you can rent sprayers from local rental places, some Homeboy Depots..... Usually runs $50-$70 per 24/hrs.
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I would just rent a airless unless u find a crackhead selling one on craigslist.
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Eh i got drunk and bought the hvlp HF special. I'll let you know how it works. If not I'll rent one of those guys. And I always keep an eye out for crackheads on craigslist O0
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Dude, your gona be there for weeks with a hvlp trying to paint that Bitch!
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Dude, your gona be there for weeks with a hvlp trying to paint that Bitch!
I tried this just for grins on our deck last year. You'll want to hit yourself in the forehead with a hatchet trying to paint that garage with it.
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Dude, your gona be there for weeks with a hvlp trying to paint that Bitch!
I tried this just for grins on our deck last year. You'll want to hit yourself in the forehead with a hatchet trying to paint that garage with it.
F'real? why does it suck so bad? Because of the typical 1 quart capacity of those things? cuz i got the 2.5 gallon tank thing to boot.
Got one o them wagner pieces of shit, too. that thing was a waste
i can always rent the big boy if i have to
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hmmm
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/2820034142.html (http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/2820034142.html)
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Man I would just rent one for the $50 a day it cost.
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hmmm
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/2820034142.html (http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/2820034142.html)
That!
Just take the hvlp gun back. You use those for painting cars and kitchen cabinets on the detailed tip. You need a sprayer that will actually put some paint out to paint a house/garage. All you need to do is go to youtube and watch an hvlp gun and an airless sprayer.