Topic: my rwd crx project CRX2000! (Read 256694 times)

WOT · « **Reply #180 on:** November 28, 2009, 05:12:42 PM »

Best thread Ive seen in a LOOOOONG time

Is your shop still in hamilton??

I wanna throw a 5.0 v8 into my crx, but Ive obviously got ALOT of research to do after reading this thread!!

Id love to see this sometime though

weirtech · « **Reply #181 on:** November 29, 2009, 10:59:41 AM »

Quote from: WOT on November 28, 2009, 05:12:42 PM

Best thread Ive seen in a LOOOOONG time

Is your shop still in hamilton??

I wanna throw a 5.0 v8 into my crx, but Ive obviously got ALOT of research to do after reading this thread!!

Id love to see this sometime though

drop by any time. shop is in burlington. address is on the site: www.weirtech.ca

aaron

malichite · « **Reply #182 on:** December 04, 2009, 08:56:09 PM »

Why didn't I see this earlier? I may have to change up my notches on the double Ds and do it like that. I really like the way that turned out.

Vagitarian · « **Reply #183 on:** December 07, 2009, 09:30:24 AM »

Fukn beautiful.

malichite · « **Reply #184 on:** December 10, 2009, 05:08:59 PM »

Could you post some pics where the downward diagonal meets the frame in the back? I am interested in how you tied it all in.

Vagitarian · « **Reply #185 on:** December 23, 2009, 08:03:03 AM »

danz · « **Reply #186 on:** December 23, 2009, 08:25:08 PM »

Quote from: Vagitarian on December 23, 2009, 08:03:03 AM

bump

you must be new.... its stickied guy.

TunerToys · « **Reply #187 on:** December 23, 2009, 09:30:13 PM »

Quote from: danz on December 23, 2009, 08:25:08 PM

Quote from: Vagitarian on December 23, 2009, 08:03:03 AM
bump

you must be new.... its stickied guy.

LOL

rdtech · « **Reply #188 on:** December 31, 2009, 01:46:13 AM »

Nice build. Keep up the great work!

weirtech · « **Reply #189 on:** January 01, 2010, 11:29:37 AM »

i'm going to be working on this on sunday if anyone wants to drop by the shop.

Â½cocked · « **Reply #190 on:** January 01, 2010, 12:25:27 PM »

Dude, that is a LOT of work. Hope it turns out to be a sweet ride. But you could have made it easier on your self buy getting something rear wheel drive in the first place. Like a Mustang

Plus you get to start with a LOT bigger motor: a 3.8 or a WHOPPING 4.6 ;D

weirtech · « **Reply #191 on:** January 01, 2010, 01:25:16 PM »

Quote from: Â½cocked on January 01, 2010, 12:25:27 PM

Dude, that is a LOT of work. Hope it turns out to be a sweet ride. But you could have made it easier on your self buy getting something rear wheel drive in the first place. Like a Mustang Plus you get to start with a LOT bigger motor: a 3.8 or a WHOPPING 4.6 ;D

but why take the easy road like everyone else? and why not use a motor that is capable of making as much power and weighs only a fraction of a v8?

snm95ls · « **Reply #192 on:** January 01, 2010, 01:28:21 PM »

Quote from: Â½cocked on January 01, 2010, 12:25:27 PM

Dude, that is a LOT of work. Hope it turns out to be a sweet ride. But you could have made it easier on your self buy getting something rear wheel drive in the first place. Like a Mustang Plus you get to start with a LOT bigger motor: a 3.8 or a WHOPPING 4.6 ;D

You're like a puppy, shitting all over the place with blatant disregard.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #193 on:** January 01, 2010, 02:01:22 PM »

Quote from: Â½cocked on January 01, 2010, 12:25:27 PM

Dude, that is a LOT of work. Hope it turns out to be a sweet ride. But you could have made it easier on your self buy getting something rear wheel drive in the first place. Like a Mustang Plus you get to start with a LOT bigger motor: a 3.8 or a WHOPPING 4.6 ;D

The 3.8 motor fails and is slow as balls. 4.6 is nice.

weirtech · « **Reply #194 on:** January 03, 2010, 06:12:02 PM »

update time. this shit is still warm.

rear frame work is complete. i just need to cut some sheet and weld it in there to cover the hole. it is going to be flat, so it should be pretty basic. once that is done, then the hand brake section of the tunnel will be raised for the driveshaft. that should take care of all the serious fab work.

top view:

inside view:

passenger side frame rail:

fender view of pass side rail:

inside again, different angle:

Hotrodlincoln · « **Reply #195 on:** January 03, 2010, 06:18:23 PM »

Good shit as always. think itll be on the road by spring?

d-rail · « **Reply #196 on:** January 03, 2010, 06:42:17 PM »

Quote from: Hotrodlincoln on January 03, 2010, 06:18:23 PM

Good shit as always. think itll be on the road by spring?

weirtech · « **Reply #197 on:** January 03, 2010, 10:41:16 PM »

maybe not by spring, but hopefully by june when my bike insurance runs out. i'll sell the bike once this is running, because i'll probably never ride it again. :yes:

TunerToys · « **Reply #198 on:** January 03, 2010, 10:44:24 PM »

Hey Aaron,

Thanks for the update!

Corbo

SloS13 · « **Reply #199 on:** January 04, 2010, 10:53:06 AM »

Dude....yes...dude

toyolla86 · « **Reply #200 on:** January 04, 2010, 12:15:51 PM »

how do you make sure its all in there straight or should i say perpendicular

weirtech · « **Reply #201 on:** January 04, 2010, 01:53:51 PM »

Quote from: toyolla86 on January 04, 2010, 12:15:51 PM

how do you make sure its all in there straight or should i say perpendicular

the front is no biggie because the new subframe was made from a jig that was made off the oem subframe.

the rear, i got luck on (and was actually easier than the front). i haven't posted pictures yet, but there are two small plates bolted into the pivot bushing mounting points from the original trailing arms. those plates have the holes in them that the s14 rear subframe is bolted into. because they are mounted symmetrically in the frame rails of the car, i just made the plates a mirror image of each other. that takes care of making the rear end straight in 2 axis and also centers it from side to side. the 3 axis is a no brainer. i just had to make it somewhat level at the rear of the subframe. i made the 2" square cross piece that it bolts into, bolted it onto the subframe, then welded the bar into the frame rails at the back. there was no need to do any plumb bobbing or anything like that.

weirtech · « **Reply #202 on:** January 04, 2010, 05:03:42 PM »

i've got a couple buddies working on the wiring. i don't have the patience or probably the mental capacity to map out all this shit. here is the beginning anyway. it'll be much cleaner once it is all done. they do shit oldschool with a candle instead of a heat gun for the shrink tubing.

klyph · « **Reply #203 on:** January 04, 2010, 05:40:16 PM »

Wow. Do they solder with an oil lamp?

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #204 on:** January 04, 2010, 09:28:51 PM »

I solder by rubbing two sticks together, works great.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #205 on:** January 04, 2010, 10:09:53 PM »

Damn nice work, glad to see the update!

clwtwizted · « **Reply #206 on:** January 05, 2010, 12:56:15 AM »

So did you make the fenders? I like the corner delete. Do you have a pic with the bumper on?

Turbo242 · « **Reply #207 on:** January 05, 2010, 06:13:54 AM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on January 04, 2010, 09:28:51 PM

I solder by rubbing two sticks together, works great.

and by sticks you mean you and ur boy friends cocks

weirtech · « **Reply #208 on:** January 05, 2010, 08:46:11 AM »

Quote from: clwtwizted on January 05, 2010, 12:56:15 AM

So did you make the fenders? I like the corner delete. Do you have a pic with the bumper on?

that was a mistake i had done when the car was painted the second year i owned it (1997). i also had the door handles and the washer nozzles shaved. i'd love to replace the quarters with some oem ones, but i don't think i'd find any in as good a shape as mine unless i bought them new.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #209 on:** January 05, 2010, 06:32:59 PM »

I'm not sure it's a mistake. Looks clean, but it's hard to say for sure with no bumper and the hood open

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Author Topic: my rwd crx project CRX2000! (Read 256694 times)

Â½cocked