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Author Topic: buks welding thread  (Read 73409 times)

Corey

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #30 on: May 02, 2010, 05:01:09 AM »

you need to turn the gas flow way up. you dont need a flow meter, a standard regulator with a gauge is fine and probably much cheaper.

still looks too hot.

and no those welds arent "structurally sound". they are contaminated to fuck and if you made a manifold with welds like that it would fall apart very quickly.

your bevels suck. they need to look like the bevels that come on the weld el's. use the side of the chop saw to make them or get a belt sander. make sure your tungsten is VERY pointy and sharp otherwise the arc will be all over the place and you wont be able to control the puddle. if you dip the tungsten in the puddle, stop welding and go sharpen the tungsten. make sure there are NO gaps. set the welder for 85-90 amps and make the root pass. turn it down to 60 and make the cap pass, you can move pretty slow that way. also whats your post purge set at. you should be holding the torch over the spot you welded till the gas flow stops. if your pulling the torch off right away you can contaminate the weld.

also wire wheel the pipes and clean them with a clean rag and acetone. youll see a huge difference.
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t_cel_t

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #31 on: May 02, 2010, 06:27:15 AM »

regulator = pressure regulation
flow meter = volume of gas/time

you cant use a regulator and expect it to provide the correct coverage.

it looks to me you are still pretty hot, and have very little gas coverage. what happens is the metal oxidizes and it just mixes all around, so even if only 1 little part is bad it fucking pulls that shit all the way through the weld.

also are you holding your torch over the weld after your done? another tip is keep the filler rod under the gas as well, to keep the filler from oxidizing, you dont want to put shit right back in your weld.
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CSaddict

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #32 on: May 02, 2010, 08:00:05 AM »

Jay I can tell by the browish red colors on some of those that your Tungsten is also contaminated. If you touch once or get the tungsten dirty you need to stop and resharpen. Its very important.

What gas are you using? 100% argon? It needs to be.

What Tungsten is it? Should be 2% Thoriated with the RED band on the end. (others will work but that is what you should start with. Some like Lanthiated)

Turn the heat down to 60 amps. You are trying to learn muscle memorization not make great first welds. Train your hands to work first, watch the puddle, and learn where you are in the pedal and its relation to amps/heat.
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #33 on: May 02, 2010, 02:18:16 PM »

im using red tunsgten and 100% argon

yes i hold the torch on it till the 10secs are up lol my welder has a 10 sec post weld flow lol and im not wasting it on anything else

is it safe to leave my gas turned on 24/7? i cant hear any leaks from inside the welder...

is it safe to leave welder plugged into outlet 24/7 i dont hear anything when its plugged in and not turned on...

i will sharpen all the tungsten i have on hand so i can swap em out whenever i accidentally dip...

ill try 60amps on the next try

right now my gas flow is like a soft blowing of air

its turned as high up as my regulator will let it go (which isnt very high)
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Corey

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #34 on: May 02, 2010, 03:16:10 PM »

regulator = pressure regulation
flow meter = volume of gas/time

you cant use a regulator and expect it to provide the correct coverage.

it looks to me you are still pretty hot, and have very little gas coverage. what happens is the metal oxidizes and it just mixes all around, so even if only 1 little part is bad it fucking pulls that shit all the way through the weld.

also are you holding your torch over the weld after your done? another tip is keep the filler rod under the gas as well, to keep the filler from oxidizing, you dont want to put shit right back in your weld.

what i meant was he doesnt need the type with the little ball float thingy. he can use this kind


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Corey

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #35 on: May 02, 2010, 03:20:39 PM »

buk you might not hear leaks but ill be it does. when you get a working gauge turn off the gas and watch the pressure drop over time. its small amount but it only takes 10 seconds to close the bottle each time.

are you using a gas lense? what size cup?
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #36 on: May 02, 2010, 04:03:17 PM »

buk you might not hear leaks but ill be it does. when you get a working gauge turn off the gas and watch the pressure drop over time. its small amount but it only takes 10 seconds to close the bottle each time.

are you using a gas lense? what size cup?

thanks

im using a gas lense cup size 7


uhhh the band saw isnt cutting

hf band saw set to horizontal using a bi metal 18 tpi blade

shit sucks dick it cut wood in a second but it aint doing shit to the metal

i set it lowest speed and highest speed no difference

i dont think im supposed to press down very hard on the band saw? how much tension should i have?
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Corey

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #37 on: May 02, 2010, 04:14:50 PM »

did you buy a harbor freight blade that came in a blue/yellow package? if you did check the tooth direction. when you uncoil them out of the package they are facing the wrong way so you have to turn them inside out.
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #38 on: May 02, 2010, 04:19:16 PM »

did you buy a harbor freight blade that came in a blue/yellow package? if you did check the tooth direction. when you uncoil them out of the package they are facing the wrong way so you have to turn them inside out.

What the fuck? Haha

I should kill myself
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Corey

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #39 on: May 02, 2010, 04:21:36 PM »

i made the same mistake with my first HF blade. couldnt figure out why it wouldnt cut. looked at the teeth and it was backwards.
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #40 on: May 02, 2010, 05:06:23 PM »

 :(
i made the same mistake with my first HF blade. couldnt figure out why it wouldnt cut. looked at the teeth and it was backwards.

I can't see the teeth because I have mine set up in a dark partt of the basement.. but I ran my fingers across it and it cut wood like butter that's why I didn't think to flip it

 But I just flipped it and it cut awesomely fuck dudde I can't even begin to describe the difference between band saw and chop saw lol

Fuck anyyyyone who says you can get by with a chop saw. Cut is so smoth and straight it scared me
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SgtB

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #41 on: May 02, 2010, 05:19:12 PM »

Make sure the argon bottle is either all the way open or all the way closed. High pressure bottles leak past the stem if you don't. I always close the bottle when I'm done. Nothing worse than finding a  near full bottle completely empty the next day. If the welder is off it's can be left plugged in. I don't unplug my stove. 

The first mistake I made when I learned to tig was being too hot just like you did. The lower the heat, the more time you have to watch the puddle form and then you can drag it back and forth. If the workpiece is glowing hot when you're done, it's either too much heat or you're going to slow. It's usually the first. You need just enough heat for good fusion and penetration.  Gray chalky looking stainless welds are overheated. Some call it cooking out the chrome.

If you see a blue flash, or stick the tungsten, stop right there and feather the end of the weld, and regrind your tungsten. Every. Single. Time.

Good luck. Be patient. The hand coordination is the hardest part.
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CSaddict

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #42 on: May 02, 2010, 06:41:04 PM »

:(
i made the same mistake with my first HF blade. couldnt figure out why it wouldnt cut. looked at the teeth and it was backwards.

I can't see the teeth because I have mine set up in a dark partt of the basement.. but I ran my fingers across it and it cut wood like butter that's why I didn't think to flip it

 But I just flipped it and it cut awesomely fuck dudde I can't even begin to describe the difference between band saw and chop saw lol

Fuck anyyyyone who says you can get by with a chop saw. Cut is so smoth and straight it scared me


Wait you flipped it? What? meaning you had the teeth up?
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SgtB

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #43 on: May 02, 2010, 07:11:34 PM »

Turn it  inside-out like a sock and the teeth change cutting direction.
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #44 on: May 02, 2010, 09:15:53 PM »

yeah i had the teeth flipped like he said flip it like a sock and it cuts just fine

i didnt get a chance to weld today

friend came over and we got the del sol 100% civic 100% and crx almost done just gotta hit up the jy tomorrow and pick up some exhaust studs

but tomorrow im going to lapeer to file a claim against the dbag who sold me the welder

we shall see
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LS1pwNzJ00

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #45 on: May 03, 2010, 02:21:54 AM »

Har har har, i can haz flow meter.


You know what i want..
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arsenio

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #46 on: May 03, 2010, 09:29:36 PM »

So, are you almost ready to build mani's yet?
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #47 on: May 04, 2010, 01:17:14 AM »

So, are you almost ready to build mani's yet?

for me? yes. to sell? no not really.
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PhilStubbs

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #48 on: May 05, 2010, 09:32:37 PM »

you dont happen to think some of us actually knew what we were talking about when we said you cant just wake up one day and be a fabricator do you?

lol. good luck though. i am glad to finally see some actual progress
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arsenio

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #49 on: May 05, 2010, 09:38:11 PM »

So, are you almost ready to build mani's yet?

for me? yes. to sell? no not really.

Come on. You can slap together a rotary manifold. Two fucking runners...
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PhilStubbs

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #50 on: May 05, 2010, 09:59:02 PM »

I can if you really do need one
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Corey

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #51 on: May 06, 2010, 01:29:28 AM »

rotary manifolds are pretty simple.
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #52 on: May 06, 2010, 02:13:45 AM »

so why is the band saw no longer cutting straight?

when it gets to the bottom the cut bends out

how tight can i safely tighten the blade?

i liked the welds i made today :noel:

my first mani build is coming up pretty soon.. id say 2 to 3 weeks max

i just need to figure out the best way to bevel a pipe and find out why the band saw isnt cutting straight..

also would be nice if i could cut the helmet in half... or something..

fucking lense fog up pretty quickly.. even tried it with a dust mask.. it made it stay clearer longer but bleh.. and i sweat alot so the sweat band is soaked half the time

cant really get comfortable with the bitch on :/

i wish i could afford metal for a welding table but i still cant.. rofl
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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #53 on: May 06, 2010, 02:45:25 AM »

Flap disc plus angle grinder = bevel in 5 sec.

Btw if your not confident holding the piece while grinding on it try resting the grinder on your leg a bit while sitting on a stool. This lets to stablize the heavy grinder and you can freely rotate the piece in your other hand.

btw a stool is almost 100% needed imo to weld and prep things. keeps you way more stable.
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Corey

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #54 on: May 06, 2010, 03:42:40 AM »

i use the side of my chop saw to bevel pipes. works better then a flap wheel or belt sander.
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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #55 on: May 06, 2010, 04:15:24 AM »

i use the side of my chop saw to bevel pipes. works better then a flap wheel or belt sander.

I used to do that untill i shattered one into a million pieces right in front of my face. So i use the angle grinder exclusively, even though i have lost grip and taken some nice chunks out of my thumb/hand.
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jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #56 on: May 06, 2010, 05:54:17 AM »

im using the bench grinder just fine for what it is but its putting a deep ass grove down the middle of the grinding wheel... is that normal?

bleh

the grove makes it kinda easier to bevel the pipe since its a grove but now that the band saw isnt cutting straight cuts the piece sometimes will jump around on the grinding wheel..
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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #57 on: May 06, 2010, 07:06:41 AM »

sounds like you are trying to cut too fast with the bandsaw. tighten the spring some. the thing with the HF bandsaws is that you really cant just leave them alone. you either have to set the spring tight where you have to actually push it through towards the end or you have to loosen it to the point where you have to hold it back till the blade gets all the way into the metal, then you can let it go. you also might have the guide (part with the little wheels that guide the blade)adjusted too far away.
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Joseph Davis

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #58 on: May 06, 2010, 07:47:14 AM »

i use the side of my chop saw to bevel pipes. works better then a flap wheel or belt sander.

I used to do that untill i shattered one into a million pieces right in front of my face.

That happened to my friend Johnny, laid the side of his face completely open.  He now looks like a serial killer.

jay

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Re: buks welding thread
« Reply #59 on: May 06, 2010, 09:53:37 PM »

i use the side of my chop saw to bevel pipes. works better then a flap wheel or belt sander.

I used to do that untill i shattered one into a million pieces right in front of my face.

That happened to my friend Johnny, laid the side of his face completely open.  He now looks like a serial killer.

tbone steak mask johnny?
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