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[turbohf]

Not bad, so what rods and pistons you went with?

they are je/srp's with eagle rods. look like they where installed and turned over by hand at most. and they are actually for a y8, so the right compression height and all. 9:1cr
ill take some pics later. i also want to do some light de-burring before install.

[turbohf]

PARTS!
 
 

scored this after work (D16Z6 intake manifold/etc). fucker took forever to meet up. i guess 15mins means an hour? looks clean right? he said it was....it wasnt. that was after pressure washing teh shit out of it. no big deal. but whatever. looks complete as shit. havent dug into it. dont mind the other boxes of shit, thats for my buddies build.




pistons/rods i keep mentioning. SRP 9:1 D16Y8 pistons. dont care to look for the part number. i took down all the edges on the crowns. made sure there where no nicks in the skirts, etc. look all sexy now.



thought i took pics of the block and shit... guess not. i notched the block. crank spins over, no hitting that i can notice, but i hit TDC/BTC FUCK!!!!!!!! rod bolts hit the girdle. cock. good thing i didnt return the grinder i borrowed.

also, wtf do i torque these rod bolts to?!?!?!

[92CXyD]

For head studs direct from ARP

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/111485-how-really-torque-arp-head-studs-straight-arp.html

He says for head studs:
 1. hand tighten in to block.
 2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
 3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
 -for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.

For rod bolts
http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=25

43ft-lbs, do this three times on new bolts.  (research on D-series.org)

[turbohf]

thanks.

i dont believe in head studs.

torque them 3 times?!?! im not sure if these have been torqued before?

[92CXyD]

thanks.

i dont believe in head studs.

torque them 3 times?!?! im not sure if these have been torqued before?

When in doubt 3x on the rod bolts.

On D-series there was  long discussion on y8 head bolts and their reuse w/ boost

If you are not using brand new y8 bolts then I would just go to ARP studs.

[jabberwock]

Hand tight also means allen wrench hand tight, not finger tight.  I fucked up one time and stretched a stud at the threads at 60ft-lbs because it wasnt in enough.  It ended up gnarling the block upon extraction.

[dvst8r]

Hand tight also means allen wrench hand tight, not finger tight.  I fucked up one time and stretched a stud at the threads at 60ft-lbs because it wasnt in enough.  It ended up gnarling the block upon extraction.

I have never seen that, and I have installed thousands of studs. I normally bottom mine and then loosen them a 1/8th a turn. I have seen blocks cracked from studs being over tightened into the hole though.

[jabberwock]

Yeah me neither.. Shit was weak.  I snug them with an allen wrench now but just snug.  I went to Atlanta from VA with a bad HG and back to VA, swapped HGs and when putting the head on it stretched so they were 2nd use.

[dvst8r]

Gay.

I have broken a couple studs before final torque. You do get the odd stud that had a bad heat treat or something.

[turbohf]

doesnt matter, im not buying headstuds until i have first hand proof that headbolts are an issue...

[turbohf]

PARTS!


headgasket (Y8), front/rear mains, timing belt, vTeK filter...



WORK!


block notching from the other night.

then some FML action...

that was actually try 2 of 3... rod bolts clear nicely now LOL.


oh yeah, fuck installing the mains then trying to get the rods bolted up. feel better about B18C/B18/B16 with just the outside caps just in case you need to flip it, but ehh.



anyway... there are the little noise makers in place...


tired, hungry, gave up about there....

[crxvtec91]

Damn looking good, I think you need a bigger turbo!

[turbohf]

Damn looking good, I think you need a bigger turbo!

actually, not sure i do. i kinda want to run this on e85 and max the turbo and injectors out.
i dont need or want big power. want fast spool, torque, broad powerband.

[turbohf]

PARTS!



ok, i have had these in the CRX before. EVO 560cc injectors. suppose to have sold them, but he is gonna get the 450s out the Galant instead.



WORK!




new honda headgasket on, head on, over torqued the headbolts, water pump, injectors, intake, and some other misc accessories.
VC is just on temp, working on painting it, and the one off the Y7 knocker out the old 4dr EK i sold. think im going with a wrinkle black or OEM look, and then something annoying? not sure. need to find a color i like.

can i paint a VC with automotive paint? like that color match shit? clear it? bake it? wtf do i do to make it last?

[turbohf]

WORK!

CRX/ITR seat pan swap! (link to RHMT Hybrid post)

[turbohf]

oh yeah.




final product of the CRX/ITR hybrid seat... its worthy of this thread now that there in the car...





WORK!

oh yeah...



was trying to figure out wtf i did to fuck up my tranny, why it only had 2 working gears....oops...

if you have these parts contact me ASAP. RHMT meet deadline!

[turbohf]

PARTS!


CRX alternator belt, Y8 dipstick (fucker aint going in my car orange), TurboSmart Boost Tee.


from Columbia River Manderal Bending: TD05 turbine/downpipe flange, DSM BOV flange (for GVR4 actually), and a couple bends.


the chinaRS flange, which seems pretty baller really, is from ebay.

oh yeah...

lol, chinaRS is wrinkle black now.


so is my VC, still needs the letters sanded or painted. not sure yet.



EMUSA/china38... couple springs and shit hardware. those stupid o-ring lookin things dont fit. springs arent marked. and dont know whats installed. quality.



thats it... new plan is to just keep buying shit for it. hope the parts just wander themselves onto the car, etc. im not gonna work on it...

[turbohf]

WORK!!!

going in reverse today cuz its more exciting that way...



THATS RIGHT FUCKER!... i have been fighting this this trans for a minute now. simple answer is that D-series are fuckin gay. and yes, i messed it up putting it back together. i have now found the problem, fixed teh shit i bent, again, and put it all back together. seems to work pretty smooth now! 


ACT PP fits now!!! OEM P2E (96-00 Civic) disc behind it.


homie hookup on the correct size flywheel. this one is a chromoly XTD flywheel complete with speed holes. weighs in at 8.125lbs before machining... and it needed a lot.


new OEM pilot bearing cuz the one that came with the ACT is stuck in the POS 88-89 flywheel.
scored a B18C 61mm throttle body off my buddy i was building the motor for. we put a blox 70mm or whatever on his.


had an issue with getting my oil fitting into the block, got pissed off and ordered this. fucker better not leak. already installed it along with a new Honda/Filtech oil filter.


thats all today. gonna do some serious work this weekend... stay tuned!

[crxvtec91]

Oh yea crx ftw!

[turbohf]

i was gonna bitch out. but spent some time looking for hardware, cuz the store was closed. spent some time dressing up and cleaning items also.




rear and passenger mount are setup. drivers is being a bitch. but doesnt matter anyway, im gonna take the bracket back off. its way to close to the timing belt. so im gonna grind away at the fucker till i think i have enough belt clearance. need to trim the lower cover for the crank pulley also.

[ratcityrex]

I have that same drop light. Sucks because when ever you set it on its back it hits the on/off switch and turns it off. Fucking piece of shit.... Getting there nog. U think you'll be able to drive it to the dyno day?

[turbohf]

I have that same drop light. Sucks because when ever you set it on its back it hits the on/off switch and turns it off. Fucking piece of shit.... Getting there nog. U think you'll be able to drive it to the dyno day?

omg. i hate that pos. cant wait to run it over with the car or something...


the signs are pointing to yes. im missing a fitting for the top of the turbo. i need to find a 12mm banjo to -3an fitting.

[turbohf]

WORK!
   
 
ok, today was my day off... plan was to work on this beast all day...
 

   
first up was the motor mount bracket. it was scaring me. it was close to the timing belt. and when you pushed on the belt it would go about the tooth depth in. so with a little belt slap...eeeeh.
 
 



looks like i forgot the before pic... but i cut in about 5-6mm or so i think. as you can see, i have clearance now.
 
 

details... small things. but shit, i noticed that some of the smallest bother me, and stack up quick. this was brand new, so it made it easier to paint than after its oil soaked.
 
 

threw the VC on for a shot.
 
 



i was kinda worried about the downpipe. needs to clear the stock front mount. oh yeah, swapped in an unmodified crossmember. i bought a bunch of materials from CRMB (Columbia River Mandrel Bending). but i kinda liked the look of the ITR downpipe i had sitting there. it was 180* the wrong way in every way. i cut that fucker up pretty good. and made what i think is a pretty decent downpipe.
 
 


my hot pipe. lol. this turned out little better than i was thinking it was going to. shit i should have took a pic of it installed. ill do it later. it has opened up my imagination for something else too...
thats a stock GVR4 elbow cut and rotated, whore to weld to btw, to a 2" sch40? weld el lol, and to a hacked up leftover piece of CRX/ITR chargepipe. then goes to a rubber 2.5" 90* Mishimoto coupler on the intercooler.



my power distribution block. i mounted this a while back. i need to figure out my starter cable. i cut it up when mounting this, then realized i should have done it another way lol.
 
 

linkage installed... threw my SK2 knob on it. think it looks good. little darker than my other one, but i find it slightly more fitting to the car. railed her threw the gears, STILL ALL THERE 
 
 


couple parting pics...


todays work:
~modded mount
~swapped crossmember
~put alternator and other accessory shit, hooked up hoses/harness/crank pulley/belt/etc...
~swapped BIG plug distributor shit into P06? housing. idk what it is, i just found it, seems to fit right . and now has the right plug, and all the internals are known good (out the B20)
~built downpipe
~built hot charge pipe
~installed shift linkage
~ported Z6 intake a little for B18C/61mm throttle body
~modded B18C throttle body for standard throttle wire setup, swapped 2.5bar MAP, and TPS onto it.
~installed TB to Z6 mani after cleaning the shit out of both... used new OEM P73 ITR gasket.
think thats it...
 
   

[crxvtec91]

Solid work nog!

[ratcityrex]

Looks like it might make it to the dyno day boosted.

[turbohf]

Looks like it might make it to the dyno day boosted.

idk. im kinda scared. but at the very least i got my ass in gear. shit will be done SOON!

[turbohf]

what a long ass day. even had a huge unexpected fire.... did you know brake cleaner and cardboard is highly flammable? 
 
 
welded an O2 bung in my buddies turbo Hyundai. 

he wanted to work on the GVR4. so we put the 680cc injectors, MAF-Translator, and Denso/SupraTT fuel pump and did some quick driving around to make sure everything was setup right. legit enough. stupid 1G MAF is off that now lol. still needs chargepipes and intercooler installed.
 
oh, only one pic of Galant work...

this was the  answer to my buddies "wtf? the terminals are different, do you have some connectors?"  lol of course i do 
 
   
 
CRX WORK:
 

changed up the design from previous setups. mainly cuz i sold the TiAL and gave im that upper pipe. wanted something nicer/different. this was just about what i had visioned.


thats the wastegate mount. im sure most people are use to seeing them on the manifold. well i just cut the flapper out the turbo, ported the hole, and mount wg like so... not 100% original idea. this is pretty much the setup on my GVR4 also. DSM guys use this setup all the time. so i know it works also.


im putting forth a little more effort on this project. so i made myself a dump tube...
 

street sweeper status. its got an angle cut that stops at the bottom of the crossmember.


did some work on the oil drain also. but not pics of that, its not that exciting. and really, just not many pics today. sorry.




todays work:
O2 in Hyundai
MAFT/pump/680s in GVR4
intake manifold on
cold chargepipe made
bov flange mounted
wastage mounted
dumptube made
started oil pan/turbo drain

probably not as much as i would have liked. but did get side tracked, and did get what i wanted to done.
 
 

[crxvtec91]

Oh yea do work!

[turbohf]

SUPER disappointed. was hoping to have this running this weekend for the NW Meet. but it looks like i was sent the wrong fitting, or maybe im retarded? idk. but this shit isnt gonna work.
 
 
little progress pic.

im really diggin this setup. its simple, but effective. and is just coming together nicely...


i keep buying shit from Honda. picked up
hardware (heat shield bolts, axle nuts, cotter pins, etc)
throttle cable (fuck ghettoness of making cables work, just buy the right one to begin with)
hoses

no pics, looks like the rest of the new OEM parts LOL.

 
 
some porting i did on the 14b

took the step off the turbine housing.


ported wastegate hole out, and smoothed the entrance. should aid flow. obviously cut the OEM flapper out the way


welded the flapper hole shut.

PS

this thing is a whore. stupid ass snap ring holding the compressor on. bolts are easier....if they dont break lol.

[jdmhatchracer94]

the fittings for the wastegate not working? Tap them for npt