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[Gold DA9]

Your girl aka that roommate you got a while back? Lol

lol... thats what i was thinking...

[HiProfile]

I think I said that wrong. She went up north for xmas, and is already back.

I want to pull the engine today, which requires removing 2" of ice. Next get the rear t-bracket & front bracket finished, the top trans bracket started, then do naughty things to said roommate. Most likely I'll be lazy and only do the 1st and last things on my list...

[crxvtec91]

I think I said that wrong. She went up north for xmas, and is already back.

I want to pull the engine today, which requires removing 2" of ice. Next get the rear t-bracket & front bracket finished, the top trans bracket started, then do naughty things to said roommate. Most likely I'll be lazy and only do the 1st and last things on my list...

Best part about having a lot of rhmt nig nog numbers is the ability to text "DO WORK" at will

[HiProfile]

Harness is done besides getting the split-loom taped up.

I also got the fuel rail figured out on the H23A. I used an F22A fuel rail, F22/H22 rail studs (2 since they didn't drill for the middle stud), F22/H22 rail spacers, and a 2mm thick washer to fit over the 7.5mm OD of the rail studs. The JDM rail has the banjo inlet on the wrong side, the injectors are 9.5mm shorter than typical USDM, the rail studs are much shorter, and the rail spacers are also shorter. If I didn't have spare rail studs, I'd just take a m6x1 threaded rod and cut each end for the studs. The fat H22 studs are >$5 from online dealers.

[crxvtec91]

Oh yea! I cant wait to see some dirty 3rds!

[HiProfile]

I worked a bit on the H23A fuel rail. It uses 10mm shorter injectors, I think similar to AP1 injectors. The rail also only connects to two studs on the manifold, which are very short.




I removed the 2 short rail studs, put on 2 normal length H22 studs, used two H22 rail spacers (I did a couple in aluminum), and a 1/4" washer under each spacer. This allows a USDM fuel rail to bolt up, in this case an F22A rail with the inlet on the passenger side. The nuts are hand tight, so the injectors will be very snug when torqued down.

[mycarslow]

anything new going on with this ?

[HiProfile]

Only thing to report is I ground the f22a6's crank for the b-series pilot bearing last time it went above 32F.

I'll be modding the B16 trans as well so I don't have to pull the other f22 & trans out of the car. It has snowed almost every day for the last week, so that should help things along. I also bought a 16g6 turbo with 300 miles on it for $175.

[HiProfile]

Okay, got some more work done. I modded the b16 trans so I can build brackets inside my garage. I also took pics of the grinding needed on the crankshaft to run a pilot bearing.



The b-series pilot bearing sticks out ~1.8mm, and is 32mm wide. I ground it a bit wider and deeper, 33mm & 2mm. I used a rotozip and a vermont-american grinding stone with the shank cut down. Dremel brand worn down fast and rounded off. I tested the fit by pushing the bearing out an 1/8", then bolting up to see what clearance is left in the flywheel hole. You could also use clay.





I marked the material that needs to be removed on the block for the halfshaft clearance. To make it easy I went with 3 easy to find locations. I'll cut straight up past the bolt's flange, across above the flange, then from the trans mating surface to the other cuts' intersection. The larger circle is the dust shield's diameter, the smaller is the halfshaft w/o it.





Lastly I snapped a pic of the front underside of the block. You can see the bolt location, I might make a thick bracket that ties that into the front mount holes. That way I don't have to grind nor have a bolt head half on the block. I'm also going to make a brace similar to the stock B angle brace. It will use the tranny's larger hole pictured, and the two holes on the block next to the pan. My h23a has them already threaded, the F22's need them drilled & tapped.

[crxvtec91]

Do work! IM still waiting, but thinking I might do a h trans because I can get one for free

[HiProfile]

More work done. I have the top motor-trans bracket bent and planned out, I also have the halfshaft plate planned out. First I'll test-fit with a chunk of MDF, then go with 1/4" plate steel. Below shows where you have to grind & cut the block for the halfshaft.

[crxvtec91]

Progress is always good! I think my plans are changing, got a free H trans, clutch, and flywheel; I just hope the hood closes....

[HiProfile]

I think full H/F swaps do fit since they lean the motor back and move it forwards. It's just the axle angle sucks, and the mixing of axles to get it working. In an EF this H2B will practically touch the firewall, and is 1/4" from an EG's prop valve. I really want a setup I can move from chassis to chassis easy, since I don't want to keep the del sol or integra that long. A full H swap won't do since you weld in the shifter box.

I should be able to manage with a 1/4"x3"x10" plate and shims to get the halfshaft perfectly lined up. I probably didn't have to grind the halfshaft, but did anyways. One thing is it MUST be a manual HS, auto won't have the right clearances.

[crxvtec91]

I think full H/F swaps do fit since they lean the motor back and move it forwards. It's just the axle angle sucks, and the mixing of axles to get it working. In an EF this H2B will practically touch the firewall, and is 1/4" from an EG's prop valve. I really want a setup I can move from chassis to chassis easy, since I don't want to keep the del sol or integra that long. A full H swap won't do since you weld in the shifter box.

I should be able to manage with a 1/4"x3"x10" plate and shims to get the halfshaft perfectly lined up. I probably didn't have to grind the halfshaft, but did anyways. One thing is it MUST be a manual HS, auto won't have the right clearances.

I would much rather do what your doing since you can always upgrade axles to k-series axles with out to much work.

[HiProfile]

Damn, never heard about that upgrade. Looks like a great low-buck axle swap! I'm putting the karcepts link for future reference, along with a hater-tack link.

http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=53
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3097190

[HiProfile]

Looks like a 3/8"x3"x9" chunk of metal works perfectly for the halfshaft bracket. It might require the block ground down for the bolt that will go in the halfshaft's upper hole. If you use steel, you could just weld the bolt from behind and grind down the head. I have 1/4 steel plate in hand, so I might try it with that and 3mm thick washers between the block.

You'd also have to cut the ear off the halfshaft that points to the tranny if you plan on using the stock oil sender on any H-block. It's not needed if you run an oil pressure gauge, it only connects to the cluster light. F-blocks seem to have a plug in the hole and have it located above the filter like a D/B block.


Regardless, it looks like this might be a more solid/rigid mount than normal H2B kits. Also FAR less grinding. H2D kits also cut & grind a shitload off the corner mount spot vs this method. Enough remains via this method to revert this block by welding the block's corner hole back on.

[crxvtec91]

You can use 91 prelude hubs 36mm hubs on the dirty cheap!

[HiProfile]

It was warm yesterday (38F), so I got a bit more done.




I had 1/4" MDF left over from another project, and it turned out to be perfect for mock-up of the brackets. The side trans/engine bracket will be 3/16"x1.25" steel bar and 1/2" ID steel tubes (engine bolts).




The rear bracket will be a .375" thick 3"x9" aluminum plate. You have to remove some block material behind the halfshaft's upper bolt, 1/8" at most, for the bolt head. 1.5"x7/16" bolts will be best for the HS (3/8" shown), and 35mm long M10x1.25 bolts for the 3 block holes.




Another angle showing both brackets:





The front bracket, something I've never seen on any other no-kit H2b, will be 1.5"x1/8" angle iron. I'd love 1.25x1/4" for strength, but *anything* here is above and beyond what has worked for other people. IIRC the F22 has an untapped hole at 119mm from the trans and an undrilled hole at 75mm. The H23A has 2 tapped holes, one at 74mm out and the other at 103mm. I'm holding up the angle iron in place of MDF in the pic.





All that's left is to cut, drill, and weld some steel & aluminum. The rear t-bracket is very minor, I only have to cut the ears off and weld some plate steel on. I'm hoping if I drill holes for a B and H2B swap, it can be used for either engines.

[crxvtec91]

IM liking the progress!

[HiProfile]

Halfshaft work is done! Compared to the normal H2B method (and especially H2D), there is far less grinding on the rear.



Previously I showed how the block has to be cut to accept the halfshaft. Today I fitted a junk axle and clearanced the block, as well as finished the bracket. It is 3/8" thick and 3"x10". The holes were all drilled 7/16" & 3/8"x1.5" bolts to hold the halfshaft on the bracket. This allowed enough play to get it on, as well as shift it up or down to eliminate binding.



You'll want to find the middle of movement and secure it, next turn it to check for binding, then torque it all down. Binding shows when it gets harder to turn at a certain spot, in my case spinning the whole diff for a 1/4 turn (non-LSD).



The next 4 pics show roughly where & how deep you need to grind. You have to cut into the oil pan enough to just take the lip off. Unlike the kits, you don't have to compromise any of the fasteners on the oil pan. The cup clears quite a bit, but all this is for the boot. In the right side was cut a little deeper to make sure a thick boot clamp won't rub.









One thing not shown is where the bracket must be notched behind the HS carrier/bearing. Its a 3/8" triagular notch and easy enough to figure out.

[HiProfile]

THe weather was SO nice here (40F...) I decided to get the trans bracket done too. I was really rushing so it's not perfect, but really easy to make. I'll probably make some thin welds on the outside so it doesn't stay looking like it was only tacked together. I'll be duplicating these at least once, so I consider this more a prototype.





It's all 3/16" steel, mig welded. I only have to grind a tad under the gold bolt on the left, since the weld touches the trans hole's edge.

The main forces working on this are the bolts pulling on each respective plate, but also trying to bend the engine bolts. They pass through 45mm of nothing before the block's threads. In response I added the two tubes and welded them to the top plate to prevent movement from sheering forces. I've seen people use nothing, and others use a fat stack of washers. The other problem - the only thing preventing the block & trans from splitting apart is the metal between the bolts. Boxing it as such eliminates that possibility.

The gold bolts are 1/2"x3" grade 8. The H22 blocks will need the lower webbing cut a bit to fit the rear bolt behind the trans hole. H & F's will both need enlarging of the timing hole above the block stamp. A few seconds with a saw in each spot is all that is needed, pics of that will be next. If it's cold as f*** out, I'll put up pics of the harness first.

[crxvtec91]

You make it look soooo simple!

[92CXyD]

You make it look soooo simple!

Yeap 

[PhilStubbs]

I just wrapped up an H2B in an ek hatch. I'm so glad it's done, I can clean the shop and get back on my F23 crx that this thread motivates to do. Lol

[crxvtec91]

I just wrapped up an H2B in an ek hatch. I'm so glad it's done, I can clean the shop and get back on my F23 crx that this thread motivates to do. Lol

DO WORK!

I still got to take apart my f23 and get that going as well.

[HiProfile]

I got the f22b1 in the del sol pulled out to give it the full treatment. After that it'll go back in for a final shakedown, and I'm hoping to get it running in the Integra by April. It will be dependant on the weather, but either way I'll be driving an F2B swap month.

I also got the front of the block ground away for the slave cylinder. I was going to try welding the rear t-bracket, but my b16 tranny's lowest 14mm bolt hole is messed up. I already have a m14x1.5 tap on the way - I only have an m14x1.25 for the pass side tranny bracket holes.

[HiProfile]

I spent a bit more time modding the block I just pulled out and also took pics of the slave cylinder mounting.

It took just under 2hr to grind, drill, and cut all the spots on that motor including the slave cylinder spot. I'll be making a template for the slave cylinder and rear bracket eventually for people to print out and outline themselves. All you need is a sawzall or hacksaw, a drill with 1/2" bit (1/4" or 1/8" help for the slave cyl cuts), and a grinder of some sort.



The slave actually fits really nice; it doesn't cut into anything that's needed. There won't be any shifting issues since it uses the stock location & angle.








I also took a picture of the last spot to cut, above the block code stamp. On blocks with the timing window, you'll just extend it to the stamp's flat area. The f22b1 doesn't have a window, so I just cut a minimal amount. I'll be enlarging it so I can get a box wrench on the bolt head, in this case I threw a weld blob to stop it from spinning. I did the same thing with the other hole in the top bracket, since it's nice to leave it loose until after bolting the block holes.

[crxvtec91]

Maybe a dumb question but does the crank pulley have any timing marks on it?

[HiProfile]

The f22b1 crank pulley does, so does the f23 pully I have. The h23a and f22a6 do not, so I'll have to transfer the marks or use the crank pulleys. It will be easy enough to find TDC on the motors and create a timing mark on the timing covers.

[crxvtec91]

The f22b1 crank pulley does, so does the f23 pully I have. The h23a and f22a6 do not, so I'll have to transfer the marks or use the crank pulleys. It will be easy enough to find TDC on the motors and create a timing mark on the timing covers.

Ahh, thanks I hadnt look at my f23 crank pulley in a few months.