Topic: Very Fast E-Cutout! (MOAR PICS) (Read 66162 times)

HiProfile · « **on:** March 09, 2009, 03:36:32 AM »

I've edited this post so Rick Pedophile at homemadeturbo can't pull any shit. The vids/pics stay the same, as I uploaded them to those sites BEFORE making my HMT thread.

Its rather simple. I used was a 65mm mustang throttle body, some microswitches, a double-pull double-throw relay ('dpdt'), a cheap 60" throttle cable, moved by an EF wiper motor. Time & material for me was still less than a slow-ass $150 cutout. The best part is my cutout's motor only draws power when moving, not when stopped. To activate it you simply switch the relay on. I just ground one terminal using an eCtune GPO and it fires open...

Well how fast is it? Watch my videos:

FYI here is the slower speed; the shaft spins with 50% more torque/speed on the higher level.

Titled the ON-CAR test. Volume is messed due to auto-adjusing mic

The reference $250+ wireless e-cutout that takes a full 5 seconds to open. FAIL.

NA B16 Fartcan vs my Turbo D16 e-cutout. There's a 2nd vid there with the cutout open the whole time over at youtube.

(Zipties aren't shown in this picture)

99.9% Finished product. All that's left is a cover, and tabs for bolting it down.

Here's the circuit diagram that I came up with, hopefully the colors make it easy to deal with. The switches are normally-closed microswitches, I have them set to ~75% of the distance. In blue is the 3rd relay I use w/a delay cricuit to keep it open momentarily (~1sec), mainly between shifts when it's set to open at 60% throttle angle. The round wiper motor plug is viewed looking at the pins; the bottom-middle pin is connected for low speed, bottom-right for high-speed.

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2009, 03:38:45 AM »

you should use a shift knob with buttons on it....

thats good shit

d112crzy · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2009, 03:44:12 AM »

Is this your post? If so, mind posting pictures of the electrical device you made to open it? That shit's pretty dope. You could make some good money off it if you ever decide to.

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2009, 03:48:27 AM »

RHMT Cutout on ebay for $150 shipped with a throttle body of your choice

92CXyD · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2009, 08:28:02 AM »

gangsta fuel tank heater. ;D

No seriousely I may need your help I have a valve that opens like that to route air around my SC14.
The problem is the valve was oroginally controlled by an ecu out of a toyota previa.

I may need figure out a way to run a solenoid like the one you are using.
Have the valve open up when the a/c style clutch is not engaged and the by-pass valve is electronical.

I do not want to use a vacumn actuator on that valve.

G2 Racer · « **Reply #5 on:** March 09, 2009, 10:46:17 PM »

Thanks pretty fucking awesome I must say, how big is the TB bore?

Atticus · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2009, 12:20:18 AM »

Quote from: d112crzy on March 09, 2009, 03:44:12 AM

Is this your post? If so, mind posting pictures of the electrical device you made to open it? That shit's pretty dope. You could make some good money off it if you ever decide to.

x2
i would love to see an electrical diagram

was going to make a manual leaver by the shifter on the passenger side.... but dam thats sick :yes:

HiProfile · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2009, 01:50:27 AM »

I'll be posting pix and diagrams later, I'm just lazy. Electriclly its actually quite simple, just has to be adjusted right. The mustang TB is 65mm, virtually the same on all min-90's to early-00's ford V8's. The 65mm TB + stock exhaust piping is equal to a 3" pipe cross-section, although a FULL 3" exhaust is enough for 500whp. Right now its using eCtune to open the cutout above 75% throttle - automaticly. I do have overrides to open or keep it shut. A cheap nog using uberdata/BRE/etc could just use a 3-volt or 5-volt relay tied to the TPS; a smart nog would use a voltage compairator.

With the SC14 blower, are you going to twincharge it with a turbo, or use that valve as a vac bypass? If you're twincharging, a guy on H-T named rmcdaniels has tried it a few ways. He found that slowly opening it with a wastegate actuator after a set PSI works the best for response, IAT's, and power. Regardless, my junk is basicly a gearhead motor with an arm on it, pulling the cable.

$150 minus rhmt's cut would be tits, and still cheaper than any other cutout.

1Fast68 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2009, 03:00:26 PM »

good work :yes:

Rosario4124 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2009, 04:27:11 PM »

budget shit FTW

HiProfile · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2009, 04:09:15 AM »

Quote from: Rosario4124 on March 10, 2009, 04:27:11 PM

budget shit FTW

Actually I wanted to use a regular cutout assembly, but nobody was selling a broke unit, and the companies never returned my emails. Turned out better in EVERY way.

G2 Racer · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2009, 04:08:18 PM »

Where's the wiring diagram?

92CXyD · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2009, 05:40:13 PM »

Quote from: HiProfile on March 10, 2009, 01:50:27 AM

I'll be posting pix and diagrams later, I'm just lazy. Electriclly its actually quite simple, just has to be adjusted right. The mustang TB is 65mm, virtually the same on all min-90's to early-00's ford V8's. The 65mm TB + stock exhaust piping is equal to a 3" pipe cross-section, although a FULL 3" exhaust is enough for 500whp. Right now its using eCtune to open the cutout above 75% throttle - automaticly. I do have overrides to open or keep it shut. A cheap nog using uberdata/BRE/etc could just use a 3-volt or 5-volt relay tied to the TPS; a smart nog would use a voltage compairator.

With the SC14 blower, are you going to twincharge it with a turbo, or use that valve as a vac bypass? If you're twincharging, a guy on H-T named rmcdaniels has tried it a few ways. He found that slowly opening it with a wastegate actuator after a set PSI works the best for response, IAT's, and power. Regardless, my junk is basicly a gearhead motor with an arm on it, pulling the cable.

Turbo and yeah i looked at rmcdaniels but my SC14 is mounted where a/c compressor was and I have it before the TB so I treat it like fast spooling turbo.

$150 minus rhmt's cut would be tits, and still cheaper than any other cutout.

Turbo242 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 12, 2009, 12:27:54 AM »

I had this idea a wile ago but the fab guy at our shop told me that the alu would melt after a while, but that shit sounded like it sealed great!!

my other idea was to use a "Jake Brake" or exhaust brake from a diesel, but those are $$$

I bought this, paid quite a bit ,but with my MBC i can set the boost level and have it stay shut at 5lbs and open all the way up at 12lbs :yes:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-ACS-010&Category_Code=BCS

92CXyD · « **Reply #14 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:15:54 AM »

Quote from: Turbo242 on March 12, 2009, 12:27:54 AM

I had this idea a wile ago but the fab guy at our shop told me that the alu would melt after a while, but that shit sounded like it sealed great!!

my other idea was to use a "Jake Brake" or exhaust brake from a diesel, but those are $$$

I bought this, paid quite a bit ,but with my MBC i can set the boost level and have it stay shut at 5lbs and open all the way up at 12lbs :yes:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-ACS-010&Category_Code=BCS

Nice that gave me some ideas I'll have to talk to my machine shop and welder but I might have something made like that. :yes:

MantisX · « **Reply #15 on:** March 12, 2009, 11:51:04 AM »

I dont think thats a bad price at all considering what it does. The fuckers are out of stock though.

marcj · « **Reply #16 on:** March 12, 2009, 12:31:34 PM »

i'm sure i've mentioned this before on another thread, but this is fuckin baller!
you should do a complete write up

HiProfile · « **Reply #17 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:54:58 AM »

Quote from: HiProfile on March 10, 2009, 01:50:27 AM

I'll be posting pix and diagrams later, I'm just lazy.

:yes:

Actually tonight I was taking pix for a DIY 3bar-into-stock-MAP-housing write-up similar to the old one by madmax. I'll get to it all, dunnn worray...

btw if you want the parts cost, $50 total:

$13 - EF wiper motor
$5 - screws & metal
$7 - cable
$20 - mustang TB
$5 - switches

SiFlyBy · « **Reply #18 on:** March 15, 2009, 12:07:06 AM »

I just picked up a 3" e-throttle body from a f-250 with a 5.4l engine. There is nothing wrong with it, it flips open in about 1/4 of a second. will probably use it in a future build.

Urban Indian · « **Reply #19 on:** March 16, 2009, 04:06:09 PM »

balin

. If my exhaust didnt flow so damn good.

I would use this

Emperor · « **Reply #20 on:** March 19, 2009, 04:42:23 PM »

Quote

I just picked up a 3" e-throttle body from a f-250 with a 5.4l engine. There is nothing wrong with it, it flips open in about 1/4 of a second. will probably use it in a future build

what did they cost in usa?

e-TbÂ´s cost you a fortune in europe

foumer · « **Reply #21 on:** March 25, 2009, 11:39:15 AM »

Nice work. I am thinking of making one but a little more simple. Just grabbing a throttle body removing the spring and attach a wastegate actuator to it. Like the one SP makes. Might be cost a little more though.

Whitey · « **Reply #22 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:36:29 PM »

where did you buy the throttle cable at?

Aero · « **Reply #23 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:51:33 AM »

I'm going to have to try making something like this for my DSM.

HiProfile · « **Reply #24 on:** March 27, 2009, 02:16:44 AM »

Quote from: Whitey on March 25, 2009, 04:36:29 PM

where did you buy the throttle cable at?

the magical island of ebay

I duno who from, it was a while ago. Usually they're sold as minibike/gocart cables, motorcycle cables will have specific ends. I just shopped around and got a pair for $14 or something. Just don't get the cheap single-core deal, it has to be a flexable cable.

I also made a real cheap one with exhaust pipe, a plate, 2 special graphite-bronze bushings, nuts/shaft, and 1/16" teflon. Its kinda like MacGyver's version. I just got the wrong strength return spring, then borrowed the TB idea. I'll post up the pics for that one day, since you can then use any size pipe.

Aero I forbid you to even think about it until your engine is rebuilt and you have data on that vgt turbo! :yes: I'm sure afterwards your shit will be awsome.

Toysrme · « **Reply #25 on:** March 27, 2009, 11:31:55 PM »

~~second video (one that counted) is off youtube. fix plz~~

its back,

Aero · « **Reply #26 on:** March 28, 2009, 12:02:21 AM »

Quote from: HiProfile on March 27, 2009, 02:16:44 AM

Aero I forbid you to even think about it until your engine is rebuilt and you have data on that vgt turbo! :yes: I'm sure afterwards your shit will be awsome.

Haha well it looks like Ill be moving the car again probably tuesday. This place has 2 lifts, and shouldn't be any issues with the person who owns the place. I've never gotten to use a lift before.

I'll probably start working an it next weekend finally. :yes:

danz · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2009, 03:53:02 PM »

need wiring diagram and part numbers.

i can solder like a mofo but im retarded when it comes to how shit works.

show me which wires to connect to what so i can make one.

ill give you a quick tug.

HiProfile · « **Reply #28 on:** March 30, 2009, 04:39:26 AM »

Actually you only have to crimp, given the right switches & relay. I'll try to get it up tomorrow, I found the original diagram.

SirDragsAlot · « **Reply #29 on:** March 30, 2009, 08:40:50 PM »

can the throttle body handle the high exhaust temps? look like a "hot" idea :yes:

News:

Author Topic: Very Fast E-Cutout! (MOAR PICS) (Read 66162 times)