Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[92CXyD]

It cranks over easier. ;D

I had it running with little smoke but I can not get it to run well yet.

When I got back from RHMT D-day I had water in the oil pan b/c I forgot to put a oil filter back on the engine after we cutup the original filter I had on the engine.

I had spark isssues so I pulled the plugs to find water in the sparkplug holes.

Dried all that out and cleaned the plugs.

I did get the dizzy replaced with a non-vtec obd one bolts up good and looks like it is clocked in the right place.

I got an adj. cam gear and per. article on d-series I advance the cam 4.5deg (half a tooth). ;D

I decided to just clean up the bearings and flush out anymore metal pieces I might have missed before.

I put the bearings back in and torque everthing back to what they were suppose to be at.

I can hand crank the motor now with a little effort.

I'm right now figuring out the Crome tuning.

[chris]

non vtec obd1 dizzy ftw on d16y8 head.

[92CXyD]

I got my car running ok now.

I found that my diys 3-bar map was bad so I put a stock map sensor back on the car and the car started right up.

It runs but now the rad. fan does not kick on.
I checked the relay, fuses, and even jumped the sensor and no fan.
I ran a power directly to the fan and it kicks on so some how I have a break in the wiring but that makes no sense.

I have the 390cc inj. on from when we switched out the 788cc Delphi. So I'm going to put the 780cc inj. back on.

I'm ordering another 3-bar map from digikey and get that soldered with less wattage this time.

I'm getting another flange welded on the piping for another 1g DSM bov.

I'm thinking of running the bov signal lines to the port for the brake booster.
I originally ran the vac. signal line teed off the ext. map signal hooked up (b/c I was using a h23 tb)
Any suggestions?

If I had not have the V-AFC still hooked up I would have not notice the map signal was constantly at -760mm hg and I would still be chasing my tail. ;D

So I guess they are good for something.


As soon as I get the 3-bar map and some other minor things fixed I will post ripper vids.

[ApexSilver06MR]

bump for updates

[92CXyD]

bump for updates

I hope to have updates this weekend.

I ran out of gas and too fucking poor to buy more fuel until thurs. 

My fan issue is taken care of by making the wiring rats nest with my ecu and v-afc less of a rats nest.

I have the delphi 75lb inj. back in, 3-bar map sensor done, and the egt gauge works now.

I still need to straighten out the WB O2 gauge b/c it worked well before engine build.

I need to get a flange welded on the charge pipe for my second 1g dsm bov.

Get the full throttle switch setup on tb.

Figure out how to change the S/C bypass valve to work as an on/off affair as oppose to toyota's original ecu valve angle motor setup. I may even have an adapter made to run a 1g DSM bov there and have it work of the vacumn from the S/C output mani. vac, signal.

I want to do a better breather/PVC system .

And the most important thing get some fuel in the tank so I can street tune this bitch.

Get a new vatozone cone air filter this time a longer rechargeable one that does not rust.

When I was playing with the S/C, when I had my car running with 390cc inj., I popped a clamp on the charge piping already.

Oh yeah I will be cutting the charge piping down a bit on the passenger side after the 90deg 2.5" to 3" adapter so that I can run the piping a little tighter and put a regular front bumper on without cutting a large whole in the corner of another bumper.

I'm trying to have my car ready for a possible Corvette Roundup race Labor Day weekend. I have done two with regional Corvette Club on a 3.25 mile course and i did very well.

This time I want to place in the top 10 percent instead of in the middle of 70+ Corvette field.

I'm also looking at getting my car to Douglas Motor Speedway for some 1/4mile slips before going to Bandimere in Sept. for an import show and race (my car is too ugly for show) ;D

I still plan on running a turbo on top of this setup in the future most likely a Holset but that will be after some dyno tuning and seeing what this setup will do reliablely. I will probably have to go to Denver or back upto Seattle area for dyno time who knows.

I found something interesting in Crome P30 Plugins Controls Air Conditioning Cutoff I can use that to turn the S/C off if I get too high in the revs. for comfort. I like that then I will not have to just rely on the A/C switch on the dash or the full throttle switch on the tb as much. ;D

[HiProfile]

My fan issue is taken care of by making the wiring rats nest with my ecu and v-afc less of a rats nest.

Fuck I hate the V-AFC wiring aftermath, even if installed by a pro into his own car. And there's so little realistic funtionality with those POS's in a Honda.

FYI as you may have noticed, it's best to get the car running FULLY STOCK in terms of fuel & electronics before adding shit. That way each issue can be traced to the last thing you installed, rather than 20 things that mask each other's problems.



You do have the vacuum bypass installed & functioning, right???

[92CXyD]

Ok I decided to not have a "double barrel action" with the bov b/c with the full throttle switch I can have the S/C turned off when I let go of the throttle. Before I use to just hit the a/c button on the dash just before I let the throttle go to keep the piping from popping off. I do have most of my piping with a bead welded around the ends except for one spot.

As for the vacumn bypass (1g DSM BOV) I have that hooked up to the brake booster circuit before the check valve.
I will hook it up to the PCV outlet on the intake mani. when I figure out what I'm doing with the PCV/breather system.

[HiProfile]

As for the vacumn bypass (1g DSM BOV) I have that hooked up to the brake booster circuit before the check valve.
I will hook it up to the PCV outlet on the intake mani. when I figure out what I'm doing with the PCV/breather system.

Either I don't understand you, or you don't understand the function of a vac bypass on a supercharger. When the throttle is closed and the SC still turning, you build boost in charge pipes but pull vacuum in the intake manifold. That vacuum opens the bypass, which bypasses (re-routes) the pressure from the charge pipes to the intake side of the supercharger (or a raw dump to atmosphere). W/o one you build a shitton of boost in the pipes, which is causing your beaded pipes to fly off.

A typical vac bypass is a simple valve that gets held OPEN with vacuum developed between the TB and SC or (in your case) TB and cylinder head. Once it sees 0 vacuum [at WOT], it closes to allow boost to build. I honestly can't imagine how a dsm bov could function like that unless you've really hacked it up.

[92CXyD]

I think you do not understand the SC14 supercharger there is no vac. bypass only a 6-wire ecu controled bypass valve.  2-wires are constant battery voltage and 4-wires in sequence to open the valve. Then reverse that sequence to close the valve.

I have been using a 1g DSM bov to help since I have no just to recirculate pressure around the s/c.

If I have s/c turned off the bov stays open due to vac. signal from tb.

Keep in mind most s/c have the tb ahead of the s/c. 

I treat this s/c like a turbo. In that s/c is a compressor pushing charged air into intercooler then tb w/ a bov.

I have pipes popping b/c I do not have s/c turned off before the throttle completely closes and I'm not relieving pressure fast enough.

I'm working on a vac. or on-off electronic valve some I can only rely on the bov.

Since I have my car running (not in perfect order yet, I still need a street tune) I will work on the bracket for the full throttle switch.

And the s/c bypass. I'll try and get a scanned copy of the workings of this s/c bypass valve from the toyota shop manual I have.

[92CXyD]

The bitch runs not perfectly but she runs.     

The resistor box wiring hack job was not solder yet and power was not getting to the inj.

Fixed it and I'm trying to do a street tune on her now sorta b/c I have only a burn2 and hulog xtreme.

I have not figured out the datalog yet but I will.

[92CXyD]

Alright my car runs again really well I must say.

I have the Crome tuning issue straightened out.  I'll upload pict, crome bin for this build, and some vids. this weekend. I'm trying to get some dragstrip seat time this weekend or in two weeks.
All depends on how far off my tune is when I replace the wb.
It runs stronger then last summer when I first put the s/c on my junkyard special d16z6.
My next goal is to make the import show/race at Bandimere speedway Sept. 20th and maybe get some good times.

The setup:
D16z6 block bore 0.5mm over and decked 0.020"
D16y8 head w/ stock valvetrain and lightly ported by me and matched to a z6 intake mani.
Adj. Cam gear (egay)
Vitara pistons w/ TT rods with new ARP fasteners.
Stock rings (0.5mm os)
Sealed Power main and rod bearings
Modified oil pump and passages in block including matching hole sizes to main bearings
Chipped P28 using Chrome 1.5.3
Delphi 75# inj. w/ resistor box
70-65mm TB w/ spacer matched to my z6 intake (TB from Chris @ Polarbeartuning.com)
Stock ex trans.
SC14 supercharger (1440cc/rev or 84cid) from a '96-'97 Toyota Previa.
Crush 1g DSM BOV as a recirculator valve (works awesome btw)

This setup seems to reach 10psi+ faster.
 I can go to 8k rpms if I want which can be of a handful car seems to torque stear a little.

With a little luck this winter I'm strapping a Holset on top this setup. ;D
Twincharge/compound boost/crazy boost  :yes:

I'm working out the launch control in Crome for this setup now because the way this setup is in first gear the s/c barely noticeable and my 60ft will probably suck (>2.5sec)

[chris]

Cant wait to see the video


and its polarbeartuning.com

[92CXyD]

Cant wait to see the video


and its polarbeartuning.com

Corrected

I had a setback while playing with my car Fri. (8/14). I fried my alternator the rotor had a broken lead.

My battery lead to the underhood fuse box was too shitty to help keep the battery charged so I was running most of the time on alternator.

I manage to wedge a red Optimus battery in and redid some cables and took stash of 4 alternator and built a good one.
I forgot how easy it is to work on Denso alt. just simple hand tools no souldering.

[cynical_monstar]

So you going to twin charge or what? You know the company that makes the SC12 and SC14 for Toyota also made a TX20 which would be a SC20 if it was used on a Toyota. The company is Ogura Clutch that made them. It would be interesting. How many lbs are you making and how much hp you think it is putting out?

[ApexSilver06MR]

vid?

[d112crzy]

Wait, so you still had some resistance while turning the motor over? There really should be little to no resistance dude. Either way, bout time you finally get this thing up and running.

[92CXyD]

Yeah my car runs great. I'm just trying to get vid camara that works so I can do some ripper vids. Maybe today, I'll have a vid. depends on how many police officers are out today.
Last night every officer for city, county and state were out. They do this one weekend a month to bust people for tail lights, seat belts, speeding, exp. tags, etc.
So I'm hoping there will be less activity today.

I'm starting to chip a few peoples' ecus around here since no one has a clue. ;D
I did a base map for a GSR using a P28 and nailed the middle of the green lights on this guys A/F ratio gauge.
And he owns a dealership that sells a lot of used honda/acura models and wants me to burn some base maps for his engine swaps and F.I. setups.  ;D

So thanks to all who have posted good quality tech for me to learn from.

[92CXyD]

Alright I had tear down my engine due to a noisy rod bearing.

Took the head off and pulled the pistons and realize that the rod #4 top ring was not gapped enough stared scratching the cylinder wall.
Rod bearing #4 look like shit again.

Measured the crank main and rod journal and they all checked out.

I check my TT rods  and #4 was a little out of round so scored a set of used Eagle rods for $90. ;D

Checked the Eagles rods and they checked out.

Installed the Eagle rods, king bearings, and new rings (gapped 0.018" top and 0.020" second) tonight.

Kept hand cranking the engine to see if there was any excessive resistance.

Bolt the main girdle snug with main bolts and the resistance was a little more than before bolting the main on.

Then I torqued the mains to 40 ft-lbs (not the final setting)

After all that, I hand cranked the short block and now I can not crank the engine by hand.

I was all discouraged and realize I may have to grind the girdle because I'm using Eagle rods and not TT rods.

Damn you Eagle rods !!!!!

So tomorrow I'll check the the rod clearance with girdle and if that doesn't work I have that damn block out and start from  scratch.

The stuff I have planned this month:

Dual Core radiator
Fuel pressure w/ electric sender
Log mani with a flange for the He351ve and 50mm wg.
3" Exhaust
3" Intercooler piping
25"x12"x3" Intercooler
Dual intank CDM walbaros
1/2" fuel line
New manifolds for my SC14 supercharger
Fabbing a s/c bypass to run the air around the s/c when the a/c clutch is disengaged using h23 IAB parts, a purge valve, and a full throttle switch.
Mounting both of my 1g dsm BOV before the intercooler
SS brake lines
MSD fuel pump voltage booster
AVC-R boost controller
Crower valve springs with Ti retainers
Order a He351ve from JD or egay. ;D

Yeah I'll be busy this month I'll post tons of pict.
Already uploaded picts on Photobucket.


 

[Teg2boo]

Yeah I'll be busy this month I'll post tons of pict.

That's what I was about to say. If you do all that in one month, you'll be fucking busy!

Since things never fit on the first try, I say you'll finish in 2 months

[92CXyD]

Yeah I'll be busy this month I'll post tons of pict.

That's what I was about to say. If you do all that in one month, you'll be fucking busy!

Since things never fit on the first try, I say you'll finish in 2 months

Yeah I'm saving the turbo part for last just in case I fall behind schedule I can at least make the RHMT meet 5-15.

The rest of the stuff I got my motivation back and using at least 3hrs./day after work to get this done.

I have a couple of people at work who can help with welding, and fab. work.

[ratcityrex]

So no vice grips holding the dizzy on this year? .......lol

Hope you figure out why its hard to turn over. Did you plastigauge (spell check here) your bearings to see if everything was good? Im in for the updates! Get er done!

[92CXyD]

So no vice grips holding the dizzy on this year? .......lol

Hope you figure out why its hard to turn over. Did you plastigauge (spell check here) your bearings to see if everything was good? Im in for the updates! Get er done!

Yeah all the bearing clearances checked out and this time the rings are gapped correctly.

[ratcityrex]

Did u use lube when putting together

[92CXyD]

Did u use lube when putting together

Yeah lots of assembly lube.   

[bigdaddyvtec]

Get that fucker running na for a minute to make sure itzas okay first with all the issues your havin man

[92CXyD]

Get that fucker running na for a minute to make sure itzas okay first with all the issues your havin man

The engine usually runs NA until engage the clutch on the s/c.

[bigdaddyvtec]

i dont see nay reason to bolt that clusterfuck monstrosity you have to the motor till you know the motor runs this time... LOL

[ratcityrex]

I agree, keep it na untill you have a few miles on the clock. I would also throw a stock tune, and stock injectors too, just to rule any of the bullshit out.

[92CXyD]

I agree, keep it na untill you have a few miles on the clock. I would also throw a stock tune, and stock injectors too, just to rule any of the bullshit out.

I drove for 3 mo. on the 788cc inj. and 3-bar map.

I noticed my wb o2 would go to 22:1 when I was in boost at revs above 5k.

I realize I never replaced the fuel pump and it has 208k on it. ;D

I have two pumps coming. ;D

[d112crzy]

I don't think you understand the concept of KISS.

Start as it if were stock, meaning stock injectors, stock intake and exhaust mani's, stock map sensor...be sure the motor runs perfectly before you do more shit to it. It makes troubleshooting so much easier.

I've never trusted plastigage, especially old plastigage.