Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[crttaz]

I've no image sowing how much sealant I use, but less than 1/2 of what you used.

Was the old ISB exploded??? If so did you strip the shafts and clean them out? If not little pieces of ISB cage and excess sealant will block the oiling ports....not good!

[92CXyD]

I'm disassembling the trans. tonight and I'll fix everything.

I wiped down everything in side the casing and clutch housing I did not see any pieces of bearing cage, so I think I got it all out but I'll double check.

[crttaz]

[92CXyD]

I did what Mista Bones said to do.

I reinstalled the ISB in the correct position.

I staked the CSB after flushing out all the nylon bearing cage pieces trapped under the plastic under the CSB.



Then I stripped the shafts and cleaned all the oil passages. (there was a lot of nylon bearing cages pieces in those passages)

Then I put everything back together, I laid a smaller bead of silicone on the clutch housing, then I proceed to put the transmission casing back on.

I get within 1/8" of the snap ring seating in the groove of the ball bearing assembly on top of the CS with ring going around the bearing.

Then I use the casing to clutch housing bolts to pull the casing done to seat the snap ring in the groove  and  the bolts are almost seated.

I hear a sharp snap and decided to pull the casing back off and find this:


Part of the outer race is broke off.   

So I have another bearing to be here tomorrow and try this all over again.

I was wondering do I have to have the transmission in any particular gear?

I did not see anything about needing it in neutral when getting the casing back on.

Any more tips out there guys before I do this again tomorrow?

[ironcrx]

The EXACT same thing happened to me the first time around.  however I went driving with it like that 

Best thing you can do if KEEP AN EYE ON THE SNAP RING and make sure its as open as fucking possible during the entire process.  Then use a rubber mallet to seat the case.

[ratcityrex]

Shitty man. On the bright side you can wipe all that blue silicone off and put a thin layer of the grey rtv on. I only run the grey when I put them back together, I also use the snap ring plyers and a rubber hammer to put my case's back together.

[92CXyD]

Shitty man. On the bright side you can wipe all that blue silicone off and put a thin layer of the grey rtv on. I only run the grey when I put them back together, I also use the snap ring plyers and a rubber hammer to put my case's back together.

I did use use a snap ring pliers and and rubber mallet.  This evening I saw a possible reason for the issue a rather large burr above the ring keeping the bearing from seating into the casing completely.

I ordered a replacement snap rings and the bearing I broke. Should be here tomorrow.

I used gray silicone before. But I was using way too much and I ran out so just grabbed my blue shit.

[Eggylshatch]

just so you feel less stupid, I did the same thing.  Just got anxious-- they take a good bit of finaggling too get them to pop in all the way.  Don't tighten bolts down until that thing is fully seated

[crttaz]

NEVER pull the case down, now you see why.

You failed to fully expand the lock ring.

Have fun getting the old one out and new on in.

With snap ring expanded and case slid on there should be a .008-.010" gap between the cases.

BTW, Sunday night, I reaffirmed I am indeed a tranny master. Three people couldn't get the ITR tranny back together, it had suffered a 4th gear explosion. All ratios and tooth counts checked out. Both ITR and GSR mainshaft 5th gears are 33 teeth, but different OD. The difference in diamter was pushing the shafts apart not allowing the case to drop over the bearings.

Swap the 5th gear, 1/2 way into third gear, case dropped right on.

I only know this as you can get 30 tooth SOHC gears mixed up......and did at one time

Basically every failure I've seen......by many different people......I made them all myself!!!!!!

Last night was perfect sailing either. Mainshaft outer bearing got stuck in the case. Used the old mainshaft to wiggle it out (no shop heater) and finally worked it out of the case without the bearing coming apart. Until we tried to remove it from the old shaft. Once all 12 balls were located it took me only two tries to pop it all back together. 

Just serving another SCCA/NASA customer, $60 for 3 hours work and "cold" pass for a big race at Mid Ohio this year.

[92CXyD]

Thanks guy I'll keep these suggestions in mind and remember patience tonight when I reassemble the transmission. ;D

[92CXyD]

Got the new bearing on and file down the burr in the area just above the snap ring.

The transmission is now back together.

Tomorrow I'll make two wiring harnesses into one.

Tired of having a cut and pasted engine wiring harness.

[92CXyD]

I went to look at my wiring harness situation and realize I would have to repin about 3 or 4 sensor connectors.

Or I could cut my h23 harness (perfect condition) or my old d15b8 harness. I decided neither.

I'll visit my local Hondaphile and see if he has a spare v-tec harness w/ map on it and not the 4dr with map on the firewall.

Do this today.

Since I was not working on wiring last night I decided to look at the transmission.

grabbed the input shaft to see how smooth the differential moves and the whole shaft is stuck solid no movement.

So I take it back to the kitchen counter and take the casing off and everything moves freely.

Put the casing back on w/o bolts and still moves freely.

Put two bolts in position #1 and #2 (from transmission service manual) and tighten down to within about 0.010" casing to clutch housing.(Snap ring seated in the grove of the bearing) and the shaft can not move freely.

So called around and heard on too possibilities:

1. differential not sitting all the way in.

2. the differential may need some clearance from the inside ribs of the casing.

Well I checked the differential to seat of the clutch housing clearance and no issues.

I put a straight edge on top of the differential.

Found a gap of about 0.020" from straight edge to clutch housing surface.

Looking at the casing I saw no indication of rubbing on the reinforcement ribs contacting differential.

I'll borrow some machinist die at lunch and see for sure.

If anybody else has any ideas I'd much appreciated it.

[crttaz]

Shimming......and pics.

[92CXyD]

Shimming......and pics.

pulled the shim and use machinist dye and could not find any contact.

I looked through the clutch housing where the LSD and bearing has seat and the bearing is seated where it needs to be.

I'll post picture tonight.

I'm taking it over to my local hondaphile aka twisted image on high altitude and h-t.

Maybe I'll sneek in some more pictures of his j-swap and rhd hb (love that car). ;D

[92CXyD]

I decided to take the whole thing apart.

I found a little running on the casing around the differential bearing flange/reinforcement.

I filed the surrounding area flat and forgot to bring the machinist dye back home with me.

I read some where that the OBX LSD is not suppose to make noise in the car.

But is it allowed to make noise if have the differential in you hand and shake it a little?
 

[92CXyD]

clutch housing before differential installed.

Machinist dye on strategic areas to look for interference issues.

A shot of the assembly before another attempt at closing it up.

A shot of the old snap ring and it did not look right so I replaced it.

The old snap ring took me about 10 min to pull it out and 30 sec. to put in the new one.
Was not too hard to do.

[crttaz]

Black marker works as a cheap dye.

But also knowing to grind down the bolt heads on the OBX before pressing on the bearing helps.

[chris]

You really should only use hondabond on the case.

[crttaz]

I don't, Permatex Ultra Gray

[92CXyD]

Black marker works as a cheap dye.

But also knowing to grind down the bolt heads on the OBX before pressing on the bearing helps.

Bolts were already ground on when magik123 had it in his transmission.

You really should only use hondabond on the case.

My local Hondaphile uses permatex gray.

We found that the shaft that has shift forks, closest to the differential, keeps jamming in the casing.

So we are looking at my spare casing if it would work better.

[92CXyD]

I finally got my trans. figured out something stupid lucky I had spare parts. ;D

Installed side mirror so I can have regular working mirrors again.

Installed one of my fuel pumps will do a custom hanger for two pumps later when I'm not pressed for time.

I wired in my MSD 2351 boost a pump.

Basic Instructions

Feeding the wires through the firewall.

Under dash shot.

feeding the wires to the center console

Through the center near the shifter.

Wires going by the E-brake. The final placement of the wires are to the side away from any moving parts of the E-brake.

Pulling the wires under the carpet all the way to fuel wiring connection. Not the easiest thing. Yes I vacuumed the crap trapped under the seat cushion. ;D

Cut the yellow w/ green stripe wire.

Solder the thick red wire to the wire closest to the pump. Solder orange wire to the remaining wire.
The red wire is 12ga. and is getting the source voltage from the MSD boost-a-pump.
The orange wire is 18ga. is getting the voltage from oem voltage source, main relay.

Shrink wrap the wires is best. But I ran out of shrink wrap so I used electric tape. Used the plastic conduit from under the seat all the way through the firewall. The plastic supplied from MSD works great I even got the the claps with the kit.

I cut about 10ft or more out the wiring was long enough for RVs.

That is all I have loaded on the camera. I'll post more pictures tonight. I working on the V-afc and AFC-R to a tuner harness.
So I can take these out if some thing happens.

I am using the Vafc as a tach, v-tec engagement, map signal voltage display only.

The AFC-R is for my future boost controller for my He351ve holset.


 

[magik123]

damn im late didnt see the updates in here, yeah the diff made some noise when shaken out of the trans.. never heard anything abnormal when driving with it.  Like I said i think i shimmed it with a b18 piston ring to get the correct endplay, Bone may not approve lol.  I def did not have to grind down housing/webs just could not get the correct endplay even with the smallest honda shim in my trans casing. Everything is cool now tho?

[92CXyD]

damn im late didnt see the updates in here, yeah the diff made some noise when shaken out of the trans.. never heard anything abnormal when driving with it.  Like I said i think i shimmed it with a b18 piston ring to get the correct endplay, Bone may not approve lol.  I def did not have to grind down housing/webs just could not get the correct endplay even with the smallest honda shim in my trans casing. Everything is cool now tho?

Yeah everything is cool I had a shift fork and sincro sticking causing the shaft for the mainshaft forks to sit higher than they should.

Replace the sincro and selector and now everything is golden. ;D

I used a thin b18 oil ring for a shim and it was perfect. :yes:

[92CXyD]

Here is my first attempt at using MS paint to illustrate my planned setup.


I run my the He351ve=>SC14=>intercooler=>70mm tb=>z6 IM=>y8 head

I have 2 1g DSM BOVs before tb recirculate to turbo inlet. After I put the engine and transmission this weekend I'll show how easy it was to put everything together. ;D

[malichite]

Hotness.  Just curious, what does that MSD box do for your fuel pump.  Sorry, to lazy to search

[HiProfile]

Over-volts it. Moar power moar fuels.

[92CXyD]

Over-volts it. Moar power moar fuels.

Digitally using my lappy to program the ramp-up fuel pump voltage linearly related the boost. ;D

[92CXyD]

One of my Idea Charts I usually have more info in my charts than this.
This chart was my first attempt at recreating what I just do on Engineerin Comp. Paper.
I get this info. from published info., Turbo calculators, and equations I use from Superchared!! (by Corky Bell) and my Fluid Dynamics I and II text book (for the mass flow equations)

[crttaz]

with a EX tranny that the MPG tuning to atleast 3200 rpms, maybe 3500 under light throttle, about 10" of vacuum

[92CXyD]

with a EX tranny that the MPG tuning to atleast 3200 rpms, maybe 3500 under light throttle, about 10" of vacuum

That was originally done with a CX transmission and 35mm Lsd back in '05 b/c that was all I had at the time. ;D

I'll post an updated one with EX gearing. ;D

But thanks for noticing. :yes:

BTW thanks for the posted info. on d-series transmissions on D-series.com and in this site.

It really helped. :yes: ;D ;D