Topic: 1991civicsi build thread (Read 93839 times)

1991civicsi · « **Reply #210 on:** August 11, 2010, 11:43:18 PM »

I went to Raceway Park and ran a 11.5 @ 121 which is a personal best for me. The car didnt overheat, but it sounds like a Subaru. My guess is the profuse smoke coming from the breather car means piston damage.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #211 on:** August 11, 2010, 11:45:38 PM »

I went to Raceway Park and ran a 11.5 @ 121 which is a personal best for me. The car didnt overheat, but it sounds like a Subaru. My guess is the profuse smoke coming from the breather can means piston damage.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #212 on:** August 12, 2010, 12:26:32 AM »

Damn Joe that sucks....

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #213 on:** August 12, 2010, 09:12:46 AM »

What is your piston to wall, and ring end gap? Was the engine held against a fuel cut limiter for any period of time?

1991civicsi · « **Reply #214 on:** August 13, 2010, 09:59:10 AM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on August 12, 2010, 09:12:46 AM

What is your piston to wall, and ring end gap? Was the engine held against a fuel cut limiter for any period of time?

.005 P2W clearance,

Top ring Bore (2.94) x .0050"
Second Ring Bore x .0055"
Oil Rail Min. .015"

Fuel cut yes

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #215 on:** August 13, 2010, 10:09:33 AM »

By the textbook your piston wall is a bit too loose and ring end gap is perfect. However, the textbook wasn't written with small bore motors in mind. I'd rather have closer to 0.004" piston-wall, and we set ring end gap a little looser (0.017" and 0.018-0.019") with great results. None of this could be a problem for you, though. People have run looser piston to wall, and textbook ring end gap has worked for plenty of people. It'll be obvious if the ring end gap was the culprit, an edge of a ring will be bent from where it dug into the bore, will have broken a land.

But I don't think that's it at all. Post pics, I'm pretty sure you melted a side out of a piston, down through the ring package, exiting out near the pin along one side of the skirt.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #216 on:** August 13, 2010, 11:26:13 AM »

Thanks JD I will post pics up when it is tore down yet again.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #217 on:** August 13, 2010, 09:03:36 PM »

1991civicsi · « **Reply #218 on:** August 19, 2010, 03:12:30 PM »

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #219 on:** August 20, 2010, 01:53:38 PM »

Quote from: 1991civicsi on August 19, 2010, 03:12:30 PM

Dudeman who builds our engines just saw the pics. Look at that spec of shit between the first and second ring. His commentary below, read through for the logic.

- suspects those are moly coated rings (what rings are those?)
- moly rings should never be used in anything that could possibly detonate
- moly rings start as a steel ring, and a groove is cut into the face + then filled with moly. Usually you can see where the moly ends right next to the ring gap (can't see the gaps on your pistons)
- moly is super hard, and brittle. When detonated bits of moly pop free and start scoring the bore.
- the edge of the valve relief looks pitted from detonation. (We compared to both sets of YCP Vitaras I have here, which have very smooth sharp edges along the reliefs. I was given instructions to cut that down and blend it with a die grinder.)

There's also really uneven ring seating taking place - look how the face of the rings along the skirt sidehas fully seated against the cylinder wall, yet towards the side the top ring has carbon along the top? And the second ring is all over the fucking place. I pointed it out and got "yeah, I noticed that." I asked what caused it and got "couldn't say, a lot of stuff" then he excused himself to get more work done. Maybe Passenger could be buttonholed for some insight.

Oh yah, we also compared the Rik rings that came with my Speedfactory sourced YCPs and the other rings (Hastings or NPR unknown) with the set I bought secondhand that I ASSume came from FJT (and therefore would be NPR since they are in loose plastic cellowraps and there's no Hastings box ? ). What I have all look to be crome coated steel rings even if they are different, on FJT's site they list the Hastings as chromoly rings which got a comment of "no such thing" from machinist dude.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #220 on:** August 20, 2010, 02:04:36 PM »

Joe you had shit luck with srp pistons I think its time for something else.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #221 on:** August 20, 2010, 02:08:02 PM »

SRP? Okay, I'm drunk I thought they were Vitaras. That shouldn't be a molt ring, but that IS debris.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #222 on:** August 21, 2010, 01:07:55 AM »

Thanks for your input Joey. I had shown the damaged piston to Dennis at B&L Machine Shop and when I told him my ring end gap, he told me to go bigger. .024" (This is what SRP recommends for Nitrous Race) No biggie. I had issues in the past with overheating, and this may be a relative factor

A new set of JE rings will be installed using larger ring end gaps. I going to send the head to get milled to ensure straightness.

Steve, as for the SRP pistons being problematic, I personally can say that I have been using the same pistons for quite some time. I have reused them after a few catastrophic failures and they are still holding up.

Pics below are the damaged piston that I began to clean.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #223 on:** August 21, 2010, 04:23:07 AM »

SRP's were crap a decade ago, they dropped ringlands quicker than stock pistons. In the last 4 years they are exactly what they should be, and I would rock them in my personal car. SRPs rock JE rings, which are a hardened ring.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #224 on:** October 17, 2011, 04:26:16 PM »

I want to keep the low-buck theme, so, I spray painted a fender to see how it would look. I will be spray painting the rest of the car when the weather warms back up.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #225 on:** October 17, 2011, 04:32:10 PM »

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #226 on:** November 12, 2011, 10:40:31 PM »

Joe did you do a 8 point or 10 point cage? S & W? I think there having a black friday sale I might take advantage of.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #227 on:** November 16, 2011, 02:27:45 AM »

8point S&W

1991civicsi · « **Reply #228 on:** January 09, 2012, 01:47:07 AM »

I picked up a new 4-puck Comp. Clutch disc and a Mazworx scatter shield that I plan on installing. New slicks are in order also, the 22" ones did what they were intended to do. 23" M&H and high boost next season to get into the tens or low 11's.
Once again, painting the body will not be a priority yet. But, I would like to finish it up.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #229 on:** January 09, 2012, 10:38:18 AM »

Oh yea!

1991civicsi · « **Reply #230 on:** February 21, 2012, 12:40:43 AM »

Doin work

1991civicsi · « **Reply #231 on:** February 26, 2012, 01:47:47 AM »

New rear seal installed

Flywheel resurfaced

New 4-puck clutch disc

Randomness

1991civicsi · « **Reply #232 on:** February 28, 2012, 06:15:09 PM »

ratcityrex · « **Reply #233 on:** February 29, 2012, 04:15:14 PM »

I want to see 10's!

1991civicsi · « **Reply #234 on:** February 29, 2012, 09:18:34 PM »

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #235 on:** February 29, 2012, 10:10:28 PM »

Damn Joe looking good. LMK if you need any help!

1991civicsi · « **Reply #236 on:** March 04, 2012, 02:38:16 PM »

Gummies!

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #237 on:** March 04, 2012, 10:41:18 PM »

Damn I ant wait to see this thing at the trac again.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #238 on:** March 05, 2012, 12:14:02 AM »

Quote from: crxvtec91 on March 04, 2012, 10:41:18 PM

Damn I ant wait to see this thing at the trac again.

1991civicsi · « **Reply #239 on:** March 25, 2012, 10:41:09 PM »

Finally going to finish the paint and body work.

Slicks mounted and balanced

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Author Topic: 1991civicsi build thread (Read 93839 times)