:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: turbohf on January 27, 2012, 01:32:28 AM
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all the other CRX threads have been lost to the pages of history.... so now for version....fuck? like 54? idk. but here it is...
for those who missed it. yes i bought my old CRX back, the turbohf if you will. i bought the GVR4, broke a valvespring in the CRX with its smoking, pissing me the fuck off B20... then gave up. decided if i wanted all this shit on a 2.0l it wouldnt be in the CRX. so sold almost all the shit now. and bought bigger shit for the Galant LOL. that thread is around here somewhere too. might be linked in my sig (if i remember)...
was lurking on the build threads on NWP (if you dont know, it doesnt matter) and found a CRX build thread from a local that has built some baller shit... told him i needed the old...
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all stock, old lady driven 135k mile....or whatever bullshit story you wanna hear... D16A6 swap. everything you see there. for, well :Jew:
dizzy is pending sale, i wont be using the intake/tb/injectors, ECU, or those knuckles he gave me. so if you want those PM me, i would like to recoup the rest of my money.
its from a 1990 CRX Si. so its got the bigger cam (LOL) and bigger flywheel (bonus), oh yeah, non-homo splined tranny. swap is suppose to be mint other than its grimy appearance.
shit needs cleaned.
THE PLAN
grassroots. i want to keep it simple, effective, and OEM as possible. i would really like to roadrace this fucker. i dont make power goals... but it will make around 230-350whp lol. 200-220whp
bottom:
D16A6
PR4 modded rods (SOMEONE HOOK ME UP ON THESE)
PM6 pistons
NPR rings
King/ACL bearings
12251-P01-004 MLS headgasket (from leaky headgasket TSB)
new timing belt, and covers (its missing one)
turbohf single drive crank pulley
top:
PM3 non-vTeK
stock ports for now (PBT probably future)
Z6 intake/fuel rail (ported for TB, cleaner look)
B16A2 throttle body (i need one, hit me up)
box:
L3 4.25fd
clean
inspect
reassemble
china qweef in the future
LSD Motorsports clutch. probably Tuner 6puck? or used ACT
boost:
HF manifold (yeah son!) w/shield
14b DSM turbo (current)
16g EVOIII turbo (future)
adapter (still need one, hit me up)
DSM 450 (92oct) or EVO 560 (E85)... havent decided.
1g DSM bov
small china cooler (21x7x2.5)
turbohf flux core pipes all around
if you forgot the car...
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think thats it for now.
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If your looking for a hf adapter plate hit up bmc race for one.
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they still around? website doesnt have shit.
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they still around? website doesnt have shit.
theyre still around. Thats who i got my adapter plate from but it took them a whole month from ordering it, to shipped to my front door.
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you just email them then? how much was it? cuz there are some on ebay for like 70bucks shipped... more than i want to spend.
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You could also hit up weir, I think he made a few back in the day too.
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good call. just PMed him, also need a couple DSM bov flanges, maybe a downpipe flange. not sure if im going to try and make a complete downpipe, or use the stock O2 housing...
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bmc did some intake flanges for a buddy of mine recently. If he has the drawing which he does Im sure he would run one for you.
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im sad... machine shop guy told me no. said i cant be pressing a pin into a pressed in bushing lol. not in as many words, i filled in the blanks quickly. but hadnt thought about it till he said no.
so. shit.
buy forged shit? which i dont want to do. cuz i dont want to buy anything. dont want rattly forged shit. i want OEM. and im not putting homo vitara pistons in my motor, cuz i like compression.
so......i think im just going to do a compression check, and rock this motor (maybe over torque the headbolts a little). throw the 13g on it, and rape it. sure it will take a beating at ~220whp for a while?
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I hate you so much.
;DDD
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If you werent such a jew I know how to work the oem cast piston with a modded ls rod. Old man i worked for back in the day did it
get beau to weld up the chambers on a spare a6 head. he is the one who welded mine up
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If you werent such a jew I know how to work the oem cast piston with a modded ls rod. Old man i worked for back in the day did it
get beau to weld up the chambers on a spare a6 head. he is the one who welded mine up
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-D16-BUSHED-RODS-SHOTPEENED-POLISHED-w-ARP-/320836604124?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ab35a10dc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-D16-BUSHED-RODS-SHOTPEENED-POLISHED-w-ARP-/320836604124?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ab35a10dc)
found those today. machine shop was trying to quote me like 400bucks. but that was off his head.
so i was thinking today that my ZC turbo CRX was fun. slow, ran like a 14.1 and made 171whp. but was solid. CRX with the LSVTEC always had bugs, was a handful at 300+whp. my CX with the NA B20 was fun also at 220whp, and the CRX weighs less, so maybe that will be good enough? looking to track it anyway. the GVR4 will be making stupid power. think i want the CRX just to be fun, and handle awesome....
Dave text me back, said 200whp would be safe on stock shit... maybe 225....... would be nice to have 250ish, and be reliable as stock. :-\
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100-150 is what I would charge to do a set. Problem is getting the boss to let me use his stuff since he is uber busy these days
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100-150 is what I would charge to do a set. Problem is getting the boss to let me use his stuff since he is uber busy these days
and you could hang a OEM PM6 piston on them? if so, im down. ill send a new set of pistons to ya, and maybe some rods, id have to look around. maybe trade for the cams?
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I would need to call the old honda god to see how he did it but it was done. I need money not parts I owe mucho taxes this year
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lmk, im interested. i need a cunt hair more power. and woud like it with a little more insurance.
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ok. WEIR said no go on the adapter plate. yes to the rest of the flanges of course. but the adapter is big deal right now.
emailed BMC on the adapter. waiting on response.
nothing is working out as far as the bottom end is concerned. im really just leaning towards pushing hard on the stock bottom end. LEED said 200-225... that might just be fun in the CRX. not fast, maybe quick, but should do some burnouts, and get me around.
cant find my compression tester. its gotta be around here somewhere tho. gonna hook a jump box to the motor on the pallet and to a compression test LOL. this is RHMT!
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so there was a deal of a clutch on ebay... but i didnt want to buy it cuz it had an unsprung 4puck... didnt even meet the reserve...
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:noel:
lol. told him i wanted that shit still, minus the puk. new this clutch is 350bucks... he wanted like half that on ebay... and of course i got it for less... :Jew:
its an ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate. with bearings, and tool... cant forget the stickers... i will be buying a new 96-00 Civic friction disc from Honda. making this an HDSS... light clutch, but hold my power if i get up to a 16g turbo...
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engine on a pallet compression test did its job....
... FUCK. the numbers: 60-210-210-90...ish.. went back and forth. didnt even sound good cranking on the dead holes. plugs looked the BEST on those holes. idk. dont care anymore. pull the head...
...so i start with pulling the intake. of the nuts that where there, most where exhaust nuts... sweet. think it was missing 2-3 altogether. shit ass felpro gasket...matched the exhaust gasket...
...#1 (center intake side) headbolt? fucker was barely passed finger tight... dont worry it had a couple more friends along the way.
dropped the head in the parts washer for ~30mins (i think) and walked away, and almost left work without it LOL. pressure washed it some also. still got some carbon. havent taken a close look at it or torn it down.
took the clutch off and threw it away... verified that a 96-00/P2E clutch disc fits the tranny/flywheel. so we are good there. also spun that heavy A6 pulley off, got a HF one being turned down.
engine/tranny/head are all at home.... might strip them down tomorrow... might not. i have a B18C im in the middle of building for a friend also. short on room lol.
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shitty small update... but cuz i remembered (seen the pics on my phone)...
i picked up a set of PR4 rods, for free, cuz i gave them to him and he never used them. still need to find someone to mod them the way i want. DASPOOP?!? someone else too, cant remember his name atm? from cali...shit. anyway. ill find someone. im in no hurry, got some shit i need to buy for the GVR4 anyway first.
and one of the guys at work has a real lathe, so i figured he might do better than we did on the brake lathe last time with the crank pulley. lol told him what i wanted, and didnt expect much. take your time, when your bored, etc... must have been bored, cuz to both our suprize it turned out nice.
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hard to see cuz he painted it gloss black, i might paint it flat black....i probably will actually.
i think that this pulley was off an HF motor. i dont remember. i have litterly been using it as a door stop for years. it was light, no stupid rubber piece in the middle, and looked like it could loose a couple LBS. oh and it was free. :Jew:
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Don't u want some rubber in there to dampen vibrations?
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Don't u want some rubber in there to dampen vibrations?
i dont believe in that shit. honda builds solid motors, not less than half ass thrown together, nothing close to balanced, domestic shit.
thats an OEM pulley cut down, and it didnt have the rubber in it. shit lots of honda ones dont have that.
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Back in the day people were having problems with oil pumps shitting the bed with ctr pullys because they didn't have anything to dampen the harmonics. But then again I don't think you'll be spinning this thing to 10k either. :P
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A lot of D's came stock with all steel pullies. I have one I have considered cutting down like that for my GRM car.
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I talked with my machinest. He said its possible to press in a sleeve ream it to size then heat and slide the pin/piston through it without it moving but he would need to do 5 sets to make it worthwhile so start shipping me rods and we can get some sets made up. I dont currently own a running honda so these rods while of use to me are not of use at this exact moment
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Dustin Call Dale Green @ DG Machine in Auburn and see what he can do for you.
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Back in the day people were having problems with oil pumps shitting the bed with ctr pullys because they didn't have anything to dampen the harmonics. But then again I don't think you'll be spinning this thing to 10k either. :P
its a D16A6, its invincible :-*
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Dustin Call Dale Green @ DG Machine in Auburn and see what he can do for you.
I talked to Rob at Action Machine. think his quote was getting up to 400bucks. but he wanted to ARP bolts and shitbin it. then told me I couldn't do pressed/OEM pistons...
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todays plan:
lol. anyway, money really isnt an issue. its just the time. time to get the parts. time to build. time to make the money lol. i wanna drive my CRX. so im just gonna throw the A6 in it with a quick rebuild. with the intent of seeing threw a 300whp E85 motor...eventually (next winter build?). i wanna get the exterior fresh (new 90-91 bumpers, and OEM steal hood with fresh paint on all those parts), interior fresh (collect missing pieces, ITR seats, etc). and maybe suspension setup (HardRace bushings, extended hats, swaybars). then ill work on the built motor.
so the turbo setup right now is loosely looking like im gonna run a 14b. gonna set it up to run an evo16g in the future. the evo16g uses a bigger better flowing O2 housing... but i will be doing something slightly different and custom, but doing it with the 16g parts in mind.... ill be posting more as i do it. it should be a nice fab project. 2.5 downpipe to the ricer Invidia exhaust. same 2.0-2.5" chargepipes and small intercooler i have been using on the CRX/ITR. with a DSM BOV instead of the TiAL.
anyway. stay tuned... :Jew:
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I got the hf t25 plate sitting on the side whenever your ready.
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I got the hf t25 plate sitting on the side whenever your ready.
you find the intake manifold also? if that doesnt look like shit, im gonna need that too.
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gotta dig through my storage crates at the shop... i think i put the manifolds inside one of them...
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no promises or anything, but progress will be made in the coming weeks... or maybe just another pile of parts... either way, ill try to take and post pics of it all... :Jew:
so the other day i started cleaning that huge fuckin mess i call a garage. made nice progress. but still not really clean. still got some more to go. i have several work bench areas (none really sturdy tho) that are all just covered in random shit. like one is just full of misc hardware.
anyway today, i finished? nope. i tore more shit apart LOL.
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fuckin EWWW.
but it all looked OEM. MAINS looked ok'ish. not bad for a shitload of miles. RODS where nice and shiny with slight debris. mains maybe usable, rods no. not that im going to, im just buying a whole set of KING/ACL's.
RINGS. now if you remember (or look up a couple posts) this piece of shit didnt have compression worth a shit on 1&4. nothing really looks amiss with anything. #1 rings appeared to be a little sticky, but not stuck. if anything it was more the oil rings than the compression rings.
pistons slid threw the bores NICE AND EASY lol. bores are pretty smooth, very little cross hatch.
im going to bring all this shit into work for a nice super cleaning. see if i can barrow a bore gauge from one of the guys to see how far this thing is out. but right now the plan is to buy a dingleball hone off ebay (~65bucks) and scratch her up a little. along with of course new rings/bearings/gaskets.
also. im officially retiring the Harbor Freight torque wrench. sad day i know :'( yes, i have put many motors together with that lol. bought a new Husky wrench. hope it gives me a little more piece of mind.
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im officially retiring the Harbor Freight torque wrench.
I retired mine back in January. Got a new craftsman one for Xmas because the hf clicker inside broke or something. But I did put lots of shit together with mine too.
Dude, go to walmart, and get some plastic totes and put all your wiring in one, all your hardware in another, and ect ect. Or be cheap like me and get some good sturdy boxes and organize all your shit that way. My garage may not be "clean" but its organized. Even when tools r all over the place. I spend about 15min a week "trying" ::) to keeping shit in order. And Ive learned to throw shit away. Even if there is a chance I might need that little part in 4 years, I would rather take the trip to the junk yard or ebay and spend $5 for it than have it sitting on/under/near the bench.
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im officially retiring the Harbor Freight torque wrench.
I retired mine back in January. Got a new craftsman one for Xmas because the hf clicker inside broke or something. But I did put lots of shit together with mine too.
Dude, go to walmart, and get some plastic totes and put all your wiring in one, all your hardware in another, and ect ect. Or be cheap like me and get some good sturdy boxes and organize all your shit that way. My garage may not be "clean" but its organized. Even when tools r all over the place. I spend about 15min a week "trying" ::) to keeping shit in order. And Ive learned to throw shit away. Even if there is a chance I might need that little part in 4 years, I would rather take the trip to the junk yard or ebay and spend $5 for it than have it sitting on/under/near the bench.
I need to do more of this. :noel:
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i have been working the pile of extra parts i might need, or never, down. i threw a bunch more away this time. was thnking about some totes. maybe ill hit walmart on the way home.
i cut every plug off of every wire harness i had and out them in a box. still have the wire....need to throw it away...lol
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i have been working the pile of extra parts i might need, or never, down. i threw a bunch more away this time. was thnking about some totes. maybe ill hit walmart on the way home.
i cut every plug off of every wire harness i had and out them in a box. still have the wire....need to throw it away...lol
Any extra full obd1 harness laying around?
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nope. just cut up shit.
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so i said something about going to walmart on the way home. guy at work was all EWW, WHY?! said i needed some totes, he damn near yelled dont/stop/etc lol. i guess one of his buddies that owns a shop bought a bunch of crap while on the road, needed something to move them in...$600 later after cleaning out the local target, they where back on the road LOL. so i should be able to score at least a couple for jew/free :Jew: we will see. plus, procrastination...duh.
speaking of the CRX...back to the REAL story...
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so, you all have known or heard, or done some RHMT Motor mounts right?!?!?!... well, for the kids:
go to your autoparts store...
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get that shit. make sure its that part number. i got one in a cardboard tube before. shit blew out and made a fuckin mess. lost a $2 caulking gun lol. speaking of, this shit is THICK! use a good caulking gun, step up to the $5 one. i have used mine a couple times now. solid unit.
also, if its cold as ballz outside like it is here (ok, only like 40*) KEEP IT WARM in the house before starting. when its cold seems to not flow as well.
OH YEAH. DONT GET THIS SHIT ON YOU. its a bitch to get off. seriously. get some gloves.
so i had 3 perfectly good motor mounts (front one is always fubar on a CRX)... so lets destroy some shit!
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i took my drill, railled some big holes in the rubber. the burnt some out.... got bored after playing with the fire for a while. besides i needed some structure to it to located the bushing. more urethane the better right? i did end up dropping a decent size metal plug into the mix like Haffa. need to make sure i had enough goo for all the mounts.
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TOLD YA! nice crack most the way threw the mount. just flopping around in there. so i couldnt really cut too much. dremel was acting up (ok, HF china crap one) so i just threw a nut and washer in there to locate the bushing, and act as a limiter of sorts. stiffen up more than the urethane ;)
i only took special care with the front and rear mounts as they are the ones controlling the engine movement. the other 2 are there more to hold the engine/tranny in the car.
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TAPE EM UP! probably wanna use better tape. that stuff doesnt stick well, and ended up blowing out a little.
also you notice that i didnt tape it flat. gives more room for the goo to surround the bushing.
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when your done. you probably got some goo all over your gloves. use your fingers, smooth that shit out on the mounts. carefully take off gloves and toss them.
btw. i killed the whole can.
DONE? now let that sit for 2 days...or 2 months. depending on your build timeline.
now that im done. i forgot something. lol. i did a load of research on this before i did it (i have done this like 5times im sure). i was going to use something different this time. but changed my mind.
you know and love some hasport/innovative/place racing/whatever mounts right? they all are sold in "durometers" (or whatever) meaning how solid they are.
62a = "street" (rattled the shit out of the CRX)
80a = "race"
90a = "retard/hardcore"
now i found a liquid urethane 2part mixture for all 3 of those. (just do a search for liquid urethane motor mounts) you can get it on ebay for cheap (sold as motor mount filler) or from mccmaster whatever.
so whats the 3M windo-weld? the spec sheet says 55-60a... its cheaper, little on the soft side, and the shit was at the autoparts store next to my house.
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oh. before i left work i put a bunch of shit in the washing machine...
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so, THATS what its suppose to look like? block is in the trunk of my car. wanna measure it, see how bad it is. crank is around somewhere too. already did the head, its buried in some shit. threw the pistons in the CRX. not even sure im using them. we will see i guess...
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Great mount info., that shit never gets old. :noel:
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GOT MY INTERIOR PIECES! ;DDD
i was missing the cargo box, and the vertical piece of the cargo cover. i got the box, all the cover, and hatch carpet... i already had the tire board... shit maybe ill find a DA6 spare tire and a jack kit to complete this lol... ehh probably not.
started off by cleaning the box up, and trying to bend back the top piece. most of the CRX cargo box things i have seen have had a nice little bow to them. seen a couple that have been just fubar.
so i tried a couple things, but really i think would have worked good was a steamer, i dont have one. so i took a wet sponge and dampened up the back side of the cardboard shit they made the cover out of, then made a stand and set heavy shit on it for the night (just like smashing something in a heavy book to flatten it)
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yeah, so my IRC/Spearco 2-216 intercooler seems to be the perfect size, and is heavy. threw a pack of Coke for good measure.
i did about the same for the vertical piece, but it wasnt as bent.
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:noel: i already had the upper part of the cargo cover. mine was nicer (almost in one piece lol), so i will probably be selling the other one. i also got the hatch carpet. i left that off cuz im gonna pressure wash it at work. he also hooked me up with a corner light and some other little trinkets.
the day before i went to the junkyard. i scored a new pedal to swap out the one i modified for the hydro setup... wasnt the same, but of course i got it to fit just fine. and i also got the tranny bracket that i was missing from my swap.
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took the hydro swap parts out... FOR SALE! if anyone would like this fine piece in there EF...
:Jew:
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How much are ya asking? :noel:
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ok. parts started arriving...
corner light i actually picked up with the cargo cover shit...
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after cleaning/buffing it i notices all those little odd cracks on the inside, and the crack on the inside on the reflector??!?! wtf? should i buy a new one all together? or rock it? idk...
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new one. this one is on my desk at work. i ordered it for my car. ill probably order another one? that one just looks so sexy. plus if i order one, wanna do it before they are discontinued lol.
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dont think this needs a caption on RHMT? :Jew:
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of the millions of camber kits on ebay/world why this one? well i hate aftermarket shit (in general). i had an SPC rear kit that was seized. slider kits just scare me, cuz well they are chinese, and move. i just want to set my shit and leave it.
my car has already been aligned. its square, just cambered more than i want. so i got this. i have had one before that i got at the junkyard. its a knockoff of a Progress Suspension part (like 200bucks). its a solid kit that just offsets the bushing with 2 settings: "low" and "gangsta low". when i put it on my CX that was pretty slammed it damn near zeroed my camber, didnt like that, so i put it on the low setting. got some useable camber. CRX has like -3.5*... so we will see where it ends up. put it on the low side for now. paperwork claims correction of up to 1.75*
rear is just new bolts with a stack of washers. im sure you have seen this before. does the same thing, pushes the control arm back out.
all the pics for now it looks like. more shit coming later....
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PARTS!
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simple. remember i moved my battery to the bumper/fender. well im having issues with the cable i think. so that will get replaced to (shit ass CSK crap). also going to add this. mount it to the frame rail. then i have a jump point, and easy access to adding more power for shit (fuel pump, amp, alarm, etc).
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120322_181523.jpg&hash=eb3822904351b9e9acc24a2c9503f4e41f9f61b7)
yep.
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FULL?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120322_182427.jpg&hash=f125ffe8be3ef3402d60a15bb279d7205f336492)
gaskets/seals that i like, and am gonna use. im gonna rock this composite HG. nice multi layer exhaust gasket. random seals/orings for rebuild...
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shit in the box that i wont use (cuz it sucks), or i have no idea wtf it is? and some shit thats not even for my motor.
FULL SET? no. notably absent are the injector orings. odd cuz i have been buying from the same vender, with the same parts several times now (B18C5, EK/minime thing, B18C, A6) and those had all 3 injector seals/orings.... so really i have an extra set or two if i need them. lol.
3-4th set of valve steam seals that all 16 look the fuckin same. should be white springs (x8) and a grey/black spring (x8)... these all have white? so....? probably going to buy honda ones.
still, not a bad deal for the price.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120322_182524.jpg&hash=3cab0549332817bf9472805d87803e5ed742bb09)
china 12" slim fans.... why 2? well they where cheap ($40shipped). try to get both on the CRX, if that fails (probably) the other will go on the GVR4 (its wearing the CRX fan, reason for new one)...if both fit the CRX, well ill have to buy another for the GVR4 before it gets hot as shit outside/hook the AC back up.
i have several items MIA with tracking showing a delivery date of today. one is for a buddies motor im suppose to be building, machine shop needs that shit.
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PARTS!
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this might be the first shift knob i have bought in 10years...
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wait.... those arent mine LOL... some chromoly retainers for a B18C im rebuilding for a buddy.
so i go to cut this next package open, and as i slice...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120323_182558.jpg&hash=219a97562a5082e1009cc3c188b2d1d77d60dadf)
WARNING: Jew toy inclosed :Jew:
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HF to DSM... i also have a HF manifold w/shield around here somewhere...
oh and before i even left work i snagged up some shit... only about half of it lol.
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upper/lower/bypass hoses. throwout bearing return spring (i always replace these on cable trannies). x4 corner light retainers (i have a 88 that uses screws, this fixes that). 2 new headbolts (im a jew), my new corner light. SK2 knob i already mentioned. and ES shifter bushings (black).
i also started taking the tranny apart for inspection the other night. but got hung up, and gave up too quickly. then ate, and forgot lol.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120322_193537.jpg&hash=812063a957c324ffa68ea6e4a4e0cb58002fc009)
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red loctite....asshole.
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looks ok clean. obviously been apart before tho. no fucked up looking teeth/sycros... diff bearing seemed a little tight? but it was sitting for a little bit, probably got some moisture in it. seems to spin fine now?
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That is not red loctite, that is factory sealant, you popped open a virgin.
I can also tell by the 20+ year old Hondabond it has never been apart.
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really? i thought they used a white/hondabond shit? anyway. cool. tranny seems mint. big thing is that the diff pin looks legit lol. input shaft had like no play.
probably gonna run the cases threw the parts washer, and put it back together. ill do a MF or china lsd in the future.
its getting 2 new axle seals forsure. i popped them out and threw them away already. looked questionable.
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get a seal kit and ISB, inspect forks.
When you are ready for a MF LSD + bearings, I get a decent discount.
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PARTS!
pretty sure this woke my ass up way to early this morning... (went back to bed)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120324_162950.jpg&hash=d828b1e1f61b7aba16df0f40b4eb05ab0711a9ce)
MHI/DSM TD05H 14b turbo.
did some test fitting with the HF mani/plate action... i dont think i like how it fits. but more on that later when i start fabbing turbo install shit i guess...
WORK!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120324_170612.jpg&hash=4ebca3b1c47bf61fc7ed0ce81034e160beabd63a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120324_172617.jpg&hash=4073cada03084a9199be4524d8b7687c7f42658b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120324_191745.jpg&hash=55e29bac006fd1c050222e79b919202781728104)
yes, i realized as i was grabbing the stock pan with no oil drain on it...FUCK. shouldnt have hondabonded the gasket lol. well hopefully this way the gasket stays in place when i do modify the pan...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120324_195906.jpg&hash=c392b4d6674e85b088767f1c63a60f592a095c82)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120324_195912.jpg&hash=a4734d98c0964e2adc3ed078c5dda1f3b9433428)
btw: thats stock PM6 pistons/rods.
:Jew:
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PARTS!
i know i said something about this FOREVER ago. shit i think in my first post...
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:noel:
i picked these up off a good buddy of mine. he hasnt has a honda in years. and one he had was minty/stock, and the other was an ITR lol. and there was like a 2year gap i think between.... he has had these seats for like 4-5 years? im pretty sure he swapped the drivers side out of his ITR cuz it "wasnt broken in" like the one in my 97R that felt perfect lol. so the drivers side i have is MINT!! it was a nice 50k mile ITR.
anyway, heard from another buddy that he was trying to sell them to him. fucker. lol. so i went over tonight and cashed him out. got fronts and rears. selling the rears.
i wont say what i paid. i know what he paid forever ago for them to some kid that needed to pay a ticket/rent or whatever, and got them cheaper for homie hookup :Jew:
soo. quick look at them, then the 88 CRX DX seats i have... this is gonna be a bitch! from what i hear, the pan swap is easy? but i can tell you now, this isnt gonna work. the headrest have different spacing. there is no lumbar on the CRX seats, and it may be trivial? but the covers/handles arent gonna swap... idk. this might be a welding project too.
oh, and im not just gonna swap the seats in. or make rails or mounts. i have tried some DC2 cloths before. say WAY too high, fit like compete shit. del Sol's fit pretty shitty too. good install height tho.
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I say pull the pistons and open the ring gap, then have the blackest of black nog's LEED crank the boost!
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I say pull the pistons and open the ring gap, then have the blackest of black nog's LEED crank the boost!
its not gonna make any power on stock rods anyway. besides im sure its got tons of piston to wall. rings probably have a decent gap already.
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WORK!
last night i lapped all the valves in (standard drill/vacuum hose)...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120329_194829.jpg&hash=3197d936b8575a7c62b4db24be4354c78e74d9ce)
finished assembly tonight. i know i missed cleaning a valve. fuckin carbon just wouldnt come off, gave up.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120329_194850.jpg&hash=0be062b6c3a0d7a487596cdb5b45e9f85fdcc53d)
i got the cam and rockers in...forgot to take a pic i guess...
PARTS!
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ITR shift boot... not liking the way it fits so much, might need some trimming... but old one was NASTY! plus this matches the ITR seats, shift knob (red letters), and Spoon steering wheel...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120329_201205.jpg&hash=55241d3c53c188610a972c8c6667746247567307)
JDM ITR chrome dual bend shifter. matches the boot ;) little modifying needed for CRX linkage...aka bend the shit out of it till it fits.
thats it for now. work sucked. im gonna rest a little. might work on the seats....
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oh yeah.... THIS MOTOR IS JUNK!... 3 of the headbolts wont torque down. after some debate (yes i said that) i wont be running this motor. gonna part it down....
NOT ALL IS LOST...well on that POS it is. im sure you can just helicoil/timecert it. but im not putting that work into this... im gonna steal parts off it i need...
MAD JEW DEALZ WARNING...
called homies far and wide to keep eyes out. i get a call with several motors from a complete running swap to a Y8 longblock with a rod knock. after some back and forth between homie and homie, he calls me and says its yours for $40, no markup, you want it, its yours. :Jew:
D16Y8 longblock. no manifolds. has VTEC solenoid, and alternator. rod knocker on #1. everything looks crusty and old like the one above. its all torn down, dropped the hone down it. all in my trunk to bring to work and clean the shit out of it... pics later of clean parts lol...
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I really wouldn't recommend those fans, esp if it's not a new radiator and really not if you also don't use a shroud. They really suck that much ass. $90 for a single SPAL fan is a better deal when you figure out why you're temp won't stay down.
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DO WORK!
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PARTS!
homie said he had a 1g dsm bov for me... he failed, had this...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120411_185853.jpg&hash=27d93d7e0fd6fc527f5417ffe8af4dbeea2215e0)
said i could have it for free since he didnt pay for it... makes since cuz the guy he got it from never paid for it, and he got it from ME... and of course i didnt pay for it the first time either :Jew: lol. was donated for the turbo ITR, bought bought a TiAL for jew dealz.
anyway, FREE BOV. chinaRS. was on a friends DSM, worked GREAT at 32psi... leaked like a mofo at 33 = junk... DSM people are odd, but give away BOVs :)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120411_185914.jpg&hash=0352aa250cb9b0da114c6a45815cb4c3c88d6ea8)
i use to not like these. thought they where ricer junk. well had one on the ITR and made seeing out big piece of glass easy. (and with a gangsta lean, out the quarter window too)
WORK!
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120415_131328.jpg&hash=0f13b6b03a4a8a67b1ab2006f8dffbcd2dfc3380)
fuck you! i stripped the A6 down, cuz i needed the crank and bearings out of it for the new Y8 build. dont think there is much else i can use off it. rings are different size. oh well.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120415_131417.jpg&hash=4037d4c1878c2204061ad328f3555385ec4c54a3)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120415_153116.jpg&hash=99fdcd79f3f6b3cfd4754a81c2108146262c82f6)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120415_155923.jpg&hash=7a3e748e80ba8ea2b01d8210196e43d8cf327eaa)
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Y8 head. all fresh and clean. lapped in valves, replaced seals, put back together. you can see my makeshift spring tool. worked ok.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120415_131351.jpg&hash=a9d1cfb6573a99ab75fe9af252b461e3cf2e7888)
was fuckin around checking shit over. looks like ring gap will be ok... think piston to wall is a little high. but ehh. whatever.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120415_170211.jpg&hash=a19c67199a6ac75f88e0c5a8b37cfced2a2e7922)
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little turbo mock/test fit action. why the fuck couldnt MHI just use bolts for the housings? the clamp was cool, but the big ass C clip was a whore. then both where pinned to put back together the right way...great! if your putting it back together the right way, and of course im not.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120415_151656.jpg&hash=fbd630b97f38cbb94bed5eb2c7af87e3681f313f)
shit ass picture im sure (sun/phone) but thats an 01 US ITR seat on a CRX pan, meaning it bolts in with no welding or super ghetto shit. well, aside from the perma gangsta lean lol. ill fix that for the drivers side. install height seems same as CRX seats, weight is about the same (all teh heavy teggy shit isnt put back on).
ODD:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120409_150539.jpg&hash=444aab24a45c34d92b114cebe5c4373ffff4ae47)
found this on phone when uploading... wtf?
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Damn looking good, to bad I think you need to build a motor like a :Jew: built super cheap!
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Damn looking good, to bad I think you need to build a motor like a :Jew: built super cheap!
its still Jew. all other attempts have failed. i really wanted to run PR4 rods. oh well.
but so far i dont have much into this motor or turbo setup.
Y8 longlock = 40bucks
rods/pistons = ~$400 (i know, no info posted yet)
gaskets and seals so far are free/leftovers, need a HG for 25bucks, timing belt for ~36
still need an intake/tb
14b = 125 i think
manifold = 20
plate = 50?
bov = free
injectors are leftovers/trade/free
chinacooler from ITR
gonna make pipes from CMB order
anyway, i feel its pretty jew. but i would like this to stay together for a little while also.
and if you see things like ITR seats and think this isnt jew, your mistaken... i am 150bucks into those seats lol.
most aspects of this car i dont care, ill spend money, i want my car the way i want it even if it costs...luckly i have gotten many things i wanted for deals... ITR seats, Sprint Hart's (wheels), Spoon steering wheel, etc.... pretty sure i have more money into my Galant.
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Not bad, so what rods and pistons you went with?
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Not bad, so what rods and pistons you went with?
they are je/srp's with eagle rods. look like they where installed and turned over by hand at most. and they are actually for a y8, so the right compression height and all. 9:1cr
ill take some pics later. i also want to do some light de-burring before install.
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PARTS!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120417_200900.jpg&hash=2d9a874d93125426085a40ecf059b62bd77218e6)
scored this after work (D16Z6 intake manifold/etc). fucker took forever to meet up. i guess 15mins means an hour? looks clean right? he said it was....it wasnt. that was after pressure washing teh shit out of it. no big deal. but whatever. looks complete as shit. havent dug into it. dont mind the other boxes of shit, thats for my buddies build.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120417_210916.jpg&hash=bf36a6f692a1e73e644040ce320f3c21265d5ed7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120417_210922.jpg&hash=a2faef2ee72a51f5d0ccf64b1fc81edcde0b99e7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120417_210929.jpg&hash=4000448eb73376795927fe1cd1a3774168799112)
pistons/rods i keep mentioning. SRP 9:1 D16Y8 pistons. dont care to look for the part number. i took down all the edges on the crowns. made sure there where no nicks in the skirts, etc. look all sexy now.
thought i took pics of the block and shit... guess not. i notched the block. crank spins over, no hitting that i can notice, but i hit TDC/BTC FUCK!!!!!!!! rod bolts hit the girdle. cock. good thing i didnt return the grinder i borrowed.
also, wtf do i torque these rod bolts to?!?!?!
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For head studs direct from ARP
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/111485-how-really-torque-arp-head-studs-straight-arp.html (http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/111485-how-really-torque-arp-head-studs-straight-arp.html)
He says for head studs:
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.
For rod bolts
http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=25 (http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=25)
43ft-lbs, do this three times on new bolts. (research on D-series.org)
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thanks.
i dont believe in head studs.
torque them 3 times?!?! im not sure if these have been torqued before?
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thanks.
i dont believe in head studs.
torque them 3 times?!?! im not sure if these have been torqued before?
When in doubt 3x on the rod bolts.
On D-series there was long discussion on y8 head bolts and their reuse w/ boost
If you are not using brand new y8 bolts then I would just go to ARP studs.
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Hand tight also means allen wrench hand tight, not finger tight. I fucked up one time and stretched a stud at the threads at 60ft-lbs because it wasnt in enough. It ended up gnarling the block upon extraction.
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Hand tight also means allen wrench hand tight, not finger tight. I fucked up one time and stretched a stud at the threads at 60ft-lbs because it wasnt in enough. It ended up gnarling the block upon extraction.
I have never seen that, and I have installed thousands of studs. I normally bottom mine and then loosen them a 1/8th a turn. I have seen blocks cracked from studs being over tightened into the hole though.
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Yeah me neither.. Shit was weak. I snug them with an allen wrench now but just snug. I went to Atlanta from VA with a bad HG and back to VA, swapped HGs and when putting the head on it stretched so they were 2nd use.
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Gay.
I have broken a couple studs before final torque. You do get the odd stud that had a bad heat treat or something.
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doesnt matter, im not buying headstuds until i have first hand proof that headbolts are an issue...
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PARTS!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120418_194433.jpg&hash=70504b2d3e74dd307f4c8a2f0a599c3b2ba29ae2)
headgasket (Y8), front/rear mains, timing belt, vTeK filter...
WORK!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120418_190240.jpg&hash=104a35d211ea48f6bad2f9eae4472740bc72fc58)
block notching from the other night.
then some FML action...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120418_190250.jpg&hash=59cd792aae649092d0147f4fabba247baafa0358)
that was actually try 2 of 3... rod bolts clear nicely now LOL.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120418_190236.jpg&hash=88bb968d103b2dd4007270a487a0dc6038135433)
oh yeah, fuck installing the mains then trying to get the rods bolted up. feel better about B18C/B18/B16 with just the outside caps just in case you need to flip it, but ehh.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120418_211624.jpg&hash=2f451cc718eece3dcce27ffddf3fe157defda823)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120418_211629.jpg&hash=54bc73fa08a90eca355656ce359fd17a06e76783)
anyway... there are the little noise makers in place...
tired, hungry, gave up about there....
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Damn looking good, I think you need a bigger turbo!
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Damn looking good, I think you need a bigger turbo!
actually, not sure i do. i kinda want to run this on e85 and max the turbo and injectors out.
i dont need or want big power. want fast spool, torque, broad powerband.
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PARTS!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120419_193111.jpg&hash=8507680ab502c0636cf8d176e7e2dbcfcb76b9fd)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120419_193125.jpg&hash=30e52b740125441cc076730abe53b459361ad6d5)
ok, i have had these in the CRX before. EVO 560cc injectors. suppose to have sold them, but he is gonna get the 450s out the Galant instead.
WORK!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120419_200556.jpg&hash=dfefbb97c1dd38334da14da4250bf74d02402ec6)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120419_202706.jpg&hash=3dab0ccd8b9751824ebb566810e1277597614251)
new honda headgasket on, head on, over torqued the headbolts, water pump, injectors, intake, and some other misc accessories.
VC is just on temp, working on painting it, and the one off the Y7 knocker out the old 4dr EK i sold. think im going with a wrinkle black or OEM look, and then something annoying? not sure. need to find a color i like.
can i paint a VC with automotive paint? like that color match shit? clear it? bake it? wtf do i do to make it last?
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WORK!
CRX/ITR seat pan swap! (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,17488.0.html) (link to RHMT Hybrid post)
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oh yeah.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FITR%2520seats%2FIMG_20120422_131019.jpg&hash=3d3954106b0a8a3598243c82a7e477fa684bd1da)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FITR%2520seats%2FIMG_20120422_131030.jpg&hash=441da10ab80f363c968fddda0ca6064c508382b4)
final product of the CRX/ITR hybrid seat... its worthy of this thread now that there in the car...
WORK!
oh yeah...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120422_144510.jpg&hash=de0aeba7a77796932c80c677542c2ffff0ebb1d8)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120422_141206.jpg&hash=febbd04fd33a38507fa3883f0395b1bb1a3b7db4)
was trying to figure out wtf i did to fuck up my tranny, why it only had 2 working gears....oops...
if you have these parts contact me ASAP. RHMT meet deadline!
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PARTS!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120426_183433.jpg&hash=aa14a8a0fab1aab40f45977c596e8b364ae9f87f)
CRX alternator belt, Y8 dipstick (fucker aint going in my car orange), TurboSmart Boost Tee.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120430_175838.jpg&hash=79959bfa6e74e3d28ea423b84424b99ae539dd5f)
from Columbia River Manderal Bending: TD05 turbine/downpipe flange, DSM BOV flange (for GVR4 actually), and a couple bends.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120430_175851.jpg&hash=703757f0e4f4ca6336217a103c5771ec7209cdae)
the chinaRS flange, which seems pretty baller really, is from ebay.
oh yeah...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120501_190205.jpg&hash=025dd6ac5c0eb3fce8df6d1b42fbfc3ccb9d84c2)
lol, chinaRS is wrinkle black now.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120501_190227.jpg&hash=7f5fd15244e439707745cc1abfabd47afdf4ab43)
so is my VC, still needs the letters sanded or painted. not sure yet.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX%2FIMG_20120501_184731.jpg&hash=b1c969bc392b0c832212fb6c080d8cd1fc199761)
EMUSA/china38... couple springs and shit hardware. those stupid o-ring lookin things dont fit. springs arent marked. and dont know whats installed. quality.
thats it... new plan is to just keep buying shit for it. hope the parts just wander themselves onto the car, etc. im not gonna work on it...
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WORK!!!
going in reverse today cuz its more exciting that way...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120503_220512.jpg&hash=3583bf56018bd592429e7a2007dff6644a16bd17)
THATS RIGHT FUCKER!... i have been fighting this this trans for a minute now. simple answer is that D-series are fuckin gay. and yes, i messed it up putting it back together. i have now found the problem, fixed teh shit i bent, again, and put it all back together. seems to work pretty smooth now! ;DDD
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120503_215039.jpg&hash=2165156b6b1f46a09e396c66d56669b230fbdb61)
ACT PP fits now!!! OEM P2E (96-00 Civic) disc behind it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120503_192150.jpg&hash=5522039a8f57a7aac78006ec5fd602aee3465a55)
homie hookup on the correct size flywheel. this one is a chromoly XTD flywheel complete with speed holes. weighs in at 8.125lbs before machining... and it needed a lot.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120503_191803.jpg&hash=9a9b37f7c82ac57cb41cc6ab041bc6042f3bf2a7)
new OEM pilot bearing cuz the one that came with the ACT is stuck in the POS 88-89 flywheel.
scored a B18C 61mm throttle body off my buddy i was building the motor for. we put a blox 70mm or whatever on his.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120502_205149.jpg&hash=1c75495b550a2944d30ec6bc42b5180a5bacbfca)
had an issue with getting my oil fitting into the block, got pissed off and ordered this. fucker better not leak. already installed it along with a new Honda/Filtech oil filter.
thats all today. gonna do some serious work this weekend... stay tuned!
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Oh yea crx ftw!
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i was gonna bitch out. but spent some time looking for hardware, cuz the store was closed. spent some time dressing up and cleaning items also.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120504_220901.jpg&hash=9cc19f8f4315eb0a29d04b83f32d053e41fec564)
rear and passenger mount are setup. drivers is being a bitch. but doesnt matter anyway, im gonna take the bracket back off. its way to close to the timing belt. so im gonna grind away at the fucker till i think i have enough belt clearance. need to trim the lower cover for the crank pulley also.
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I have that same drop light. Sucks because when ever you set it on its back it hits the on/off switch and turns it off. Fucking piece of shit.... Getting there nog. U think you'll be able to drive it to the dyno day?
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I have that same drop light. Sucks because when ever you set it on its back it hits the on/off switch and turns it off. Fucking piece of shit.... Getting there nog. U think you'll be able to drive it to the dyno day?
omg. i hate that pos. cant wait to run it over with the car or something...
the signs are pointing to yes. im missing a fitting for the top of the turbo. i need to find a 12mm banjo to -3an fitting.
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WORK!
ok, today was my day off... plan was to work on this beast all day...
first up was the motor mount bracket. it was scaring me. it was close to the timing belt. and when you pushed on the belt it would go about the tooth depth in. so with a little belt slap...eeeeh.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_103632.jpg&hash=55bf97392c294d374d8a6a33629d11894bda7eca)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_104029.jpg&hash=3bd02c82ae74e4a92f76bd02236ee7373ae4d30b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_104220.jpg&hash=f2e789f8b914c431f23a27b8e9152cf05fb3c951)
looks like i forgot the before pic... but i cut in about 5-6mm or so i think. as you can see, i have clearance now.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_115959.jpg&hash=f192bcbad37b9c201947fb8875174498858eff11)
details... small things. but shit, i noticed that some of the smallest bother me, and stack up quick. this was brand new, so it made it easier to paint than after its oil soaked.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_122011.jpg&hash=b0d362101b4a1e7b24986cface4f77a13dcebac5)
threw the VC on for a shot.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_161137.jpg&hash=2b4edcb6a505a6065fd92e11232970240d9e4083)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_161129.jpg&hash=de8b21f1594e039a9982b70093cf7a4d6e0b6969)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_183909.jpg&hash=a09094b57c5bc7094f495c13bd55469bc9d4d98a)
i was kinda worried about the downpipe. needs to clear the stock front mount. oh yeah, swapped in an unmodified crossmember. i bought a bunch of materials from CRMB (Columbia River Mandrel Bending). but i kinda liked the look of the ITR downpipe i had sitting there. it was 180* the wrong way in every way. i cut that fucker up pretty good. and made what i think is a pretty decent downpipe.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_183850.jpg&hash=de0dae2c42f613b08f84b1cd08b66e28ebf1534c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_203759.jpg&hash=26aed9eb93a115efeeca0bf87cd4a0231776eaec)
my hot pipe. lol. this turned out little better than i was thinking it was going to. shit i should have took a pic of it installed. ill do it later. it has opened up my imagination for something else too...
thats a stock GVR4 elbow cut and rotated, whore to weld to btw, to a 2" sch40? weld el lol, and to a hacked up leftover piece of CRX/ITR chargepipe. then goes to a rubber 2.5" 90* Mishimoto coupler on the intercooler.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_203811.jpg&hash=e037a32efd9362698f25b4f65cdbf1d5308fefed)
my power distribution block. i mounted this a while back. i need to figure out my starter cable. i cut it up when mounting this, then realized i should have done it another way lol.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_203826.jpg&hash=b3d60d855d7dd419b0d36fe8e5e467f25d3b8449)
linkage installed... threw my SK2 knob on it. think it looks good. little darker than my other one, but i find it slightly more fitting to the car. railed her threw the gears, STILL ALL THERE ;)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_203745.jpg&hash=e2f781830c50a930eeb16d59a071057e0b5f6e3a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120505_203738.jpg&hash=bda55d23619a14c42859d06cf7d331128959e4d1)
couple parting pics...
todays work:
~modded mount
~swapped crossmember
~put alternator and other accessory shit, hooked up hoses/harness/crank pulley/belt/etc...
~swapped BIG plug distributor shit into P06? housing. idk what it is, i just found it, seems to fit right . and now has the right plug, and all the internals are known good (out the B20)
~built downpipe
~built hot charge pipe
~installed shift linkage
~ported Z6 intake a little for B18C/61mm throttle body
~modded B18C throttle body for standard throttle wire setup, swapped 2.5bar MAP, and TPS onto it.
~installed TB to Z6 mani after cleaning the shit out of both... used new OEM P73 ITR gasket.
think thats it...
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Solid work nog!
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Looks like it might make it to the dyno day boosted.
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Looks like it might make it to the dyno day boosted.
idk. im kinda scared. but at the very least i got my ass in gear. shit will be done SOON!
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what a long ass day. even had a huge unexpected fire.... did you know brake cleaner and cardboard is highly flammable? ::)
welded an O2 bung in my buddies turbo Hyundai. O0
he wanted to work on the GVR4. so we put the 680cc injectors, MAF-Translator, and Denso/SupraTT fuel pump and did some quick driving around to make sure everything was setup right. legit enough. stupid 1G MAF is off that now lol. still needs chargepipes and intercooler installed.
oh, only one pic of Galant work...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120506_160256.jpg&hash=8b7646cc0a2b2d1b84b06ee4b43ba1a913f7c626)
this was the answer to my buddies "wtf? the terminals are different, do you have some connectors?" lol of course i do :Jew:
CRX WORK:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120506_183512.jpg&hash=76336b3012fa16b6b6dabad9883953e20661e600)
changed up the design from previous setups. mainly cuz i sold the TiAL and gave im that upper pipe. wanted something nicer/different. this was just about what i had visioned.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120506_193638.jpg&hash=8b7e399bd48600125bdadac46c4a84dc8c22cd85)
thats the wastegate mount. im sure most people are use to seeing them on the manifold. well i just cut the flapper out the turbo, ported the hole, and mount wg like so... not 100% original idea. this is pretty much the setup on my GVR4 also. DSM guys use this setup all the time. so i know it works also.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120506_200454.jpg&hash=dab830a303354954d4fd600b46b776dda6f566d3)
im putting forth a little more effort on this project. so i made myself a dump tube...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120506_200603.jpg&hash=dc376f75aa9d1f5c258edc4070ac8fe0df9bde7d)
street sweeper status. its got an angle cut that stops at the bottom of the crossmember. :)
did some work on the oil drain also. but not pics of that, its not that exciting. and really, just not many pics today. sorry.
todays work:
O2 in Hyundai
MAFT/pump/680s in GVR4
intake manifold on
cold chargepipe made
bov flange mounted
wastage mounted
dumptube made
started oil pan/turbo drain
probably not as much as i would have liked. but did get side tracked, and did get what i wanted to done.
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Oh yea do work!
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SUPER disappointed. was hoping to have this running this weekend for the NW Meet. but it looks like i was sent the wrong fitting, or maybe im retarded? idk. but this shit isnt gonna work.
little progress pic.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120508_204147.jpg&hash=304fa031bc3e88db96bf01c1d74e6424abfb6efc)
im really diggin this setup. its simple, but effective. and is just coming together nicely...
i keep buying shit from Honda. picked up
hardware (heat shield bolts, axle nuts, cotter pins, etc)
throttle cable (fuck ghettoness of making cables work, just buy the right one to begin with)
hoses
no pics, looks like the rest of the new OEM parts LOL.
some porting i did on the 14b
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120507_201833.jpg&hash=f007de7ded05ad5abe66bdef363b6ea19ad5def0)
took the step off the turbine housing.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120507_201827.jpg&hash=53dcfdd3e4c00b0d8fb74a5c75f72a805e15d5d2)
ported wastegate hole out, and smoothed the entrance. should aid flow. obviously cut the OEM flapper out the way
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120507_201819.jpg&hash=6a2404f926dfd3c45985a3fabb3648ed9fb0accc)
welded the flapper hole shut.
PS
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120508_071747.jpg&hash=a98f7cb1e87824c9a0bc2198610577c334284e26)
this thing is a whore. stupid ass snap ring holding the compressor on. bolts are easier....if they dont break lol.
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the fittings for the wastegate not working? Tap them for npt
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the fittings for the wastegate not working? Tap them for npt
i only used the one on the side, and it threaded fine... i did use real TiAL hardware tho, had some kickin around in the bottom of the toolbox.
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i just re-read what i wrote... the OIL FITTING into the top of the turbo is gayness. i ordered a banjo bolt to -3AN fitting, from what i was told i needed. and this shit isnt gonna work.
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damn it wanted to see it runnin. what do you need then?
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damn it wanted to see it runnin. what do you need then?
i have a -3an line going to my DSM/MHI 14b/TD05 turbo with no fitting to connect it to...
that would be the big problem. the other being that im still not done, and this has never ran before, no tune, etc. it WILL run soon. just need to figure this shit out.
i will be at the meet tho, just in my Galant VR4.
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I ment do you know what thead pitch size you need?
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I ment do you know what thead pitch size you need?
m12x1.25
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Weird i had similar shit happen to me. I ordered an oil line kit from Stealthypants for a 14b and the fitting kept leaking... I emailed him years later (when i installed the thing) and he sent me the right fitting for like 10 bucks with a free adjustable restrictor thing.
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reminds of back when I did my sohc turbo build. Good Luck! lookin good so far. ;)
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thanks.
yeah i PM;ed Steve. see what he says. not even sure he sells that shit anymore? i think what im using is a couple pieces of a stealthmode kit. actually im damn sure it is. but it didnt have a TT fitting? but i guess those are probably lost to the pages of history also. i lost a block fitting and a 1/8NPT-3AN fitting, pretty sure i left it on my B20 when i sold it. :-\
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ok im super pissed or something that this wasnt done a couple weeks ago.
i figured out what im gonna do for oil feed/drain. ordered more parts for that...
i did the rest of the finishing touches i could do up to the point of the rest of the car (waiting for oil issue to be resoloved before putting in intercooler, radiator, pipes, bumper, strut bar.....)
dropped 2qt of honda MTF into the tranny... id say about 1/2qt leaked back out the fill and drivers axle.... fuck. thats a new axle seal. trans holds 1.9-2.0qts.
ran into an issue with the galant. crx lost a part... ended up having to order from dealer...
OEM parts!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120523_133957.jpg&hash=d8b5006795258b6b7d3b25a95d63a81a5e3e7350)
...err... wrong OEM lol.
found a CRX (civic hatch anyway) hood in white...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120523_174148.jpg&hash=6750fcead27be975f513abb647bc94864e7cdc37)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120523_174952-1.jpg&hash=edc75302c6632c8ccee7d68c21552a26a6582cbe)
pics just of the under side apparently. was DIRTY/GREASY as shit. exterior is rough... need to finish cleaning, maybe a claybar/etc see where im at. but im gonna need some paint for front/rear bumpers anyway. so no big deal. looks to be OEM and its straight.
:Jew:
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WORK!
ok so 3day weekend. lets make some shit happen.
LAPTOP:
it fuckin sucks. got pissed off, reloaded stripped down XP. fucker seems quick now. only tuning laptop now. i got a tablet to play around on, and of course my PC (and phone..think thats it? lol)
loaded up Firefox of course. and Crome. 1.5.3 if it matters. and some bins. but i took a old JD bin and modified it up, it was for a Y8 with a 2.5bar and 550s... close enough. obviously a cast piston motor bin so like 10psi tune. but its a starting point.
CRX:
ok. just an assload of pics. so probably just little commentary, you should get the hit. just automotive porn really...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_142743.jpg&hash=ffa7c4e227162af9885bf285a8cae3d742f40cc5)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_142750.jpg&hash=78c358d2dcd3947013767cee3bce19611aed997c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_142801.jpg&hash=b25d270157a1d618bd69e0fa87a0f1ae2e294ca5)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_142828.jpg&hash=0ee9c2fab8c6a0fe0d31462ef3cbd44277873f64)
i just like that dump...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_142836.jpg&hash=1c949fe29ab152884adc2ed497dd7050af4f4e35)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_142820.jpg&hash=5e0f5b82517e1a4815cfec0035b8a36af3cfc85f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_160942.jpg&hash=d2e0360ebec1f1df10066c733231a0da2f688dac)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_151501.jpg&hash=bfababce36e2ff20c761c9145c49d75be4f6b19f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_160958.jpg&hash=2698a9174fcb28f10069c0d00115c1978824525e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_161008.jpg&hash=97e5810241310900d4e43ad0371ea3f60125098b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_182205.jpg&hash=0cd2408dfe4df3bc62ab4d677d803b92938f278a)
you might think i was hell bent on getting both the fans i bought to fit. sure i tried. but really it was close enough to begin with. so i gave it a little more effort to get it to work. obviously i could run a shroud on the passenger size as i had plenty of room. drivers side i had none. but just a nut hair of clearance (ok like 3-4mm). hopefully i dont have that much movement with the filled mounts.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_191400.jpg&hash=32704b8e3fec56054f188a107b392be34ba7157f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_191418.jpg&hash=81c067df570dd1b5b320f12ac04be737a9b68024)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_194826.jpg&hash=e1f7e730ff7e03b0395ef04a850cc973ba5b1eea)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_194854.jpg&hash=cab4e24093b4067a1298a8b28ec21190d88ac9f4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_194935.jpg&hash=37f2afedb03fe5fd079103ced114aaecd472032f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_194957.jpg&hash=c584d8c5e2fda0521232eff6c2e9754b2b7cafff)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_195022.jpg&hash=9ffa1498de0728647702ec3faf803db55c08185c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_195043.jpg&hash=4436bb8f9c72466e341f63d6608285b6eb821626)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_195057.jpg&hash=047ad0919e796092c43082f6b8038ccf8f10986a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_195207.jpg&hash=db62ef46c949f1f2c884556150e45d48fcefb454)
wired up this relay. so the second fan will have direct power off the battery with a negative trigger off the other fan. hope it works lol.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_195558.jpg&hash=7bbfca2a95248e9f51969b927f64555f29bac984)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120526_195649.jpg&hash=bea757cb3ac30b55991c55d7ffdf0579a2568dfb)
oh yeah if you have been following my thread, i never did post that i got new OEM Honda wires/cap/rotor (96-97 tune kit/update thing) and some BKR7Es gapped down, dont know what to, but down and to the same for all 4 LOL. looked like .020"
your computer handle that shit? lol...
ok. tomorrow i plan to see wtf is wrong with my axle seal situation. maybe fill it with the rest of the fluids and give her a start. see if this shits gonna work LOL.
:Jew:
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Fucken eh! Looks clean man. I like. I live how much room there is jb the bay when its just a d series.
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thanks. there is just a little more room, but it deff helps.
btw. i think the wrinkle black chargepipe/bov looks like shit. valve cover looks good. ehh :-\
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Do work!
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Not a huge fan of the wrinkle black on the charge pipes. I don't even care for flat black because it looks like chockboard paint. I have stock in the low gloss black....lol I think I have like 4 cans in the garage. Shit was in sale so u got a case.
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ok so today id say i just about finished final assembly. full of fluids. i got all my shizzle wired up.
oh yeah, not sure if i posted this:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120514_212021.jpg&hash=3a90c47e5afb63285be33b76ef5bc6f33fd82a60)
HRTuning/Neptune TunerView II. http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/tunerview2-smdash (http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/tunerview2-smdash)
looks like a pretty badass setup. and i always have issues with gauges. i dont like them, i dont want to mount them, i dont want them in my car. and i dont want to buy them :Jew:
this shows me what the ECU reads (not some crap ass aftermarket gauge), and has the ability to show me all of them. plus you can feed it wideband, and a couple other sensors you can setup (oil pressure?oil temp? or whatever you want)... whatever, read there page.
bogus part is that xenofag seems to be the only retailer... so buy direct? nope, just sends the money to him anyway. appeared to be drop shipped tho.
i bought that shit weeks ago. started hacking up my cluster to mount it in there. just didnt fit where i wanted it. so made a quick change. id say it looks pretty good.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120527_225354.jpg&hash=3cca71a8df75053b5720bd7de442fdb44dbb6fa2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120527_225402.jpg&hash=102e36dccdd2f80cf7c981f99f6356623c9306d7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120527_221416.jpg&hash=83dd1712cda68a3456ec11545bcbe4f506433837)
setup comes with 2 buttons to move threw the pages, clear CEL, etc. mounted them in a large knockout panel to the right of the steering wheel.
ill try to remember to get pics of it mounted later
i had to extend the wires cuz they where way the fuck to short to use for anything but right next to it.
the other thing is a switch for the radiator fans. its an override. bypass' the fan switch, and grounds the circuit.
ill try to take pics...or fuck maybe a video of that shit workin.
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That worked out pretty sick, does that work the with stock form ecu, or do you have to run hondata/neptune/moates demon?
Ps it looks like your cluster reads 892,000 miles.. shits gangster
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Does it have a shift light? Digital reading is nowhere as pleasing to the human eye as a sweeping needle. I want to get an rd1 for my car.
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Does it have a shift light? Digital reading is nowhere as pleasing to the human eye as a sweeping needle. I want to get an rd1 for my car.
[/quote
I agree that I don't like the digital tach. But then again, I know when to shift, its when I hit my rev limiter, then I shift...lol I don't think it does shift light though. But you could always set that to your cel light. Or even use your cel to trip a bright ass led.
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That worked out pretty sick, does that work the with stock form ecu, or do you have to run hondata/neptune/moates demon?
Ps it looks like your cluster reads 892,000 miles.. shits gangster
thanks.
no, yes, it need to be chipped with pretty much any obd1 honda program. even works on krpo.
yes, my cluster does read 892+k miles :Jew:
Does it have a shift light? Digital reading is nowhere as pleasing to the human eye as a sweeping needle. I want to get an rd1 for my car.
idk. i will be using the CEL shift light in crome. i donlt like the digital tack, numbers or sweep. nor do i really use the stock one. not a big loss. i probablynwould have got an rd1 if i knew i would have put it in the tach location.
Does it have a shift light? Digital reading is nowhere as pleasing to the human eye as a sweeping needle. I want to get an rd1 for my car.
[/quote
I agree that I don't like the digital tach. But then again, I know when to shift, its when I hit my rev limiter, then I shift...lol I don't think it does shift light though. But you could always set that to your cel light. Or even use your cel to trip a bright ass led.
im actually thinking of doing a couple led's in the cluster backlighting off the CEL... maybe another day...
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STARTER IS BAD...
fuck that starter. its a schucks reman. matches the alternator that i didnt even bother to use. i didnt notice it was a reman till after i took it out. only bonus it has was it is....was? a Denso unit.
i have had an extra cable starter here forever. kept it as a spare for teh wagon... but honestly, i have no idea where the fuck it came from? it looks like a 88 starter. doesnt mean much to most, but the starter post points right at the motor mount. get a good shock if you dont disconnect the battery first lol.
had them both tested at the auto parts store. fuck. that kid was SLOW. like shortbus slow. took 10mins to test both of them (should have just used my foot and jumper cables). would have took longer but i told him just to test the second starter now. he kept freaking out cuz it didnt match is picture, then asked/said he didnt know which post was the GROUND..... :?:
anyway. couple good lookin chicks coming/going/working in that 10mins, or i might have went postal waiting.
he did note that the back of the housing on the "good" one was a little on the hot size. something ill have to keep in mind i guess.
speaking of good actually. the BAD one did show as testing as "good" on his machine.. LOL. but thats why it has a window to watch. it had a good power draw and all. kicked out, but it DIDNT spin. GOOD!...wait? 100% confirmed what i thought. (that most schucks/orieleys employees are idiots, and the starter is bad)
me and the TunerView are having difficulties. i swear i seen sparks/light/something not good happen in the middle of the two pieces maybe some smoke/smell? i might have imagined that tho, its not well lit around my computer. but whoever answered my email asap like seems to think thats not possible. so i plugged it back in. and flashed/uploaded shit onto it again. plugged it into the car. still just says "connecting..." idk. wtf.
stupid cable was pinned wrong too.
im exhausted. my head hurts. this shit doesnt make sense im sure. cuz it came from my head....and that doesnt make sense.
oh i did put the other starter in. and after having the Galant hooked up to it for like 30mins with a set of 20ft long jumper cables (yeah? wtf. GVR4 was parked behind the CRX lol) i i cranked on it a bunch. get some oil pumped around. listen for not good. make sure no fuel leaks, etc.
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DO WORK! ;DDD
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update.
im exhausted by this car. dont really feel like doing anything. idk. fuck.
tunerview wont connect.
freelog wont connect/log/display either.
curious if the ostrich is even updating with my tune.
oh yeah, wont start. cranks solid. sounds good. reluctantly i did a compression test like 120-120-90-120... on a motor that hasnt even run. so idk. never compression tested a motor that hadnt run i dont think. i would like to see a 180psi number out of it on my tester with this compression.
not really worried about the compression numbers at this point. should start with those numbers.
i have fuel pressure (40something psi), wideband numbers move from lean to numbers when cranking. so there is fuel getting in there... some 6month old shit? but the galant ran on shit that was 5years old lol.
its got spark.
timing belt is on minty. double checked. base timing in the tune is at 12deg.
didnt make any changes to wiring harness (didnt even take it out the car) other than adding VTEC. dizzy internals are from the B20 motor swapped into a P06 case. same P61 ECU i have had forever (has worked wtih freelog before?).
battery is kirkland homo edition... only charges up to like 340cca. guess i will probably buy a new Honda one monday....should have just brought a new one home friday.
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try some carb cleaner to rule out the old gas
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try some carb cleaner to rule out the old gas
i dont have any carb cleaner. i might have some TB, brake, and simple green ;)
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Carb cleaner? Fuck that, throw some starting fluid in and let her rip! Stock injectors?
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Carb cleaner? Fuck that, throw some starting fluid in and let her rip! Stock injectors?
i dont have starting fluid. shits missing. remember lighting a fire with it, then it was missing lol.
EVO 560cc pink tops.
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Carb cleaner? Fuck that, throw some starting fluid in and let her rip! Stock injectors?
i dont have starting fluid. shits missing. remember lighting a fire with it, then it was missing lol.
EVO 560cc pink tops.
Throw some stock ones in for the first start up. Try and make 1 move at a time. That way your not trying to trouble shoot so many things.
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im not swapping injectors around.
i dont have any other good injectors
these 560s work. i have used them before. they where in my ITR/B20, and my friends 1g. ran fine in mine and hers.
may i am trying to use is a JD map for RC550s, 2.5motorola, Y8, etc. only changes i really made where to work better with a quicker spooling turbo, and smooth out higher boost timings... no fuel changes made yet.
how/why the fuck cant i upload an attachment here? i see it on every other forum i have posted on? i would like to post my bin...
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err... yup it runs. lol. ::)
sounds good, sounds solid. she rattles around a little till it warned up. then the injectors where louder. warmed up fully. BOTH fans kicked on solid by themselves.
then noticed the oil drain leaking oil...cuz well, thats what DSM's do. its a DSM turbo/drain...soo? yup.
luckly hondabond fixes shit like that. so covered it in hondabond...now i cant touch it till tomorrow. oops.
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so wanna hear the story why it didnt run? lol.
answer is in my previous posts.
so i text my buddy Bryan D. (came with the 4g63 Hyundai to the meet), said all the above, sounds solid, fuel/spark, compression low'ish, etc.... he said "sounds like timing off"
so, to myself: fuck. pulled the upper cover, TDC that fucker. then check service manual to make sure i put belt on right (i did), check map is set to 12*, check that dizzy is in the middle? along with checking over other shit. crank dizzzy both ways, cranking away... still the same...
fuck. wait. lets check EVERYTHING? pull the cap off, stare at the rotor. oh yeah. pull timing covers back off. crank up to TDC/up on timing gear and the dizzy of course points at #2.... so everythi....FUCK. really?
lol. so remember before when i said i swapped the known good internals into a random ass case that fit the Y8 so that my harness would plug in and i knew the internals all worked? yup. well the distributor bolts up different. ohh about 90* off.
so i swapped in a different reluctor wheel set, that was 90* different than that one. and worked first crank. lol.
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Sounds good let her rip!
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cuz everyone loves OEM parts (or should)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120605_200058.jpg&hash=5160370af8a7dffccdc36f7b0a0a44c1688cac54)
:noel:
so i installed the battery and it cranked over and started on its own champ? FUCK NO... runs for like half a second at a time. so after messing with it a bunch, swapping parts around, checking shit. i throw a stock MAP sensor in it (i have a 2.5bar Motorola in stock case) swapping bins real quick, and pretty much starts right up with no issue. shit. anyway. ill rock it for a bit at lower boost i guess. but i need to get a 2.5bar back in it before getting it tuned/dynoed.
drove it up the street real quick. its leaking a little oil still. diff/trans bearings are making a little noise. sounds like it might need some more tweeking. but i think it will be solid.
CEL for VSS... noticed it wasnt working... probably not plugged in actually.
Tunerview still doesnt work. just blinks. and the only value that changes is MAP (and its wrong). the rest are all just pegged out, causing the warnings to go off, aka blink. :'(
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RUNS, DRIVES, EXCITED...still little annoyed.
tunerview doesnt wanna work. keeps grounding internally and turning the fuel pump on and off.
so i have no gauges.
good news is apparently when the CRX broke it was out of gas. went to Chevron for a tankfull of fresh 92... by the last mileage that tank was like 25mpg or something. its been sitting for like 6months? or something too.
drove it around town some. got like 12miles on it. got into boost a little a couple times (no gauge, so no idea how much lol) and its running stupid rich. wont even make a full pull if you tried. needs some tuning. but my basemap is ehh, ok. pretty much rich all over. but drivable forsure. just needs some work.
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couple videos of it running...
efssuck2 - VID_20120609_143251.mp4 (http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/efssuck2/CRX2/?action=view¤t=VID_20120609_143251.mp4)
engine cold start to show how much the pistons make noise. when its warm you cant hear them over the injectors. oh, i havent done a valve adjust either come to think about it.
efssuck2 - VID_20120609_143354.mp4 (http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/efssuck2/CRX2/?action=view¤t=VID_20120609_143354.mp4)
showing off my ricer ass exhaust. not really loud at idle. Galant is way louder. lol it has a Magnaflow muffler... CRX has an Invidia.
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Nice hood prop.
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Nice hood prop.
thanks. the uber gay CF hood didnt like the OEM prop. broke the hood with it. notice in the older pics im using a 88 door molding on the back crossmember ;)
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PARTS!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120610_135423.jpg&hash=530da7ba8a3de34907dcab612c89734dd4459ed9)
set of ITR (ok, Accord Wagon this time) front brake calipers. fluid looked ok, piston compressed nicely, and pins move freely...and mad jew cheap of course... just need some SS front brake lines, and some Mini Cooper rotors... (my CRX already has EX knuckles)
also got a set of hood hinges. my drivers side is bent and fucked up. passenger one is just loose.
new drivers side is in paint right now, along with the body... new passenger one? fucker is like seized lol. might just shelf it.
gonna try to mount the steel hood i got a week or two back on the CRX tomorrow (its at work). but it will probably benefit from a legit hinge.
took hte hood cowl off to get to the hinge bolts...omg, nasty. didnt even take a pic. just cleaned the shit out of it. blew out all the pine needles, etc. looks minty now. cleaned the cowl also. shit need to strip and paint the wiper arms......back to work!
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DAILY DRIVIN' DUTYS:
first tank: ~27mpg :-\
second: ~30mpg :) <~this is with cruising AFR's at like 12.2's lol.
thinking about buying a new WB O2 sensor tho, im getting solid 13.5's once fully warmed up at idle. any less and it seems to lean missfire and get pissed off. so i left it there... but been noticing once i get to work its idling 14.5-15.2's with a lean missfire when dropping into the high 14s.... idk kinda doubting its readings...
would like to push the MPG passed 35... pretty sure thats what the EK got on its last tank with a Y7/Y8, that probably could have been better. CRX is lighter, more aerodynamic, etc.
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Sounds like what larger P&H injectors like to do when run off a resister box to me. Low pulsewidths == lean missfires because the fucking pintle either never or barely gets off the seat.
But I only had one experience, and everyone said I must be doing something wrong. lol.
Solid work niggle. I really, really liked the 11.1" brake setup on my old CRX, but I have become somewhat of an unsprung weigh Nazi these days.
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yeah i had issue with my PTE1000s also. but the idea with running these evo injectors is that they would be just the opposite from what im told. way better spray pattern, can run them leaner, etc. idk...
thinking im gonna buy a Hulog, and cromegold...so i can datalog and tune myself...
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yeah i had issue with my PTE1000s also. but the idea with running these evo injectors is that they would be just the opposite from what im told. way better spray pattern, can run them leaner, etc. idk...
thinking im gonna buy a Hulog, and cromegold...so i can datalog and tune myself...
Cromegold comes with 1.6 and newr updates. :noel:
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so i can datalog with free 1.6? cuz thats what im using.
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I always used Freelog. It is a pain in the ass, but it is free and it works.
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i cant get it to connect or post up relevant data. :-\
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*UPDATE*
pulled a 32.5mpg tank last week. then the next was like a 28.5... still needs a fair amount of tuning work. i have jsut been DD it to work. about 250miles a week/tank.... been threw 5-6 probably. i could check my cluster for exact miles, but theres an idea.
oh yeah on that note. its not hot as ballz today so i decided to do a compression test, check plugs, etc.
plugs all looked fine. had some oil down a couple of the tubes. forgot to change the seals. oops. threw some better temps in. get some new honda ones in there soon.
compression test numbers where about 180psi across (within 1-3psi). there was more than a little oil in#4, so naturally that was a little higher (almost 190). ill check that one again after im sure the oil burns off lol.
seems to run fine. other than a little bit of a rattle when cold. but as expected.
im thinking im going to just bite the bullet and get eCtune. fuckit. i have an ostrich already, pickup a Hulog, and a MAC solenoid for some boost by gear action. and call it good. ill throw the mbc i have into the GVR4 (and probably buy a second MAC for upcoming project also).
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Get ect; you'll never go back...
Just beware about licensing. Just a thorn, not too bad.
When yearly re reg comes up DON'T PLUG IN OSTRiCH and run ectune; it will reset it and cause issues until you get your renewed reg. I have a workaround pm me if it comes down to it. Sooo simple you'll laugh, but not something openly discussed.... I try to protect ectune :). It's been very solid for me.
Too bad you aren't local; I would give you the in person how-to's :)
If you don't mind upgrading to a demon; try Neptune; just as solo as ectune, but I prefer ectune.
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yeah im BAD with updating shit. i never update my PC lol. phone and most my apps im ok with. but im sure once i setup up my CRX with its tune, and work out my boost by gear. ill probably never touch it. im sure i will get boned by this stupid registration thing one day when i try to change a revlimit or something stupid.
im watching a couple AEM EMS;s at the moment (not for CRX), but once those pass ill be back to wanting to buy eCtune for the CRX.
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I'm really liking Neptune, especially the on-board logging. Don't need a PC in the car until you pull the datalogs. Plus no lockouts.
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Hrtuning offers an upgrade trade in for the demon....
I hear xeno isn't selling licenses because of time it takes; and the ectune webstore down? Though I haven't checked this for fact myself; it was on ect forums, and I havent seen Calvin post there in some time.
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Hrtuning offers an upgrade trade in for the demon....
I hear xeno isn't selling licenses because of time it takes; and the ectune webstore down? Though I haven't checked this for fact myself; it was on ect forums, and I havent seen Calvin post there in some time.
yeah sounds interesting on the trade in. although not really needed? but idk. im seriously not happy with my tunerview, not sure im willing to try Neptune... :-\
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well fuck me. i have been having a little issue the last couple days, CRX wasnt going full lean (turning off the injectors) on decell. sometimes was just holding like 13.5's AFR's. not good. also, getting some random AFR fluctuation, but thought that may be caused by something else. first thought was TPS. but in reality Honda TPS's never really go bad. and i cant test it cuz i gave mine to a buddy that NEEDED one bad. but i did test the voltage and calibrated it (didnt remember if i did to begin with). so i set it up, double check, ehh little off, then semi tighten it, wonder around, come back, and its way the fuck off again?!?! this is without even the car running. nope. dont like.
so mentioned all this to guy at work, he digs around and pulls out a 92-93 DX lookin throttle body with a minty lookin TPS, tells me to lmk what i find.
so i hack off TPS, install, etc... shit works minty. calibrates just fine. doesnt move, and i did wait lol. went for a drive and shit. i didnt think it drove/idled/whatever poorly, but it does it better now ;DDD
so while i was at it i figured i would give the Tunerview II another shot. im 99% sure i found the problem (hardware, not caused by me) and i got her mounted up! hopefully it doesnt act up, and it shouldnt, even threw in a little safety. shit turns off the ECU/fuel pump when its causing a ruckus.
anyway, im sure you came for pics, i know i do...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120801_193847.jpg&hash=49ea5f14133ca7d05aadb55ee290b5b786c9d994)
thats my view...threw the SPOON wheel, too bad i lost my ballin HF tach with its 5k redline going up little passed the missing 8k marker lol. up to 893k tho! lol
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120801_193854.jpg&hash=b9c8b7e7f9a038cd8fb853a92a11ff8f4630a9b4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120801_193918.jpg&hash=0f298d89c1cfc8d5d68e9e0ae859c00285672b16)
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off, then on... last is the right and left scroll buttons (switch is for fan ON override). its set up to display 7 screens...
that sounds like it requires a video...
efssuck2 - VID_20120801_193930.mp4 (http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/efssuck2/CRX2/?action=view¤t=VID_20120801_193930.mp4)
thats all for now. maybe more later....
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DO WORK!
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so a meet was bought to my attention, and realized i havent been to any lol. always complain that the hood/bumpers are up to par. so i felt some actual want to work on the car. so i brang it to work, and PRESSURE WASHED off all the paint off the front bumper. yeah. didnt really stick too well to the bare plastic of the bumper. i also bought some adhesion promoter. was recommended by a couple people. so im gonna give it another try, and paint the rear bumper.
i wet sanded down the hood with some 2k grit, took all the grainy texture of it. started polishing it, looks liek its going to turn out ok. also think i fixed the hood alignment. looked like didnt really wanna shut all the way.
been staring at the tunerview non stop. noticing that the coolant temps are way higher than i want them to be. been fucking with it for weeks now. i cant really get the temps down when its cruising speed. thinking of getting a full legnth aluminum radiator... we will see.
NEW PROJECT COMING SOON... :Jew:
i know i keep saying that. but im lazy and shit. he isnt really in a hurry. he says he will try to drop it off this weekend. whenever it gets here ill make a thread. its gonna be a minute before its a driver. needs paint/swap/turbo...
CRX will continue. although not really looking to do too much to it. might do some suspension shit, and needs tuned. plan to drive it and have fun. probably DD status cuz it gets good mileage.
GVR4 will continue also. it needs the intercooler installed. will be working on that here very soon. need to get it ready for winter snow drifting. maybe a real engine management system...
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Were are the pic's!
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didnt have my phone on me when i was pressure washing the bumper, just looks like a black bumper now with just a couple little paint spots. stuck good on the drivers bumper light pocket. the other bumper is just a red 90 rear bumper. ill take some pics when i start painting on them.
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ok some car porn for ya. im sure not many are here to look at my ramblings anyway lol.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_125113.jpg&hash=419e27ca2a3c0df785c64d2e19c9e19e142e64c5)
these are the victims. 90 HF rear bumper (to complete my 90-91 swap) that i have had forever, just havent wanted to put the work into it to get it useable, and paint it after the front didnt hold for shit. speaking of, thats the other bumper, new 90-91 unit. i litterly pressure washed off the paint with the washer in our detail bay.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_145753.jpg&hash=1ede5a36da18ac125b2c85df374127b0d87afebb)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_145759.jpg&hash=312b8f75b3d9f9000b324298c9c756999797b93b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_165431.jpg&hash=e54b29890da6f6468dee7464e56c273a0970529f)
rear all sanded then primed up. then the last pic is after wet sanding down and washing.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_165426.jpg&hash=d6aef9701482a63cd8f94d7b3dd4e21d045a3c21)
CRX sitting and watching patently to get its newly painted parts.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_165438.jpg&hash=9079b8f706cc3500bd909c4f0bd46342e6fdc907)
buffed out the hood while waiting for coats and shit. hood was not the best condition, and still isnt. but i did get it to polish out ok. phone probably doesnt picture it well tho...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_145807.jpg&hash=25d48463e5e9b98c0e71d7068861aca5564f9a8a)
laid down this adhesion promoter, looked like complete shit. so i sanded it back down.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120819_165516.jpg&hash=067911c325949cb0f9e4fa70b499028848842058)
still doesnt look all that great. but at least there isnt lint and shit in it. gonna prime it up hopefully tonight, and wet sand it. hopefully it comes out smooth and flat. and holds paint. etc.
tape sucks ass, i think its gonna have some overspray/runoff bad... but ill bumper coat it, or scratch it all off with a razor. we will see..
oh yeah, the rear bumper will be half painted half texture black before its mounted. i hate that full paint shit. OEM!
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not gonna post pics of the bumpers painted cuz there are lots of runs and shit in it. lol.
anyway, getting ready for the annual Acura of Lynnwood All Import Meet. plus just getting the cosmetics where i want them.
pics.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165455.jpg&hash=3b162cf3ee4db42279e3c8a4935d00f5d33576a1)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165449.jpg&hash=963f95dec99a83da0d8f95820e2aaa2c53f367b1)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165426.jpg&hash=f9fc71c4be4baa0545fc2956e7b1cabec31c53f8)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165407.jpg&hash=45e2b0ca1c87c36a885a98e40ce792947a21b03e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165401.jpg&hash=9b926955866aedc23f0e2ad24f76615edeb10aca)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165342.jpg&hash=1b9d8e4e11d74ae0fa9649fb963b8af054cbf47c)
this is for Marcus.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165349.jpg&hash=54a1bce55ca222ddc9c526396b01d249500ee032)
fuck you :P this took forever.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165519.jpg&hash=459f02ee6cc1f65a6f1a091c385c57c983842c48)
just little interior shot.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20120825_165531.jpg&hash=9868ddf1ca4a4831b72c4b794569033a2b9b29db)
the "tuning" laptop... really thats all it can be used for. my phone (and tablet im sure) is fuckin faster im pretty sure.
:Jew:
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Fdownload386023_273140542796330_1865.jpg&hash=1a977695304419dd0bd17bf2c9f5d76241404566)
buddy sent me this pic this morning from the meet. only decent shot i have seen so far.
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i hate this tuning shit.
spent money on a HULOG, fucker still doesnt connect. i downloaded drivers off moates.net. doesnt connect. using crome. just times out. warning messages and shit.
fuckin homo. :evil:
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Did u set all the com port setting up? Had to fuckin do it 3 times before mine started workin right
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Did u set all the com port setting up? Had to fuckin do it 3 times before mine started workin right
thought the point or the USB and drivers shit was that i didnt have to fuck with that?
it shows up as com6, setup as com6, no workie.
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Try going in to device manager, open up the com port for the hulog and change the number. It doesn't matter what number you change it to, just change it. Then go back to Crome and change it to the new number. Should work. I have to do that almost every time I use a Moates device of any kind.
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think i got it working last night. gonna rewire the pump this morning, swap to 2.5bar map, swap wideband back in the car, go try to do some tuning. :Jew:
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so i got it working. the HULOG, Ostrich, and CROME are all playing well with each other. :-*
new 2.5bar installed and working.....btw remember to change maps FIRST. then start car to warm it up lol.
rewired fuel pump to the connector. pump sounds better, i think. all in my head im sure either way.
rewired, fix, replaced bad relay for my alarm, now it both locks and unlocks LOL.
http://www.gravityimports.com/CROME_v1.6.x_Manual.pdf (http://www.gravityimports.com/CROME_v1.6.x_Manual.pdf) <~ CROME user guide/setup/help i found in another post, worth reposting!
went and did some pulls, laptop isnt holding a charge for as long as i would like, especially with the learning curve of this shit lol. after a couple auto tunes, it developed a shit ass injector cut off that i need to fix still. but the ramp into boost cleaned up pretty nicely. wasnt really logging to well past a couple lbs, so i made a semi-blind adjustment.... seems pretty solid 10.6-10.8afr's up to 10.1-11.1psi up to about 5k rpm's. gotta say, it fuckin rips. i havent driven a small turbo this quick in a long time. stock 2g talon w/t25 was just stupid heavy, and my del sol with t25 was also heavy as shit. CRX doesnt weigh shit, and gets up and moves!
:Jew:
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Yeap good manual, most comprehensive I've seen.
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It will pull harder with less fuel. That's way too much.
Glad it's sorted out though. I hate Crome. I still use it a lot, but my own car has Neptune.
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yeah. ill get it down to mid 11s. the battery just isnt there in teh lappy anymore tho.
still figuring out the datalogging. manual helped a bunch. was looking at some of my logs after dinner. need some more WOT pulls. then move onto VTEC. need to find a decent road for this lol.
shit i also forgot this gas is probably a month or so old...probably could use some fresh shit... but then again its 9:1 and has like 8.5* of timing at 11psi? probably fine?
that brings up.... i have a P61 ECU that im using, it has a knockboard. does 1.6.5 support a knock sensor feedback/retard???
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IIRC, Honda knock stuff doesn't work at WOT, it's for part throttle ign trim/fuel economy.
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Needs way more timing.
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IIRC, Honda knock stuff doesn't work at WOT, it's for part throttle ign trim/fuel economy.
ehh fuck, i think your right. bah, wont waste my time then.
Needs way more timing.
timing scares me...more than fuel. ill work slowly on that later i guess. dial the fuel. or wait for dave/dyno...
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with how small your turbo is I bet you could push 15-18* timing and be just fine. You did set you base timing on your dizzy b4 you did any tuning right?
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Yea, on that setup I would start with double the timing. With plug readings I bet you would end up around 20°. Too little timing and too much fuel can be as bad as too little fuel and too much timing.
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ill post up my maps here in a little bit then for you guys to look at.
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fuel
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Ffuel.png&hash=3f0652c5d32c84ab1fd9e13a590413dc412a8970)
timing
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Fbin1.png&hash=bbfd485cfa9773623af51159ab3201363ec39aed)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Fbin2.png&hash=ee9925273c065c2f2bdae34a4bb2d09fbce58068)
D16Y8 longblock with 9:1 (180psi) SRP pistons that have been deburred, eagle rods, Z6 IM, P72 TB, evo560 injectors, stock FPR, 2.5bar motorola map. HF mani + 14b turbo (currently 10-11psi, will be going higher). smaller intercooler.
stock head, stock cam, stock ports.
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Post a pic of the plugs. I'm sure it wants more than that
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20121209_153806.jpg&hash=a96d3025f918ac1cd405ddd16d37ccf4f22802da)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20121209_153744.jpg&hash=133c72d65bd55ea17f32a8541e0a6258be5f620d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20121209_153556.jpg&hash=31d1ec4a6c6c3ef00233e58497355c2220453f5f)
#3 plug
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Are those plugs 7's?
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Are those plugs 7's?
mmm. probably.
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Probably is not the correct answer....lol
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i know. but i had tightend the plug back down then thought to myself "what plugs are those?"
im pretty sure those are BKRE7's gapped at 28-32ish
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More timing for sure.
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Gap those plugs down :noel:
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I don't think he needs to gap them down when he said they are at .028-.032
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Gap sounds fine. He said it pulled hard. No need to have tiny gaps if the spark will jump a bigger one.
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.018 for gap, at least thats were im at, or was it .015
Looks like it needs more timing+ boost before gap though.
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I usually start around .025". I like to run the biggest gap that won't miss under boost. Makes idle/part throttle better
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from what i have read, thats what im going with also. run the biggest gap you can get away with.
kinda wish i could upload my datalogs... lappy died on the way home. but i made a couple saves... should be able to nail down freeway driving.
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When I did the ls on 20lbs, I was running .035 on some 7's @ 22lbs and it made 296 on pump gas. Not once did it miss. Now I'm running 8's @ .032 on the lsv, @ 28lbs on pump gas and it made 436. Didn't miss on those either.
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Bigger is better as long as you have the coil to push through the cylinder pressure
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so my high cam fuel maps look fucked? all the same numbers in each column? getting higher as boost goes up. but 2d not really 3d like the low cams...if i make sense.
and on the log from getting lunch today i tipped in hard 3rd, builds boost QUICK, then BAM revlimiter, cough/fart, lol... broke tires loose on a slightly damn road. but was fun. log looks ok. hitting 10s quick, then back to 11.8s or so right before the limiter. happen do quick, not sure how useable that is? but when im fallowing it single cell on the fuel map, when it crosses over into vtec, it is highlighting cells at like 8300rpms? the RPM shows at 4003 or something on the info screen on the right......so wtf?
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ok so here are my current maps. would like you guys to take a look, provide some insight.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Flowfuel_zpsc467ac83.png&hash=9ba70c2458356f11da08fbd1160ad367e37c4535)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Fhifuel_zps9c53d7e4.png&hash=a655e956dd038faa7aeb081c25955aed024fc59b)
i dont think i have touched the high cam fuel at all. just how it was?
here are some logs...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Flog2_zps59236cb4.png&hash=4c90e538439496b149bdd56f1162c26136dce060)
think this pull was legit... i do notice that VTEC is set at like 4000rpms, and seems to cut on an off for a couple 100 rpms. notice its off right there. then turns back on and stays on.....according to the log window anyway.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Flog1_zps65a2b01c.png&hash=f3a8149b44a794687b33c24e6a8cbb7fdf002438)
ok, i think this is one of the ones i had issues with. i think. might be the other one. dont really remember. but it would cough/fart right at the end of the pull, well, where i would shut it down.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Flogwtf_zps4a0ddeb0.png&hash=384ac853b6001ddd2691f5ce0bbfe31f6ba1f0f7)
wtf? kinda having an issue with this one. notice the trace, notice the RPMs in the top right....wtf?
:Jew:
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Eww tuning, cant help you there :P
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I have said it multiple times. Less fuel and more timing. You are way past conservative right now on both.
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TUNING QUESTIONS (not really specific to CROME):
my base timing specified by Honda is 12deg....
i have low comp forged pistons...
do i need to be setting my base at 12deg? or can i change the map to 16deg (or more?) along with the distributor?
this ignition map thing is bothering me. i might be changing engine management, plus im doing another build that is gonna need something custom across the board also (the Kseries/AEM). how should i be building this ignition map? im not understanding this. i have found info on like everything else i think. but the ignition table is spotty.
Honda knock sensor works at least on low end? so i can install that and have the low load part of the map dialed......then build high load maps off that? read plugs (i understand, but dont get it), listen for knock (i cant hear it)... also, i dont think i have a D-series KS. someone trade me a B-series? lol.
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http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view.pl/Library/EcuTuning (http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view.pl/Library/EcuTuning)
Blundar nailed it WBO2, datalogging, EGT , and RTP helps loads too. you are just guessing without at least the first two tools. if more timing advance is needed, it will result in a leaner O2 reading...limited by detonation. We break very few street engines with these tuning parameters:
less than 10psi: 12:1 Air Fuel Ratio
up to 16psi: 11:1 Air Fuel Ratio
9.5:1 compression or less: 1 degree retard/#boost
above 9.5:1 compression at least 1.25 degrees per psi
A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.
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that seems to have provided me with very little actual info... :-\
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Dude, I would start with a stock map. And pull .75 per lb. But then again with the stupid y8 timing base, you whole map looks skewed to me.
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Dude, I would start with a stock map. And pull .75 per lb. But then again with the stupid y8 timing base, you whole map looks skewed to me.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-management/78071-i-need-stock-d16y8-basemap.html (http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-management/78071-i-need-stock-d16y8-basemap.html)
There is 5 basemaps for crome on that page. :noel:
Start with one of those and follow what I copied from pgmfi earlier.
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I'm can't believe this base tune has been a 2 week process. It runs, just have someone tune it.
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ok. clear some things up....
i have ADD, and procrastinate like a mofo.
i dont ever visit DSO. ever.
i have 3 cars, 2 that i drive. and its raining. so its hard to tune. even more so when im not driving. and the battery keeps going dead. i got a power inverter the other day tho. so i just need to wire it in.
reason im bringing up whole new basemap thing is: i just acquired an AEM 30-1040 (OBD1 Honda/Acura). and i am setting that up. the base mapping sucks ballz. the base map it self is probably fine. but it doesnt have the user features like some other systems where it does the math and applies it to the selected map.
im trying to tune this car... or Dave will. but its a bitch to setup with him sometimes.
i would really like to know, learn, understand what is going on here. so im trying to do so. i have spent tons of time in the last couple days, probably 8hr+ yesterday, researching and reading AEMs user guides and forum posts...
so, thanks for all help that is given. it is appreciated even if i dont say so. :-*
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I can't say I have ever considered aem for a distributor Honda. I say god luck to you sir on that one. Lol. I can't offer any help with that other than knowing what the engine wants. Maybe you can copy/paste Crome timing maps into it?
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All I have to say is if your having problems setting up a basemap in crome, then good luck with aem. I helped tune a 4g63 with aem, and all I can say is we put about 3 hours in sitting in the driveway just trying to get it to run half way decent enough to pull it out of the driveway. Now like u, I'm not a tuner. But crome was 100x easier to set up a basemap and tune that the aem was.
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I can't say I have ever considered aem for a distributor Honda. I say god luck to you sir on that one. Lol. I can't offer any help with that other than knowing what the engine wants. Maybe you can copy/paste Crome timing maps into it?
lol, nope. but i did build my ignition map off of it, and what you guys are suggesting.... brings up another point that i have been told that CROME numbers arent to be trusted/may not be "real" numbers.
All I have to say is if your having problems setting up a basemap in crome, then good luck with aem. I helped tune a 4g63 with aem, and all I can say is we put about 3 hours in sitting in the driveway just trying to get it to run half way decent enough to pull it out of the driveway. Now like u, I'm not a tuner. But crome was 100x easier to set up a basemap and tune that the aem was.
"basemap" isnt an issue. i have that. it runs. the issue i have is tuning with it. infact, it started to run better in some areas, and it runs probably worse overall. its not datalogging all points. NOTHING from close to 0 into boost. and when it cross' over into VTEC, its jibberish (noted above, no one responded).
when i get actually involved with things, i dont really mind these technical details. if i know what they are and i understand them, im sure i can make it work... now little issues like the ECU disconnecting for no apparent reason is pissing me off.
also. this car doesnt HAVE TO RUN ON AEM... but it WILL. im more using it to get familiar with the system cuz the EKK will be running it. i traded that tranny for this box, and i have no issues selling it or running it to the end of time.
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You can't trust them completely, but if you had a good basemap, it should work. I have heard they can vary some from what the numbers in the map are. I haven't tested it myself though. Another thing, so many people don't understand the difference between the "map values" and "actual timing". What's listed in the fuel and spark tables is just a base. Coolant temp and intake temp will multiply that value to compensate for the conditions.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20121223_135955.jpg&hash=30575779c2e0b9cb2575fe942e847f717c219714)
::)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20121224_134435.jpg&hash=d1c4bc6be752fa31d357f6dfaad8d5bc9144ab8a)
:-*
:Jew:
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So you get it to run? Merry fucking Christmas by the way!
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yup. had to do a couple quick fuel adds before it would leave our long private drive lol. i set the o2 feedback to 25+/- and went for a drive. went ok. needs tuning obviously, but ran and drove great. even drove to my aunts for dinner.....ok it was 5 miles. was a little nervous about the cold start when leaving, but started up champ.
big issue is connectivity. at home wasnt as bid of a deal, but on the side of the road i get aggravated quickly.
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It is USB or serial? If its USB, you might need a newer laptop to get a full 5v through the cable.
If its serial, I have no clue. They are usually pretty solid for me.
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its a series 1 AEM.... its serial port.
it came with a serial to usb adapter, and like 10ft of usb cable lol.
issue is that i keep trying to send a tune to it after disconnecting (sometimes im not sure why it did) and it wont do it cuz its running, then it wont connect to it, invalid ecu or error out.
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Your problem might be the adaptor. The only one I have ever been able to use with tuning equipment is the one Moates sells.
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not sure what it is? it was in the box with the AEM. and i installed some random ass driver for it ::)
i do have a serial cable, maybe ill give that a try.
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I bet the converter is you problem. I have never had connection problems with just a serial cable
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Could be any number of things. You learn to hold your mouth right with AEM - and not to use it for distributor Hondas.
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so far it runs fine. better than it was on CROME, imo. the o2 feedback set to 25% probably helps :P
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ok. had a glitch with my map that showed me maxing out my fuel. with some JD help, i got it fixed it looks like. so i went for some more tuning. needed some re dialing in of the map for the rescale.
so everyday i seem to learn something... and today i noticed this...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Fknock_zps29bcdf4c.jpg&hash=38ee11268e72e62cc46c6600560837f613b2dbe9)
i checked my KS log on this pull. as you can see, doesnt look like its all happy.
AFR's arent on that plot cuz it only lets me do 3 at a time. dont remember what they are, but seemed fine. only did a pull to.....well fuck i just did a pull, i dont have a tach lol. from that it looks like 5800rpms. getting irratic shit from the KS from 4700-5800. most the time its below like .5-.6v
here is #3 before you ask...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130113_180623.jpg&hash=db2c85254bd4cda570370652f4b9ddf72e47d4f6)
they all looked fine, the same.
took little over 1 deg out that area, for now.
btw, im sure JD or someone will as, or want to. but its a Honda B-series KS. cuz thats what i found. wire is shielded (honda 02 sensor wire).
thoughts?
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I think the knock sensor is a waste of time. As best as I can tell from that pic it's rich and retarded.
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I think the knock sensor is a waste of time. As best as I can tell from that pic it's rich and retarded.
im seeing giant spikes under load sometimes... i think its knock.
this is my ignition map:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Fspark_zps607c2c36.png&hash=ac38516e0a6a98b516ddadb68f1c932e495f659b)
this is my o2 feedback table:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Ffb_zps7b320efc.png&hash=72bac80a3b744927746fd2a7bd7a12494a411fb1)
:Jew:
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Looks good, a little conservative though
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which one? i seen a knock voltage of like 4.5 on todays drive... like 4500rpms at little over 12psi
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Fuel is fine. My memory is shot, do you have vitara pistons? If so they need a good bit of timing
My last vitara setup that was on a dyno was at 19° at 15psi and made 310whp.
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Fuel is fine. My memory is shot, do you have vitara pistons? If so they need a good bit of timing
lol, fuck no. i have SRP/JE 9:1s. deburred -11.6cc pistons...i think. lol. i think it was around 180psi compression, i should check it again. head is all stock Y8. OEM Honda headgasket.
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Oh, then you might be solid on timing then. Lol
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ill keep watching the KS then.... wanna try to find a D16Y8 one tho...
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so filled up with gas again this morning. ~28.5mpg... :-\
shouldn't I be getting better than this? the EK was getting that mileage weighing a lot more and ghetto mini me motor. and random p06 ecu....
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i usually get 30-35mpg with my D tunes. i have no clue how these people drive though
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Was your last motor built?
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Was your last motor built?
what I'm referencing is my EK. it was oem'ish setup. but even my b20vtec itr, and even B18C5 turbo got 27mpg consistently.
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And who were those tuned by........?
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And who were those tuned by........?
itr was tuned by Dave Lee. EK was running a stock p06.
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got another 32mpg.. and a 30.5mpg....
guess it is what it is... :-\
i guess its worth noting that my drive is like 50miles round trip. i live and work a couple miles off the highway. and i drive threw shit ass Everett both ways and into north Seattle in the morning (traffic usually stops right before work). so i get some traffic on and off. just isnt cruising at 70mph consistent..... so i guess thats pretty good... BUT still the same commute i had in my ITR and EK...
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130302_143531.jpg&hash=76a64b3c08396cfd3694559f5f380ec7233c8e9f)
:-*
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Time to crank the boost and make some real power!
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its a Honda B-series KS. cuz thats what i found. wire is shielded (honda 02 sensor wire).
thoughts?
Why are you paying attention to a Honda KS at WOT?
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little update on this. mostly been just driving it. been tweaking the AEM EMS also. think i got the idle 98% (still loads up sometimes and idle drops, no stalling tho), working on getting Boost Comp up and running. also fucked with the MicroBitSec shit to get little more resolution on my map.
i got WOT @ 10psi/wg spring pretty ironed out. so it will have at least that for dyno meet.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130427_182128.jpg&hash=14b702e993c3da6f93e74b1ed6513dc5ceda43cd)
reppin the RHMT
gathered up parts for PWM boost control via the AEM EMS.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130414_180144-1.jpg&hash=bfc039c08e9ea117489330449ca6c366df47f330)
you ever notice on a OBD1 Honda ECU pinout it is labeled A-B-D?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130414_181803.jpg&hash=97a1fec67b30ac3e43432493920feedc6061d638)
cuz there is a C plug, Honda just doesnt use it... but guess where AEM pin is for boost control? C10. cock.
was a bitch to find, then a bitch to get. got 2 just in case i need another ever.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130416_202809.jpg&hash=6c1eb33d65ca755cf05909cb62ae7452dd94a903)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130416_202815.jpg&hash=2cc6e921f10c69e316e93e243236ddc335cb405a)
buddy had this MAC/GReddy boost valve in his extra shit, so i swiped it.
i was seriously hating on the upper chargepipe on the CRX. i painted it with this wrinkle black paint hoping it would turn out like a Honda valvecover....it didnt. :evil:
i also didnt like the chinaRS bov. so i donated it to the EK, and put the GVR4 bov on the CRX (and a TiAL 50mm on the GVR4).
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130416_212257.jpg&hash=d09fdfd54da07a866db4fe5ea662b281ffaee9f9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130416_212312.jpg&hash=f50f15581b7c1a82d6e6771911a8d781f700eda7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130416_212303.jpg&hash=56c9f2776147a36e730ee2aa892fb6f6d3c1c8cf)
this black textured paint looks a lot better. :noel:
think thats it for now....
:Jew:
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so i worked on this today...kinda.
been trying to clean up the tune for dyno day. needed to refine the "boost comp" map. kinda a simple idea. you tune the car for low load perfectly. then just use table to increase fuel by a % as boost goes up. so it just uses the cells you tuned at say 10psi + 35% fuel for 18psi (example). anyway, seems to work great. still a running a little rich up top (10.8afr).
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130511_130158.jpg&hash=154318c6035a6c9a763d1979ea8ffb919ab25f45)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2FIMG_20130511_123757.jpg&hash=b567d538cca29c8103c9059cf603a71da6d77c40)
couple of tuning screen shots for ya lol.
seems to hit about 20psi, then settle down to 17psi, then falls to 16 at around 7000rpms. clean pull, only smoke was the revlimiter/tires breaking loose in second lol. couldnt tell as it started to move quick when i shifted 3rd. was black/whiteish. plugs looked ok also. but i coudnt swap them as i put the extra set in the EK, and parts store suck ass around where and dont stock shit i need.
D-series + 20psi = slower than the GVR4 @ 20psi.... i mean TURN OUT OUT :-*
:Jew:
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Needs bigger turbo!
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Needs bigger turbo!
negative. needs more responsive turbo. i dont give a shit about max power on this car. i have the Galant to make power that it will put down. and the EK to do stupid shit in.
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Honda used the C plug.
Stop logging the stock KS. It does not work the way you think it does. No 90sa Honda KS was ever monitored at WOT, read your service literature, and the cars with KS that work the eay you think KS do routinely have it shut off due to phantom knock. KS are not your friend, and are not a tuning tool for anything other than poorly designed & fragile Subaru products. GVR4 is a 3800lb Pig Slut, if it is faster than a turbo CRX you are doing it wrong - survey says timing and lack of dyno time to set timing correctly.
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Best thing you can do is ditch the AEM OMG WTF BBQ EMS so you don't have to worry about how it's slewing the timing behind the scenes, as they are not designed for VR pickups and theor handling of such is filed under "rig job". But, you don't want to hear that. :(
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Best thing you can do is ditch the AEM OMG WTF BBQ EMS so you don't have to worry about how it's slewing the timing behind the scenes, as they are not designed for VR pickups and theor handling of such is filed under "rig job". But, you don't want to hear that. :(
OBD-1 Honduh ECU with whatever flavor of tunaring software blows your skirt up would be a better option, probably cheaper too. Sell that AEM faggotry to some ricer, get an ostrich and profit nigga.
Seriously though, my 2L LS/VTEC crx gets 30mpg+ the few times i've only driven it on the highway. JD routinely brags about turbo D-series running around hippie town that get 40+mpg. Me thinks the AEM is fuxoring you.
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Seems like I said the same thing months ago when we were hearing complaints of the car barely running on the aem. Lol
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CRX runs better on AEM than crome. it has been able to do everything I needed it to. I started tuning on this with pretty much no tuning experience. still not pro by any means. still need more knowledge in timing for sure.
I have everything to tune obd1 Honda ecu. except a demon. cromepro, hulog, ostrich, burn1, p61, etc.
GVR4 is 3300lbs with me in it. and it FEELS faster. probably cuz it makes shitloads more torque that a D could dream about.
can't speak to the shit actually working, the gas miles, or VR. gotta believe JD on that...
I can't hear actual detonation/ping/knock/whatever. so the KS is what is available to me?
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I'm gonna say spark plugs tell you everything you need, then JD will post a little later saying the carbon coat on the pistons is better. I kinda use them together.
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I'll try to get some new plugs and pics of them. buddy seems to think I'm running a lot of timing in AEM . but plugs look fine. and car feels like it could use some more.
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I don't know how it works on the distributor cars, but did you get it all synced so the timing light shows the same thing as the map? I have only used aem on COP cars, but you have to set the base in the software so the map matches real life. Loads of fun with a COP car. Lol.
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If you will not go to a dyno, tune by pressure drop. If you think over-advancing timing requirement 3-5 degrees so that you can listen for detonation has anything to do with tuning, then build a set of det cans. They do what KS are reputed to be able to do, but can't unless 10-15 newer technology in a super quiet completely stock new car environment.
97.5% of the time KS are turned off as the suck ass.
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i will be bring it to the meet to put on the dyno. but your saying ill probably need a dyno for an hour+ im assuming? which is fine too, ill just have to make an appointment for another time.
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Yup. Street tuned AFRs tend to go rich when the motor sees some load, and you can sort your timing pretty quick.
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Best thing you can do is ditch the AEM OMG WTF BBQ EMS so you don't have to worry about how it's slewing the timing behind the scenes, as they are not designed for VR pickups and theor handling of such is filed under "rig job". But, you don't want to hear that. :(
OBD-1 Honduh ECU with whatever flavor of tunaring software blows your skirt up would be a better option, probably cheaper too. Sell that AEM faggotry to some ricer, get an ostrich and profit nigga.
Seriously though, my 2L LS/VTEC crx gets 30mpg+ the few times i've only driven it on the highway. JD routinely brags about turbo D-series running around hippie town that get 40+mpg. Me thinks the AEM is fuxoring you.
Try more like 45mpg over a 850 mile trip give or take. All while going 80-100mph with all 4 windows down and sun roof open.
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so RHMT Dyno Day 2013....
got LEED to look over my map. he poked around, seen some things to touch up on and tweak. couple little tricks he seen tuning his bros car. like my idle was pretty damn solid. he had it with little fluctuation at all on the way home i noticed. wasnt something i didnt know how to tune, it was just turning off cuz of the TPS. :evil:
he liked the microbit, and seemed to like my hybrid boost comp (called me lazy tho lol). oh ill take a screen shot when i remember so you can see what i mean by boost comp map.
so for the record, my timing was little too advanced. just a slight pinging in 4650 area. think he took a deg or so out. did some smooth/ironing out of my map. still needs a little more fuel tuning, but 100% safe, just not flat AFRs lol.
so all my pulls really made all about the same power ~245whp. think we picked up TQ tho.
overall im pretty happy with the results. in reality "it is what it is" (see quote in sig). about what i was expecting.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Fdyno2013%2FIMG_20130601_181556.jpg&hash=89ba9b52b4e4cc2b4cf382ea760d5a15a12eb91b)
was hitting ~19psi at peak TQ, then settled to 17psi i think, the rest of the way out.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2Fdyno2013%2FIMG_20130601_182007.jpg&hash=203206f586ba4e536dda261dfe842778d66fc9ad)
:Jew:
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If you will not go to a dyno, tune by pressure drop. If you think over-advancing timing requirement 3-5 degrees so that you can listen for detonation has anything to do with tuning, then build a set of det cans. They do what KS are reputed to be able to do, but can't unless 10-15 newer technology in a super quiet completely stock new car environment.
97.5% of the time KS are turned off as the suck ass.
get a non garbage accell with a sensitivity of 100mV/g + a charge amp and you'll be in baby gravy town.
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Needs more boost!
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Needs more boost!
map sensor is only good for 21psi... turbo is only good for holding 17psi.
its staying the way it is.
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so I fired up the lappy. seems we left it on and it was stone dead lol.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Fdynolog6.jpg&hash=71e1a0aed84e1dd0c72c4e2e3339a4abdcd0429b)
looks like the dyno was loading up a little better than the street. about 18psi stable. with it spiking 20psi first. most the runs look like 17-18psi.
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so "Boost Comp"... this is a hybrid map from what I gather. I just tuned the lowest stable boost level, 10psi in this case.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Ffuel-1.jpg&hash=a675ca509465f3ead80e855ab253bf430a949c75)
so that's my map. then made everything above that the same number.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi276.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk32%2Fefssuck2%2FCRX2%2Fboostcomp-1.jpg&hash=a3fb022cc79d1d75323180b9a6ecbf93af82ac07)
then you just add fuel as pressure goes up. by a percentage.... seems to work well.
I noticed you can also do similar thing for VTEC.
:Jew: